Project suspension change

[Gamut]

This is my first post so please excuse me when using the wrong technical terms - English is not my first language.
After reading lots of posts on changing the FJs standard 16" wheels to 17"ers I've decided to take the leap for 2 main reasons : availibility and price on the rear tyre and numerous accounts of how the FJ benefits handling-wise.
Due to limited resources (re. contacts) I purchased a K4 rim with tyre from a local repair shop. The K4 Suzuki wheel presented me with two immediate challenges - axle diameter and brake caliper. With the 180 tyre it fits perfect, but the 28mm axle diameter got me into planning to have some 'inserts' manufactured to fit inside the current bearings with a slight mod to the bearing stay (?). As far as the caliper is concerned I'll either have to bolt some aluminium contraption to the inside swingarm or weld something into place. Was thinking of modifying the caliper holder (?) to accomodate a 'stay' for that, but I'll have to find out which will be the best solution.
The next challenge will be to fit a 1200 Bandit front suspension.

[fj1289]

The inserts can be fine - just ensure the axle remains centered and the bearings remain supported in the middle so there is no side loading (the stock spacer should be fine).

Alternatively you might find bearings with the OD for the new rim and the IS for the old axle.  The width might be different so you might need to adjust the spacer dimensions. 

Good luck!   Nice looking bike!   

[red]

Gamut,

Your English is very good.  Since you have the rear wheel parts now, it may be useless to recommend alternate selections.  Many have adapted 17 inch rear wheels, but not from the source that you used.  You may find easier choices for the rear wheel conversion, but the parts may need to be brought in from some distance.

To change to the front 17 inch wheel, I would recommend finding the "usual" (most often used) Yamaha bike front end, and change out the entire assembly.  That will include the fork tree, fork tubes, springs, 17 inch wheel, front brakes and axle.  Often it will include the brake hose and master cylinder, too.  The usual cost will be much less than a new wheel and caliper alone.  The conversion work then is to remove the old fork tree assembly, then install the new one, and the job is complete.  Search the old posts here, or ask advice from the members here who have done this conversion using the entire front end assembly from other Yamaha bikes.

There are still a good number of tire choices, with a 16 inch rear wheel.  That conversion would not be my first priority.  The 17 inch front wheel conversion is the important one to do, because there are very few 16 inch front tires available now.  Check on the tire sizes you can get, where you are.
Happy hunting.

[Gamut]

The inserts can be fine - just ensure the axle remains centered and the bearings remain supported in the middle so there is no side loading (the stock spacer should be fine).

Alternatively you might find bearings with the OD for the new rim and the IS for the old axle.  The width might be different so you might need to adjust the spacer dimensions. 

Good luck!   Nice looking bike!   

Thanks very much. I did try & locate the specific bearings (OD & ID) to fit the axle and rim, but not much luck there locally. Just got to make sure once that's done to get the correct spacers to line up the chain correctly. Appreciate your comment.

[Gamut]

Gamut,

Your English is very good.  Since you have the rear wheel parts now, it may be useless to recommend alternate selections.  Many have adapted 17 inch rear wheels, but not from the source that you used.  You may find easier choices for the rear wheel conversion, but the parts may need to be brought in from some distance.

Thanks. Initially I managed to secure an FZR front and rear, but the rear turned out to be an 18" rim. The front forks were not in good nick though. We're not a first world country and the current rear is shot. Here we don't have much of a choice in rubber so you take what the dealers can get at ridiculous pricing. That's why I've decided to tackle the back first. I've spent a good deal of time on these forums and it's been a treasure trove of information. Can't tell you how much I've learned. But things don't always work out the way you hope especially when the budget doesn't allow it. Then again, nothing like a good challenge.

[Bozo]

The inserts can be fine - just ensure the axle remains centered and the bearings remain supported in the middle so there is no side loading (the stock spacer should be fine).

Alternatively you might find bearings with the OD for the new rim and the IS for the old axle.  The width might be different so you might need to adjust the spacer dimensions. 

Good luck!   Nice looking bike!   

Thanks very much. I did try & locate the specific bearings (OD & ID) to fit the axle and rim, but not much luck there locally. Just got to make sure once that's done to get the correct spacers to line up the chain correctly. Appreciate your comment.

agree, when fitting some Honda wheels to the Kawasaki, I changed the bearings to suit

[red]

Thanks very much. I did try & locate the specific bearings (OD & ID) to fit the axle and rim, but not much luck there locally. Just got to make sure once that's done to get the correct spacers to line up the chain correctly. Appreciate your comment.

Gamut,

For bearings, it would be a mistake to limit your choices to local sources.  The manufacturers SKF and Timken both have good technical support.  Give them your dimensions (O.D., I.D., and width) and see what they have for you.  Prefer sealed bearings, for wheels.  No bike maker uses anything but off-the-shelf bearings, so the bearings you need are somewhere out there.  You may find German or Japanese bearing makers also, who can help.  Send mails to all of them, make your requests, and get Part Numbers for your needs.
Happy hunting.

[fj1289]

What are the dimensions of the stock bearings in the K4 Suzuki wheel?  Including the sprocket carrier?

We can probably find a standard number for a bearing of compatible dimensions (might be a mm or two narrower or wider, but can probably math the needed OD and ID - and make up the difference in width with the spacers).