ok so i guess this is where i should be now. i have completely cleaned the carbs. reassembled them, and started the idle mixture screws ( the small ones on top) to 1.5 turns from shut. and the sync? screws the three in between the carbs to 2.5. it runs and idles but still popping and poor throttle response, and slow to recover to idle from rev. i did just add a fuel filter between the tank and carbs because the tank had a bunch crap in it from not having a gas cap. the pulse lines are disconnected right now, i will cut new ones tomorrow and hook them up where they go, i was told one goes to the tank and the other to the ign? maybe i didnt read that right, but if someone could post a pic of were the #2 line goes that would be awesome! are there some vacuum lines im missing or something? why would it still have a poor throttle response, and be backfiring? could it be in need of new plugs and wires? the manifolds between the carbs and jugs looked to be in good shape, not misshapen or cracked or anything so i would imagine they are not the problem... im about at a loss
Quote from: minitruckeratheart on October 23, 2012, 09:12:08 PM
poor throttle response, and be backfiring?
You are not even close to synchronized on the carbs... there's no "2.5 turns" rule for this adjustment. Try this at your own risk (may lose some hairs on your fingers):
1. Get running at idle with carb intakes exposed (tank off of course),
2. Hold 3 fingers together with an 1/8th inch gap or so between fingers. The most important thing is to do a repeatable spacing... keep that in mind.
3. Place your 3 finger "gauge" over each carb for a couple of seconds, palm of hand away from carb. If you can feel a difference in the flow (you'll be surprised, but you can unless the gaps between your fingers are too big), adjust it out with the balance screws.
4. Sequence of adjustment is important... 3 screws and 4 carbs means you'll run out of screws if you do it wrong... do the outside pairs first, then the inside pair (1&2, 3&4, then 2&3).
5. you have just done a course balance that will get you through to a decent running state (defined as off throttle popping, but no or minimal backfires).
6. If it didn't work, try harder. If you really can't judge the airflow at all, ask a friend to try. Most people can "feel" their way into decent running with this coarse approach.
7. Now get a tool to help you dial in a fine balance... you'll be amazed!
Frank
BTW - you lose the hairs when it backfires from the cyl where your hand is... can scare a little pee out of you the first few times as well, but never any real damage.
Frank
The hose off the #1 cylinder goes to a vacuum petcock.
The hose on the #2 cylinder goes to a port on the ignition box.
The other 2 vacuum ports are blocked off.
All 4 vacuum ports are used for synching the carbs. The "2-1/2 turns out" on the synch screws has probably put you WAY off and any further adjustment without accurately synching the carbs with a proper gauge is just wasting your time. I've never seen that in any of our instructions.
1/8 turn on a synch screw is a SIGNIFICANT adjustment. Randomly setting them as you've done makes any further tuning impossible.
Fix one thing at a time and move on from there.
Oh, and GET/BUY a MANUAL and start reading it!
DavidR.
well i read somewhere 2.5 turns from seated. maybe it was the idle mixture screws... i dont know. i guess ill look into a diy manometer. not spend 100 bucks right now on one. ill try the course sync approach first. it was pretty dark when we got the carbs back together and oil back in and everything. just wanted to hear it run. ill have more day light on the morrow.
would of been the mix screws 2.5 from seated ,, should run much better with the vaccume hoses connected , most likely that's the crap response and popping , along with the synch
HOLY $H!T guys! hooked up the vacuum, and did a sight sync, held the carbs up and set all the butterflys to have the same amount of light as the #3 carb comming thru the bottom. and WOW! let me repeat my self WWOOWW :dance: ITS RUNS AWESOME! gonna build a manometer soon and sync them proper, but for right now three days down and it went from uhhh r u sure it runs to hold on to your butt... I cant thank you guys here enough for the great info and help! this thing is way more then i expected! well worth the money. no to get it painted, and a head light. i think im about to pull the stock cluster out of the fairing and see if i cant mount it up some how, just til i get some aftermarket gauges.. but i guess that all needs to be in the mods section thanks again guys!
