Hi.
Got my self an 86 FJ1200 Stock which need some modding and maintenance this winter.
So, i have decided to start with changing forks, breaks and the spin-on oil filter adapter.
The question is however, changing into what? I would like to change to something that's better then stock of course, and i am not all to familiar with what is compatible with the FJ1200.
There are also a ton of different brands to choose from, any suggestion for breaks and fork?
Ken
Start with the Search function, the forks and brakes have been covered so many times here you can't miss the posts. Your budget will be your main guide with all the options you have. The smaller your budget is, the less options you will have. The kind of riding you do can also influence the mods you chose to make. A serious rider that wants maximum performance or the casual commuter or long distance cruzer? Many of us are in between. Do some research first, it will help you get a better feel for what mods will fit you and your FJ.
My 86 has 89 forks, RPM valves with .85 straight rate springs, 88 FZR1000 front wheel, Blue dot calipers, Galfer knock-off wave rotors and steel braided lines. And I am really happy with it. Good luck.
Thanks for the tips FJmonkey (funny nickname by the way) :good2:
Will start with the search function.
You say you have an 88 FZR1000 front wheel, is your rear wheel also FZR or stock?
The Front Fork Spring (ex.85kg/mm) at RPM, what is the difference between .85kg/mm to 1.0 kg/mm?
I am a newbie to modding so i try to grasp as much information as possible :pardon:
Cheers,
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on October 08, 2012, 01:55:58 PM
Thanks for the tips FJmonkey (funny nickname by the way) :good2:
Will start with the search function.
You say you have an 88 FZR1000 front wheel, is your rear wheel also FZR or stock?
The Front Fork Spring (ex.85kg/mm) at RPM, what is the difference between .85kg/mm to 1.0 kg/mm?
I am a newbie to modding so i try to grasp as much information as possible :pardon:
Cheers,
Ken
Rear wheel is 92 GSXR 750, it bolts on easy like the 87/88 FZR1000 front.
The .85 spring is light unless you also use the RPM valve. If you just changing springs you will need go heavier like .95 or 1.0 but you will just have the same old 26 year old technology. The RPM valves transformed the front end in handling. The Anti-Dive you think you have (84 to 87 years) either don't work or at all or so little you can't tell. With the RPM valves the dive under breaking is incredibly reduced. But the forks are less stiff and absorb the bumps in the road so quickly you don't notice much of it. I am not a racer but I like to get spirited in the corners and these valves make the front feel very planted even under rough road conditions. The single best mod I have made to my FJ to date.
You can get a lot of FJ and Yamaha stuff from www.rpmracing.com (http://www.rpmracing.com). Randy keeps adding FJ stuff to his store and if you need anything Yamaha just ask him. He can order it and have it shipped to your door faster and for less than buying from the steelers.
Ironically in side car racing the person in the side car that is constantly shifting around to better distribute weight is called the monkey. But how I chose my moniker was before I knew that. It does seem to fit though.
If you still have the oem rubber brake lines on your '86, start with replacing those first. Just a suggestion.
Pat is correct re: brake lines.
FJ Monkey's front end mirrors mine although I did add the Fork Brace as well, which improved things even more by tying everything together. An added plus is that the fork seals, which weeped or leaked constantly, have never seeped at all since the Fork Brace was installed.
My goofy moniker was chosen for me & it has been hell ever since...!
Ride safe,
Mike Ramos.
that's a dam good reason to buy a fork brace :good2:
Well,
There are those who feel it is the fork tube misalignment during their up & down action that causes the seals to leak. (There is a web site with an illustration of this but I do not recall which one).
Given the fact that the Brace eliminates this misalignment completely, which lends credence or empirical evidence to this point of view.
And the cost of a Fork Brace is well spent and recouped when you factor in the cost of buying new seals & the labor involved.
Ride carefully,
Mike Ramos.
The ONLY way a fork brace can do ANYTHING is if your front axle or the fork tubes bend.
Prior to understanding this fact, I did have a brace on a previous bike. It did nothing.
Arnie
Quote from: Mike Ramos on October 08, 2012, 06:01:24 PM
Well,
There are those who feel it is the fork tube misalignment during their up & down action that causes the seals to leak. (There is a web site with an illustration of this but I do not recall which one).
Mike Ramos.
Is this the illustration you were thinking of?
http://www.superbrace.com/simulation.html (http://www.superbrace.com/simulation.html)
Arnie, here's a test for you to try...
...the aluminum strap between the front and back half of your front fender....take it off....see those 4 holes in the strap? They are not round are they? They were round when your bike was new but what caused them to be elongated?
You bet your ass those spindley (by today's standards) 41mm fork tubes move on our heavy bikes....absolutely.
Another thing I noticed with a fork brace was that I stopped cracking the fender tabs....
Quote from: Mike Ramos on October 08, 2012, 05:41:01 PM
Pat is correct re: brake lines.
FJ Monkey's front end mirrors mine although I did add the Fork Brace as well, which improved things even more by tying everything together. An added plus is that the fork seals, which weeped or leaked constantly, have never seeped at all since the Fork Brace was installed.
My goofy moniker was chosen for me & it has been hell ever since...!
Ride safe,
Mike Ramos.
Bad Monkey, I forgot that I also have an RPM fork brace installed by Randy himself just before a ride during a rally....Priceless...
Hi.
A lot of good tips, thanks guys.
I will defiantly start by checking the brake lines and replace them with something better.
The fork seems to be a bit more expensive upgrade, but it defiantly seems worth it. RPM valves is a must i see. No point in staying with the old technology when you can improve it with the valves. :smile:
Cheers
Ken
Hey Arnie,
I have to disagree with you concerning the fork brace:
Thanks Marsh; that was the illustration I was thinking of.
And thanks to Mr. Conlon; you summed it up nicely.
Finally the FJ Monkey; you and I had a spirited ride not too long ago - the modifications that you & I have installed put the spirit into it & made it all possible...
Or perhaps I should say that the gentleman from R.P. M. has made it possible for all FJ owners. Cheers to Randy & R.P.M.
And Arnie - cheer up...!
Ride carefully,
Mike Ramos.
Hi again.
After doing some research i have found several forks to a reasonable price.
Those i have fitted are stock 41mm with antidive.
So, the question is wether to change to newer 43mm from 91, also think this means i have to change the mounting brackets for the fork, am i correct? Does the wheel need to be changed to?
