Just wondering what year brake calipers can I bolt straight onto my 89 FJ.One of the members told me I could do this but I forgot to ask what year would work.
THANKS BUDDY
"Many" years! Basically any non-radial mount R1/R6/FZ1/YZF600/Warrior blue spot or gold spot monobloc calipers.
What are the differences between the blue-dot and gold calipers?
Weight?
Pot diameter?
Swept area?
Or just the color? :P
Just the color. :wacko3: One other minor differance some have the brake line attached to the side of the caliper and others on the back.
The gold dots have a lightweight alloy piston. all R6 and R1 non radial calipers have the same bore diameters and side mount brake lines.
The older design monobloc found on the YZF600R (97-07) has mounting points similar to the stock FJ parts. If possible avoid this model (easily identified by external fluid transfer tubes) as they are heavier and flex considerably more than the R6-R1 calipers.
Quote from: the fan on September 09, 2009, 08:41:28 PM
The gold dots have a lightweight alloy piston. all R6 and R1 non radial calipers have the same bore diameters and side mount brake lines.
The older design monobloc found on the YZF600R (97-07) has mounting points similar to the stock FJ parts. If possible avoid this model (easily identified by external fluid transfer tubes) as they are heavier and flex considerably more than the R6-R1 calipers.
Now I'm confused... You're saying that although the YZF600R (non-R6) have mounting points similar to the FJ mounting points, they are less desirable?
The better ones are off R1s and R6s and they also have the right mounting points? Like these for '03-'04 R6 (L) and an '03 R1 (R)?
(http://i31.tinypic.com/25zkoyq.jpg) (http://i27.tinypic.com/n3p5ph.jpg)
These ('04-'06 R1) are the radial type and won't (easily) work?
(http://i29.tinypic.com/219e6as.jpg)
Correct. The YZF600 and the non-radial R1/R6 all mount up to the '89 or newer FJ forks with no mods. The radial mounts will not fit.
As Bill said, the YZF600 units will fit and work, but if you can, get the R1/R6 units. Many times, an ebay auction will have the whole system, including the master cylinder. And I'd recommend getting a set of the R1/R6 caliper mounting bolts.
Thanks, Chris!
So I would gather that the lightweight alloy pistons would make the gold spots a little lighter...
And is there much advantage to getting the R1 master cylinder and reservoir as well?
Given that the FJ isn't a svelt liter superbike, the blue spots are just as good, probably more plentiful and cheaper as well. If you can get the master cylinder (and reservoir), go for it. You'll have to mod a reservoir bracket. Not sure if Jon Cain is still making them. There are other 14mm MCs that will work, although I can't remember the details. Someone will chime in. In any case, the 14mm MC is better match for the system.
I got the pieces off an FZ-1, closed system, for $80 a few years ago. 14mm MC is important, and it also fixes the notchy front MC. And I got the hollow bolts from the R1, they were easy to drill for safety wire.
Thanks, Ed!
The R1 system doesn't have the reservoir mounting issue? Or what did you do about it?
Afraid I don't have the luxury of waiting for a rock-bottom price - it's making me nuts that I've gone through all this and I STILL can't go for a ride!
FWIW, for others reading this (rather a moot point for you, Ed), I've read elsewhere that the "notchy" front m/c can be caused by the (hard) pushrod digging into the (soft) brake lever. Therefore the quick and easy fix is to simply get a new brake lever! ;)
And I've also read that the FJR1300 m/c (if you can find one) works well.
Also FWIW, it seems that the general marketplace has realized that the blue- and gold-dot calipers are virtually identical, and a 5-hour eBay marathon last night revealed that pricing differences were slight. But there are significantly more blue-dots out there; I saw a rather grubby-looking pair with a BIN of $60, and singles as low as $25.
FZ-1 master functions same as FJR; bolt on, bleed & ride off. I did the notch fix, but I also like the multi-position adjustability of the FZ-1 MC.
Trust me/us! You'll LOVE the new brakes!!!
Are the FZ-1 Gen 1 & 2 MCs the same?
Quote from: simi_ed on September 10, 2009, 10:56:11 AM
I got the pieces off an FZ-1, closed system, for $80 a few years ago. 14mm MC is important, and it also fixes the notchy front MC. And I got the hollow bolts from the R1, they were easy to drill for safety wire.
So, Ed, what year was that FZ-1 stuff off of?
TIA
It was off an '05 eBay :rofl:. I guess it was an early 01-03 FZ-1. I don't really know any closerthan that. It looks very similar to the original that I removed. Sorry, can't do better than that ...
Steve.
