I just brought home an '89 FJ1200 & I'm looking for advice on fixing my hydraulic clutch operating system, plus all the trick things that most folks do to their bikes. My bike has just turned 24K on the odometer & I'm the third owner. It was owned by a 75 year old gentleman who used it for touring for a few years. Then he drained the fuel out of it & put it up in dry storage in 2008.
I'm guessing that the seals in the clutch actuator dried out during storage & it started to leak. The P/O removed the hydraulic fluid so it would quit leaking & left it like that. What am I looking at in getting this clutch to operate again? I noticed that a couple of FJ's that I looked at had a braided stainless clutch line on them & the finish on the side case had been eaten up by the hydraulic fluid. I take it that this hydraulic system is problematic. What all is going on here?
Thank you
~JM~
Welcome to the group JM.
Yes the clutch slave cylinder is prone to leaking. It is the main cause for missing chin cowlings. Brake fluid eats the ABS. There are a couple of options that I recommend. Purchase a rebuild kit for the salve cylinder, or purchase a complete new slave cylinder. What you mention in your introduction, I would purchase a new slave cylinder. Here is a link to RPM and a new slave cylinder.
New slave cylinder http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3Aslavecyl (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3Aslavecyl)
Slave cylinder rebuild kit http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3AS%2FK&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3AS%2FK&cat=39)
Randy at RPM is a fellow member on this forum and beats most dealers on prices.
I have this exact clutch line on my 89" http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-94-YAMAHA-FJ-1200-Galfer-Clutch-Line-Braided-Stainless-Steel-/200872819538?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec4f3fb52&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-94-YAMAHA-FJ-1200-Galfer-Clutch-Line-Braided-Stainless-Steel-/200872819538?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec4f3fb52&vxp=mtr)
Fred
Quote from: ~JM~ on May 03, 2013, 02:36:51 PM
I just brought home an '89 FJ1200 & I'm looking for advice on fixing my hydraulic clutch operating system, plus all the trick things that most folks do to their bikes. My bike has just turned 24K on the odometer & I'm the third owner. It was owned by a 75 year old gentleman who used it for touring for a few years. Then he drained the fuel out of it & put it up in dry storage in 2008.
I'm guessing that the seals in the clutch actuator dried out during storage & it started to leak. The P/O removed the hydraulic fluid so it would quit leaking & left it like that. What am I looking at in getting this clutch to operate again? I noticed that a couple of FJ's that I looked at had a braided stainless clutch line on them & the finish on the side case had been eaten up by the hydraulic fluid. I take it that this hydraulic system is problematic. What all is going on here?
Thank you
~JM~
That's pretty much it.
Failed clutch slave cylinder seals are probably the most common problem on the FJ1100/1200 series (or maybe 2nd gear on those early prototype models). :bomb:
Mine has a new Galfer line and DOT5 fluid (along with a Barnett conversion kit and YZF750 m/c.
It didn't keep the slave seal from failing over the winter, though. :nea:
We should take poll, to see how many of us had to,rebuild our slave cylinders this spring?
Quote from: Thmsdoyle on May 03, 2013, 04:46:40 PM
We should take poll, to see how many of us had to,rebuild our slave cylinders this spring?
I did a rebuild kit this spring while I was changing out the front sprocket. It's no more trouble than an oil change and about the same cost. It had been 3 years since the last one had failed.
Welcome to the group ~JM~. An '89 with 24k --- Perfect!
I rebuilt mine this spring, didn't work :dash2: :dash2:. Ordered a new one from Randy. :yahoo: :yahoo: works fine.
Welcome JM, no need to ask how many have changed their clutch slave seals, the answer is 100%. Look up "Kookaloo" an FJ specific word.... Enjoy the digital FJ campfire...
Have a kit on the way,ambulance has leaked since I've had her, also never came with a bellypan :shok:
:hi: Welcome aboard JM enjoy the ride :good2:
Here's a pic that the P/O took back in 2000 prior to being tipped over. The luggage has been removed for one of his other bikes. The bike still looks this nice from about 10-15 foot or so.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p124/Northwet/FJ1200A_zps89583ce7.jpg)
I can't wait to ride it. I have admired the FJ's since I saw a white & blue FJ1100 with an N2O bottle on it, back in the late 80's. I've ridden many bikes in my life, but they were smaller, quick bikes like the RD350/400's. Never spent much time on anything larger or more powerful than a 500 to 750 Honda.