Al sow got a good price on a fork foam an FZR1000, but i am more unfamiliar with this on, but i am guessing brackets would need to be changed to?
There is always the option to keep stock, and mood with RPM parts. But i gone take the whole thing out anyway, so i might just change it..
I would apricot some feedback from others that have experience with the forks mentioned above.
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on October 10, 2012, 07:12:54 AM
Hi again.
After doing some research i have found several forks to a reasonable price.
Those i have fitted are stock 41mm with antidive.
So, the question is wether to change to newer 43mm from 91, also think this means i have to change the mounting brackets for the fork, am i correct? Does the wheel need to be changed to?
Al sow got a good price on a fork foam an FZR1000, but i am more unfamiliar with this on, but i am guessing brackets would need to be changed to?
There is always the option to keep stock, and mood with RPM parts. But i gone take the whole thing out anyway, so i might just change it..
I would apricot some feedback from others that have experience with the forks mentioned above.
Cheers
Ken
Forks from an FZR1000 may be an improvement from the 86 forks but the RPM valves will not likely fit. The valve is sized to fit the specific ID of the FJ forks (thanks Randy for that info). So if you want the modern suspension improvement from RPM you will want to stick with FJ parts. However others have put on YZF (and similar) USD forks. They look really good. Not sure about the cost or effort.
Quote from: keand3 on October 10, 2012, 07:12:54 AM.
So, the question is wether to change to newer 43mm from 91, also think this means i have to change the mounting brackets for the fork, am i correct? Does the wheel need to be changed to?
43mm from a '91 what? :unknown:
[/quote]
43mm from a '91 what? :unknown:
[/quote]
1991 FJ :smile:
[/quote]
Forks from an FZR1000 may be an improvement from the 86 forks but the RPM valves will not likely fit. The valve is sized to fit the specific ID of the FJ forks (thanks Randy for that info). So if you want the modern suspension improvement from RPM you will want to stick with FJ parts. However others have put on YZF (and similar) USD forks. They look really good. Not sure about the cost or effort.
[/quote]
First of, sorry for all the misspellings in my last post. Not the same typing on an iPad :mocking:
I do think i will stick with the stock fork, and use the parts from RPM to upgrade it.
Putting on YZF forks will be a lot more work then improving the stock, and more expensive at the end so don't think it's worth it.
The previous owner did modify the forks some i found out recently. Don't know what exactly, but he fork has been hightend a bit for a higher riding position, or so he told me.
The RPM fork valves, were exactly are the mounted on fork?
Ken
Disregard the question regarding the fork valves.
Jut saw another post about it, and explained it very well :)
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on October 10, 2012, 10:24:13 AM
Quote from: not a lib on October 10, 2012, 09:00:24 AM
43mm from a '91 what? :unknown:
1991 FJ :smile:
My memory may be hazy, but IIRC, all the FJs came with 41mm forks.
Someone please correct me if I am mistaken.
To bee honest, Im really not sure actually. While searching for forks without antidive, a local dealer of used MC parts told me those forks with the antidive valve came with 41mm forks, later model without A/D came with 43mm...
If all FJ came with 41mm i would be happy, since that would make it easier for me :good2:
Ken
The 89' forks I put on my 86' fit the RPM valve and they don't have the AD units. I think the answer is all years of FJs have the same diameter fork tubes.
Quote from: FJmonkey on October 10, 2012, 12:22:41 PM
The 89' forks I put on my 86' fit the RPM valve and they don't have the AD units. I think the answer is all years of FJs have the same diameter fork tubes.
Correct!
If that's the case, it should be an easy job then, replacing the forks and "escape" the Anti Dive
Not to mention a better look for the new brake lines :yes:
Thanks a lot! :good2:
'89+ FJ forks are still 41mm. They will allow you to change to an '88 FZR1000 wheel, 298 mm rotors and blue spot calipers. You will be able to keep your existing triple clamps, speedo drive, axle, spacer and fender. These forks will fit the RPM valves.
Add some braided stainless brake lines and you have one hell of an upgrade!
Derek
This just saved my winter :biggrin:
But i still can't figure out why the dealer meant the forks were 43mm, and the need of brackets replacement etc to be able to fit the new fork... Strange..
How supplies the blue spot calipers bybhe way?
Sorry all the miss spelling, damn ipad...
Cheers.
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on October 10, 2012, 01:17:56 PM
This just saved my winter :biggrin:
But i still can't figure out why the dealer meant the forks were 43mm, and the need of brackets replacement etc to be able to fit the new fork... Strange..
How supplies the blue spot calipers bybhe way?
Sorry all the miss spelling, damn ipad...
Cheers.
Ken
No disrespect meant to any particular dealer, but this collective, as a whole, knows more about FJs than many dealers did when they were
new.
Locally, I'm fortunate to have a very good one.
Add in the time factor, plus the fact that many dealers employ many people who are younger than than the bike is ("What's an FJ? Who makes it?"), then figure that a lot of those can't even look up parts, and you can see how answers like that come about. :unknown:
Quote from: not a lib on October 10, 2012, 02:39:43 PM
Quote from: keand3 on October 10, 2012, 01:17:56 PM
This just saved my winter :biggrin:
But i still can't figure out why the dealer meant the forks were 43mm, and the need of brackets replacement etc to be able to fit the new fork... Strange..
How supplies the blue spot calipers bybhe way?
Sorry all the miss spelling, damn ipad...
Cheers.
Ken
No disrespect meant to any particular dealer, but this collective, as a whole, knows more about FJs than many dealers did when they were new.
Locally, I'm fortunate to have a very good one.
Add in the time factor, plus the fact that many dealers employ many people who are younger than than the bike is ("What's an FJ? Who makes it?"), then figure that a lot of those can't even look up parts, and you can see how answers like that come about. :unknown:
BTDT
Thank God for FJOwners.com!
Right on the mark Leon.
Thank our lucky stars for Marsh & FJOwners.com and Randy from R.P.M....!
Perhaps two of the most important people who make the pleasure of owning & maintaining FJ's just that, a pleasure.
Thanks again,
Mike Ramos.
blue spots are off early yamaha r1, r6 , xjr , fjr ? fz1 ect, eBay is a good source , just don't buy the radial ones they won't bolt on to your standard forks
Quote from: fj11.5 on October 10, 2012, 05:38:55 PM
blue spots are off early yamaha r1, r6 , xjr , fjr ? fz1 ect, eBay is a good source , just don't buy the radial ones they won't bolt on to your standard forks
Just to help the many here that do not know like myself, how does one tell if the calipers are radial?
