Rear brakelight switch and frame mount

[keand3]

Hi folks!

Some might remember awhile back ago i struggled with some small electrical issues regarding headlight and rear brake light. Well, the good news is that if fixed the headlight pretty easy, and but the rear did need some work.
PO have had some weird electrical wiring done on the bike, so it was very time consuming figuring it all out, and repair or replace all fault wires and connectors. But its all done now and the wiring should be flawless... 

Over to my question.
Not only bad wires but the brake switch itself had seen better days so I order one from Randy a while back.
Thought I'll replace it this morning before work but that turned out to be a problem.
The mount/bracket this switch is attached to is broken, or allmost at least (I think?) There was no longer a connection between the switch and brakepadel. The switch was barely hanging on to the frame.

I'm not sure how the mount is suppose to look like, but this is how mine look like:


Cheers
Ken

[Harvy]

Ken, replace the switch with a banjo bolt switch and you then have no need to worry about how/where it mounts.
ie. A banjo bolt with a switch integral to it.
If you are unsure what I mean I will post a pic of mine.

Harvy

[Jonesy]

Hey Ken,
that bracket don't look broke to me.
I believe the banjo bolt style switch has got 2 flats on the threaded section to fit through the opening in the bracket and then 2 nuts either side of the bracket sandwich it all together good and tight.
Jonesy

[keand3]

Ken, replace the switch with a banjo bolt switch and you then have no need to worry about how/where it mounts.
ie. A banjo bolt with a switch integral to it.
If you are unsure what I mean I will post a pic of mine.

Harvy

Okey, I googled the banjobolt switch, and there are tons on eBay. So insted of having a OEM switch mounted in the back of the brakepedal, you've got the switch mounted directly on the caliper?

Would appriciate a Picture   And were I can get one

Cheers
Ken

[keand3]

What sice would this Banjo bolt brake switch needed to be by the way?

Ken

[oldktmdude]

Ken, replace the switch with a banjo bolt switch and you then have no need to worry about how/where it mounts.
ie. A banjo bolt with a switch integral to it.
If you are unsure what I mean I will post a pic of mine.

Harvy

Okey, I googled the banjobolt switch, and there are tons on eBay. So insted of having a OEM switch mounted in the back of the brakepedal, you've got the switch mounted directly on the caliper?

Would appriciate a Picture   And were I can get one

Cheers
Ken

Ken, the banjo bolt could either be mounted on the calliper or on the rear brake master cylinder. My preference would be on the m/c as the brake light wires are already there. These pressure switch banjo's are in common use on most dirt bikes and probably on a lot of modern road bikes. The FJ banjo thread size and pitch is M10x1.25. Can't help with pic's but they should be plentiful online. Regards, Pete.

[keand3]

   Ken, the banjo bolt could either be mounted on the calliper or on the rear brake master cylinder. My preference would be on the m/c as the brake light wires are already there. These pressure switch banjo's are in common use on most dirt bikes and probably on a lot of modern road bikes. The FJ banjo thread size and pitch is M10x1.25. Can't help with pic's but they should be plentiful online. Regards, Pete.

Thanks! 

[keand3]

A long time since this thread was used, but I figured I might as well write my question as a new post to this thread instead of making a new on.

Okey guys, for those of you who have installed a pressure switch banjo bolt, how do you keep that wire not getting pinched when installing it??

Today I had to cut of the wire on my second pressure banjo bolt! 

The first bolt I installed I didn't pay enough attention to the wire as I was threading the bolt into the M/C, and the result is as expected... The wires got pinched and no brakelight...
I discovered to day that my second pressure banjo bolt also had gotten their wires pinched, and this caused a short sircut... The last ride I had I suddenly lost all lighting on the instrument panel, and revcounter and fuel gauge was not working. A blown fuse.. Replaced it and all was good. The bike sat for two days until today when I rode it again..

I washed the bike up pretty good today, and used degrease to remove some oil stains, and therefor I took some brakecleaners to clean of any contaminant on the brakediscs... After just 100 meters or so, BOOM, that damn fuse again I also the realized that there was no pressure, or responding rear brake! I stopped and drove back home to have a closer look.

I was swearing out loud cause I had just rebuild that fukken M/C... Luckelly it turned out not to be the M/C itself, but something much simpler but yet pretty scary!!
Not only did I notice the reason for the "no pressure" on the brake padel, but I also discovered the fault causing the fuse to blow...
it was leaking with every pump on the pedal from pressure banjo bolt! And the wire was twisted pretty good! 

The banjo bolt must have unscrewing itself and twisted the brake wire in the process whiles I've been driving my last trip. How this has happend I have no idea! When installing it I torqued that sucker down to spec, bleed the system and everythinh was working smoothly after that! Could vibration unscrew a banjo bolt like that?
I am leaning torwards that I must have been torqued it with wrong setting or something, cause it would have been bad if it were to go completely out..

I did how ever have a OEM brakelight switch which ii thought I would install to night, but now I can't find it amongst my spare parts! Guess Murphy too yet another visit...
I haven't consider using locktight on thous banjo bolts, should I?

Cheers

Ken

[Yamifj1200]

Ken, You should not have to use Loc-tite on the banjo bolt switch to keep in place. I have never heard anyone having a problem with them becoming loose before. Keep the wires of the new switch disconnected until the switch is installed, then route the wires away from anything that could present a problem and connect them to the factory wiring harness. hope this helps..

Eric M

[keand3]

Hi Eric.
No i didn't use locktite, just wondering if anyone did 

Yes, keeping the wire untangle when installing it was no problem either, i just can't for the life of me figure out how ot why the banjo bolt came loose.  It really shouldn't have 

Cheers
Ken

[FJmonkey]

Murphy, entrance, stage right....

[keand3]

Murphy, entrance, stage right....

Yes, that's for sure!

[ribbert]

..... i just can't for the life of me figure out how ot why the banjo bolt came loose. 
Cheers
Ken

Ken,
I can't ever recall a single case of these coming loose. I can only think of two reasons, it was never tight in the first place or the line comes under a lot of tension when the suspension is at the limit of it's travel, dragging it around, which is highly unlikely given there are lugs on the m/c to locate it (assuming you have it between those lugs?) and a standard line has plenty of length.
Do you have the washers either side of the banjo?
An even more remote possibility would be that it was cross threaded, but that would be hard to do.

I can think of nothing else. Do it up again, make sure the banjo is between the lugs (although it shouldn't be necessary to maintain tightness) and don't use loctite.

Noel

[keand3]

Thanks for the tip Noel.
The only reason i can make any sense of is that i have improperly installed it some how but i just don't know what.
I am leaning towards that the banjo bolt haven't been torqued enugh and that that is cause of it.

Will loosen up the bolt and have the line correct and bolt correctly torqued later today. Will bleed the system again as well.