Quote from: minitruckeratheart on October 24, 2012, 12:16:05 PM
HOLY $H!T guys! hooked up the vacuum, and did a sight sync, held the carbs up and set all the butterflys to have the same amount of light as the #3 carb comming thru the bottom. and WOW! let me repeat my self WWOOWW :dance: ITS RUNS AWESOME! gonna build a manometer soon and sync them proper, but for right now three days down and it went from uhhh r u sure it runs to hold on to your butt... I cant thank you guys here enough for the great info and help! this thing is way more then i expected! well worth the money. no to get it painted, and a head light. i think im about to pull the stock cluster out of the fairing and see if i cant mount it up some how, just til i get some aftermarket gauges.. but i guess that all needs to be in the mods section thanks again guys!
They dont run to good without the vacum lines hooked up. :rofl:
run like they mean it when not sucking air they don't need, , what's wrong with the fairing, , trashed ,, :scratch_one-s_head:
yeah 1/2 was gone when i got it, the rest was broken in many places, poorly painted, or other wise not worth keeping. it looks much better now in my eyes. now thats not to say if it had all the fairing to begin with i wouldnt have tried to clean it up and just paint it. but i did kinda want a streetfighter anyways. now i have one. and i got less then 1k in a big bore super-bike streetfighter. thatll out run my buddies gsxr 750 down the street, and my bike dont even run right yet :rofl2: and its almost 15 years older! it pulles much harder then that 750. he said man that sounds like a 600, then he rode it. wow dude that things pretty quick. but more about the turn lights, i did away with the extensions for the turn signals and mounted them closer up to the frame. i cant even see the turn lights in front now the handle bars hide them. i used the bolt and mount for the front faring bracket and the rear drop bracket for the tail lights and they look better then just hanging out there in no where. im sure it looked better on a bike with fairing, but this one has no fairing... now... and im cheap, to cheap to buy some flush mount turn signals. not when i have working ones. now to get the gauge cluster mounted, i got it pulled from the fairing. im thinking just zip tie. but i dont know yet. maybe ill try and jb weld up me bracket... ya know i should call them and see if i can get them to sponsor the bike! :rofl2: ya ever heard the expression if ya cant duct it F@*K it. well i feel that way about JB WELD.
yeah I checked out the indicator pics, look much better, but how did you mount the back ones so high, dousnt she have the covers below the seat , as they cover the original bracket top mounting holes , , for an older bike they sure surprise a few later bike owners, , spoke with a mate yesterday , sold his gsxr, , told him to buy an Fj , answer was what's that and who makes it , thought mine was a newer bike , one in my profile pic started out like yours in red and white , 84 ,, with trashed fairing, got sick if trying to repair it , couldn't find one at the time., , should be easy enough to mount the gauges ,, send an email to jb weld, telling them how much you use it, may send you some free stuff :good2:
the tail lights are mounted to the half hole that the fairing bushing was sitting in all fairings have been removed, fenders as well. brackets too. the bolt that mounts the lights is still the same one just cut down what 5-6inches. i think it looks much better and with a nice coat of krylon it will look killer. well with a round head light... the stock one will have to work for short time but winter is comming so ill have plenty of time for more mods. i just wanna ride. 2 more buddies picked up bikes recently and i feel left out.
should look great when your finished, , mind you they are never finished, ( 7 yrs ) so far :lol: , , how much was she mate, much better bargain once they run right
700 bucks. worth every penny. very happy with it. im trying to talk my buddy out of his 2000 cagva gran canyon. he hasnt rode it in years and after coming back from iraq he hasnt been able to ride. but ill be happy with this one. maybe it will be the one i keep. i have owned a few and sold or traded them off pretty quick. 2 kantunas... one f4i and a shadow 750. i worked on all of them, but this is by far the most fun bike ive owned. and i really like the streetfighter look going on. my uncle says he has a chrome round headlight from a tractor i can have. i heard from a buddy that i could using scotch bright and panty hose for air filters. and i think im going to cut down the the exhaust. i have a plan with some steel wool for baffling for a little restriction. but thats all for the mod thread. when i get some pics of the bike with the front turns and maybe ill start a thread in the mods section.
i have about 40 bucks in gas, hose clamps, oil and maybe a couple other things but the jb weld carb cleaner cleaning rags and all the other stuff i have used were laying around. so 700 for the bike +40 to get it running. i think im doing alright. get some paint make a manometer, and figure something out about a license plate holder all ill be ready to rock! oh head light and these gauges.