It's the mounting. Radial calipers have the mount bolts perpendicular to the front axle (tension/compression)
Conventional calipers have the mount bolts parallel to the front axle (shear)
I'll look for a picture...... Cheers laddie!
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/565_30_11_11_8_58_12.jpeg)
thanks mate, a pic explaines it better that I could :good2:
Quote from: Mike Ramos on October 10, 2012, 04:53:17 PM
Right on the mark Leon.
Thank our lucky stars for Marsh & FJOwners.com and Randy from R.P.M....!
Perhaps two of the most important people who make the pleasure of owning & maintaining FJ's just that, a pleasure.
Thanks again,
Mike Ramos.
Very true Mike, and I give my respects to Randy, but honestly, if it weren't for Marsh and FJOwners.com I would be lost and neither would I have found RPM.
Without them, it would be kinda like the childrens christmas story of the island of misfit toys, all but forgotten to time, and set aside for the latest and greatest offerings.
I'm very proud to be an active part of such a great community!!
Cheers,
Leon
Question
I see you can use a 88 fzr front wheel is their any reason a 87 fzr wheel could not be used?
Same wheel, except for color...'87 is red, '88 is white.....same Yamaha part# Strip off the paint and go..
Quote from: fj11.5 on October 10, 2012, 05:38:55 PM
blue spots are off early yamaha r1, r6 , xjr , fjr ? fz1 ect, eBay is a good source , just don't buy the radial ones they won't bolt on to your standard forks
Aha.. Thanks a lot. There's a lot of those bikes around so it shouldent be any problem to find.
Except from the radial ones, do the rest bolt on or is there other versions to?
Many thanks to you to Pat, with the picture you posted it finaly made sense :good2:
Cheers
Ken
Ok,, i choose to continue in thees thread instead if posting a new one :yes:
So the bike i now safely parked in my garage, and this winters work is scheduled.
Noticed some things when i started to look at the fairings, that they were attached with several different screws and what nuts :greeting:
So i started searching for parts to change them with and RPM have some rubber washers, spacer and shiny oval Allen screws that would work nicely.
But i also would need to replace the retainer pins.. Not only that but also the moulded pins fitted into the rubber grommets.
Any ideas were this kind a thing might be bought? A forum search didn't give any answers (might have search differently perhaps) neither did goggle..
Cheers
Ken
Look up the part# and send Randy a e-mail. He can get you oem parts.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 11, 2012, 12:00:51 PM
Look up the part# and send Randy a e-mail. He can get you oem parts.
Thanks, will do :good2:
Ken
I have now gotten my self a new fork form a 89 FJ and will pick it up next week.
The dealer also gave me blue dot calipers from an R1 in trade for my old forks.
Since i am most likely not to use them anymore, i agreed.
This will be my first fork removal, so wish me luck.
I stil l only have stock front wheel and brake disc, will the new calipers work on stock disk?
They will of course be change with time also ;-)
Cheers
Ken
You will need to upgrade to 1988 and up disk. eBay gas good prices on the fake Gafers. Usuall around $200 US.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Brake-Disc-Rotor-For-Yamaha-FJ-1200-90-93-/310262958829?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AFJ&hash=item483d1d0aed&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Brake-Disc-Rotor-For-Yamaha-FJ-1200-90-93-/310262958829?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AFJ&hash=item483d1d0aed&vxp=mtr)
Quote from: keand3 on October 13, 2012, 03:04:24 PM
I stil l only have stock front wheel and brake disc, will the new calipers work on stock disk?
You need a later model front wheel (89+) or even better, a 3.5'' FZR1000 wheel (87-88). The Blue Dots will not bolt onto the earlier model wheels.
Here's (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4183.0) a great guide that will tell you all you need to know about the upgrade.
Good luck!
/Nat
Quote from: keand3 on October 13, 2012, 03:04:24 PM
I have now gotten my self a new fork form a 89 FJ and will pick it up next week.
The dealer also gave me blue dot calipers from an R1 in trade for my old forks.
I stil l only have stock front wheel and brake disc, will the new calipers work on stock disk?
They will of course be change with time also ;-)
Cheers
Ken
When I purchased my 89, it had first gen wheels and rotors on it. I did install as set of Blue Dots and they worked fine. I eventually got a stock 89 wheel and installed the Chinese knock off Galfer rotors. Attached are some photos
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/firstgenwheels.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/553396_4288725669686_1868276549_n.jpg)
Hope this helps
Fred
Quote from: WhiteBeard on October 13, 2012, 03:50:01 PM
Quote from: keand3 on October 13, 2012, 03:04:24 PM
I stil l only have stock front wheel and brake disc, will the new calipers work on stock disk?
You need a later model front wheel (89+) or even better, a 3.5'' FZR1000 wheel (87-88). The Blue Dots will not bolt onto the earlier model wheels.
Here's (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4183.0) a great guide that will tell you all you need to know about the upgrade.
Good luck!
/Nat
Aha, i knew there were something that i had missed.
The hunt for a new front wheel have begun. Luckely i have 6 months of winter to find one :good2:
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on October 14, 2012, 01:06:10 AM
Aha, i knew there were something that i had missed.
The hunt for a new front wheel have begun. Luckely i have 6 months of winter to find one :good2:
Cheers
Ken
While you're at it, you might also look for another brake master cylinder (14mm being the most popular alternative me thinks).
It gives you a much nicer feel.
Here's some links for ya:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6599 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6599)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1380 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1380)
And don't forget to change the brake lines to braided ones.
Then you could install Randys fork valves and fork brace, then... then...
Koookalooooo!!!!
:yahoo:
Nat
Thanks for the tip Nat.
Wil deffently look into it :good2:
Last night i was supposed to take my fork of, but never got that far. (were supposed to pick up my new 89 fork and the blue spot calipets in exchange for the old fork)
Turned out the fairing waden't as easy to take out as i tought. Over the years all bolt, nuts and screws ave been change to different types, and everything made of rubber needs to bee changed. Were a nightmare getting it of without breaking anything :nea:
So i found a website fron The Netherlands/Holland that had allmost every stock item to FJ modells, not so bad prices either. http://www.cmsnl.com/ (http://www.cmsnl.com/)
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 11, 2012, 12:00:51 PM
Look up the part# and send Randy a e-mail. He can get you oem parts.
