Hey all.
Spring time is just around the corner here and I absolutely have to replace my chain and sprockets before getting the ol' girl back on the streets. I've been searching around the forum for the ideal sprocket ratio and definately thinking of going 18-38. Seems to be the best compromise for my city driving (75%) and the yearly highway trip with the guys (reduce highway RPM's a little).
I'm just a little stumped on the type of chain to purchase. From my searches, many people seem to be running EK chains, just wondering on which exact type to buy. There seems to be so many types and prices and I wouldn't want to cheap out on the chain, but wouldn't want to go overprice if I don't need to (if you know what I mean)
Also, with the 18 front sprocket, will I have to worry about extra noise or harsh feel? I understand that the standard 17 sprocket has some sort of dampener on it whereas most of the aftermarket 18 sprockets don't seem to have them.
Thanks for the input / redirection. (I would have thought there would be a sticky on this topic somewhere around this forum!)
I am about to order a new chain and have settled on a 530 EK ZZZ. Full in cost I think is 157.00 for the one I am looking at. I have a cheap chain on right now BUT I am real nervous about it holding up. It's in good shape just cheap... When the chain lets go it can and has caused a lot of permanent damage to your motor not to mention your body. If that's any help.
George
I will vote for the ZZZ chain .... Brutus was eating DID ZVM's for lunch ( one a year on average)
switched to the EKZZZ chain on referral from a friend of mine who rides a turbo busa .
In 5 years since i have not had to adjust the chain for any reason other than tire changes.
good stuff!
Kookaloo!
My 2 top contenders are the EK ZZZ and the DID ZVM2, you can't go wrong with either one. I have the DID's on both blokes and they are holding up very very well...as in no stretch at all.
Yes, the oem Yamaha counter sprocket had a rubber damper for noise purposes only, the aftermarket non dampened sprockets are fine to use.
Re: ratio's. The 18 tooth counter sprocket, having a larger diameter, is a bit gentler on the chain.
The best ratio I have found with a stock engine is 18-40. It all depends on your riding style.
Cheers!
+1 on a DID. I'm a budget conscious biker, but I'll "invest" real money in tires, chains and brake pads.
Andy
Thanks for the input fellas.
Will be going the EK ZZZ route for sure. Since it will be my first time purchasing a chain (and I will be purchasing online) it isn't always clear if the rivet link is included with the chain... Can you guys advise? Just trying to get everything ready for the install and not get stalled up with what I like to call: surprises.
Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
I bought a new EK ZZZ about a month ago and it came supplied with the rivet link. Be aware that you require a chain riveting tool to install this rivet link. It can be done with 2 hammers but I would not take the risk using this method. Pete.
The 18/38 gearing is fine for the city, stop and go, and much, much better for the highway, just did a 3300 mi. trip last fall and glad I wasn't using 17/42. However I got a 17/42 gearing for city driving and for tuning so I can get the punch out of the engine I like. 18/38 is just too smooth for my tastes around town. I just switch gearing out for trips and such.
Quote from: oldktmdude on March 21, 2013, 10:08:47 PM
I bought a new EK ZZZ about a month ago and it came supplied with the rivet link. Be aware that you require a chain riveting tool to install this rivet link. It can be done with 2 hammers but I would not take the risk using this method. Pete.
Did the link come with the spacers/shims to prevent over tightening the link when riveted ?
If I didn't have the tool then I would rivet it off the bike using a vise or iron to back it up while riveting with a hammer and punch. If it comes with shims this helps a lot to avoid over riveting the link. You would have to remove the rear wheel and disconnect the swing arm to install. That's really not that difficult. (or maybe I have had to much experience doing that that....).
I haven't ordered it yet, but I am planning on the same chain. Its been well over 25 years since I have had to deal with a chain.
George
Invest in a riveting tool. Do the job right.
The best chain in the world will do no good if that master link comes apart.
trust me, take pats advice :i_am_so_happy:
Quote from: fj11.5 on March 22, 2013, 12:26:50 AM
trust me, take pats advice :i_am_so_happy:
I think you have forced some of us (me) to do a little soul searching on the chain issue. Have you decided to pull the motor for repair yet ?