I located the information on RPM & attempted to contact them today. Unfortunately they were either closed, or too busy to answer the phone.
So I take it that there is no permanent fix for this hydraulic system?
Thanks
~JM~
What part of the World are you from?
Fred
Quote from: ~JM~ on May 03, 2013, 08:25:03 PM
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p124/Northwet/FJ1200A_zps89583ce7.jpg)
Nice, very nice... Not quite Red power Ranger Nice but very nice... Marsh, are you getting this??? He is showing your colors....
Quote from: aviationfred on May 03, 2013, 08:27:39 PMWhat part of the World are you from?
Fred
I'm in the Pacific Northwest near Portland, Or.
~JM~
Quote from: ~JM~ on May 03, 2013, 08:38:45 PM
Quote from: aviationfred on May 03, 2013, 08:27:39 PMWhat part of the World are you from?
Fred
I'm in the Pacific Northwest near Portland, Or.
~JM~
Then you need to join us for the WCR http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8130.msg74785#msg74785, (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8130.msg74785#msg74785,) you must attend, if possible, a few cabins are still open, while supplies last...
Quote from: Thmsdoyle on May 03, 2013, 04:46:40 PM
We should take poll, to see how many of us had to,rebuild our slave cylinders this spring?
Rebuilt 2 years ago, replaced with new cylinder this winter.................. After 20 plus years it was time I guess.
And welcome !!!!!!!!!!!!! :hi: :hi:
George
Quote from: Thmsdoyle on May 03, 2013, 04:46:40 PM
We should take poll, to see how many of us had to rebuild our slave cylinders this spring?
:hi: Hi and welcome ... :good2:
Yep, like many others, I did mine this off season. Its a quick 'fix' and the rebuild kits are not expensive.
John.
I rebuilt mine two weeks ago. Cylinder bore ia worn so I'll replace on the next go round.
Quote from: ~JM~ on May 03, 2013, 08:25:03 PM
I located the information on RPM & attempted to contact them today. Unfortunately they were either closed, or too busy to answer the phone.
Randy @ RPM just head knee surgery and is a bit incapacitated. He may not be as responsive as normal. Send them a note, or send Randy a PM. They/ he will get back to you I have no doubt.
Dan
I rebuilt the hydraulic cylinder on my Kubota tractor today -does that count?
(popcorn)
Dan
Maybe it was yamaha design Dan :scratch_one-s_head:
Quote from: ~JM~ on May 03, 2013, 08:25:03 PM
I located the information on RPM & attempted to contact them today. Unfortunately they were either closed, or too busy to answer the phone.
~JM~
JM,
As already mentioned by Dan, I had knee surgery last Monday:
Bump in the road... (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8950.0)
I am on doctor ordered bed rest for a couple of weeks. I am sorry I was not at the shop to answer your call to address your question/concerns. I am available via email; randy@rpmracingca.com or PM from the website here.
My website, www.RPMracingCa.com (http://www.rpmracingca.com) is open 24/7/365 and if you can click on the item it is in stock and will be ship to you. My two sons are going to the shop every evening every night after the day jobs and packaging orders which my wife drops off the next morning at the shipper(s).
Please let me know what I can do for you via this topic, PM or email.
Randy - RPM
randy@rpmracingca.com
Has anyone on this forum ever considered replacing the slave cylinder with a transplant from another bike? Is it a slave cylinder design problem, or is the problem elsewhere in the system?
I have a leaking slave, and was planning on rebuilding and flushing and converting to DOT5, but having to rebuild again in 3 years? That doesn't sound right... I'm just as curious as the PO about finding a permanent solution.
Evidently it's not just a 20-year problem, either, since many (most? half?) of us buy our bikes without a chin fairing...
Quote from: fintip on May 04, 2013, 12:59:19 PM
, but having to rebuild again in 3 years?
I mentioned changing the seals on the piston while I had the slave off to change the front sprocket--It had been serviced 3 years before, and when it had failed on me before, while it didn't leave me totally stranded, it did frigg up my day.