Randy's on case, what an excellent service!!
Quote from: WhiteBeard on October 13, 2012, 03:50:01 PM
Quote from: keand3 on October 13, 2012, 03:04:24 PM
I stil l only have stock front wheel and brake disc, will the new calipers work on stock disk?
You need a later model front wheel (89+) or even better, a 3.5'' FZR1000 wheel (87-88). The Blue Dots will not bolt onto the earlier model wheels.
Here's (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4183.0) a great guide that will tell you all you need to know about the upgrade.
Good luck!
/Nat
Nat, this is the awnser i got from an used part deler regardig my question if he had a 87-88 FZR1000 wheel in store that i could bolt on my 89 fork ( same guy who will deliver my mew fork)
"You should probably not try them they do not fit use one fj1200 wheels"
Am not really sure what his awnser is based on thoug..
Is there other parts than from a stock 89 wheel would need to bolt on a FRZ1000 wheel ?
It seems that a lot of dealers should have taken a trip to the fjowners forum for an update on information :pardon:
Cheers
Ken
It's the same wheel as the FJ wheel, only it's 3.5" wide....the dealer is wrong. We know more than he does.
Everything that fits the 17" FJ wheel, fits the '87/88 FZR rim, axle, spacers, speedo drive, rotors, everything.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 15, 2012, 11:36:52 AM
It's the same wheel as the FJ wheel, only it's 3.5" wide....the dealer is wrong. We know more than he does.
Everything that fits the 17" FJ wheel, fits the '87/88 FZR rim, axle, spacers, speedo drive, rotors, everything.
It's amazing how people you would consider as professionals, lack knowledge regarding parts, comaibility and so on... After all the information i have received here in this FJ comunity, there is no doubt in who i trust :greeting:
Quote from: keand3 on October 15, 2012, 01:51:50 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 15, 2012, 11:36:52 AM
It's the same wheel as the FJ wheel, only it's 3.5" wide....the dealer is wrong. We know more than he does.
Everything that fits the 17" FJ wheel, fits the '87/88 FZR rim, axle, spacers, speedo drive, rotors, everything.
It's amazing how people you would consider as professionals, lack knowledge regarding parts, comaibility and so on... After all the information i have received here in this FJ comunity, there is no doubt in who i trust :greeting:
You can trust Pat...he knows his shit and isn't afraid the share it!
To be honest, most everyone here is about the same, damn good bunch!
Leon
Right on Leon... :drinks:
We have a unique community here.
We eat, sleep, breathe FJ's. Currently we have 2,674 members worldwide, and we all bring something to the table.
It's the power of the increment. Between us, we have many, many years of collected experience.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 15, 2012, 04:44:17 PM
Right on Leon... :drinks:
We have a unique community here.
We eat, sleep, breathe FJ's. Currently we have 2,674 members worldwide, and we all bring something to the table.
It's the power of the increment. Between us, we have many, many years of collected experience.
:good:
Went and got my new(used) 89 forks today, and my blue dot calipers will bee shipped tomorrow :good2:
The dealer still wouldn't be live the FZR 87-88 rim/wheel would fit my new (used) forks :-)
I didn't bother trying to explain anymore, and just said it would bee my Laos if it dint fit. :blum2: Something it will..
Hopefully he find a fzr wheel in his storage or else i just have to go with a stock 89 wheel one season :greeting:
Anyway, a new brakedisk is a must on new wheel and calipers, but there are hundreds to choose from...
298mm is what i have been recommended..
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 15, 2012, 11:36:52 AM
It's the same wheel as the FJ wheel, only it's 3.5" wide....the dealer is wrong. We know more than he does.
Everything that fits the 17" FJ wheel, fits the '87/88 FZR rim, axle, spacers, speedo drive, rotors, everything.
Pat,
Is the gear unit assy. the same on the 86 and 89 wheel? The parts look a like, but what i can see they have different part number..
Cheers
Ken
The speedo drive will fit just fine but the '86 speedo drive is geared for the 16" 120/80 front tire
The '89 speedo drive is geared for the slightly larger 17" 120/70 tire.
It's ok to use the '86 speedo drive understanding that your speedo will read just a tad slower that your actual speed. Like less than 1%. No worries.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 19, 2012, 12:06:18 PM
The speedo drive will fit just fine but the '86 speedo drive is geared for the 16" 120/80 front tire
The '89 speedo drive is geared for the slightly larger 17" 120/70 tire.
It's ok to use the '86 speedo drive understanding that your speedo will read just a tad slower that your actual speed. Like less than 1%. No worries.
Aha :good2:
I can live with 1%.. :-) Thanks Pat. Yours and this community's knowledge is a life saver! :-)
I know for sure that i learn something new every time i visit this forum. :i_am_so_happy:
But, If were to get a hold of an FZR wheel, Will the speedo wire fit? I might not get a complet set so i probably have to order axel etc.
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 15, 2012, 11:36:52 AM
It's the same wheel as the FJ wheel, only it's 3.5" wide....the dealer is wrong. We know more than he does.
Everything that fits the 17" FJ wheel, fits the '87/88 FZR rim, axle, spacers, speedo drive, rotors, everything.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 19, 2012, 03:05:22 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 15, 2012, 11:36:52 AM
It's the same wheel as the FJ wheel, only it's 3.5" wide....the dealer is wrong. We know more than he does.
Everything that fits the 17" FJ wheel, fits the '87/88 FZR rim, axle, spacers, speedo drive, rotors, everything.
This is Pat quoting himself.... Not sure why, but there it is....
I think i know why he is quoting him self. He had allready awnsered the question in an earlier post :greeting:
Have my new 89 forks installed the bike, and eagrly want a new wheel. My old stock 86 stock wheel looks a bit dissrpointed though:-)
I looked at the schematics on the 86 fork and 89 fork, it looks like i can fit the 86 wheel on
he 89 fork. Not sure about the blue dots calipers, but i know someone here will enlighten me :good2:
After looking around a while, it turns out that an FZR1000 87/88 wheel was a bit more difficult to find then i thought.
I have found a good supplier with a huge storage of used and new parts for older biks. Mainly japanees. Since this beeing in Norway the price tag can be s bit to much. Ebay would probably give me a better price but the import fee will bee added.
