valve adjustment

[bikeguy91]

Can someone please point me towards a valve adjustment how to/ walk through? I dont see it in the manual and have never done it before. Thanks

[bikeguy91]

I have the tool to hold the lifters down, feeler guages, new gaskets. all ready to go, just need a run through of the procedure. 85 Fj100 in case there are any slight differences in what needs to be done. Thanks,
   Greg

[andyb]

If you have a service manual (not the little owner's manual, but the big version the shop mechanic would use), it's in there.  GYSM has it in page/section 2-5, and goes on for 5-7 pages or so.

Honestly it's not at all difficult, the hardest part (imo) is using the fiddly bastard feeler gauges to get accurate and repeatable numbers.  The only real key advice that I'd give is to think your way through every move.  Turning the motor over with the valves held open is going to put the piston in a different position, and it has to go through the top of stroke where the valve is held.... bad juju there.  Crank turns over twice when the cam turns over once, remember.

If you don't have a "proper" service manual GYSM Genuine Yamaha Service Manual), Clymers, or Haynes manual, you may actually want one, if for no reason other than the torque specs on all the crap you remove and replace in the process.

I have a pdf copy of the manual, but it's in two halves and is ~40m in size.  Seeing if I can figure out how to chop a few pages out and quietly email them (i'll PM you), but honestly, if you have any intention of keeping the bike, get a proper copy of the GYSM, and consider it money well spent.  It's almost as well spent as buying the SS screw kit for your carbs, it's THAT useful.

[andyb]

Or, I could be a moron.

Go to this post and download the file (you will need a pdf reader such as adobe annoyocrat or foxit reader).

It's for the XJR, but the heads are pretty well interchangeable and other than the "remove all this shit to get access", the procedure is the same.  It starts at section 3-5, or around page 66.

[bikeguy91]

I have a pdf of what is supposedly the yamaha genuine manual, but it only shows valve removal and inspection. hopefully the xjr manual is more helpful. it doesnt seem too hard, but im not a mechanic so id like to be sure of what im doing. thanks for the help

[Bminder]

If you go to the maintenance section, you'll see the shim kit sticky post at the top. It's worth is to get it from Randy and have all the possible shims you'll need.
When I did it and was double checking I would get different clearances on the same valve sometimes.  Randy said it's because the buckets rotate as the motor runs so you'll have some higher and lower spots on the shims. Just check them a few times to get a feel for the actual reading.  The shim kit also has a chart in it to help you know what shim to exchange.
Also when I did mine, I had a new gasket ready to go but was able to reuse the old one with no leaks.
I did replace the rubber seal things around the valve cover bolts.

Randy at RPM is the best. Buy stuff from him and use his expertise.  He's awesome. I'm naming my next three kids "Randy."

[Alf]

One trick
Adjust the admission valves tight inside the specified range (10-12 instead 10-15) and the opposite on the exhaust valves (18-22 instead 15-20)
You get a infinitesimal better flow and you can feel the difference
This is a competition trick

[Bminder]

One trick
Adjust the admission valves tight inside the specified range (10-12 instead 10-15) and the opposite on the exhaust valves (18-22 instead 15-20)
You get a infinitesimal better flow and you can feel the difference
This is a competition trick

You might want to bounce that idea of Randy at RPM first.  He recommends that you set them on the loose side. He explained to me that the valve clearances will tend to get tighter as the engine ages and wears because the valve seats get smashed down over time.  So if you set the intake valves too tight to begin with, they might go below specs faster and make it not run well.

[movenon]

I think Alf 's idea is fine for anyone trying to extract every last ounce of power out of the engine in a track or race setting.  But for most of us on the street there are safer ways to gain a bit more power.  Personally on air cooled engines be it aircraft, VW or motorcycle's I try to stay on the loose end.
When I hear an overly quiet air cooled engine on the top end,  I am thinking it's time to check the valve clearances.

As a note you can go to https://rapidshare.com and log in "movenon", password "fjowner" and feel free to download the Yamaha Service Manual there. The pictures are not the best but all the information is there that you need.  It is the basic service manual. 
George

[Alf]

One trick
Adjust the admission valves tight inside the specified range (10-12 instead 10-15) and the opposite on the exhaust valves (18-22 instead 15-20)
You get a infinitesimal better flow and you can feel the difference
This is a competition trick

You might want to bounce that idea of Randy at RPM first.  He recommends that you set them on the loose side. He explained to me that the valve clearances will tend to get tighter as the engine ages and wears because the valve seats get smashed down over time.  So if you set the intake valves too tight to begin with, they might go below specs faster and make it not run well.

Well, its is correct most of the times and I agree. But FJ engines used at the sporty side of riding get loose valve clearances (mine and a couple of friends of mine)

[Alf]

I think Alf 's idea is fine for anyone trying to extract every last ounce of power out of the engine in a track or race setting.  But for most of us on the street there are safer ways to gain a bit more power.  Personally on air cooled engines be it aircraft, VW or motorcycle's I try to stay on the loose end.
When I hear an overly quiet air cooled engine on the top end,  I am thinking it's time to check the valve clearances.

Its safe. I check the clearances at 12.000 kms intervals and these don´t move too much

And I agree that I prefer a noisy top end that a quiet one.