Hey everybody!
Just need to check I've got my shopping list right, so here it goes:
Bike: 1989 FJ1200 with no mods (yet)
Mod 1: FJR 2002 Clutch Master Cylinder = fit, bleed and figure out where the wires go on the clutch switch
Mod 2: FJR 2004 Brake master cylinder with Yamaha R6 2006 blue spot brakes = straight bolt on, no disc change
Mod 3: GSXR750 92 4.5 wheel, axle, rear brake and torque arm = shove it in, couple of spacers on either side of the brake caliper and go
Mod 4: FZR1000 88 to 90 front wheel = bolt it on with original FJ1200 discs and go
Tyres for wheel to be decided. So far I've got the brake and clutch levers, blue spot brakes, and a 92 rear wheel on it's way.
That's it for now....
Quote from: Super_v500 on November 19, 2012, 01:07:25 PM
Hey everybody!
Just need to check I've got my shopping list right, so here it goes:
Bike: 1989 FJ1200 with no mods (yet)
Mod 1: FJR 2002 Clutch Master Cylinder = fit, bleed and figure out where the wires go on the clutch switch
Mod 2: FJR 2004 Brake master cylinder with Yamaha R6 2006 blue spot brakes = straight bolt on, no disc change
Mod 3: GSXR750 92 4.5 wheel, axle, rear brake and torque arm = shove it in, couple of spacers on either side of the brake caliper and go
Mod 4: FZR1000 87-88 front wheel = bolt it on with original FJ1200 discs and go
Tyres for wheel to be decided. So far I've got the brake and clutch levers, blue spot brakes, and a 92 rear wheel on it's way.
That's it for now....
The FZR1000 front wheel is 87-88 , make some dog bones to lift the ass up .
the rear wheel you have chosen will only let you run a 170 rear tire , you need a 5.5 wide rear for the 180 tire .
You'll probably need a new sprocket. I'm not sure that all the GSXR's come with a sprocket that is too large to be of any practical use on the FJ, but the wheel I got did.
I bought a 38 tooth for the rear and kept the stock 17 tooth front. They make 39's and 40's to fit the GSXR wheel also.
Your list shows a 92' GSXR 750 wheel. It is 5.5" and a 180 fits perfect. I did this mod 2 weeks ago, the stock sprocket is 43 teeth. Here is an EBay link to a 38 tooth sprocket. http://www.ebay.com/itm/220637181087?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1279wt_934 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/220637181087?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1279wt_934)
This is the 92' GSXR 750 wheel on my 89'
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/GSXRWheel.jpg)
Fred
I thought it was the 4.5 wheel :dash2:
The 4.5 will go in though? I don't need massive rubber, just the choice of modern rubber front and rear.
Quote from: Mark Olson on November 19, 2012, 01:28:37 PM
Quote from: Super_v500 on November 19, 2012, 01:07:25 PM
....make some dog bones to lift the ass
Why do I need to do this?
You can use a 4.5 or 5.5, IMO 4.5 is better as there is no issuses with chain clearance. The fitting is the same as for both wheels, just make sure you get all your bits from the same bike, I got mine from various places and ended up having to mod a spacer to fit.
I've been using a Suzuki GSXR 4.5x17" rear wheel since Dec '98 in my FJ1200.
Works just fine.
You'll want shorter dogbones if you change wheels because the 55 or 60 series 17" tires are SMALLER in diameter than the OEM 80 series wheel and tire by about an inch. You can do the math for yourself :-)
During these years since fitting this wheel I've used Bridgestone BT57 & BT020, Pirelli MTR04, Metzler Z6, and Michelin PR2 radials. You will be spoilt for choice with the changed size wheel. You'll also be ecstatic over the change in handling feel with the short stiff sidewall radials.
Arnie
Thanks very much!
Wheel arrived today, with a 180 tyre on it! Rim has 4.5 stamped on it, but measuring it across it's 5.5 inches... slightly confused, but don't mind if I have a 180 in the rear...
As for dogbones, I might just do that Honda CBR600 rear shock mod as well... would save on making up some dogbones...
Making dogbones is very easy, so much so that even I can do it without screwing up! There's really only two tips you need:
First, drill both together and stick something through the first hole to ensure that the second one is exactly the same distance on both. Side loads and twisting is bad news in your suspension.
Second, buy extra material and make a couple sets. They don't take much to swap out, so you can experiment and see exactly where you want them
I suppose a third tip is to keep an eye on the length of the sidestand. If you raise things greatly or lower things greatly you'll start running into issues with having no lean or far too much lean when it's parked.
