I have spoken with randy about the problem, and im going to post a pic of the floats. notice the direction the tang is bent. the measurment taken in the pic was 21mm,
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8481/8168170733_c301fe62ed_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8168170733/)
DSC00348 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8168170733/#) by goetzjordan (http://www.flickr.com/people/87853494@N07/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/8168170063_afe46868eb_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8168170063/)
DSC00349 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8168170063/#) by goetzjordan (http://www.flickr.com/people/87853494@N07/), on Flickr
diaphragms are sound, boots are not cracked, air mix screw set at 3 turns out, which did smooth out the idle.
Quote from: Goetz on November 08, 2012, 06:33:24 PM
... and im going to post a pic of the floats. notice the direction the tang is bent. the measurment taken in the pic was 21mm,
That is the incorrect location to measure. You need to be measuring at the step on the other side of the float where the rounded portion starts. Portion B in the photo below and I cant tell from your photo, but to the gasket surface as indicated.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y177/Lotsokids/FJ1200/Float_adj_1.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y177/Lotsokids/FJ1200/Float_adj_2.jpg)
The tab should be bent the other direction like the photo above...
Randy - RPM
im measuring from the lower portion, not the raised lip. it that right? in any case, sounds like im 4-5mm low
Quote from: Goetz on November 08, 2012, 06:44:21 PM
im measuring from the lower portion, not the raised lip. it that right? in any case, sounds like im 4-5mm low
Yes, the gasket surface.
Technically you are too high on the float level when based off of the bowl volume. I am going to say it might be more than your estimation based on the arch of the float through the travel and the location you have been measuring.
Randy - RPM
Oh!! Now you've done it!!! I see another Monkey Made Tool (MMT) here. I need to open my carbs and take a few measurements to finalize the shape. Then open up the CAD app to document it and get some made. I can't help it, my mind is wired for this shit...
just adjusted that one and re measured from correct position. I was as 16mm. wouldnt that make it insanely rich, like, when the butterfly valves opened, gas flooded it?
going to go fix the other three and see how she runs. setting em all at 23mm.
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 08, 2012, 06:54:15 PM
Oh!! Now you've done it!!! I see another Monkey Made Tool (MMT) here. I need to open my carbs and take a few measurements to finalize the shape. Then open up the CAD app to document it and get some made. I can't help it, my mind is wired for this shit...
There is already a tool or two.
Internal Float Level Gauge (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3AFLGT)
External Float Level Gauge (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3AFLH)
Randy - RPM
Quote from: Goetz on November 08, 2012, 06:54:20 PM
...wouldnt that make it insanely rich, like, when the butterfly valves opened, gas flooded it?
Yep, there should have been fuel visible flooding around the e-tubes at idle.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on November 08, 2012, 07:03:12 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 08, 2012, 06:54:15 PM
Oh!! Now you've done it!!! I see another Monkey Made Tool (MMT) here. I need to open my carbs and take a few measurements to finalize the shape. Then open up the CAD app to document it and get some made. I can't help it, my mind is wired for this shit...
There is already a tool or two.
Internal Float Level Gauge (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3AFLGT)
External Float Level Gauge (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3AFLH)
Randy - RPM
Killjoy..... :cray:
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 08, 2012, 07:05:13 PM
Quote from: racerrad8 on November 08, 2012, 07:03:12 PM
There is already a tool or two.
Internal Float Level Gauge (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3AFLGT)
External Float Level Gauge (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3AFLH)
Randy - RPM
Killjoy..... :cray:
Well, now you have more time to polish...
Randy - RPM
ok, time to annoy the neighbors! lets see if this does it
Quote from: racerrad8 on November 08, 2012, 07:07:54 PM
Well, now you have more time to polish...
Randy - RPM
Polish???? Polish??? With 365 days a year to ride why would I waste time to polish??? I knock off the bugs and ride....
it just occurred to me that old carburated bikes must save riders a fortune in gas and tires...
im about to light the bike on fire, but i cant, cause itsmy only transpo in a week. so, idled at 4krpm on choke and the left two exhaust headers turned RED they got so hot. thats a lean issue, yeah? what would make it so lean? still dies when ANY throttle is given. :flag_of_truce:
also, when i give it throttle, the carbs make a kind of gasping noise as the engine dies.
Quote from: Goetz on November 08, 2012, 07:58:47 PM
also, when i give it throttle, the carbs make a kind of gasping noise as the engine dies.
That'l be the gnomes, they must be getting tired.
"inside each carb are thousands of tiny gnomes"
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7805.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7805.0)
(popcorn)
Tomorrow i put the dynojet kits that came with the bike back in. if that fixes the problem, then i will get to go to work. if it doesn't, i will buy new shoes.
Quote from: Goetz on November 08, 2012, 07:53:28 PM
im about to light the bike on fire, but i cant, cause itsmy only transpo in a week. so, idled at 4krpm on choke and the left two exhaust headers turned RED they got so hot. thats a lean issue, yeah? what would make it so lean? still dies when ANY throttle is given. :flag_of_truce:
The headers might be turning red due to a rich condition and the fuel is still burning as it exits the head and down the header.
Have you vacuum sync'ed them yet?
Are those the only two cylinders firing?
