Found these whilst googling about today and having just put in an LED bulb in the parking light (only a couple of pounds in cost), i was wondering if anyone was using these, or knew what the Lumen rating our standard indicator bulbes are! Was thinking they may be a nice little stocking filler from the wife or kids
www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/pr/581-led-extreme-py21w/ (http://www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/pr/581-led-extreme-py21w/)
www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/pr/382-led-canbus-bulbs/ (http://www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/pr/382-led-canbus-bulbs/)
Not sure if these are the right fitment but you get the general idea!
They may not flash correctly, some (most?) LED lamps have a very high resistance compared to incandescent lamps, and the flasher circuit is dependent on the resistance to make it work. Try the ones you purchased for the parking lamp in place of the signals and see...
Quote from: Dads_FJ on November 13, 2012, 12:48:40 PM
They may not flash correctly, some (most?) LED lamps have a very high resistance compared to incandescent lamps, and the flasher circuit is dependent on the resistance to make it work. Try the ones you purchased for the parking lamp in place of the signals and see...
You can add a small resister if the light does not have one built in. I have already tested this on my 86' with LEDs I will install for turn signals.
Quote from: Dads_FJ on November 13, 2012, 12:48:40 PM
They may not flash correctly, some (most?) LED lamps have a very high resistance compared to incandescent lamps, and the flasher circuit is dependent on the resistance to make it work. Try the ones you purchased for the parking lamp in place of the signals and see...
Good thinking batman! Worth a try!
[/quote]
You can add a small resister if the light does not have one built in. I have already tested this on my 86' with LEDs I will install for turn signals.
[/quote]
When you say small resistor, what sort of size is that? And where abouts did you get behind behind fairing to house it?
Quote from: nurse on November 13, 2012, 01:26:55 PM
When you say small resistor, what sort of size is that? And where abouts did you get behind behind fairing to house it?
I have not mounted them yet but I hooked one up to the rear indicator light make sure it would work. I will have to look at what size and rating it is and post it later. All you need to do is short the positive to ground with the resister. The resister takes very little current allowing good voltage to the LED and provides just enough resistance to fool the flash module. I also did a burn in test with the resister and LED connected to a 12V power supply for 10 hours continuous with no problems with heat from the resistor. And since it flashes and only some of the time I feel it is very safe solution.
I have LED signal bulbs installed. The rear ones are higher quality and have a small circuit board built in, flash like normal. The front ones are cheaper and cause the signals to flash real fast. I have 25 Watt 8 ohm inline resistors ordered that I will install in the front signal wiring. They should be here in a few days. I will let you know how they work.
Fred
you will need resistors otherwise they will flash fast.
went through the whole LED, SMD and HID conversion on my sprinter...
HID headlights, SMD sidelights and SMD indicators...
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/313563_10150403022220827_1390610822_n.jpg)
HID reverse lights, SMD brake lights, SMD rear lights, SMD indicators, SMD numberplate lights
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/385034_10150403022780827_506482002_n.jpg)
the HIDs on my transit were probably a bit too bright... :good2:
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/294265_10150288427335827_5012901_n.jpg)
this is what 168 SMD side repeaters look like... :lol:
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/383060_10150392225280827_1264947746_n.jpg)
Damn... I'd love to have a Sprinter. :good2:
Backstreethero stop it your burning my eyes. Bloody white van man! :blum2: Well at risk of moving this from general enquiry thread to a mod, aside from removing the entire front fairing to get to the back of the indicator assembly, how the heck are you gonna get the resistor back there. Am I missing a cunning trick to get easy access? If it as a total strip down job I will probably just go with the silver osram bulbs that flash orange!
haha i do apologize :lol:, they are great for driving, not great for being an oncoming vehicle...
with regards to fairings... i can't really comment due to not having any but the resisters are only small. mine are slightly smaller than a disposable lighter.
Quote from: nurse on November 13, 2012, 04:23:13 PM
Backstreethero stop it your burning my eyes. Bloody white van man! :blum2: Well at risk of moving this from general enquiry thread to a mod, aside from removing the entire front fairing to get to the back of the indicator assembly, how the heck are you gonna get the resistor back there. Am I missing a cunning trick to get easy access? If it as a total strip down job I will probably just go with the silver osram bulbs that flash orange!
Taking the upper fairing off is supereasy (on an 86 anyway) I've had mine off and on so many times putting the GSXR front end on mine. I could probably do it in 5min. The hardest part is getting the push pins out of the front of the scoops.
You should make this a full mod thread I'm interested in the details. (popcorn)
Quote from: Dads_FJ on November 13, 2012, 12:48:40 PM
They may not flash correctly, some (most?) LED lamps have a very high resistance compared to incandescent lamps, and the flasher circuit is dependent on the resistance to make it work. Try the ones you purchased for the parking lamp in place of the signals and see...