The 4.5 is measured on the inside of the rim, so the largest tyre that should be on it is a 170, the ideal size is 160. When you get to large a trye the side walls are pulled in to far makeing the tyre profile to round resulting in less of a contact patch on the road. Don't go thinking that bigger is better 'cause it aint.
Quote from: andyb on November 21, 2012, 08:14:00 AM
Making dogbones is very easy, so much so that even I can do it without screwing up! There's really only two tips you need:
First, drill both together and stick something through the first hole to ensure that the second one is exactly the same distance on both. Side loads and twisting is bad news in your suspension.
Second, buy extra material and make a couple sets. They don't take much to swap out, so you can experiment and see exactly where you want them
I suppose a third tip is to keep an eye on the length of the sidestand. If you raise things greatly or lower things greatly you'll start running into issues with having no lean or far too much lean when it's parked.
Forth tip:- if you make the dog bones to short and raise the rear to much the chain will end up running on the slider at the front of the swinging arm, under harsh acceleration it will not allow the suspension to work propely because of the tension being created by the chain running on the s/arm
Quote from: Grey runner on November 21, 2012, 09:24:58 AM
The 4.5 is measured on the inside of the rim, so the largest tyre that should be on it is a 170, the ideal size is 160. When you get to large a trye the side walls are pulled in to far makeing the tyre profile to round resulting in less of a contact patch on the road. Don't go thinking that bigger is better 'cause it aint.
oh , yes it is! :good2: you can get the best deal on tires with the 120/17 front and 180/17 rear. they sell them in pairs .
I put a 180 on my GSXR 5.5 rear, a Dunlop Q2, it hit the chain, the chain machined off about 3/16 to 1/4 inch of the side of the tire by the time I replaced it with a 170. Now I have the chain almost hitting the tire and I can put the chain guard back on. If you don't spend much time in the corners then you might get away with a 180 on a 4.5. But the tire will be pinched and the intended profile (or performance) will not be achieved. Bigger might look better, but when bigger is flopping around like cold custard in an old sock when you need performance, nawwww. :nea:
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 21, 2012, 11:43:12 AM
I put a 180 on my GSXR 5.5 rear, a Dunlop Q2, it hit the chain, the chain machined off about 3/16 to 1/4 inch of the side of the tire by the time I replaced it with a 170. Now I have the chain almost hitting the tire and I can put the chain guard back on. If you don't spend much time in the corners then you might get away with a 180 on a 4.5. But the tire will be pinched and the intended profile (or performance) will not be achieved. Bigger might look better, but when bigger is flopping around like cold custard in an old sock when you need performance, nawwww. :nea:
run the pilot powers and they don't hit the chain.
Monkey , ain't you always in the back of the pack? :biggrin:
Quote from: Mark Olson on November 21, 2012, 11:52:14 AM
Monkey , ain't you always in the back of the pack? :biggrin:
I was during the Napa run and most of the 2012 WCR, it don't bother me, I am not chasing the leader, I'm riding my FJ and having fun.... :yahoo:
Now now boys, play nicely :biggrin:
Mark can jab all he likes, once you attend a rally with someone you learn that its all part of the fun.... Besides, I like to sling the shit myself once in a while so I take my lumps when they happen.
it's all good fun . who do ya think named monkey "the red power ranger" :wacko1:
Quote from: Mark Olson on November 21, 2012, 12:51:56 PM
it's all good fun . who do ya think named monkey "the red power ranger" :wacko1:
And I damn near fell off my chair laughing as hard as I was when you posted that.... You just call em' as you see em'...
I'll change the tyre to a 170 once I've burnt it out... don't want the hassle of tyre clearances, and if I want to go out scratching I'll use the blade.
We should make a listing of tires that hit and don't hit the chain, on 4.5, 5.0, and 5.5 wheels. Be a buncha work probably.
I know that a Shinko 003 170 hits the chain veeerry lightly with a 5.0 wheel, but that's not a tire anyone should run on the street!
On the same wheel, I think all the other 170's I've used cleared (Avon AV, Bridgestone BT57, BT020). Haven't tried a 180, not enough wheel for it and no real need.
Incidentally, many places that sell tires and do combo specials for the 120/70 + 180/55 will also have a special on 120/70 + 160/70, as it's a fairly common combination on older 600's and SV650's.
I think with the 5.5" wheel and the 180 tire, any tire clearance problems may be variances by the different tire manufacturers. I put a Metzler Roadtec Z6, 180/55/17 on and have no clearance problem on either side.
Either way you go, 4.5" or 5.5" wheel. 170 or 180 tire, The handling greatly improves and gives you a huge selection of good tires to choose from.
Fred