Early KATANAS :scratch_one-s_head:LOVE those ,, should of kept the f4i rear shock, will fit the Fj fairly easily
Quote from: minitruckeratheart on October 25, 2012, 12:28:35 AM
i heard from a buddy that i could using scotch bright and panty hose for air filters.
Damn. I guess the Uni Pods were a waste of money. :dash2:
Quote from: not a lib on October 25, 2012, 08:45:43 AM
Quote from: minitruckeratheart on October 25, 2012, 12:28:35 AM
i heard from a buddy that i could using scotch bright and panty hose for air filters.
Damn. I guess the Uni Pods were a waste of money. :dash2:
Might work as well as K&N filters, but UNIs keep the crap out. I ditched my K&N and airbox and put UNI pods on last week. :good2:
Quote from: minitruckeratheart on October 25, 2012, 12:28:35 AM
i heard from a buddy that i could using scotch bright and panty hose for air filters.
Works a treat if you want to keep small furry animals and rocks out of your carbs, but not on the stuff that kills your motor.
Noel
well anything has to be better then nothing, and the bike came with no filters and a 3 dollar fix with scotch bright and panty hose well if all it does is keep the furry creatures and rocks out thats ok. ya know i have seen more then one car at the drag track use panty hose over velocity stacks, i would think if you add a layer of scotch bright over them it might make a decent filter... well i guess for a couple bucks ill find out soon. ima get some pics and start a mods thread.
Quote from: minitruckeratheart on October 25, 2012, 10:06:15 AM
...i would think if you add a layer of scotch bright over them it might make a decent filter...
Scotchbrite is an abrasive product and should not be used as a filter material...
Unless you are not worried about excessive internal wear of your engine.
You are better off running window screen than Scotchbrite.
But really, you should invest in the proper air filters.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: minitruckeratheart on October 25, 2012, 10:06:15 AM
well anything has to be better then nothing, and the bike came with no filters and a 3 dollar fix with scotch bright and panty hose well if all it does is keep the furry creatures and rocks out thats ok. ya know i have seen more then one car at the drag track use panty hose over velocity stacks, i would think if you add a layer of scotch bright over them it might make a decent filter... well i guess for a couple bucks ill find out soon. ima get some pics and start a mods thread.
What works at the strip isn't necessarily a great idea on the street. :pardon:
Drag engines only run for short periods, and rebuilt as needed.
Street engines need to last, for most of us, anyway.
so im super cheap... and i made the filter pods about 3 dollars a pod. i used stainless steel screen for drains white panty hose so i can see how much dirt they collect and scotch bright. it made a big difference. it will stay idling now were as before it would idle for a few then die. not only that but it stopped popping during high throttle return. im pretty happy with them. well i know now i will stop rocks and furry creatures from entering my carbs and it gave me the little bit of restriction i needed. oh and on my test ride after the pods, i pulled the front end off the ground for the first time today. wow. didnt see that one comming. i was really getting into it. and felt it start to come up so i sat it back down. but kookaloo guys that was awesome!
my base that i used to start everything on, just 2" pvc pipe
(http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/MotherOfAGem/FJ%201100/DSC_0564.jpg)
the drain screen 1.50 at biglots
(http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/MotherOfAGem/FJ%201100/DSC_0565.jpg)
the panty hose free my daughter out grew them!
(http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/MotherOfAGem/FJ%201100/DSC_0566.jpg)
scotch bright and clamp
(http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/MotherOfAGem/FJ%201100/DSC_0563.jpg)
cut and trim to fit
(http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/MotherOfAGem/FJ%201100/DSC_0562.jpg)
and their on the bike!
(http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/MotherOfAGem/FJ%201100/DSC_0567.jpg)
it would seem as if a little restriction was just what she wanted it runs great thanks again for all the help guys
Thats just silly you can buy 4 pod filters for about $30 why would you do that :rofl:You will do more harm than good I.M.O.