Or are those two cylinders lean or rich due to throttle plate angle.
Also, like we discussed...If those plastic pieces are not on the needles, then the mixture is going to be lean and might be the cause of the dying at the crack of the throttle.
If all else fails, drop them in the mail tomorrow, send them priority mail and I will have them Monday or Tuesday. I can go through them, make sure everything is right and head them back to you the next day. If it all works out right you will have them before the following weekend and you will be ready to ride.
Randy - RPM
will do. the plastic caps are on the mix screws, i cant get it to idle well enough to sync it. the choke now shoots it up to 4k with loads of popping and farting
i replaced the exhaust gaskets, would that affect this? no.. nevermind, stupid thought. Its firing on all 4 w/ choke. shoots up to 4k. both sides turn cherry red in about 20 seconds. batt is on charger now, looked like i could see gas flowing up from the e tube when it was trying to start. idk
Im going to put the orig e tubes back and if that fixes it ill call it a day.
After reading the posts about float height and where to measure from,, just for fun I ripped the carbs from effie and adjusted to randy,s specs , ( b ) the curved part of the float ,, I never noticed much difference in performance , guessing fuel consumption would be lower ?? Will adjust the other 2 Fj,s the same, , I had previously used this method
so, thismorning, i put the old e tubes back in for laughs, ya know. hahaha. And i noticed, as i was starting the bike, that the starter was making a lot of noise, like, it was engaged as the bike was idling. start button was binding. gonna wait for it to cool down before i start it again but wouldnt THAT cause this issue? some sort of electical failsafe to keep you from driving around with the starter engaged?
If you were not in such a hurry I could loan you my stock carbs so you could send yours to Randy and let him do his magic on them. Hope you get it sorted out. :scratch_one-s_head:
so, got it to idle well enough to sync them, synced and still dies at throttle. using sync-pro manometer style tuner. then i realized i had only replaced one intake o ring, took all the boots off and cleaned em, no cracks, new o rings, (probably should re sync) still dies at throttle. I am getting rather proficient at tearing the thing down though. Im done. Monkey, I may take you up on that, I have to have this thing moving by next Saturday, my friend will be back home (he's loaning me his vehicle while hes away) and ill be sol.
how tight should the clamps on the intake boots/carbs be? completely closed?
If the boots are new, maybe ten mm gap ,, or around 5 mm. Gap if old ,, guessing if they are clamped shut, it may pinch the rubber and cause issues (popcorn)
i just mailed my problem to california, let an expert have a look :wacko2: :wacko2: :wacko2: :wacko2:
Quote from: Goetz on November 09, 2012, 03:24:41 PM
i just mailed my problem to california, let an expert have a look :wacko2: :wacko2: :wacko2: :wacko2:
Time / money well spent. :good:
Beats driving yourself insane :good2:,,
which isexactly what i was doing. Bike ran ok before i started messing with it. In the modders spirit of "if it aint broke, fix it till it is" I decided to have a look in the carbs. Orings were rotted, dynojet kit installed. I have found out that I know way less than i think. But more than i used to. All in all, a good character building exercise :dash2:
Quote from: Goetz on November 09, 2012, 03:24:41 PM
i just mailed my problem to california, let an expert have a look :wacko2: :wacko2: :wacko2: :wacko2:
You will be very happy with Randy's work.
Reslved!!! Just got my carbs back from RPM. 1, they look clean enough to eat off of. Throttle response is great from get er going to kookaloo range. All i want for Christmas is an open stretch of highway! I still cant get the front end to lift much, tho. I can hit 100 mph in 3rd but no loft. (I am running +2 rear sprocket)
Quote from: Goetz on December 15, 2012, 07:44:32 PM
Reslved!!! Just got my carbs back from RPM. 1, they look clean enough to eat off of. Throttle response is great from get er going to kookaloo range. All i want for Christmas is an open stretch of highway! I still cant get the front end to lift much, tho. I can hit 100 mph in 3rd but no loft. (I am running +2 rear sprocket)
long wheelbase bikes are not really wheelie prone ....and a stock fj only has maybe 110 hp (probably less) at the back wheel .
that being said the FJ will wheelie.... it just aint easy and its not going to happen without some clutch work and possibly a good strong bounce.
mine only got wheelie happy after the 1349cc Brutus engine.....then I'm on the other side and wound up taking teeth off the rear sprocket to stop it from happening when i didnt want it to.( which was all the time :good2:)
Be careful what you wish for.....
KOokaloo!
Quote from: Goetz on December 15, 2012, 07:44:32 PM
Reslved!!! Just got my carbs back from RPM. 1, they look clean enough to eat off of. Throttle response is great from get er going to kookaloo range. All i want for Christmas is an open stretch of highway! I still cant get the front end to lift much, tho. I can hit 100 mph in 3rd but no loft. (I am running +2 rear sprocket)
Fit a 47 tooth rear sprocket from a FZR1000 and that will solve your non-wheelie problem. Had one on for a short time after I did the FZR wheel conversion and had no problem to loft the front end in either first or second gear. The down side was that it burnt fuel at a great rate on longer rides. :i_am_so_happy: Regards, Pete.
I can live with no wheelie, rather have fuwl economy.