[ 84-1100 ] So read several the posts about chain adj. and had the shock off when i did the Honda shock mod. Problem was when I was moving the swingarm up and down with the shock off, before I could find center where chain would be tightest, the lower chain that returns to the rear sprocket [the top side of this portion of the chain] would hit on plastic swingarm chain protector, so I couldn't get to center before it hit, as I remember. Don't know if anyone else had this problem.
I am now putting on my city gears 17/42, and need to adj. chain tension. So I have come up with another possible way to adj. chain based on what I call "chain slop". For those of you who post about chain adj. and you have gone several thousand miles without an adj., this is a question for you. My chain has 4000 mi. on it, new 18/38 gearing when installed and now, new 17/42 gearing on. I have a test to "feel" for chain slop/looseness while riding in 1st or 2nd gear. [chain is a DID ZVMX super street]. The test is to chop throttle and then open throttle 1/8 just enough to engage power, then chop throttle and engage again. One can tell if there is any chainslop/slack doing this, so I have adjusted my chain to JUST take up all of the slop/ slack, but no tighter than this. The amount of adj. here on the chain adjuster between where I can start to feel slop and not is one face of the six faced bolt. Am I in the ballpark here , you think? Or is does a properly adjusted chain have a little slop when accelerating as I described. Yea I know this is a on bike test, so anyone that can get back to me on this I would appreciate, with a beer next time I see you.
The point where the chain will be tightest is where the countershaft sprocket, swingarm pivot, and rear sprocket are all in-line with each other.
You should be able to reach this test point without the chain hitting on the rub block. If you've got some slack at this position, then you're done.
I don't know how you can tell chain slop while driving. The crank gear, clutch assembly and transmission all contribute to the overall drivetrain slop. You can't sort them out individually while riding.
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on March 26, 2013, 06:02:56 PM
The point where the chain will be tightest is where the countershaft sprocket, swingarm pivot, and rear Axle are all in-line with each other......
DavidR.
I fixed it for ya David.
Chain tightening 101: Always Remember, a loose chain is a happy chain (to a point)
Bigbore, you are turning a very simple process into a complicated and unreliable one.
The method I have used for the last 45 years with nothing to suggest it doesn't work is to simply put it on the centre stand, slowly rotate the wheel with one hand while checking the chain tension with the other, find the tightest spot, there will be one, and adjust to about 20-25mm of slack at that point. Recheck after tightening axle.
I can tell while riding when a chain is too tight or too loose but it's not how you determine correct adjustment.
Noel
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 26, 2013, 06:46:10 PM
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on March 26, 2013, 06:02:56 PM
The point where the chain will be tightest is where the countershaft , swingarm pivot, and rear Axle are all in-line with each other......
DavidR.
I fixed it for ya David.
Chain tightening 101: Always Remember, a loose chain is a happy chain (to a point)
FIFY, Pat... All
shafts should be in line. Counter, Swingarm pivot and rear axle. :blum1:
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on March 26, 2013, 06:02:56 PM
I don't know how you can tell chain slop while driving. The crank gear, clutch assembly and transmission all contribute to the overall drivetrain slop. You can't sort them out individually while riding.
DavidR.
No, you can't sort them out while riding or use it as a gauge for how much it needs to be adjusted but there is a subtle difference you can feel when it's too loose.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on March 26, 2013, 10:14:57 PM
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on March 26, 2013, 06:02:56 PM
I don't know how you can tell chain slop while driving. The crank gear, clutch assembly and transmission all contribute to the overall drivetrain slop. You can't sort them out individually while riding.
DavidR.
No, you can't sort them out while riding or use it as a gauge for how much it needs to be adjusted but there is a subtle difference you can feel when it's too loose.
Noel
Yeah, and not so subtle when its too tight!..........
i thought the chain was tensioned as per manual 15-20mm worth of play at its tightest point whilst on centrestand.......
Quote from: NJona86FJ on March 27, 2013, 03:55:21 AM
i thought the chain was tensioned as per manual 15-20mm worth of play at its tightest point whilst on centrestand.......
That's a potentially diangerous adjustment guideline, especially if anything has been done to raise the rear end ride height (which a lot of us have done).
The higher the rear end, the looser the chain will appear when on the centerstand. That's why it's important to check the tightness when all the shafts are in line. The chain absolutely won't get any tighter than in this position.
It only takes a few minutes to pull the lower shock mount to check.
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on March 27, 2013, 04:01:43 PM
The higher the rear end, the looser the chain will appear when on the centerstand. That's why it's important to check the tightness when all the shafts are in line. The chain absolutely won't get any tighter than in this position.
It only takes a few minutes to pull the lower shock mount to check.
DavidR.
Is there any reason you couldn't do this once and then determine how it relates to the amount of slack on the centre stand rather than go through that procedure every time?
Noel
Noel,
I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work.
What seems to work for me is to put the bike on the centerstand then tighten the chain until it "just" stops clanking on the left muffler when I roll the rear wheel.
DavidR.
Yes I did the shock mod [Honda 600 shock] and had the centerstand lengthened, if I remember correctly, it was 1.5 inches. Swingarm extends down much further now as this shock must be longer.
For some reason, I was thinking I had to completely remove shock to raise/lower swingarm. If I only need to disconnect lower shock, I will do this and report back as I had said about the chain hitting on the swingarm guard not allowing me to get to the inline position.
Quote from: ribbert on March 28, 2013, 04:14:11 AM
Is there any reason you couldn't do this once and then determine how it relates to the amount of slack on the centre stand rather than go through that procedure every time?
And if you want to get fancy, you make a little block of 1/4" aluminum that you can throw on your keychain, making it very easy to check the chain tension very repeatably.
I can get a stock 1/4"rod at hardware store for that cheaply. I use this 1/2 the way between the front and rear sprocket on the top side of the swing arm under chain to measure?
Quote from: bigbore2 on March 31, 2013, 08:08:18 PM
I can get a stock 1/4"rod at hardware store for that cheaply. I use this 1/2 the way between the front and rear sprocket on the top side of the swing arm under chain to measure?
NO, you use it on the lower (return) run of the chain.
Arnie