They would give me a call when they got a wheel in. The offered the wheel with tyre and brakedisk, the quedtion is wich brand. There are tousend suppliers of disks. Anyone have any god experienc with a brand?
You can put the '86 wheel in the '89 forks.
HOWEVER The '86 brake disks are 278mm OD, the '89 disks 298mm OD, and IIRC the mounting centers are different. Also, while the blue-dot calipers will fit the '89 forks, they won't fully sweep the '86 brake disk.
You might be able to find another wheel that has a 15mm axle and mounts brake disks of the correct size, but its not likely that the speedo drive will fit too. Or, you might be able to find a wheel that fits, but needs the bearing sizes changed. You're going to be trying a bunch of wheels until you find the right one. Maybe your "good supplier" has a cross reference listing to tell you what wheels might interchange, but I've not seen anything like that.
Arnie
If you run out of options, perhaps you could find a rim in Sweden or Denmark?
I found my FZR wheel on Blocket (http://www.blocket.se), prices weren't too steep at all; if it doesn't have a tyre on it, the shipping shouldn't be all that bad either?
Edit: There's an FJ club in Denmark (http://fjclub.dk), seems to be a lot of parts for sale on their forum. You could get lucky (if you decide to go for the 1200 wheel, that is).
Quote from: Arnie on October 28, 2012, 08:38:05 AM
You can put the '86 wheel in the '89 forks.
HOWEVER The '86 brake disks are 278mm OD, the '89 disks 298mm OD, and IIRC the mounting centers are different. Also, while the blue-dot calipers will fit the '89 forks, they won't fully sweep the '86 brake disk.
You might be able to find another wheel that has a 15mm axle and mounts brake disks of the correct size, but its not likely that the speedo drive will fit too. Or, you might be able to find a wheel that fits, but needs the bearing sizes changed. You're going to be trying a bunch of wheels until you find the right one. Maybe your "good supplier" has a cross reference listing to tell you what wheels might interchange, but I've not seen anything like that.
Arnie
Thanks Arnie!
I was bit unsure about the brake disks. It seems like the 86 wheel will stay of then :-) Wouldn't have anyting other then a proper wheel mounted :yes:
It would be best to to fit a FZR wheel were my blue dot calipers will fit.
Unfortunately my "good supplier" is in a great lack of knowledge on the FJ's, as many other with him. The all have a good knowledge on parts, and spareparts number etc, but that's about it. When it comes to fixing things, changing or any kind of modding, they simply do not have know. How could that be? FJ being the best bike of all times and everything :yahoo:
QuoteInsert Quote
If you run out of options, perhaps you could find a rim in Sweden or Denmark?
I found my FZR wheel on Blocket, prices weren't too steep at all; if it doesn't have a tyre on it, the shipping shouldn't be all that bad either?
Edit: There's an FJ club in Denmark, seems to be a lot of parts for sale on their forum. You could get lucky (if you decide to go for the 1200 wheel, that is).
Yes, indeed:-)
Have scouted their webpage some time now, but there hasn't been anything of intrest yet, but thanks for the tip :good2:
It seems that EBay might be the way to go if I would save med some money, if supplier dosen't turn up with a nicer price:-)
Luckely Sweden and Danmark are not far away, and since I also am a licesend pilot, i could fly there my self. Cuts shipping and i get a trip :good2:
Any preference on brake disk, anyone?
Cheers
Ken
All suppliers locally only seems to get the 320mm disk for the fzr wheel. :scratch_one-s_head:
That did not supprise me :-)
Trying to tell them about interchangeable parts, but they seem to ignore it. Perhaps they don't like the old classics:-)
If i am to get anything from them, i would have to give them a specific make and model to order, but I'm guessing that will buff up the price tag:)
I found this on a UK site, but i can't tell which size it is. Anyone care to guide me?
http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/76860 (http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/76860)
Cheers
Ken
Keand3,
This may help you. It is not an exhaustive list, there are some other bikes that also use this same disk.
EBC Front Disks & bikes used: MD2001LS MD2001RS 298mm dia
TZR 250 (3MAI) 89
FZR 400 RR (4DX) 92
FZ 400 96
FZR 400 (3TJI/2/6/7)
FZR 400 (3ENZ) 89
MD2001C XJR 400 95-
FZR 600 89-93
FZR 600 R 94-95
FZS 600 Fazer 98-03
FZ 750 89-91
TDM 850 91-01
TRX 850 96-99
FJ 1200 (3CV/3XW Type) 88-95
APRILIA
RST Futura 1000 01-04
DUCATI
900 Supersport 89-90
907 IE 90-91
Arnie
Thanks Arnie.
I will have a look at it when i get home from work.
Have read people have bought thoose EBC disks used, but i would rather order them new. :good2:
Since im at work, i not able to check, but do the MD2001LS MD2001RS 298mm have same mounting on fzr wheel as on a stock FJ 89 wheel?
Cheers
Ken
Here is what I used for my 17 x 3.5 front wheel.
I think this what I have, same dealer on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Brake-Disc-Rotor-YAMAHA-FZ750-FZS-FZR-600-XJR-TZ-250-TDM-TRX-850-FJ1200-G-/230813692455?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AFZR&vxp=mtr&hash=item35bd917227 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Brake-Disc-Rotor-YAMAHA-FZ750-FZS-FZR-600-XJR-TZ-250-TDM-TRX-850-FJ1200-G-/230813692455?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AFZR&vxp=mtr&hash=item35bd917227)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6584.msg58165#msg58165 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6584.msg58165#msg58165)
Thanks FJmonkey.
I am a newbie so I'll ask another question :-)
Will those rotors fit the FJ wheel as well? Are the mounting similar to a 17'' FJ wheel?
Quote from: keand3 on October 29, 2012, 10:33:57 AM
Thanks FJmonkey.
I am a newbie so I'll ask another question :-)
Will those rotors fit the FJ wheel as well? Are the mounting similar to a 17'' FJ wheel?
I believe they will fit 90' to 93' wheels.
Ahh..
So it would be easier for me to get an 90 Fj wheel instead of 89? Thinking about brake disk.
The '89 17" FJ rim is the same as the 90-93 non abs rim.
If you can't find a 87-88 FZR 3.5" wide rim you are fine with the '89 3" wide rim.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 29, 2012, 01:19:35 PM
The '89 17" FJ rim is the same as the 90-93 non abs rim.
If you can't find a 87-88 FZR 3.5" wide rim you are fine with the '89 3" wide rim.