I'm happy to give you an air box if it helps... Monkey got my Unis, but I do have a K&N for the air box. I have a '90 and a '92 if either will fit?
No offense, but those things are a virtual choke... you can't restrict the venturi like that and get anything even close to design flow (smooth, as laminar as possible until the butterfly tumbles it to mix in the fuel). It may be running better if your pilot jets are too small or poorly adjusted. I imagine you lose most of the high end of the power band as well... anyway, take the airbox option if you like. Or save up for Unis and trash those chokes.
Frank
Like Frank said, and thanks to Frank I also have an OEM air box with K&N filters that you can have. Recently cleaned and oiled. And will never be missed....Kookaloo and Beyond!!!
Nice effort.
Did you apply any "filtering oil" to the components? If not, then all it's doing is keeping bugs out. Dirt will pass right through that stuff.
DavidR.
no filtering oil, and i do plan on filter pods. this was just because i was told it would work, and wanted to see if it would. seems to be working so far anyways. the bike isnt even legal yet and it has been rode up and down the road 5 maybe 6 times i wanted to prove that it ran like was advertised, which it was doesnt the second gear needs work and it drips oil from needing seals. but i didnt pay half what the guy was selling it for. long story, neighbor traded a car for the bike and i bought the bike and did the trade for him... but the bike was on CL for 1500 and i paid 700. lol so im not griping to much. anyways were moving and remodeling a house so i dont really have much to spend on the bike after purchase and it will proy spend most of the winter in the shed or porch, and this spring or after were moved i can spend some real cash on it. seals pods second gear fix and undercut gsxr wheels and maybe if i can find a reasonable price on a front end USD forks.
This bike was bought to keep me from doing any more mods to my daily driver truck i get the itch and i have to play with something...i had a project truck that i traded for a turbo kit and spare engine for my diesel and i lost my project. this replaced my project. and this summer when im riding it i can let the truck sit long enough that i can put the frickin turbo on my truck!
oh and maybe this wasnt covered, but the bike in not jetted, and pods still require jets right? if i had the money for the jets best believe i would have the 30 bucks for pods. because of the lack of restriction it wouldnt idle for longer then 30 seconds tops. now with the makeshift filters that cost me about 10 bucks outta pocket maybe a little less, it will idle for ever. the longest ride it will preform with the makeshift filters is across town to our new house.
Bike should idle no diferent with filters on or off.
huh well thats funny, cause it did. i dunno what to say then. seems to run better anyways ive only rode it 2 or 3 times since the vacuum lines have been back on before i did the filters and they seemed to make a difference theyll be there until i can afford some pods and jets.
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on October 30, 2012, 06:26:02 PM
Bike should idle no diferent with filters on or off.
This is correct.... There is something wrong in the carbs. You need to pull them and go thru everything, make sure chokes are clean and all passages in the bodies are clear.
I dont know if i posted all the pics of tearing down and reassembly of the carbs, but they are in pretty bad shape. i have seen another rack on flebay for pretty cheap, they may need rebuilt but it would seem as if it would be a better base then what i have now. i also got a line on a solid tank with cap for cheap. so ill proly be replacing the tank first, which it needs bad.
Quote from: minitruckeratheart on October 31, 2012, 11:01:10 AM
I dont know if i posted all the pics of tearing down and reassembly of the carbs, but they are in pretty bad shape. i have seen another rack on flebay for pretty cheap, they may need rebuilt but it would seem as if it would be a better base then what i have now. i also got a line on a solid tank with cap for cheap. so ill proly be replacing the tank first, which it needs bad.
Randy has brand new complete sets of carbs ready to go.... think about it ..if someone is selling a set of carbs for cheap on ebay they you are just buying someone else's problems..... every single piece brand new for not much money considering how much all the individual wear items cost to replace... you would have almost the cost of the carbs just in buying 4 slide diaphrams!
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AXJRCarb&cat=24 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AXJRCarb&cat=24)
i bet your bike could use a set of these too
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AIntakeO%2DRing&cat=24 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AIntakeO%2DRing&cat=24)
KOokaloo! (even better with new carbs and sealed up carb joints)