George
still unsure to take it out, or have it welded in the frame, ,if i take it out i know ill pull the ambulance apart and just use that engine, has a lot less klm,s, then just fix effies anyway
Sounds like it might be better to just use the ambulance motor. Take some of the "fix it" pressure off you. I have never pulled the engine out but looking and reading about it. It doesn't look that hard to do. Gives you a little time to do a good fix on your motor. Kinda hard to get a good weld with it in the frame isn't it ?
George
sure would make things easier at the moment just to use the other engine,, been wanting to try it with my gearing :biggrin:,, yes welding would be much easier with it out, especially the broken mount, the oil leaking bolt bracket would be easy to weld or maybe jb epoxy putty if i was desperate
Quote from: movenon on March 21, 2013, 10:34:35 PM
Quote from: oldktmdude on March 21, 2013, 10:08:47 PM
I bought a new EK ZZZ about a month ago and it came supplied with the rivet link. Be aware that you require a chain riveting tool to install this rivet link. It can be done with 2 hammers but I would not take the risk using this method. Pete.
Did the link come with the spacers/shims to prevent over tightening the link when riveted ?
If I didn't have the tool then I would rivet it off the bike using a vise or iron to back it up while riveting with a hammer and punch. If it comes with shims this helps a lot to avoid over riveting the link. You would have to remove the rear wheel and disconnect the swing arm to install. That's really not that difficult. (or maybe I have had to much experience doing that that....).
I haven't ordered it yet, but I am planning on the same chain. Its been well over 25 years since I have had to deal with a chain.
George
The chain did not come with shims or spacers. I measured the assembled width of the new chain with Vernier callipers and pressed the master link on to the same dimension. There are some good instructional videos on Youtube to refresh your memory. Worth a look. Pete.
If you need a riveting tool, check out the Stockton unit that Cycle Gear carries.
Probably not the absolute "best" tool (that would be the $150 DID tools). But you'll only use it a few times and it's usually priced well.
DavidR.
Quote from: PeteGLH on March 21, 2013, 09:07:26 PM
Thanks for the input fellas.
Will be going the EK ZZZ route for sure. Since it will be my first time purchasing a chain (and I will be purchasing online) it isn't always clear if the rivet link is included with the chain... Can you guys advise? Just trying to get everything ready for the install and not get stalled up with what I like to call: surprises.
Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
my ZZZ chain came with nice install spacers so you dont press the side on too far and crush the o-rings....the EK ZZZ is the only chain i've used that comes with these..... really makes installing the master link a no brainer. :good2:
KOokaloo!
Other EK rivet links come with the spacers. At least, some of them do, and they're really helpful to get things exactly right.
Quote from: andyb on March 22, 2013, 12:40:41 PM
Other EK rivet links come with the spacers. At least, some of them do, and they're really helpful to get things exactly right.
That's one of the reasons I am going with the EK over the DID. The shims/spacers take a lot of the guess work out of it. Just about imposable to end up with to tight of a connection.
George
put on a RK XW-Ring-530GXW this morning, riveted with riveting tool (popcorn)
(http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee445/FJspringy/23032013055.jpg)
(http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee445/FJspringy/23032013052.jpg)
funny morning, took the hugger off and put the old ali chain guard on didn't need to :mad:, forgot the bobbins needed them :ireful:.
had a chat with my mechanic mate :yahoo: took 2 hours to do a 10 min job bloody good morning all round.
geez I am getting lazy :dance2: :dance2: :dance2:
i just fitted mine ... same as yours fj springy... got it right then dropped it off the rear cog, using a pin punch or centre pop ( with a good correctly sharpened point... yes im fussy.... maybe) and the centrte stand as a base to "tap" against and a hammer. works. but then again i have run a chain with a joining plate and clip, lost the clip so used 2 circlips ( i dont recommend this!!! they get a bit "thin")
hey fjspringy,, just wondering what swingarm you've fitted, and what year your fj is, , im guessing its 88 or later, im hopeing to fit an xjr arm but will need to have some welding done
Quote from: fj11.5 on March 23, 2013, 05:02:02 AM
hey fjspringy,, just wondering what swingarm you've fitted, and what year your fj is, , im guessing its 88 or later, im hopeing to fit an xjr arm but will need to have some welding done
It's a 92 with a T/Ace conversion been running it like this for nearly 10 years.
awesome, thanks mate, , any problems width wise at the mountin points
:scratch_one-s_head:
Quote from: fj11.5 on March 23, 2013, 05:34:10 AM
awesome, thanks mate, , any problems width wise at the mountin points
You do need to machine bits off, from memory and it been a long time Marc Rittner's instructions are the best, just wish I had seen them when I did mine all those years back.