It's not so much the resistance value as it is the much lower current draw of an LED. The standard flasher uses a bimetallic element that depends on the current thru it to heat it and make it "bend" open... There are electronic flashers available from most auto parts stores that can be retro-fitted to work with LED lamps.
Quote from: RichBaker on November 13, 2012, 08:06:47 PM
It's not so much the resistance value as it is the much lower current draw of an LED. The standard flasher uses a bimetallic element that depends on the current thru it to heat it and make it "bend" open... There are electronic flashers available from most auto parts stores that can be retro-fitted to work with LED lamps.
I thought it was the fact that an LED if measured is OPEN, just gas between the contact points, just like a blown bulb, and zero continuity..... The resistor fixes the problem with the flasher unit. Does that mean that even small rocks can't float????
The resistors are used to increase the current flowing thru the flasher's bimetallic element. An electronic flasher uses a timing circuit to turn the current on and off, it is NOT dependant on the amount of current flowing...
A bimetallic device uses the amount of current flowing thru a circuit to heat the element. As it heats, the 2 metals expand at different rates, therefore causing the bimetallic element to bend away from the unfixed pole, therefore creating an open. When open, it cools and bends back to the unfixed pole, and closing the circuit, and the cycle begins all over....
Since LEDs use MUCH less current, the bimetallic element never opens, and the signlas don't flash. If you've ever used a trailer with the standard flasher, you probably noticed that the flash rate was much faster when the lights were connected. This is because the current draw is higher and the bimetal element heats up faster...
Are we talking about the FJ flash unit? When the circuit is OPEN (blown bulb) it flashes faster so we know a problem exists. Add a resistor and the flash rate is back to normal...
I should have the resistors tomorrow. I will install them and add the results here. Along with whether or not I can wire them in without removing the main fairing.
Fred
Quote from: RichBaker on November 13, 2012, 08:22:25 PM
The resistors are used to increase the current flowing thru the flasher's bimetallic element. An electronic flasher uses a timing circuit to turn the current on and off, it is NOT dependant on the amount of current flowing...
A bimetallic device uses the amount of current flowing thru a circuit to heat the element. As it heats, the 2 metals expand at different rates, therefore causing the bimetallic element to bend away from the unfixed pole, therefore creating an open. When open, it cools and bends back to the unfixed pole, and closing the circuit, and the cycle begins all over....
Since LEDs use MUCH less current, the bimetallic element never opens, and the signlas don't flash. If you've ever used a trailer with the standard flasher, you probably noticed that the flash rate was much faster when the lights were connected. This is because the current draw is higher and the bimetal element heats up faster...
Do you know if the FJ incorporate a bimetalllic style or an electronic style?
Quote from: Dads_FJ on November 13, 2012, 09:02:19 PM
Quote from: RichBaker on November 13, 2012, 08:22:25 PM
The resistors are used to increase the current flowing thru the flasher's bimetallic element. An electronic flasher uses a timing circuit to turn the current on and off, it is NOT dependant on the amount of current flowing...
A bimetallic device uses the amount of current flowing thru a circuit to heat the element. As it heats, the 2 metals expand at different rates, therefore causing the bimetallic element to bend away from the unfixed pole, therefore creating an open. When open, it cools and bends back to the unfixed pole, and closing the circuit, and the cycle begins all over....
Since LEDs use MUCH less current, the bimetallic element never opens, and the signlas don't flash. If you've ever used a trailer with the standard flasher, you probably noticed that the flash rate was much faster when the lights were connected. This is because the current draw is higher and the bimetal element heats up faster...
Do you know if the FJ incorporate a bimetalllic style or an electronic style?
Not sure, the way it acts with LEDs, I've always assumed it was bimetallic.... To be sure, I'd have to open one up. Not going to do that to my functional unit, though...
Quote from: aviationfred on November 13, 2012, 08:52:02 PM
I should have the resistors tomorrow. I will install them and add the results here. Along with whether or not I can wire them in without removing the main fairing.
Fred
Did you manage to have a go at doing the resistors? Don't forget to post up and let us know!
I just installed led turn signals today, they suck. put load resistors on the back pair, and they flash at a good rate but only 4 of the sixteen leds light up. its these here...
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Turn-Signal-LED-SUZUKI-Dual-Sport-Motorcycle-dirt-bike-supermoto-light-blinker-/00/$(KGrHqF,!i0E1MgCLM5GBNYJQJB7nQ~~_12.JPG)
So kind of late but I found the resisters that I used that passed the long burn-in test. Radio Shack 271-1101, 1/2 watt 10-Ohm, used 2 in parallel.
