Anti dive plate covers

[fuel80guy]

Can anyone give me some insight on how to make anti dive cover plates?

[FJmonkey]

Just remove the brake lines, the top portion of the AD unit, invert the AD unit so the ugly side is down and save the $$$. With the money you saved, get the fork valves and springs from RPM and enjoy really good suspension up front. Then when you saved some more get 89+ forks, FZR1000 front wheel and blue dot brakes and you now have 17" front that runs modern rubber. 

[fuel80guy]

Thanks for the info monkey.

[Fj.itis]

I used stainless plate cut to size and a bit of three bond and bolted it to existing holes.

[FJmonkey]

I used stainless plate cut to size and a bit of three bond and bolted it to existing holes.

The plate needs a passage to allow oil to flow through the upper and lower ports, otherwise you have some hydro-locking going on. This can be bypassed with some drilling of fork internals.

Upgrading to the RPM valves is years of technology better, I could not be happier with my upgrade.

[CatTomb]

^^^^ What he said. RPM forks and springs are the 

[Fj.itis]

I used stainless plate cut to size and a bit of three bond and bolted it to existing holes.

The plate needs a passage to allow oil to flow through the upper and lower ports, otherwise you have some hydro-locking going on. This can be bypassed with some drilling of fork internals.

Upgrading to the RPM valves is years of technology better, I could not be happier with my upgrade.

Should i be worried?  as ive had no issues so far everything working as normal. Done over 1000 km.

[FJmonkey]

The plate needs a passage to allow oil to flow through the upper and lower ports, otherwise you have some hydro-locking going on. This can be bypassed with some drilling of fork internals.

Upgrading to the RPM valves is years of technology better, I could not be happier with my upgrade.

Should i be worried?  as ive had no issues so far everything working as normal. Done over 1000 km.
[/quote]

Did you only seal around the outside of the plate?

[Alf]

I can not see the necessity or the benefits of  blanking the anti-dive. Works wonderfully when it is in good shape and in combination with a good springs and a correct brake master with more flow.

[Fj.itis]

The plate needs a passage to allow oil to flow through the upper and lower ports, otherwise you have some hydro-locking going on. This can be bypassed with some drilling of fork internals.

Upgrading to the RPM valves is years of technology better, I could not be happier with my upgrade.

Should i be worried?  as ive had no issues so far everything working as normal. Done over 1000 km.

Did you only seal around the outside of the plate?


Nup. Sealed it all up.

[FJmonkey]

Did you only seal around the outside of the plate?

Nup. Sealed it all up.

Ok, then I got nothing... Perhaps that is one more bit of proof that the AD system does nothing useful. Marketing hype and added weight. 

[Fj.itis]

Lol... Yeah maybe. I have read elsewhere that they drill inside out when putting flat plates on but i figured with the fj forks being so soft anyway then a little less room for the oil to move cant be a bad thing. Time will tell ill update if anything does happen.

[FeralRdr]

I highly advise listening to Monkey.  Just because they haven't hydrolocked yet, doesn't mean that they won't ever.  It could simply be that you haven't pushed the bike hard enough yet to cause it to hydrolock, and to be clear, I can't say what the threshold would be for hydrolocking.  My opinion, is that it could only be a matter of time.

I truly hope that I'm not horribly proven right.  Hopefully Randy or other such authoritative figures on the forum can chime in.

[FJmonkey]

Lol... Yeah maybe. I have read elsewhere that they drill inside out when putting flat plates on but i figured with the fj forks being so soft anyway then a little less room for the oil to move cant be a bad thing. Time will tell ill update if anything does happen.

Soft depends on oil being allowed to flow. As it flows the springs come into play. If the oil fails to flow it will act just like fully cured concrete. If the seals fail during a hydro-lock event, the oil will be allowed to flow again, past the seals. This then becomes a new potentally catastrophic event. So, if you have a hydro-lock event, it may cause a few loose teeth and a loss of control. Surviving that, a seal failure may also cause of control and or reduced front braking if oil pisses on to your brakes. I suspect that the AD design only partially restricts oil flow and by blocking off the passage might be the same as a working AD unit under full braking pressures. But don't hold me to that, it is only a guess based on your report of fully blocking the AD off and your forks still operating. It is possible you have not exceeded the conditions that would cause a hydro-lock condition. I personally don't like to mess with safety systems that I don't fully understand. And this is one of them.

FYI, you can upgrade to the RPM valve while you still have 84/87 forks. And later, if you upgrade to 89+ forks for the 17" wheel mod the valves can be moved over.

[FJ_Hooligan]

Can you feel the a/d "working."  There are multiple ways to defeat it.  The PO could have drilled the the damper rod or not installed the tapered spindle.  Either of those would bypass the a/d and you could use an undrilled blocking plate.  If you've blocked them off and are experiencing no problems then you're probably okay.  If it was going to hydrolock, it would have done it on the first compression stroke.