I started off talking to Barry Edwards and worked it out from there, very happy with it.
thank you, ill check out marks info,, will need to have mounts welded on for the shock linkage, ,unless i can find another way to do it, as the 84,s dont have the dog bone style linkages
Quote from: NJona86FJ on March 23, 2013, 04:39:47 AM
i just fitted mine ... same as yours fj springy... got it right then dropped it off the rear cog, using a pin punch or centre pop ( with a good correctly sharpened point... yes im fussy.... maybe) and the centrte stand as a base to "tap" against and a hammer. works. but then again i have run a chain with a joining plate and clip, lost the clip so used 2 circlips ( i dont recommend this!!! they get a bit "thin")
I have tried every bush mechanics trick for joining links without a tool. The only one I have found satisfactory, that is, a perfectly uniform spread of the pin, is to stick a ball bearing onto the end of the pin with a bit of grease and then hit it with a hammer. Last time I used the one from the rear foot peg, it's the perfect size.
The hardest part is getting something solid and heavy enough behind it with no spring in it. I have an old artillery shell that I can barely lift that I use as a mini anvil that is perfect, it's about 5" in diameter.
In my view the centre stand is too springy.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on March 23, 2013, 08:29:17 AM
I have an old artillery shell that I can barely lift that I use as a mini anvil that is perfect...
Oh, GREAT! I can just see it now:
(http://stream1.gifsoup.com/webroot/animatedgifs5/2180834_o.gif) , then: (http://img.thesun.co.uk/multimedia/archive/00347/F_200707_July26ed_i_347038a.jpg)
Thanks for all the great info guys. I definately do plan on getting the tool, I don't think the FJ will be the only bike I will ever own (but for some reason, I think I will own it for a lonnnnng time.) I might need it for future projects :)
Looking forward to the kook, another 3 weeks before I get her out and running, can't wait.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/250784_10151868816885271_674160716_n.jpg)
yeah i can be rough noel... chuckles it was on the centre stand when i did it.... but it was a bodge that worked.... not a regular thing i do ... but i do still like me centre punchs.... lol i prolly should clarify my centre pop is a tooth out of a miningcutter head......
Well guys.
Got the job done over the weekend. Got myself a standard O-Ring D.I.D chain after all with 17/41 sprocket setup. Changed the rear pads and oil in the process. Had to drill and re-thread the calipers as the bolts broke in the housing, definate pain in the arse. Other than that, I would say it went pretty well. Got the riveting tool and it made the whole change so much easier.
Here are some pictures of the rear and front sprockets. Needless to say, the kook is back to "awesome" since the change.
Cheers and thanks for all the help guys.
(popcorn)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/10758_10152726420380271_2107594546_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/526956_10152726419905271_673202045_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/299106_10152726420055271_897508367_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/525448_10152726420140271_57188015_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/7239_10152726420330271_1356368963_n.jpg)
I would venture to say you got your moneys worth out of that sprocket. Big R
Quote from: big r on March 31, 2013, 07:14:51 PM
I would venture to say you got your moneys worth out of that sprocket. Big R
I would definately agree with that. I don't know much about bikes, but I don't think that type of wear is normal by any standards.
Quote from: PeteGLH on March 31, 2013, 09:34:38 PM
I don't know much about bikes, but I don't think that type of wear is normal by any standards.
Actually, it is pretty normal wear for a sprocket that hasn't had its chain kept oiled and tensioned. If you'd left it for a while longer those sharp tips would have worn away too and you'd have a "sprocket" that was just nubs, and probably a very stretched chain to match. If you gave it a handful of throttle, you wouldn't go anywhere but the noise would sound like a machine gun as the chain jumped from nub to nub.
I saw a sprocket like I've just described on a little Suzuki 200 commuter that had had zero maintenance. Owner couldn't figure out why it made so much noise :-)
Arnie