It wasn't leaking this time. I guess I didn't make that clear in my post. I just decided to change the seals while I was there. The fluid looked like weak coffee and there was a bit of gunk in- and build up on - the slave cylinder.
$15. I look at it as minor maintenance . I don't know much about DOT 5. Maybe using DOT 5 would prevent this?
IMO, the FJ slave is just a crappily designed part in an area that takes a lot of abuse with heat, dirt and water exposure. Having owned an FJ for a long time, it seems to need attention at least every other year.
I put a Galfer line and DOT5 on year before last hoping it might extend time between rebuilds, but it's failed again already. It was an old one that I had laying around, so it maybe at the end of its life anyway. But, there's no more paint missing because of it... ;)
Quote from: fintip on May 04, 2013, 12:59:19 PM
Has anyone on this forum ever considered replacing the slave cylinder with a transplant from another bike? Is it a slave cylinder design problem, or is the problem elsewhere in the system?
I have a leaking slave, and was planning on rebuilding and flushing and converting to DOT5, but having to rebuild again in 3 years? That doesn't sound right... I'm just as curious as the PO about finding a permanent solution.
Evidently it's not just a 20-year problem, either, since many (most? half?) of us buy our bikes without a chin fairing...
Unlike disc brake calipers where the seals don't slide in the cylinder and the pistons barely move, clutch slaves slide in and out and are used much more than brakes.
The FJ slave is not lined and therefore prone to wear.
The clutch also seems more prone to contamination than the brakes and this adds corrosion to the wear and the thinned out fluid more likely to leak. Dot 5 would most likely prevent this part.
Given the consequences of a leak onto the fairing and reliability, I would consider as a rule of thumb, one rebuild then throw it over you shoulder the next time and replace it. They are not expensive and it is probably a once every 100,000km replacement.
There are many variable of course, seasonal use, storage, riding style and so on.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on May 05, 2013, 04:39:44 AM
Quote from: fintip on May 04, 2013, 12:59:19 PM
Has anyone on this forum ever considered replacing the slave cylinder with a transplant from another bike? Is it a slave cylinder design problem, or is the problem elsewhere in the system?
I have a leaking slave, and was planning on rebuilding and flushing and converting to DOT5, but having to rebuild again in 3 years? That doesn't sound right... I'm just as curious as the PO about finding a permanent solution.
Evidently it's not just a 20-year problem, either, since many (most? half?) of us buy our bikes without a chin fairing...
Unlike disc brake calipers where the seals don't slide in the cylinder and the pistons barely move, clutch slaves slide in and out and are used much more than brakes.
The FJ slave is not lined and therefore prone to wear.
The clutch also seems more prone to contamination than the brakes and this adds corrosion to the wear and the thinned out fluid more likely to leak. Dot 5 would most likely prevent this part.
Given the consequences of a leak onto the fairing and reliability, I would consider as a rule of thumb, one rebuild then throw it over you shoulder the next time and replace it. They are not expensive and it is probably a once every 100,000km replacement.
There are many variable of course, seasonal use, storage, riding style and so on.
Noel
Ignore the reference to Dot 5 fluid above, it's wrong.
Noel
Quote from: racerrad8 on May 04, 2013, 12:34:28 PM
Quote from: ~JM~ on May 03, 2013, 08:25:03 PM
I located the information on RPM & attempted to contact them today. Unfortunately they were either closed, or too busy to answer the phone.
~JM~
JM,
As already mentioned by Dan, I had knee surgery last Monday: Bump in the road... (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8950.0)
I am on doctor ordered bed rest for a couple of weeks. I am sorry I was not at the shop to answer your call to address your question/concerns. I am available via email; randy@rpmracingca.com or PM from the website here.
My website, www.RPMracingCa.com (http://www.rpmracingca.com) is open 24/7/365 and if you can click on the item it is in stock and will be ship to you. My two sons are going to the shop every evening every night after the day jobs and packaging orders which my wife drops off the next morning at the shipper(s).
Please let me know what I can do for you via this topic, PM or email.
Randy - RPM
randy@rpmracingca.com
Sorry to hear about the bum knee. I tore the ACL in my left knee several years ago & had that repaired. I can feel your pain. I'm just wanting to talk to someone who knows what all I need to do on this very new to me bike is all.
I will place an order online.
