88 FJ1200 DIY manometer

[chaunceyw]

Hey there, im building a DIY manometer to sync my carbs. Will 1/8" ID tubing attach directly to the carbs or do I need some type of fitting/connector to do that?

I dont have a lot of experience with this

[ribbert]

Hey there, im building a DIY manometer to sync my carbs. Will 1/8" ID tubing attach directly to the carbs or do I need some type of fitting/connector to do that?

I dont have a lot of experience with this

All you need is the right size tubing, no special connector. The right size tubing is 5 mm ID, whatever that is in imperial.
The heat from the engine can very quickly make the tubing soft, fold over on itself and kink which will give you false readings. You can put a sheath over the first 3" or so to prevent this.

If your carbs are out of whack, you'll notice a big difference once they're synced.

Noel

[chaunceyw]

Thanks! I thought I read that it was 1/8" or ~3 mm ID. I'm going out tonight to get the supplies so I'll look out for 5 mm ID tubing!

[chaunceyw]

I can't get to the valves until later next week probably - does it make sense to sync the carbs now in the interim until I can adjust my valves or just wait?

[Arnie]

If you think you need the practice, or if you want to confirm you've built the manometer correctly, it does.

It takes so little time and effort (and makes such a difference) to check and sync the carbs that I do it anytime I have the tank off. 

[ribbert]

Thanks! I thought I read that it was 1/8" or ~3 mm ID. I'm going out tonight to get the supplies so I'll look out for 5 mm ID tubing!

3mm is probably fine, it is plastic tubing and will stretch and you want a tight fit anyway.
I used whatever size tubing I already had with just a short length of the correct size for the the fittings on the last bit.
Noel

[mr blackstock]

I bought a cheap version of ebay that worked very well, two ball bearings in a long looped tube.  I think if you make your own try using a small section of smaller diameter tube to take care of "pulsing", I think the smaller diameter tube on each line sort of regulates the pulses of the engines suction going through the carbs...

I am guessing as to why the tubes I have have reduction sections of small diameter tubes...

cheers, Gareth

[movenon]

Here is what I use.  The restrictors are out of a brake bleed kit.  You can click to magnify to image.  I glued the restrictors in place because with age the plastic tubing will stretch a little.  Here in the U.S. harbor freight and NAPA sell these brake bleed kits cheaply.  I just used the restrictors in the kit.  The restrictors are the key to it working perfectly.  

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=2479

This brake  bleed kit is what I bought for the restrictors.
http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man-brake-bleeder-kit-37201.html

George  

[chaunceyw]

Thanks for all the tips!

I got myself 25ish feet of 3 mm tubing. Decided on doing a dual-chamber rather than four chamber since the adjustment screws are in pairs anyways, and it alleviated the need to buy t connectors and other fittings which could cause issues later on.

I haven't built it yet but that's on my list for this week.

Any easy way to get the ATF into the tubing?

[Arnie]

chaunceyw,

The adjustment screws are NOT in pairs, though you do adjust the left pair of cylinders and then the right pair of cylinders and then the left pair to the right pair.  Its much easier to have them all hooked up to a 4-way  manometer and takes much less time.  Less time will also help you not overheat the engine.

Getting ATF into the tiny 3mm tube:  put one end of the tube into the ATF, put the other end of the ATF in your mouth or connect to an other mild vacuum source.  Stop sucking when the ATF is a couple of feet from the suck source end. :-)
Note: if you suck too hard and get some in your mouth, don't swallow.  Spit it out and then go rinse your mouth.
 

Arnie

[chaunceyw]

Sorry, I do know what you meant by left two, right two and then left pair and right pair, I just wasn't cognizant of the other interpretations of what I had said.

I had thought about sucking but 25' of tubing might be a challenge haha. I'll bear the note in mind though

[simi_ed]

T-connections and other problems???  That makes no sense.  You need to draw the ATF from the reservoir, through each tube that is connected to each cylinder.  No "T" fittings involved.  Carb sync is typically done by matching #1 & #2, the #3 & #4, then match 1-2 pair to 3-4 pair. (Like Arnie said!)  There is also some interaction between individual cylinders; this is why it is better best to have all 4 cylinders connected to monitor/tweak as needed until they are all even.

My 2¢

Ed