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Well it's started.....17" conversion

Started by Sabre093, August 18, 2013, 07:14:45 PM

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ribbert

Finally found it. The addendum to the FJ workshop manual. "Clutch Bleeding Techniques and Procedures"- Abridged version.
(It was hidden behind "How to Tell Your Wife Why One Motorbike Isn't Enough")



Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

FJ_Hooligan

I realize you're frustrated, but I've found the best ingredient in bleeding any system is patience.  With a conventional pump-and-bleed process and even a Mighty-Vac, you're trying to force the air downhill to the cylinder.  You might need to do this if the system is totally empty, as when replacing calipers or lines to get some fluid down into the cylinder.  But, I've found it works much better to let the air rise back up to the master (as others have also pointed out).

The other trick you can try is Reverse Bleeding where you force fluid up from the caliper to the master cylinder.  Some Mighty-Vacs will allow you to do this, but most use a large syringe.

As an example, I replaced my clutch master cylinder over the weekend and never touched the slave cylinder bleeder.  I gently squeezed the lever, but never pulled it back to the bar, just enough engagement to cause the air to bubble back into the master .  In less than 10 minutes I was done.  I'm sure it would have taken more time if the slave had been empty, but the air will naturally want to rise in the system.
DavidR.

Sabre093

No pump would have worked...I ended up having a bad fitting,so I would never have figured it out...I'll have my pony back Monday..
2009 FJR 1300
1992 FJ 1200
1987 FJ 1200 Sold
1986 FJ 1200 Sold
1985 Venture Royale
1976 GoldWing
1986 FZ 750
1986 GPZ 900
1984 Honda Nighthawk S 750
1982 Honda Nighthawk 450