So too sum up a rather long thread:
I know that all the parts needed to fit the 87/88 FZR1000 wheel (axel spacer etc.) to FJ forks are the same, and will work fine.
The mounting of the brake disk, is the same for the FZR and FJ 89!? Correct me if I'm wrong.. :-) (see question below)
There still some things about the brake disk i do not understand, probably since i am fairly new to modding :good2:
The EBC disk with the part number: MD2001LS MD2001RS 298mm will fit both the stock FJ1200 Wheel (88' and up) and 88' FZR1000?
When i search by the partnumber on EBC, 88' FZR1000 is not mention, but the FZR400 is, but form what i understand the rim is the same?
Take look:
http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/search/default.asp?part=MD2001LS&x=20&y=11&v1=car&t1= (http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/search/default.asp?part=MD2001LS&x=20&y=11&v1=car&t1=)
Is Galfer the way to go? I figured out that it originally is a Spanish company, so I went to their homepage. But they don't have any on-line stores, so their products have to bee order and bought through an Norwegian dealer..
The price tag is probably gonna be high I'm guessing :-)
http://www.galfer.es/asp/catalogo_aplicaciones.asp?ids=22810811215258329167&p_marca=136&p_model=10579&p_cataleg=M (http://www.galfer.es/asp/catalogo_aplicaciones.asp?ids=22810811215258329167&p_marca=136&p_model=10579&p_cataleg=M)
Pat, FJmonkey, Arnie, WhiteBeard and all you others, your help has been most valuable! The amount of info and help I have been given on this forum was (and still is) far beyone my expectations! :good:
It would have taken me ages figured this out all this by my self!
I still haven't gotten to the brakepads on my blue dot calipers. But that will have to wait for now :yes:
Cheers.
Ken
Ken.......this may interest you:
http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/sandybikespares?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 (http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/sandybikespares?_trksid=p2047675.l2559)
I bought Kagizume rotors from these guys a few years ago and found them to be excellent rotors.
Harvy
Quote from: keand3 on October 29, 2012, 02:43:19 PM
So too sum up a rather long thread:
The mounting of the brake disk, is the same for the FZR and FJ 89!? Correct me if I'm wrong.. :-) (see question below)
The FJ (17" non-ABS and '87-'88 FZR1000 share the same bolt pattern on the wheel, but the FZR disc is larger in diameter.
Thanks.
Been searching ebay some time and have found several disk of intrest, bu the are 300mm.
They fitt the wheel, but will they fit with the blu dot calipers, or is 2mm diviation just fine?
Ken
Will be fine. 300mm is really only 1mm larger in radius (distance from axle).
Arnie
Quote from: Arnie on October 30, 2012, 06:48:49 AM
Will be fine. 300mm is really only 1mm larger in radius (distance from axle).
Arnie
Thanks.
White 88' FZR 1000 rim is now ordered and will arrive in a week or so! :good2:
Since i have change almost everything on the front part, i might as well change the M/C to go with the new brakelines that's coming up shortly:-)
There a lot of info on M/C on the forum, but is makes me a bit more confused. Quessing personal preference and ride style will decide..
Cheers
Ken
Okey, just another quick question.
Since I allready have Blue dots calipers from an R1, I might as well get an R1 master cylinder to go with them.
But, wil they all fit my handelbar, or just some specific yearmodels
will fit, I'm using a 16mm r6 radial mc, so you won't have any trouble
Quote from: fj11.5 on November 02, 2012, 01:31:31 AM
will fit, I'm using a 16mm r6 radial mc, so you won't have any trouble
Thanks, just the awnser i was looking for:-)
I am about to order lines from speigler, and they need to know what m/c would use.
I have seen people refering to 14/16 and 19mm cylider, but im not sure what the mm indicates?
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on November 02, 2012, 01:57:13 AM
Quote from: fj11.5 on November 02, 2012, 01:31:31 AM
will fit, I'm using a 16mm r6 radial mc, so you won't have any trouble
Thanks, just the awnser i was looking for:-)
I am about to order lines from speigler, and they need to know what m/c would use.
I have seen people refering to 14/16 and 19mm cylider, but im not sure what the mm indicates?
Cheers
Ken
I was also about to order from Spiegler a few weeks back and was a bit shocked at the price.
I ended up getting mine from Venhill for literally half the price and I'm very happy with the product.
At least have a look at them, rather than kick yourself later, and if you still want Speigler at least it's an informed choice.
Noel
Thanks Noel
I'll be sure to check out venhill too:-)
Quote from: keand3 on November 02, 2012, 01:57:13 AM
I am about to order lines from speigler, and they need to know what m/c would use.
I have seen people refering to 14/16 and 19mm cylider, but im not sure what the mm indicates?
That number is the diameter of the piston bore of the master cylinder. The R1 master is 14mm.
DavidR.
RPM also has Nissin radial master cylinders.....
Thanks a lot guys:-)
Cheers.
Ken
Finally, I've got my wheel in today, and a R1 14mm m/c!! :good2:
The wheel have seen better days I'm afraid, but some sanding, priming and paint would do the trick.
The only thing the dealer forgot to ship, was the wheel assembly or mounting? Not 100% sure on this mecanical language :-)
I can't seem to make up my mind, should i buy new axel,spacer etc for a FJ89 to mount on my Fj89 forks, or should i buy the FZR mounts instead? Since the rim being fzr And all?
Here is a picture of the rim.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_04_11_12_3_08_47_0.jpeg)
I also got a hold of this R1 m/c, damn those things get sold fast! Didn't know they were in such high demand!
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_04_11_12_3_08_50_1.jpeg)
After putting the m/c on the bike, i realised that there were no place to screw the reservoir. How have you guys done it?
Cheers
Ken
Ken,
Re: mount for the reservoir..... I made a bracket to go from the upper clamp bolt of the right bar to the urine cup. Works just fine.
Arnie
Thanks Arnie.
Will try to make something out:-)
Quote from: keand3 on November 04, 2012, 07:07:30 AM
I can't seem to make up my mind, should i buy new axel,spacer etc for a FJ89 to mount on my Fj89 forks, or should i buy the FZR mounts instead? Since the rim being fzr And all......
Ken, why don't you test fit your existing axle, speedo drive and spacer first?
You may be pleasently surprised....
Replace those wheel bearings, don't chance it....
