So Randy cleaned, bench synced and jetted my carbs and I got them back on the bike and she won't start. The carbs look amazing and a big thanks to Randy for getting me fixed up. So when I have two clicks on choke it is kind of a slower turning sound then when iI take choke off it speeds up. Everything sounds good band healthy but just won't actually fire. When I first got the bike it would start but ran lean. The I got a set of huge jets that flooded the carbs. Now they should be perfect and it won't fire. I can take a video or something if anyone wants to hear what its doing. But I am just at a loss. Everything is where it needs to be and the plugs look good.
Has she got fuel into the carbs yet, can take awhile just turning her over, switch the petcock to ptime for a minute or so,, also is your battery fully charged
Open one of the bowl drains and make sure you have fuel.
Do you have spark?
A video might be good, because if the battery is weak there is not enough power to crank the engine and supply the ignition system.
If anything it should crank faster when you open the choke or throttle plate.
Pull the choke all of the way and see if it starts.
Randy - RPM
Well after some testing I have fuel and power but no spark. I haven't changed anything from sending the carbs to Randy so I am unsure of what happend and how. Anyone have any ideas?
Quote from: VaughanCustoms on July 24, 2013, 07:23:23 PM
Well after some testing I have fuel and power but no spark.....
When you say you have power...power to where?
The ignition module? The coils? Do you have continuity to the crank sensors?
He probably means his battery seems to be good.
Can we get a voltage number/how you determined this?
No spark--check kill switch, check safety switches, check key switch.
Well I don't have a voltmeter unfortunatly and was going to have a friend stop by and help me out last weekend and bring his voltmeter over. Unfortunatly his car broke down on the way to my house and ended up having to get his car towed home. I am still unsure of all the components on these bike but from what I can tell there is a Ignitor, the Coils and plugs to make spark or are there other things I am leaving out?
Quote from: VaughanCustoms on August 01, 2013, 03:25:50 PM
there is a Ignitor, the Coils and plugs to make spark or are there other things I am leaving out?
Those are the main components for sure. Make sure you have a strong battery or boost it. As you pulled the carbs and the "no spark" is since, be sure to check all the connections to the ignitor. I do not think you would have touched the coil wiring as you pulled them. From all the start attempts previous to getting the carbs done, you might want to start with new plugs if they have been fuel fouled.
Jeff
It has a brand new fully charged battery and I had it on the charger even. Brand new plugs and pulled one of them and nothing it had no spark at all. Is it typical for these wires to go bad or not so much? I know they are part of the coil it looks like.
Work backwards, starting with your plugs...one step at a time
Take out #1 and #2 spark plugs, connect the plugs back up to your plug wires, now with the plugs resting on the head (for a ground) thumb the starter button....see any spark on those plugs?
If yes, then your problem is not electrical...
If only one plug is sparking, then the problem is with 1 of your 2 coils. The left side coil sparks plug #1 and the right side coil sparks plug #2
If no plugs are sparking, then check the power supply to the coils. Run a temporary jumper wire from the positive terminal of your battery to the + terminal on the coils...thumb the starter button...see any spark now?
If you do see the plugs sparking then you have a power supply problem to the coils.
If you do not see the plugs sparking then the next step is to check the 12 volt power supply to the igniter box.
With the key on, do you have 12 volt power to the igniter?
If no power, then you have a power supply problem to the igniter....check the key switch, etc..
If you do have 12 volt power to the igniter...and still no spark, then the next to check are the 2 trigger circuits running from the igniter to the 2 crank sensors under the left side cover...if you have continuity on the wires from the igniter to the crank sensors....next to check is the 2 signal wires running from the igniter to the each coil...do you have continuity on those 2 coil signal wires?
Report back on your progress... Pat
Quote from: VaughanCustoms on August 01, 2013, 03:25:50 PM
Well I don't have a voltmeter
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html) $5.29
It's not high quality, but it will serve. In the back of magazines like Motorcyclist and Popular Mechanics etc. you can get a 20% off (nearly everything in the store) coupon, PLUS a freebee -this Volt Meter is often the freebee -I have like 5 of them.