Just taking the piss,, liquid electrical tape , heated seat ect ect ,, seen an apprentice sparky use the stuff on a live fire panel, 24v , arked out the tube when applying the the stuff and that shit burns , quickly ,,
Quote from: fj11.5 on November 30, 2012, 12:10:17 AM
Just taking the piss,, liquid electrical tape , heated seat ect ect ,, seen an apprentice sparky use the stuff on a live fire panel, 24v , arked out the tube when applying the the stuff and that shit burns , quickly ,,
The liquid electrical tape in the uncured condition will be rich with solvent. Depending on the solvent can be quick to burn. Once the tape dries, solvent evaporated, it will be no more flammable then regular electrical tape.
(popcorn)
Ok folks, quick update. Have bought theses
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300811936141?var=600065252626&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300811936141?var=600065252626&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
And these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360449150191?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360449150191?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
Have fitted one of the bulbs and they are seriously bright!! I mean bright like you could use them as a headlight! The flash rate with out resistors is ok, I could probably live with it at a push. But I will install the resistors at the weekend and see what the flash rate is like, have a trial and see what I think works best. I will let you know you guys know what I think and post up pictures if I can.
Nurse,
Those are some seriously expensive and extremely bright lights.
Won't be anyone able to say they didn't see you,
unless they're now claiming to have been blinded by your lights.
Just out of interest, are these things legal to use on public roads?
Arnie
From my observation, any lighting product that provides better visibility for a motorcycle is usually considered illegal by some official department.
However, I will NOT stop using my 80/100W headlight bulbs in the FJs or the HID light I just installed in my FZ.
DavidR.
QuoteFrom my observation, any lighting product that provides better visibility for a motorcycle is usually considered illegal by some official department.
However, I will NOT stop using my 80/100W headlight bulbs in the FJs or the HID light I just installed in my FZ.
DavidR.
Troublemaker :biggrin:
Quote from: Arnie on December 05, 2012, 06:20:21 PM
Nurse,
Those are some seriously expensive and extremely bright lights.
Won't be anyone able to say they didn't see you,
unless they're now claiming to have been blinded by your lights.
Just out of interest, are these things legal to use on public roads?
Arnie
Well I guess if you are comparing to normal filament bulbs they are a bit steep, but as far as stand alone led bulbs go they are only and extra £5 each compared to the more common led bulbs i have seen all over ebay and they are quoted to last about 50,000 hours so it should need to change them in my life time, but as said they are bright. They just about fit in the Givi rack indicator housing, they are a bit longer and the fitting may need some fiddling/modding but I will see over the weekend and let you know.
As for legality there are no regulations on brightness of bulbs they just have to be clearly visible and flash at an appropriate rate. Beside what policeman in their right mind would believe "honestly officer one second he was signalling left the next thing I knew everything went dark, I was blinded by his indicators!" I imagine the officers response will be something along the lines of "right you are sir, if you wouldn't mind blowing into this here road side breath tester I'm sure we can sort this out"
Have fitted resistors and bulbs. Resistors did the job perfect, flash rate is spot on. I mounted then on the rear frame under the sadle, just where the recess is for you to strap stuff to. i figured as it is directly open to the air outside as it would help keep it cool if needed.
Bulbs were superbright. Please note the use of the past tense. The side LEDs lasted all off five minutes before they packed up on the first bulb and the second bulb was even less than that. I am not impressed. I will post them back first thing Monday. The LEDs on the end of the bulb are very bright and continue ok but looking at the packet they are not cree LEDs as advertised. The writing I think is Japanese but it could be Chinese, I don't read either, but it didn't look like the normal Chinese you see.
These bulbs are also on eBay described as Epistar bulbs. Buyer beware!!
Have found and ordered some replacements not quite as bright or as expensive but hopefully an improvement over stock
Ok folks, quick update on this one. Resistors are a huge pain in the back side and cost the same as a new LED friendly relay unit, it is really easy to swap and fixes all four indicators meaning no need to mess about trying to access behind the front fairing. Also two resistors cost the same as one relay so its cheaper too!
The original indicator bulbs i first tried where the brightest, i have since been back to the vendor who swears blind mine have been the only set to fail and go back, so i may try these again. At the moment i am using a pair of 37 smd LED bulbs (£8) which were great value for the brightness. Not the brightest available but as far as lumens per pound goes they were good value. If you are interested i will post up a link. I also got some thin hobby-mirrored plastic sheet (the type of stuff you use in model dolls houses) and fashioned a pair of reflectors as the GIVI unit has no reflector. This made a signifincant difference to the rear indicator brightness and for the sake of half hours fidling is well worth it. The plastic was about £3 from ebay.
Tried taking pictures but they came out poorly so you will just have to take my word for it. But the LED relay (loads on ebay is the easiest and most cost effective route).