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 15, 2012, 11:36:52 AM
It's the same wheel as the FJ wheel, only it's 3.5" wide....the dealer is wrong. We know more than he does.
Everything that fits the 17" FJ wheel, fits the '87/88 FZR rim, axle, spacers, speedo drive, rotors, everything.
Pat,
I was under the impression that axel, spacer and other parts from the stock 16" wheel would not let me to bolt on the 17" FZR wheel, that i needed a 17" stock wheel to do that?
I might have been misstaken, and not paid enough attention when i have reading this forum... Will give it a try later today, if time, kids and wife allow it :sarcastic:
The wheel bearings on the FZR wheel looks fine so I'm gonna keep'em on, no point in replacing for the sake of replacing :yes:
If turns out that I do need new axels, spacers etc, both the 17" fj or FZR is available new in The Netherlands. The prices weren't to high either:-)
Cheers
Ken
Might be my mechanical skill that is the reason, but I did not manager to mount the wheel with the parts from the 86 Wheel.
Hmm.. Will check the manual, hopefully I have only done something wrong :greeting:
Cheers
Ken
I had no issues mounting my 87/88 FZR1000 wheel to my 89 forks. Used my 86 speedo hub and spacer with the 89 axial. Piece of piss. And since the bearings were not that expensive and the front end is so critical I put new ones in. Post up picks were you think you are having issues.
Hi.
Probably not the smartest thing to start working on the bike, when it's winter afternoon, -10C and dark, and straight from work.
The I figured it out..
I went out to take another look, and it turns out that my kid (3 year old boy) have had some fun in the garage. He too wants a bike and do mechanical things :-)
Daddy shouldn't have all the fun! To my disappointment the wife agrees, so i am kinda put in the corner.. he he..
He had manage replace the axel with an another similar one. (god knows were i found that one). Of course he need one too so it was only fair that I gave him mine :wacko3:
Will make a new try tomorrow. Should go just fine.
New brakelines was ordered today. $163 with shipping. The local dealership would charge me $248 for some standard rubber hose!!
Cheers
By the way FJmonkey, what kind of tyres do you have on your FZR rim?
I am running the Dunlop Q2, 120 x 70 up front and 170 x 55 in the rear. The 180 rubs the chain harder than I think is wise. Other brands seem to fit 180 x 50 and clear the chain on other FJs. I am getting ready to replace the rear, I have over 6K on it. The front is too new so not sure what mileage to expect. I was using Avon AV45/46 when I had the 16" wheels and getting a little over 3K per set.
Are you happy with the Dunlop? Have only seen good reviews on it. :good2:
Manage to get the wheel on by the way.. :-)
Delivering it for sandblasting and powdercoating on Monday, so the wheel bearing had to go.
Is there any aftermarked bearings that i should consider over the originals? Those beings are pretty cheap so i might as well go for the best :good:
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on November 09, 2012, 10:30:42 AM
Are you happy with the Dunlop? Have only seen good reviews on it. :good2:
Manage to get the wheel on by the way.. :-)
Delivering it for sandblasting and powdercoating on Monday, so the wheel bearing had to go.
Is there any aftermarked bearings that i should consider over the originals? Those beings are pretty cheap so i might as well go for the best :good:
Cheers
Ken
I am happy with the Q2s, I am certain they offer way more than I can take out them. If you ride in the rain or wet rooads you might consider something else. The reviews were not too friendly on their wet traction. My opinion of is also lacking any experience on other 17" tire brands, I would likely be happy on many of them as well. The Conti Attacks are also getting really good reviews.
I got my bearings from Randy, only quality stuff in his shop.
Hi.
Noticed a fault with my rim, in the area were the brake disk odds mounted, there is s area that seems to have been grinded down.
It's hard to find a good rim, so I wound get your opinion on what top do.
Could the rim still be used, or should i replace it?
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_10_11_12_10_12_32.jpeg)
Cheers
Ken Andersen
Take some more pictures from different angles. The bolt hole looks crooked in that photo and it is difficult to see the full extent of the issue.
Randy - RPM
Send it back.
Here's another picture..
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_10_11_12_2_41_59.jpeg)
Quote from: keand3 on November 10, 2012, 02:44:10 PM
Here's another picture..
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_10_11_12_2_41_59.jpeg)
That is not a usable wheel...
There is impact damage at that area where the rotor was hit and the bolt hole & mounting flange have been distorted.
Randy - RPM
Yup, thats what i thought too.
The dealer thought i might have another one, so he would check tomorrow.
He mummeld something about this rims are hard to come by and that a lot of them were in bad shape etc etc...
I guess i doesen't like an unhappy customer.. Now i understand why i got this rim so cheap.. :dash2:
Cheers
Ken
Just wondered, if I'm not successful finding a new usable rim this winter, i still have my 86 wheel i could use.
But i would prefer to still use the blue dot calipers, but will the fit to the 16" rim? In guessing i might need a new rotor with a different size then stock..
Ken,
I know there's a motorcycle breaker over here that sells a lot of used bike parts.
Last time I checked, they had an early model FZR rim for sale. Dirty but perhaps workable.
Here's the pic they sent me:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/medium_1639_12_11_12_4_47_02.jpeg)
Perhaps worth sending them an e-mail?
Here's (http://www.spinnin-wheel.se/) their website.
Cheers,
Nat
Thanks Nat.
Hmm.. It's a Swedish site.. That would probably reduce the shipping coat substantially.
I will send them an email.
Cheers,
Ken
Quote from: WhiteBeard on November 12, 2012, 04:48:47 AM
Ken,
I know there's a motorcycle breaker over here that sells a lot of used bike parts.
Last time I checked, they had an early model FZR rim for sale. Dirty but perhaps workable.
Perhaps worth sending them an e-mail?
Here's (http://www.spinnin-wheel.se/) their website.
Cheers,
Nat
Hi Nat.
A delayed answer, but anyway, they were sold out :negative:
But no worries, i got my local dealer to get me a new rim without any flaws.
It obvious that he tried to rip me of delivering a bad rim.. Won't bee using him again..
Ken
Finally order some new brake disc's, but since my FZR rim didn't come with bolts to attache the rotors i need to buy some new ones.
Anybody who knows of any good aftermarket bolts, or should i orders some OME's?
Cheers
Ken
I have found that the oem Yamaha rotor bolts are soft and heavy. Easy to strip out.