Pat has given you the best advice so far, trace the problem back... That said, if I were a betting man, I'd bet that the issue is a switch, side-stand, starter (neutral safety?) these can go on older bikes. They're worth servicing, cleaning, inspecting, and re-assembling with a dab of dielectric grease either way. Certainly would not hurt, and will likely help, if not now, at some time in the not-too-distant-future, if you're unlucky it'll be in the rain, on the side of the road...
Dan
Every time Harbor Freight tools has their DMM on sale for $3.99, I just have to buy one (or more). It so cheap that I have one in every room of the house.
Beats having to walk all the way out to the garage in case I need one.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 01, 2013, 04:08:52 PM
Work backwards, starting with your plugs...one step at a time
Take out #1 and #2 spark plugs, connect the plugs back up to your plug wires, now with the plugs resting on the head (for a ground) thumb the starter button....see any spark on those plugs?
Pat's got the right of it I think. I just wanted to point out that if you're doing this, the handy place to rest the plugs for a ground is against the head bolts. You know, right next to the open spark plug hole, which will be shooting a mix of gas and air just past them. I understand that gas is flammable, even if it doesn't always seem to be! Just be a little careful, it's possible to shoot yourself in the face with a bunch of fire.....
No troubleshooting like this without a nearby extinguisher and probably safety glasses on, long hair is okay because screw you people that still have your hair, etc.
Quote from: andyb on August 04, 2013, 12:05:02 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 01, 2013, 04:08:52 PM
Work backwards, starting with your plugs...one step at a time
Take out #1 and #2 spark plugs, connect the plugs back up to your plug wires, now with the plugs resting on the head (for a ground) thumb the starter button....see any spark on those plugs?
Pat's got the right of it I think. I just wanted to point out that if you're doing this, the handy place to rest the plugs for a ground is against the head bolts. You know, right next to the open spark plug hole, which will be shooting a mix of gas and air just past them. I understand that gas is flammable, even if it doesn't always seem to be! Just be a little careful, it's possible to shoot yourself in the face with a bunch of fire.....
No troubleshooting like this without a nearby extinguisher and probably safety glasses on, long hair is okay because screw you people that still have your hair, etc.
:mocking:
Quote from: fintip on August 04, 2013, 01:47:43 PM
Quote from: andyb on August 04, 2013, 12:05:02 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 01, 2013, 04:08:52 PM
Work backwards, starting with your plugs...one step at a time
Take out #1 and #2 spark plugs, connect the plugs back up to your plug wires, now with the plugs resting on the head (for a ground) thumb the starter button....see any spark on those plugs?
Pat's got the right of it I think. I just wanted to point out that if you're doing this, the handy place to rest the plugs for a ground is against the head bolts. You know, right next to the open spark plug hole, which will be shooting a mix of gas and air just past them. I understand that gas is flammable, even if it doesn't always seem to be! Just be a little careful, it's possible to shoot yourself in the face with a bunch of fire.....
No troubleshooting like this without a nearby extinguisher and probably safety glasses on, long hair is okay because screw you people that still have your hair, etc.
:mocking:
OK, I'll bite. How do you get the fuel into the cylinder with the spark plug removed?
Quote from: ribbert on August 04, 2013, 08:22:54 PM
OK, I'll bite. How do you get the fuel into the cylinder with the spark plug removed?
That is a good question. Maybe he was talking about that fuel injected -FJ? :)
Quote from: Dan Filetti on August 04, 2013, 09:51:31 PM
Quote from: ribbert on August 04, 2013, 08:22:54 PM
OK, I'll bite. How do you get the fuel into the cylinder with the spark plug removed?
That is a good question. Maybe he was talking about that fuel injected -FJ? :)
With a funnel........ hahahahahha
Normally you get the mixture into the cylinder before removing the plug, so when you pull the plug it'll be noticably wet and you can rule out the fueling, probably.
At least that's how I do it. The first few cranks are usually more than a little smelly, doubly so if you've have the ether out. Once the air has cleared so to speak, more fuel won't be going in in any significant amount unless something's pretty wildly wrong.... but if things weren't really wrong, you wouldn't be checking why it wasn't running.
Just sayin to be careful. It's up there with covering the empty plug holes so you don't drop the @#$%@#$% screws from the throttle connector down the cylinder.