Ok so I swapped out my FJ clutch master for a FJR master. FJ 15mm bore, FJR 14 mm bore. Couple of questions: hopefully I can ask them in some sensical manner. Does anyone else's bike *clunk* into 1st gear from neutral when starting from stop (say a red light)? Mine does now and did with the original FJ master. Although it seems more so after the swap. Also shifting seems to be harder that it used to be, if I'm not right at that perfect rpm range. Do I need to install a stiffer clutch spring? The clutch it bled properly. I know the clutch is working because there is no slippage and I can start the bike in gear with the clutch engaged and it starts with no pull whatsoever. Also, which I assume is because its a 14mm piston, I have to pull the lever all the way in to engage the clutch, which I have become used to and is not really a problem. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I don't want to destroy my gears!
Thanks
Andrew
effie clunks into first,but not everytime,,the 88 does but a lot less, but the standard 84 is smooooth as a nympho,s thighs, low klm seem to make the difference, ,
Quote from: fj11.5 on April 05, 2013, 02:21:16 AM
effie clunks into first,but not everytime,,the 88 does but a lot less, but the standard 84 is smooooth as a nympho,s thighs, low klm seem to make the difference, ,
An unexpected benefit of my recently replaced clutch was that it goes into gear without a clunk after holding the clutch in for only a couple of seconds, even when hot. It has 98,000km's on it.
Noel
hmm handy bit of info noel,, ill give that a try :good2:
Quote from: Tapartacus on April 05, 2013, 01:46:42 AM
Ok so I swapped out my FJ clutch master for a FJR master. FJ 15mm bore, FJR 14 mm bore. Couple of questions: hopefully I can ask them in some sensical manner. Does anyone else's bike *clunk* into 1st gear from neutral when starting from stop (say a red light)? Mine does now and did with the original FJ master. Although it seems more so after the swap. Also shifting seems to be harder that it used to be, if I'm not right at that perfect rpm range. Do I need to install a stiffer clutch spring? The clutch it bled properly. I know the clutch is working because there is no slippage and I can start the bike in gear with the clutch engaged and it starts with no pull whatsoever. Also, which I assume is because its a 14mm piston, I have to pull the lever all the way in to engage the clutch, which I have become used to and is not really a problem. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I don't want to destroy my gears!
Thanks
Andrew
All the issues you mention are consistant with the clutch engaging right off the bar and it has nothing to do with using the FJR M/C. I assume you have it adjusted to one of the lower numbers.
Most of them clunk into gear anyway.
Being 14mm has nothing to do with it.
You DO NOT need a stiffer clutch spring (Jeez!!!!)
A poorly bled clutch can do that. A crook m/c can do that. Clutch bleeding seems to cause a lot of grief here.
More info needed.
How much have you ridden it since the change or was this an observation made before riding?
Have you had the clutch out?
Does the slave have a broken bolt or is it loose? (moving when you use the clutch)
If you sit with it in gear does it start to creep after a time?
Whatever needs to be done to fix it, your clutch should not engage at that point.
Pulling the lever all the way is a pain and you shouldn't have to get used to it.
Noel
The clunk is just the gears engaging. They ALL do it! My '02 FZ1 is just as bad as either of my FJs. My brother's '05 FJR clunked worse.
Using good oil can help soften the clunk somewhat. Mine clunk worse with thinner oil, or when hot.
DavidR.
Quote from: ribbert on April 05, 2013, 07:10:04 AM
Quote from: Tapartacus on April 05, 2013, 01:46:42 AM
Ok so I swapped out my FJ clutch master for a FJR master. FJ 15mm bore, FJR 14 mm bore. Couple of questions: hopefully I can ask them in some sensical manner. Does anyone else's bike *clunk* into 1st gear from neutral when starting from stop (say a red light)? Mine does now and did with the original FJ master. Although it seems more so after the swap. Also shifting seems to be harder that it used to be, if I'm not right at that perfect rpm range. Do I need to install a stiffer clutch spring? The clutch it bled properly. I know the clutch is working because there is no slippage and I can start the bike in gear with the clutch engaged and it starts with no pull whatsoever. Also, which I assume is because its a 14mm piston, I have to pull the lever all the way in to engage the clutch, which I have become used to and is not really a problem. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I don't want to destroy my gears!
Thanks
Andrew
All the issues you mention are consistant with the clutch engaging right off the bar and it has nothing to do with using the FJR M/C. I assume you have it adjusted to one of the lower numbers.
I have it adjusted to #4 on the dial
Most of them clunk into gear anyway.
it did that before clutch swap
Being 14mm has nothing to do with it.
You DO NOT need a stiffer clutch spring (Jeez!!!!)
A poorly bled clutch can do that. A crook m/c can do that. Clutch bleeding seems to cause a lot of grief here.
More info needed.
How much have you ridden it since the change or was this an observation made before riding?
about 400 kilometers
Have you had the clutch out?
no
Does the slave have a broken bolt or is it loose? (moving when you use the clutch)
don't think so
If you sit with it in gear does it start to creep after a time?
not at all
Whatever needs to be done to fix it, your clutch should not engage at that point.
Pulling the lever all the way is a pain and you shouldn't have to get used to it.
Noel
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on April 05, 2013, 09:59:07 AM
Using good oil can help soften the clunk somewhat......
This I've found is true.
Which begs the question.........No, no no, no, no noooooooo! (popcorn)
(My new favorite is Golden Spectro 15w-50. full synthetic ...shifts like butter and does not burn off)
Ok not to start a new oil thread Pat, I'm using Motul 5100 ester 10/40 Technosynthese. I believe semi synthetic. I live on the west coast of BC Canada. lots of rain highs of maybe 28 in August. Also like DavidR said it's worse when hot. Also Pat I thought full synthetic wasn't a good idea.
Andrew
(popcorn) waiting
Mine has always does it, but less so if I remember to pump the lever once right before putting it in gear.
Andrew, The higher the number the longer the throw on the lever. No1 will move the take up point furtherest from the bars.
Other than that the most likely thing I can suggest is the clutch still has some air in it.
You said it's bled properly, how do you know this?
People do seem to have a lot of trouble bleeding these despite the line being short and all uphill.
The wrong lever could also cause this.
Also make sure there is no movement in the slave when you use the clutch such as a broken or loose bolt, a long shot but easily checked and eliminated.
Anyway, move the adjuster to No1 and see how you go and report back.
Noel
Thanks Noel, will check all you have mentioned. It's my understanding the adjustable lever does nothing more than change your hand position on the lever lets say for those with shorter fingers you don't have to reach as much. I didn't think it actually changes the actuation function on the clutch. But I'll experiment on that as well. Thanks for the replies.
Andrew
yes the lever gets closer to the bar, and dousnt actually effect clutch movement, but the closer to the bar it moves the less travel it has to push on the piston,, watch the movement as you adjust the position on the lever, it is only small adjustments but it can effect clutch throw