Thank you & I hope you feel better soon. Enjoy those morphine/vicodin dreams.
~JM~
Well... I ordered a new slave cylinder unit: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3Aslavecyl&cat=26 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3Aslavecyl&cat=26)
A rebuild kit: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3AS%2FK (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3AS%2FK)
And one of these mini bleeders: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3A8mmMiniBleeder&cat=39 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3A8mmMiniBleeder&cat=39)
I also ordered one of those Galfer braided SS clutch lines that was listed on eBay. I plan to replace the line & install the new slave, then rebuild the old slave as a spare. I think I have everything here. If I'm forgetting something, please let me know.
What is the best fluid to use for the hydraulic clutch?
Is there an after-market performance exhaust system available for the '89 FJ? If so, does anyone have any information about it?
Thank you
~JM~
Quote from: ~JM~ on May 07, 2013, 02:52:13 PM
I plan to replace the line & install the new slave, then rebuild the old slave as a spare.
~JM~
Belt
AND suspenders, I like that...
Dan
Quote from: ~JM~ on May 07, 2013, 02:52:13 PM
Is there an after-market performance exhaust system available for the '89 FJ? If so, does anyone have any information about it?
Thank you
~JM~
RPM has an exhaust system that is in the works. From what I have seen it may be available next month.
There are some NOS Vance & Hines systems on eBay for 86'/87's, They will work. You would have to fab a small bracket for the muffler attachment.
If money is no issue, you can get a complete Akropovic exhaust from eBay Germany for about $1500.00. (I understand the RPM exhaust is very similar to this, the exhaust, not the price.)
Fred
Quote from: ~JM~ on May 07, 2013, 11:10:35 AM
Sorry to hear about the bum knee. I tore the ACL in my left knee several years ago & had that repaired. I can feel your pain. I'm just wanting to talk to someone who knows what all I need to do on this very new to me bike is all.
I will place an order online.
Thank you & I hope you feel better soon. Enjoy those morphine/vicodin dreams.
~JM~
Thank you for the order, my son will have it headed your way today. I hope to start being able to be around the shop fairly regularly next week. If you still have anything you need to talk about shoot me an email and I will try and get with you when I am there.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: ~JM~ on May 07, 2013, 02:52:13 PM
What is the best fluid to use for the hydraulic clutch?
Thank you
~JM~
Just use normal DOT4 fluid. Some people use DOT5 silicone fluid because it won't damage paint and plastic but it has a downside.
People mistake the fact that the fluid doesn't absorb water for water not being drawn into the system. It is but doesn't mix with the fluid.
When mixed, the water remains separate from the fluid and because the fluid is lighter it floats to the top. This means the water will accumulate at the bottom, the slave cylinder.
For this reason it requires more frequent changing. It also requires a very thorough flushing of the system to introduce it, it is not compatible with other fluids.
DOT5 fluid was not developed or intended to be the next generation fluid, it was made for special applications and has never been adopted for widespread or manufacturer use.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on May 07, 2013, 07:21:05 PM
DOT5 fluid was not developed or intended to be the next generation fluid, it was made for special applications and has never been adopted for widespread or manufacturer use.
Noel
H-D used it for several years as OEM.
Quote from: not a lib on May 07, 2013, 07:40:56 PM
Quote from: ribbert on May 07, 2013, 07:21:05 PM
DOT5 fluid was not developed or intended to be the next generation fluid, it was made for special applications and has never been adopted for widespread or manufacturer use.
Noel
H-D used it for several years as OEM.
Did they stop using it?
Quote from: FJmonkey on May 07, 2013, 07:45:19 PM
Quote from: not a lib on May 07, 2013, 07:40:56 PM
Quote from: ribbert on May 07, 2013, 07:21:05 PM
DOT5 fluid was not developed or intended to be the next generation fluid, it was made for special applications and has never been adopted for widespread or manufacturer use.
Noel
H-D used it for several years as OEM.
Did they stop using it?
I believe they did, 2-3 years ago.
Quote from: not a lib on May 07, 2013, 08:06:43 PM
I believe they did, 2-3 years ago.
Any reason given for the change?
Quote from: FJmonkey on May 07, 2013, 08:24:44 PM
Quote from: not a lib on May 07, 2013, 08:06:43 PM
I believe they did, 2-3 years ago.
