Got it to start up, had the d@mnist time trying to get it to idle.
Found two problems. 1) Throttle grip was grabbing the bar end. 2) If your trying to fix a problem, make sure you don't create a problem. I adjusted the throttle cable so there wasn't very much slack, once the bike warmed up, it was pulling the throttle open.
Carbs are synced, the engine and carbs are cleaner. BTW, I really, really hate that air box. Ordering some Uni pods from Randy this week.
Going to start doing the standard maintenance on the rest of the bike. Then I just have to put the plastics back on, and then give her some road miles. New year tire in the future, and ironing out an electrical headlight gremlin that popped up when I redid the forks.
Ordered the Uni dual pods, crankcase breather and SS carb fasteners from Randy on Thursday. I think he's has a teleporter its just not physically possible for them to have shown up two days later at that shipping cost. Thanks Randy!
Pods and breather are going on now, will save the fasteners for when I have the rebuild kits and proper tools. I loved the feeling of knowing that was the last time I was pulling the air box. Anyone want a K&N filter? Just pay the shipping and its yours.
Good news, you will love the Uni filters. Next time the carbs are off and apart you will love the screw kit and replacing the o rings.
Kurt
Quote from: Manic on June 02, 2013, 12:24:56 PM
Anyone want a K&N filter? Just pay the shipping and its yours.
PM Sent.
I'm running a stock air filter, so I might as well take you up on your offer, if it's still available. Thanks in advance.
Steve
i know what you mean about the air box, with these uni filters do you have to re jet?
Ken, you shouldn't have to touch the jets if just changing to UNI pods. If you change the exhaust and allow her to breath a little better with less back pressure, then a jet change may be required.
Harvy
thanks harvy, bloody thing started leaking while running, going to pull the carbs today and check float valve etc, was a pain to refit the airbox and the breather pipe, i guess these things are bound to happen on a bike that most likely sat unused for lengthy periods,
ken
Quote from: ken65 on June 05, 2013, 01:36:42 PM
i know what you mean about the air box, with these uni filters do you have to re jet?
Hey Ken, I found this wiki article a few days ago. Hope it helps.
http://fjowners.wikidot.com/pods (http://fjowners.wikidot.com/pods)
@Steve - PM sent
@Yama - Looking like I'm going to have to tear into it sooner rather than later. Still having a high idle issue once the bike warms up. Time to go back to the beginning and start the diagnosis again.
gday manic, thanks for the link, when i put my airbox back one the 1st time , it took ages to get the air filters boots and the breather tube back on, but had to do it again yesterday it only took 5 minutes, plug went in 1st go and the bottom of the boots didnt catch hardly, so for now at least i will not worry about the uni pods but am concerned about the air filter, must be an after market one as it seems to be not wide enough for the holding plugs to get a good grip on it,
ken
Quote from: Steve_in_Florida on June 05, 2013, 09:29:05 AM
PM Sent.
I'm running a stock air filter, so I might as well take you up on your offer, if it's still available. Thanks in advance.
Steve
Enjoy Steve!
Manic,
Thank you for the K&N filter. Received it earlier this week, and installed it the next morning.
My bike's running really well now.
Steve
Carbs are back off, finances tightened up so I couldn't ship them off to Randy to go over. One of the A/F mixture screws is stuck and can't be adjusted. On the same carb, the diaphragm had a rip near the outer edge. Time to try and find a used set on ebay and see if I can piece meal something together.
Anyone ever tried these? http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html (http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html)
Quote from: Manic on July 04, 2013, 12:07:27 PM
Anyone ever tried these? http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html (http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html)
Yes, not recommended, they do not allow full travel of the slides, possible lean issues. Might be OK if you keep the RPMs low but that is not much fun.
I know Randy posted on this but did not find the link.
Quote from: FJmonkey on July 04, 2013, 12:24:34 PM
I know Randy posted on this but did not find the link.
I just posted this yesterday as well from the other diaphragm question...
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 03, 2013, 02:29:36 PM
The rubber diaphragms are not a Yamaha replacement item. There are some aftermarket rubber diaphragms you can purchase, but they do not allow for the full & complete stroke of the slide. This effects the mixture of the mid-range needle setting.
Re: Replacement BS36 carb diaphragms (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=5340.msg88442#msg88442)
I would not recommend them as the restricted stoke is going to cause your bike to run lean.
Randy - RPM
Thanks, figured there was something wrong. Just wanted to double check. Time to start saving up for replacements. 3 diaphragms were ripped.
Glad someone found the site useful! That page has been overhauled a bit, and this is the first I've heard of those diaphragms not being recommended, I'll add a comment to the 'carbs' page of the wiki.
At that cost, you should consider just buying a brand new set of carbs from Randy and selling yours off for parts on ebay.
A few have used plasti dip on diaphrams with holes, or liquid electrical tape works, at least keep you going till you can afford new parts
Yeah, just did some research and updated the fjowners.wikidot.com/carbs page to include the sources on what was just said, see under 'guide for restoring', or just scroll to the bibliography at the bottom and click the links.