OK, so I got the instructions. I got the pictures. I mostly get the concept.
I went to Home Depot and got some 3/8 threaded rod and a pack of bolts and washers. I have 23 and 24mm 1/2in drive sockets.
I started on the left side of the bike. I removed the bolts and the offset thing on the outside. I then removed the long bolt under them that holds the actual rubber bushing. Then I removed the bushing itself and both of the "caps" on either side of this sleeve. I was then able to see what the pictures showed. So I used a 3/8" bolt on the inside threaded onto the rod. On the outside I placed the socket, 2 large washers and another 3/8' bolt. I grabbed the end of the rod w/ the vice grips and began the process of trying to "press". I made sure several times that the bolt on the inside was directly on the bit that's supposed to be moving. Won't budge. Sprayed some WD40 and waited. Still won't budge. I actually cut the threads on the rod from putting so much pressure and basically had to give up unless I can cut through it w/ the Dremmel and try again (just to get another piece long enough). That's pretty seized.
Thoughts? Is there a better tool for this job?
Frustrated. :dash2: :ireful:
BillO
I used alot of leverage to get Deans out on his bike recently. Not a fun job. It would probably help to apply heat to the case. there is nothing in there except for the sleeve riding in a bushing so a little localized heat shouldnt hurt anything but possibly the paint. I think it took me about 4 hours total to free up the bushings on the DeanabagoII.
also a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone is reported to be the s**t for removing stuck bolts.
Be careful not to pop the bushing out of the case itself. Try PB Blaster and let it sit overnight.
If they are that stuck, then Kim is going to be amazed when you get them fixed.
It's worth the effort.
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on September 10, 2009, 10:46:18 PM
Be careful not to pop the bushing out of the case itself. Try PB Blaster and let it sit overnight.
That was my experience. Had to let them sit overnight after soaking with Seaform brand penetrating oil.
Great joy when it finally moved :yahoo:
Thanks. Just wanted to make sure that I wasn't necessarily doing it wrong just because it wouldn't budge. Guess I'll be buying more threaded rod and some penetrating oil today. So, WD40 isn't penetrating then? Liars.
WD-40 Not even in the same league as PB Blaster when it comes to loosening bolts.......
Quote from: vulcanbill on September 11, 2009, 07:56:09 AM
So, WD40 isn't penetrating then? Liars.
No, it's just for chain maintenance. :-)
DavidR.
So... does this stuff take long to penetrate? :dash1:
FAIL!!! :dash2:
I sprayed it down a couple times. I've tried to the point that my hand is sore and I have no more leverage. It's getting put back together and it's going to continue to vibrate. If I were the type that cussed, this would be the time. Luckily, I'm not.
:ireful: :negative:
Before you do that, try this. Get the bolt as tight as you can and then whack the end of it with a hammer. The combination of pressure and a good whack will often break things loose when no amount of twisting with hand tools will.
Maybe... if I had a lift and the right tools this could have come together apart. But as it is, I'm sitting "pretzel" style on the floor trying to get leverage with an 8" long box wrench. It's not happening. The bear of it is that when I was putting it back together, I heard the sleeve moving back in...pop pop pop. I didn't realize it had moved out at all. :dash2: So, I took everything back off and tried again. This time it moved about an 1/8 of an inch and stopped. Grrr. Put it back together and it moved back again. So, therefore, it must be freed up and will come right out this time cuz I've loosed it, right? Disassembled a third time to find it wouldn't move at all. I'm done.
Get a bigger hammer!
Seriously... Force = mass x acceleration, and you ain't got much mass in an 8" box wrench!
You might try taking a header pipe off and holding the rod from the other (engine) side. That would let you put an impact driver on the outside. The pounding of the impact might help break things up. This is a really great maintenance action. The results in reduction in vibes is worth a little more trouble, IMO.
DavidR.
And for those that have the solid aluminum mount, I have been using a urethane bushing as a replacement. In the race car I can't use the outer shoulder/flange and have been trimming that section off. The bushing comes with in, but it too thick.
I have to change them out on my bike this winter and will be changing over to the urethane bushing.
When I get the research/modifications figured out, I will add those bushing to my inventory.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: the fan on September 10, 2009, 06:25:37 PM
also a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone is reported to be the s**t for removing stuck bolts.
This is no longer to be considered rumor, but is INDEED verified. I am removing uncooperative head studs from a FJ head, and all that were not damaged have become cooperative after a 48 hr soak in 50/50 acetone & ATF. OF course, it helps when you use Amsoil ATF, Naturally :yahoo: