OK, maybe a little more than 2.00 but not by much. Over the years I have changed a lot of tires at home and a few the field. I had heard about using tie wraps but until now I had never tried it. Well it works.... This morning I went out grabbed my GSXR rim and a new Michelin Pilot Road 3, 180 55 17 and had it mounted and inflated in less than 7 minutes by hand... Using no hard tools unless you count the side cuts to remove the tie wraps. I still can't believe how easy it was to do.
Stuff to have on hand:
7 or 8 - 24" long tie wraps (a bag of them purchased from Harbor Freight for less than 2.00)
Small bottle of Baby Shampoo (Cheap.... TIP: do not substitute)
1 ratcheting tie down strap (on hand, bike tie down)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_19_02_13_3_08_41.jpeg)
Use 24" plastic tie wraps. Bought from Harbor Freight for less than 2.00. For soap use Baby Shampoo. I have used other soaps and mixtures. Baby Shampoo mixed 50% with water is the slickest...... Cheap / smells good and works the best.....
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_19_02_13_3_10_44.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_19_02_13_3_17_43.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_19_02_13_3_28_39.jpeg)
Pull the 24" tie wraps as tight as possable. Get the tire beads as close to each other as you can. This is what makes it easy to install. Put your knee on to the tire and compress, pulling on the tie wraps. You will have to go around the tire a time or two. Only takes less than a minute to do. When you get ready to slip the tire on, coat tire and rim liberally with Baby Shampoo mixed about 50% with water. TIP: use Baby Shampoo.......... It is slick.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_19_02_13_3_40_32.jpeg)
I started to mount the tire and wanted to reposition the tire for another photo and the tire literally pressed in to the rim...... I was expecting to fight it a little but it just slipped into the rim..... No tools, no jumping on the tire, no pounding, no grunting, no frustration etc.. Just pressed right in by my 65 year old hand. Did I mention use Baby Shampoo? :yahoo: After the tire is on the rim cut the tie wraps, thank them, then throw them in the trash.....
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_19_02_13_3_43_29.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_19_02_13_4_03_36.jpeg)
After the tire is on the rim in order to re-inflate and to set the bead. Use a ratcheting strap to compress the tire radially to force the bead into the rim enabling it to seal and re-inflate. You can also use a rope or strap using a stick or bar twisted to tighten up the tire. It is just easier to do by yourself with a ratcheting strap/motorcycle tie down. Any cheap strap will work.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_19_02_13_4_05_24.jpeg)
Mounted......
Very nice. Great write up, thanks. I just spent $$$ getting two tires mounted. Next time I'll know better.
I will be doing this shortly for front and rear, the balancing stand was $40 at Harbor Freight. It would normally cost me $30 to $35 to have a shop M&B the tires for me, now after my first set I will be on the Black side of the balance sheet. The cable ties are a nice alternative if you don't already have the straps in a drawer, I don't, but I have the ties. Thanks for the great post.
Very cool, thanks--------?
I don't know your name...I checked your back posts but you haven't mentioned it...
Question: Do you need a compressor for a big blast of air to seat the bead or will my 12v portable do it?
Thanks again, Pat
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 19, 2013, 06:49:15 PM
Very cool, thanks--------?
I don't know your name...I checked your back posts but you haven't mentioned it...
Question: Do you need a compressor for a big blast of air to seat the bead or will my 12v portable do it?
Thanks again, Pat
Pat, you can will it to inflate, no need for pesky straps.... Unless you like straps... :diablo:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 19, 2013, 06:49:15 PM
Very cool, thanks--------?
I don't know your name...I checked your back posts but you haven't mentioned it...
Question: Do you need a compressor for a big blast of air to seat the bead or will my 12v portable do it?
Thanks again, Pat
Pat: Sorry , it's George.
I used my shop compressor. It didn't seem like it took a lot of air before it popped on the bead. If you get a seal then I would think anything that can get up to 40 or 50 PSI would set the bead. If your 12 volt unit will not seat it then take the rim up to a auto tire store / gas station etc and use there air.
I think most of the time you will have to put a radial strap around to squeeze down on the tire forcing the bead out to the rim edge. It depends on the tire. probably more common with low profile tires? Heck, just do it :).
When I had the tire clamped down with the plastic tie wraps and set it on the rim as you would normally do, there was moment there where you normally would start fighting it with tire irons, that I thought "oh here's where the problem starts" but I just pushed down by hand and heck it just slipped right on. No scratching or marring of the rim. There is a fellow on You Tube doing this but he seemed to work up a sweat. I did it while drinking my morning coffee. :morning1: No sweat....No forcing... I don't think he was using enough plastic ties and he was using Windex or something like that. (you don't need squeaky clean, your want slippery clean).
FJmonkey: Let me know how it go's with you. I also have the same balancer. Works good enough for me. Most motorcycle magazines etc. all have H.F. ads with 20% off coupons knocking the price down. It looks like the key is to get the beads as close as you can with the plastic ties and using lots of Baby Shampoo mixed with a little water. That stuff is slick, it might have some lotion or some such in it. It will also help when you set the bead.
George
If the tire is lubricated* and warm** it'll seat usually without much pressure. Not more than 50psi usually, often 40 is enough.
If the tire is dry and cold, you're in for a long day, in my experience. A gas station air compressor will do it though, before I had one myself.
*Real tire lube is not dish soap. KY is a better choice than dish soap and works well.
**Leave it laying in the sun while you get the rim off and such, on a decently warm day. Doing it with cold tires is not much fun.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 19, 2013, 06:49:15 PM
Very cool, thanks--------?
I don't know your name...I checked your back posts but you haven't mentioned it...
Question: Do you need a compressor for a big blast of air to seat the bead or will my 12v portable do it?
Thanks again, Pat
No compressor required... :biggrin:
http://youtu.be/mHZ0_OIF0eE (http://youtu.be/mHZ0_OIF0eE)
My brother knocked my atv tire off the rim and we popped it back on with a can of fixaflat out on the trail. Oh yah and his belt around the tire.
Quote from: giantkiller on February 19, 2013, 09:33:13 PM
My brother knocked my atv tire off the rim and we popped it back on with a can of fixaflat out on the trail. Oh yah and his belt around the tire. quote]
This would be your BIG brother then.
Ya small tire. Large brother
When seating the bead it helps if you remove the valve core. Less restriction for the air entering
Scott
There's usually a spot of paint on the tire that corresponds to the valve stem location. In theory, lining it up will make the balancing process easier.
Also, remember that the tire will have a direction of rotation arrow on it, too.
It sucks to find it after-the-fact, and realize that you got it mounted wrong!
Steve
Quote from: Steve_in_Florida on February 19, 2013, 10:38:00 PM
There's usually a spot of paint on the tire that corresponds to the valve stem location. In theory, lining it up will make the balancing process easier.
Also, remember that the tire will have a direction of rotation arrow on it, too.
It sucks to find it after-the-fact, and realize that you got it mounted wrong!
Steve
Did the wrong way thing once with a knobby tire. Life is a learning experience. :mail1:
The Michelin Pilot Road 3 isn't marked with a red dot but some tires are. As I understand it the red dot or mark is supposed to be the heaviest part of the tire.
What you should do is balance the rim without the tire and mark/tape the the LIGHTEST spot on the rim and when you mount the tire, line that up with the heavy / red dot marking on the tire. It should help minimize the amount of weights.
Also with the H.F. balancer spinning the tire hard is a waste of time. Just turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turns back and forth letting the tire rotate on it's own. After the wheel stops wiggle / tap /vibrate on the upright arms a bit and the tire will settle ( bearings are not the best quality in the balancer ). I will "MOD" that also at some later date.
As it is it works fine for home use you just got to know the quarks.
Flea bay also sells a balancer with better bearings but you have to build the upright support arms. You could set the cross bar on a set of adjustable jack stands also.
George
Now *that* is a fantastic write up. I would never have thought of using cable ties etc, now we know. :drinks:
great info mate, must give it a go, have a tyre that needs fitting, tried for days to get it to go on with tyre levers, soap, ect but couldnt get it to slip over the inner shoulder on one side :wacko2:
Dot yellow is supposed to be Light spot on tire so line up with heavy spot on rim. Usually valve stem
Quote from: movenon on February 19, 2013, 11:52:08 PM
The Michelin Pilot Road 3 isn't marked with a red dot but some tires are. As I understand it the red dot or mark is supposed to be the heaviest part of the tire.
What you should do is balance the rim without the tire and mark/tape the the LIGHTEST spot on the rim and when you mount the tire, line that up with the heavy / red dot marking on the tire. It should help minimize the amount of weights.
IIRC, someone on one of the old FJ lists asked Michelin about that. I guess they claimed that their tires are so well made as to not need a balance mark.
Local Cycle Gear said they would spin balance for free wheel of bike. Hope this helps?
Kurt
Quote from: not a lib on February 20, 2013, 09:12:23 AM
Quote from: movenon on February 19, 2013, 11:52:08 PM
The Michelin Pilot Road 3 isn't marked with a red dot but some tires are. As I understand it the red dot or mark is supposed to be the heaviest part of the tire.
What you should do is balance the rim without the tire and mark/tape the the LIGHTEST spot on the rim and when you mount the tire, line that up with the heavy / red dot marking on the tire. It should help minimize the amount of weights.
IIRC, someone on one of the old FJ lists asked Michelin about that. I guess they claimed that their tires are so well made as to not need a balance mark.
I have heard that before. All I can say is I checked the balance of the rim before mounting and after the tire/tyre was mounted and there wasn't much of a change.
Scott: My air chuck requires that I have a air valve in to work. It didn't slow the inflating down any. Now if I was mounting a semi truck tire/tyre it might be different.
Dot, dots, dots, now I am seeing dots.. red ones, yellow ones, white ones..... :dash2:
George
Quote from: not a lib on February 20, 2013, 09:12:23 AM
IIRC, someone on one of the old FJ lists asked Michelin about that. I guess they claimed that their tires are so well made as to not need a balance mark.
this is correct..... i balanced my rim without a tire on it and have used 7 sets of michelins since without having to add any extra weight or rotate the tire on the rim to get perfect balance.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 20, 2013, 04:16:17 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 20, 2013, 09:12:23 AM
IIRC, someone on one of the old FJ lists asked Michelin about that. I guess they claimed that their tires are so well made as to not need a balance mark.
this is correct..... i balanced my rim without a tire on it and have used 7 sets of michelins since without having to add any extra weight or rotate the tire on the rim to get perfect balance.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Good I will do the front wheel and tire next month !
George
Quote from: X-Ray on February 20, 2013, 04:19:56 AM
Now *that* is a fantastic write up. I would never have thought of using cable ties etc, now we know. :drinks:
LOTS of jobs where you can use cable ties to help out -- won't post pics of he shock spring swap done with them however... :ireful:
Excellent post George! :good2: Wish we could give Karma here I'd load you up. :drinks:
Quote from: fj1289 on February 21, 2013, 12:05:23 AM
LOTS of jobs where you can use cable ties to help out -- won't post pics of he shock spring swap done with them however... :ireful:
Oh, come on...
pleeeze post them! :biggrin:
Thanks for the post. I learned something new today. The difference is this thing I learned is actually useful!!!!
Cool 'How-To', but you left out the best reason. No more tears (that's why you use baby shampoo).
Quote from: FeralRdr on February 24, 2013, 09:52:58 AM
Cool 'How-To', but you left out the best reason. No more tears (that's why you use baby shampoo).
And your bike smells good when you are done...
George
So what is the trick to getting a tire off the rim? Today, I tried using a bench vise to break the bead and a sawzall to cut my 16" rear off the stock rear wheel I still had laying around. 30 minutes of blood, sweat, and tears, and no avail - the tire is still on the rim. Tell me there's an easier way. ??
You can always buy a bead-breaker like the one pictured here:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/385538_10150951435786615_269068155_n.jpg)
I got it from Kapsco Moto: http://www.kapscomoto.com/product_p/smi2063.htm (http://www.kapscomoto.com/product_p/smi2063.htm)
You could also make your own which I believe some have done with a couple 2x4's.
If you want to make it really easy, just cut the side walls off using a utility knife. It really is as easy as it sounds. See photo below which shows the two side walls and tread next to the bead breaker. This is the method I will use from now on.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/376367_10150953640351615_329644054_n.jpg)
Hope that helps,
Zwartie
Quote from: markmartin on February 24, 2013, 09:01:00 PM
So what is the trick to getting a tire off the rim? Today, I tried using a bench vise to break the bead and a sawzall to cut my 16" rear off the stock rear wheel I still had laying around. 30 minutes of blood, sweat, and tears, and no avail - the tire is still on the rim. Tell me there's an easier way. ??
Burgman 650 - DIY - Bead Breaker (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grunCumm8go#)
George
Quote from: Zwartie on February 24, 2013, 10:15:44 PM
You can always buy a bead-breaker like the one pictured here:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/385538_10150951435786615_269068155_n.jpg)
I got it from Kapsco Moto: http://www.kapscomoto.com/product_p/smi2063.htm (http://www.kapscomoto.com/product_p/smi2063.htm)
You could also make your own which I believe some have done with a couple 2x4's.
If you want to make it really easy, just cut the side walls off using a utility knife. It really is as easy as it sounds. See photo below which shows the two side walls and tread next to the bead breaker. This is the method I will use from now on.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/376367_10150953640351615_329644054_n.jpg)
Hope that helps,
Zwartie
Quote from: markmartin on February 24, 2013, 09:01:00 PM
So what is the trick to getting a tire off the rim? Today, I tried using a bench vise to break the bead and a sawzall to cut my 16" rear off the stock rear wheel I still had laying around. 30 minutes of blood, sweat, and tears, and no avail - the tire is still on the rim. Tell me there's an easier way. ??
I just purchased one similar to the one you have. Best thing Ive bought in a while. I think I could have pushed the bead off with air in the tire. Pushed both beads off in about 2 min.
Has anyone here tried these?
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0519/ (http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0519/)
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/MotionPro_zps345054c2.jpg)
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/Motion-Pro-Bead-Pro-2_zpsb2888034.jpg)
I use the method in the video posted earlier to break the bead (plank of wood and a block ). Does the job . I find getting them on no probs with out the cable ties so I dont usually bother with them . Great tutorial though !! Also I use axle stands to balance the wheel . Just Level them up with a spirit level , lay the wheel on it on its axle pin and bobs yer uncle !
That looks like it may have promise.
Dan
Looks handy for a field repair but kind of expensive. I have popped a bead in the field once using my buddy's bike by putting his kick stand down and lowering his kick stand on the tire bead. Thank goodness for tubeless tires and plugs. New tires have become so reliable that I have to fess up, I don't even have a tire repair kit on my bike anymore. Guess I had better get one of those CO2/plug kits. Probably pushed my luck enough. :rofl:
George
I have a bead breaker tool from Aerostich and have used it often.
There were quite a few tires that it was still major work to break the bead. That "hand held" tool may work on a dirt bike tire, but it would have been a waste of money on every rear tire I have done. No way it would generate enough force.
DavidR.
Quote from: movenon on March 01, 2013, 12:28:03 PM
Looks handy for a field repair but kind of expensive. I have popped a bead in the field once using my buddy's bike by putting his kick stand down and lowering his kick stand on the tire bead. Thank goodness for tubeless tires and plugs. New tires have become so reliable that I have to fess up, I don't even have a tire repair kit on my bike anymore. Guess I had better get one of those CO2/plug kits. Probably pushed my luck enough. :rofl:
George
George, I hadn't carried a repair kit for 42 years, until about 6mths ago and I had never had a puncture, UNTIL a few weeks ago. Thank Goodness for my trusty CO2 kit. There is no convenient place to have a puncture, unless someone stabs your tyre through the night in you garage, even then it can spoil your planned day.
It takes 5 canisters to inflate a 180 tyre to 32psi (according to the blurb) and there is a sequence to not losing your air while changing canisters.
I didn't learn this from the instructions but the hard way on the roadside. Fortunately it was only a few hundred metres to a garage. But, HAD I read the instructions I WOULD have known.
It scares me to think of the places I've been over the years and what would have been the outcome of a flat.
I don't agree that modern motorbike tyre technology has anything to do with infrequent punctures. In the interest of weight, there is not much to the carcass of a bike tyre and a worn out one is scarily thin.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on March 02, 2013, 05:17:37 AM
Quote from: movenon on March 01, 2013, 12:28:03 PM
Looks handy for a field repair but kind of expensive. I have popped a bead in the field once using my buddy's bike by putting his kick stand down and lowering his kick stand on the tire bead. Thank goodness for tubeless tires and plugs. New tires have become so reliable that I have to fess up, I don't even have a tire repair kit on my bike anymore. Guess I had better get one of those CO2/plug kits. Probably pushed my luck enough. :rofl:
George
George, I hadn't carried a repair kit for 42 years, until about 6mths ago and I had never had a puncture, UNTIL a few weeks ago. Thank Goodness for my trusty CO2 kit. There is no convenient place to have a puncture, unless someone stabs your tyre through the night in you garage, even then it can spoil your planned day.
It takes 5 canisters to inflate a 180 tyre to 32psi (according to the blurb) and there is a sequence to not losing your air while changing canisters.
I didn't learn this from the instructions but the hard way on the roadside. Fortunately it was only a few hundred metres to a garage. But, HAD I read the instructions I WOULD have known.
It scares me to think of the places I've been over the years and what would have been the outcome of a flat.
I don't agree that modern motorbike tyre technology has anything to do with infrequent punctures. In the interest of weight, there is not much to the carcass of a bike tyre and a worn out one is scarily thin.
Noel
It kinda like KARMA, now that the subject has been brought up, I will sure as shit will have a flat....... Next week I will order a CO2 repair kit (and read the instructions). I rode over 100,000 miles with a BMW and never had a flat. It stupidly has embolden me to keep on with my ill informed ways. You are right it only takes once. The Western US is not as bad as OZ for being out in the middle of no where but it has it places. And no place is good for a flat. To top it off I ride alone a lot of the time.
I just put on a new 180 tyre and have a new front wheel out being powder coated for a 120 on the front. Trying to get things in descent shape for this spring.
I was wondering how many canisters/cartrages it would take, now I know ! Thanks for the information Noel. :good2:
George
My theory on less punctures is this: Punctures are most commonly nails and screws. How did they get on the road? Years ago these sold in cardboard boxes and after a time the back of any trade vehicle had hundreds of them lying around the floor after the boxes fell apart or got wet or ripped and would fall out of side doors, tail gates etc.
These days they are sold in plastic tubs and there is plethora of storage/compartment units in which to keep them. I used to see trade vans carpeted in loose screws and nails with a good number of them having found their way on to the steps just waiting to jiggle out onto the road.
Having said that, my puncture was part of a silver bracelet with one link having opened up and was sticking out of the tyre with several links still hanging down from it.
Noel