Any reason given for the change?
I don't know about Harley but I believe manufacturers don't use it because it offers no advantages and they foresee liability issues with the fluid not being changed at the specified intervals.
Really, who changes their brake fluid, especially in the car, at regular intervals, if ever?
For special applications you can now get DOT5.1 which is glycol based DOT5.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on May 07, 2013, 08:34:34 PM
I don't know about Harley but I believe manufacturers don't use it because it offers no advantages and they foresee liability issues with the fluid not being changed at the specified intervals.
Really, who changes their brake fluid, especially in the car, at regular intervals, if ever?
Noel
Funny, I change my fluid every month, don't we all????
Quote from: FJmonkey on May 07, 2013, 08:24:44 PM
Quote from: not a lib on May 07, 2013, 08:06:43 PM
I believe they did, 2-3 years ago.
Any reason given for the change?
They didn't consult with me before they did it... :unknown: They probably talked to Noel or something.
Actually, I just noticed it on someone's late model H-D at a gathering, and he said they'd done it recently.
Quote from: not a lib on May 07, 2013, 08:38:05 PM
They didn't consult with me before they did it... :unknown: They probably talked to Noel or something.
Actually, I just noticed it on someone's late model H-D at a gathering, and he said they'd done it recently.
Bugger, they should have consulted with you... The mystery will then continue on...
Noel:
QuoteTwo. DOT5 boils at 500 degrees F. Fresh, uncorrupted DOT3 boils at 400 degrees F. Water boils at 212 Degrees F. DOT3 absorbs water leading to: A. Lower boiling point and B. Corrosion in the system. This rust is what scores the cylinders and wears the rubber cups leading to failure. Lower boiling point leads to easier brake fade and failure due to the heat of heavy braking. DOT5 prevents all that.
Three. One drawback to DOT5: IF water gets into the system - usually by submerging the vehicle such as the military does driving through rivers - the water pools at the low points in the system. This is corrected by bleeding the system again. If you don't drive in rivers, it won't happen. If you do, bleed it soon after. To get water in the system, the water level would have to be over the master cylinder cover.
Source: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=DOT5+The+better+brake+fluid (http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=DOT5+The+better+brake+fluid)
Advantages: lubricates all but metal-to-metal, will not rust your system, does not need to be changed like water absorbing brake fluids.
The article that convinced me that I want to switch to DOT5 at some point: http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/ttt/silicone.htm (http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/ttt/silicone.htm)
Quote from: fintip on May 07, 2013, 09:57:08 PM
Noel:
QuoteTwo. DOT5 boils at 500 degrees F. Fresh, uncorrupted DOT3 boils at 400 degrees F. Water boils at 212 Degrees F. DOT3 absorbs water leading to: A. Lower boiling point and B. Corrosion in the system. This rust is what scores the cylinders and wears the rubber cups leading to failure. Lower boiling point leads to easier brake fade and failure due to the heat of heavy braking. DOT5 prevents all that.
Three. One drawback to DOT5: IF water gets into the system - usually by submerging the vehicle such as the military does driving through rivers - the water pools at the low points in the system. This is corrected by bleeding the system again. If you don't drive in rivers, it won't happen. If you do, bleed it soon after. To get water in the system, the water level would have to be over the master cylinder cover.
Source: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=DOT5+The+better+brake+fluid (http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=DOT5+The+better+brake+fluid)
Advantages: lubricates all but metal-to-metal, will not rust your system, does not need to be changed like water absorbing brake fluids.
The article that convinced me that I want to switch to DOT5 at some point: http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/ttt/silicone.htm (http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/ttt/silicone.htm)
Kyle, if I was doing first principles research I would not be getting my information from a forum, especially one called "aircoolednut"
I read both those posts and neither author appears to have any credentials that entitle them to a definitive view on the subject. Their point is not to offer an unbiased finding but in part to selectively take other people's information that favours their choice and their own limited findings. Some of the lines they use have been plucked from other articles.
Nobody vets information put on the net and just finding a couple of guys that muck around with old cars that share your view is not confirmation of the facts.
Page presentation, authoritative tone and big words have nothing to do with the merit, or even truth, of it's content.
There are too many facts involved to have a tit for tat discussion on it and probably no one's interested. Those that have decided to use it are not going to change their mind and those that don't couldn't care less.
I am satisfied that I have read sufficiently from credible sources on the subject to form the view I have.
BTW, on the two points you mention, bikes generally don't have a problem with brake fade because of their generous brakes and light weight. If you did, there is DOT5.1
Water enters the system from the atmosphere, not submersion. Both systems absorb water. DOT4 mixes with the water and will have a lower boiling point than DOT5 with a pocket of water nearest the heat source, as the water does not mix with it and falls to the bottom. In cold climates this water can also freeze creating a plug in the system.
Quote from: ribbert on May 08, 2013, 10:27:08 AM
Page presentation, authoritative tone and big words have nothing to do with the merit, or even truth, of it's content.
True that.
Quote from: ribbert on May 08, 2013, 10:27:08 AM
There are too many facts involved to have a tit for tat discussion on it and probably no one's interested. Those that have decided to use it are not going to change their mind and those that don't couldn't care less.
Also true.
Quote from: ribbert on May 08, 2013, 10:27:08 AM
I am satisfied that I have read sufficiently from credible sources on the subject to form the view I have.
There are also 'credible sources' who can 'prove' that a bumblebee can't fly...
Are there any other hydraulic fluids other than brake fluid that can be used?
Some of the "Red" hydraulic fluids maybe?
Anything that won't eat up the paint & plastic and will last longer? Maybe some Marvel Mystery Oil? LOL.
Thank you
~JM~
Well, I respect your opinion greatly Noel. But personal experience matters as much to me as theories, if not more. While I am aware that water enters the lines via the atmosphere, my impressions has been that DOT4 fluid are so hydrophilic that they draw the water in, attract it. Since DOT5 doesn't have this relationship with water, I can understand water not being drawn into the system.
But, if you did care to argue it, I'm not dogmatic. I put those points to you as much to show the other side as to hear your counter, if any.
But as you wish! As I said, your opinion is always welcome.
Quote from: fintip on May 09, 2013, 09:21:23 AM
Well, I respect your opinion greatly Noel. But personal experience matters as much to me as theories, if not more. While I am aware that water enters the lines via the atmosphere, my impressions has been that DOT4 fluid are so hydrophilic that they draw the water in, attract it. Since DOT5 doesn't have this relationship with water, I can understand water not being drawn into the system.
But, if you did care to argue it, I'm not dogmatic. I put those points to you as much to show the other side as to hear your counter, if any.
But as you wish! As I said, your opinion is always welcome.
Using some one else's personal experience as a guide is only of value if they are qualified to understand and interpret their observations. The absence of an adverse reaction does not necessarily make something the right choice. My view is not formed from theories but research by people who are qualified and whose job it is to make these findings and in many cases, produce the original technical notes, not anecdotal evidence.
To look at it differently, why would you bother. They both SHOULD be changed regularly, It's a PIA to introduce it and 3 to 4 times the cost of DOT4 and you are addressing a problem that's not really there.
Automotive manufacturers have enormous R&D facilities and the trend is increasingly towards "sealed for life" cars (and bikes) There is virtually nothing to service on them now and with longer intervals between services.
It is not a bad source of information to keep an eye new vehicle trends and their choices are not always about cost. You could reasonably expect to buy a new vehicle today, put hundreds of thousands of miles on it and not put a spanner to it.
In the 70's this sort of reliability was something you would only find in manned space flights.
If they don't use something, why? you can bet they've tested it.
I find it at least a good reference point to start from.
Noel
I just use DOT 4... Because if the known issue with the clutch salve, my plan is to bleed some fluid out and replenish as needed every spring and again at the end of the season while changing oil. A few years ago I rebuilt mine, and knew there were some problems in the bore. This winter I bought a new one from Randy. :biggrin:
George
My parts from RPM arrived today. I was surprised at how quickly they arrived! Thank you for the fast shipping. Now I just need to wait for my SS brake line & I can get to work. I can't wait to ride this bike for the first time. :dash2:
I'm still interested in this fluid issue.
Thanks
~JM~
Yes he ships real fast ! I won't throw any log on the digital brake fluid fire. :lol:
George
You know, you prompted me to do some more reading, and I'm back to being on the fence and leaning on the side of conventional knowledge.
See, opinions do change. ;)