Have a look on the FZ1 board and see if anyone there has what you're looking for. I picked up my brake master from a guy there a couple years ago. It was slightly rashed, but nothing a little paint couldn't hide and new cover.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p21/jvb_ca/86FJ/2008%20Mods/th_20090912-IMGP3282.jpg) (http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p21/jvb_ca/86FJ/2008%20Mods/?action=view¤t=20090912-IMGP3282.jpg)
Also why don't you just use the blue dot monblocks with your oem master for now until you find a FZ1 or FJR master? That is what I did for the first couple of months. It is still a huge improvement over stock. The 14mm will have a better feel and the nice adjustable levers, but at least you will be riding. Oh and to get rid of the notchy feeling on your stock master, just grind/smooth the plunger or lever thingy and save yourself the cost of a new lever. They ain't cheap.
Just a short time back I looked at the FZ! G1&G2 masters. The P/Ns are different but the only thing that I can see thats different is the G1s have a boss for a mirror where the G2s do not.
So if you were converting a FJ11 use the G1 master and for all the 1200s eather would work.
Thanks, guys,
Late last night, tired of trolling eBay and experiencing severe Kookaloo withdrawal, I made a Best Offer on an '02 R1 complete system, calipers to lever, off a 10K mi. bike. $125, FWIW. This morning it was accepted, so on Monday I'm gonna go pick it up.
Now, what does one do about the heartbreak of mismatched levers? Is there a support group? :scratch_one-s_head:
Yes, mismatched levers are the cornerstone of the modifiers snydrome.
Hi my name is mark and my levers don't match.
Hello, my name is Bob, and my levers don't match either.
Time for a nice clutch master, with adjustable lever and braided lines.
...duh...!!!
But... but... but...
I don't have a problem! I can take it or leave it!
And besides, I only do it now and then... :crazy:
Anyway, it turns out those sneaky Florida guys with their same-named cities in the same-named counties tricked me.
I can't pick up my new brakes on Monday; I'm gonna have to wait for 'em to be delivered.
Andy, BTW, I just rebuilt my clutch master in June - gonna have to get SOME use out of it! ;)
Jake, are those FZ1 clutch and brake m/c's and levers?
You have more problems than can be easily listed. However, fixing mismatching levers isn't a hard one!
And there's lots of use for a part that you repaired and then upgrade.... Desk decoration, doorstop, boat anchor (maybe a little boat...). You could also polish it to a fine end and use it as an ear pick, backscratcher. Or mount it to the wall lever pointed up and have the world's coolest coathook!
Some people have no imagination for this stuff. You can usually tell, they tend to have bikes with mismatched levers.
(The other people are just lazy, we're the ones with the mismatched wheels...)
What? Your WHEELS don't match?.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (http://i30.tinypic.com/2hxo95v.gif)
Quote from: threejagsteve on September 13, 2009, 04:18:08 AM
Jake, are those FZ1 clutch and brake m/c's and levers?
Steve.
Brake master is a 1st gen FZ1, and the clutch is early FJR(not sure what year). I believe the FZ1 does not have a hydraulic clutch. They both have the mirror mounts.
Cheers....
Quote from: threejagsteve on September 13, 2009, 06:56:16 AM
What? Your WHEELS don't match?
Swapping the rear made it faster and cheaper to get tires. Swapping the front would accomplish neither. I'm going for the "functional" look...
Besides, you'd only see the back one unless I stopped! :blum1:
mismatched levers show that you are more interested in how it performs than how it looks :blum2:
Andy give me a call when you get a min. I have a idea for a front wheel conversion
Kim
H 916 421 8600
C 916 801 7506
Quote from: andyb on September 13, 2009, 08:58:57 AM
Swapping the rear made it faster and cheaper to get tires. Swapping the front would accomplish neither. I'm going for the "functional" look...
Wow, I was just having a little fun when I started the unmatched levers stuff... but some people take it so
SERIOUSLY!!! :D
But since Andy said it's OK to have unmatched wheels, I think I'm gonna get these two:
(http://i29.tinypic.com/24cxr2h.jpg)(http://i29.tinypic.com/f9r5eo.jpg)
Pretty spiffy, huh! (http://i26.tinypic.com/10gl3xv.gif)
Quote from: threejagsteve on September 14, 2009, 02:35:05 AM
Quote from: andyb on September 13, 2009, 08:58:57 AM
Swapping the rear made it faster and cheaper to get tires. Swapping the front would accomplish neither. I'm going for the "functional" look...
Wow, I was just having a little fun when I started the unmatched levers stuff... but some people take it so SERIOUSLY!!! :D
But since Andy said it's OK to have unmatched wheels, I think I'm gonna get these two:
(http://i29.tinypic.com/24cxr2h.jpg)(http://i29.tinypic.com/f9r5eo.jpg)
Pretty spiffy, huh! (http://i26.tinypic.com/10gl3xv.gif)
That's already been done... Thanks for playing! :empathy3:
Randy T
Indy