My local hardware store (Ace Hardware) had some stainless steel button head bolts which are harder and lighter and worked just fine.
ooooh yea, they are shiny....me likey shiny doo dads..
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/49_13_12_09_8_52_29.jpeg)
Oooo.. Shiny.. Me likey tooooo :yahoo:
So in other words, I could use other bolts as long its the same dimensions :scratch_one-s_head:
By the way, order a new top fairing from fairing.net too... It should arrive in 6 - 8 weeks.. Can't wait! :wacko3:
What's it look like.
Is it custom.
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on December 11, 2012, 03:49:57 PM
What's it look like.
Is it custom.
It looks like the original, but is made from glassfiber.
I did think about changing it completely, but i prefer the original.
Don't think it would bee so nice to look at had i made some custom changes.
Have a spare top fairing though.... Not i its best condition, but with some plasticwelding it could bee.
Might put it out for sale..
Got my new brake disc rotors in just before Christmas, so i was rather happy with that "gift" to my self. :good2:
Wife not that happy though, but she doesn't ride,so won't get it :wacko2:
Also waiting on new brake pads and spin-on adapter from Randy's, so now all my new parts are soon in house..
Except for the fairing.. Will post picture of it when it arrives. I guess others here are curious on how it looks..
Cheers
Ken
For sure, I for one am interested in having a look, did you go with the standard style or twin headlight type
I order the standard one.
Must say i am very satisfied with his customer service, no bullshit.
The only thing i was a bit sceptical about was prepaying but the guy has excellent reputation.
Hopefully it would arrive during January.
Cheers
Ken
By the way, anyone know if an rear wheel FZR1000 89' has been fitted or attempted to on a FJ?
Cheers
Don't bother:-) Found it :-)
Okey, I just figured out that I have been slopy, and the rim i bought was not an FZR1000, but an FZR600 rim! I have not yet checked the difference, but i pretty sure the 600 is 3" and 3,5"..
I might have used the 600'n, but since i recently order a new tyre and all i might ass well sell the 600 rim.
Well, then it's back to scratch again.. :negative:
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on December 29, 2012, 01:47:39 PM
Okey, I just figured out that I have been slopy, and the rim i bought was not an FZR1000, but an FZR600 rim! I have not yet checked the difference, but i pretty sure the 600 is 3" and 3,5"..
I might have used the 600'n, but since i recently order a new tyre and all i might ass well sell the 600 rim.
Well, then it's back to scratch again.. :negative:
Cheers
Ken
I did the rear wheel mod using a 92' GSXR 750 wheel. Super easy mod. Basically as easy as a simple wheel removal and install. Add two 4mm thick 20mm inside dia. washers and decide where to mount the forward attach point of the caliper support arm.
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on December 29, 2012, 02:55:15 PM
I did the rear wheel mod using a 92' GSXR 750 wheel. Super easy mod. Basically as easy as a simple wheel removal and install. Add two 4mm thick 20mm inside dia. washers and decide where to mount the forward attach point of the caliper support arm.
Fred
I did the same (92' 750 GSXR, in Periwinkle) on my 86', easy bolt on mod. I added a mount point on the swing arm for the under-slung brake, other than that, just spacers and a nice fat rear tire.
Yes, i have thought about the GSXR change. It seems easy and straightforward as you say.
Thought i might do the rear wheel conversion next winter :pardon:
Will spend this summer gathering parts for the rear..
Thanks for the tip on the washers, did not know about them :smile:
As i mentioned in my last post, i had the wrong rim for the front conversion. I solved it by buying a 91 fzr1000 front wheel on ebay.
Total cost with shipment to Norway $116.. That's cheap compare to $450 that it would cost me home in Norway!!
Thought i seemed a bit to cheap but i have bought topp stuff from him before.
The rim had been cromed which has started to peel of. But since I'm having it sandblasted before paint it really does not matter.
Well, i only thought i would start with something small and simple when i started modding.. Well... I was wrong. This is an addiction
Cheers
Ken, just curious, what's your plan on adapting the 17mm bearings used in the FZR rim, to your 15mm axle?
Quote from: keand3 on December 29, 2012, 01:47:39 PM
Okey, I just figured out that I have been slopy, and the rim i bought was not an FZR1000, but an FZR600 rim! I have not yet checked the difference, but i pretty sure the 600 is 3" and 3,5"..
I might have used the 600'n, but since i recently order a new tyre and all i might ass well sell the 600 rim.
A 1990 FZR600 should have a 3.0" wheel. Not sure on the other years, but a quick look suggests that they'd be 3.0 width until the big redesign that showed up in 1994. A magazine test from the era says that the 94 model had "new wider wheels" but failed to say exactly what sizes they went to or started from.
Carry on.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 29, 2012, 03:49:10 PM
Ken, just curious, what's your plan on adapting the 17mm bearings used in the FZR rim, to your 15mm axle?
Not sure i undersans your question, but would that mean that the 91 fzr rim would need an axel to big for my 89 forks? I thought the 91 fzr1000 rim were simiar to the 87/88 fzr1000 rim..
Hmm if that isen't the case, i haven't got my facts right and i would be stuck with another unusable rim :dash2:
Quote from: keand3 on December 29, 2012, 11:52:26 PM
Not sure i undersans your question, but would that mean hat the 91 fzr rim would need an axel to big for my 89 forks?
The FZR 1000 87/88 front had 15mm axial, after that they went up to a thicker 17mm axial. If only they made the right size bearings to fit the newer wheels to the 15mm axial.
Quote from: FJmonkey on December 30, 2012, 12:04:00 AM
Quote from: keand3 on December 29, 2012, 11:52:26 PM
Not sure i undersans your question, but would that mean hat the 91 fzr rim would need an axel to big for my 89 forks?
The FZR 1000 87/88 front had 15mm axial, after that they went up to a thicker 17mm axial. If only they made the right size bearings to fit the newer wheels to the 15mm axial.
Thanks, i would try to se if the seller would let me change the rim to an earlier model..
By the way, anyone know the size of the 91' FZR1000 forks and can comfirm it? If ive got my facts right this time they are 43mm? To upgrade to those forks would mean replacing more then just forks..?
Cheers
The '91-'93 FZR1000 forks are upside down forks with 17mm axle (I have on my '84 see pictures)
The '89 and '90 FZR1000 forks are conventional with 43mm stanchion tubes and 17mm axle (FJ is 41mm)
The '87 and '88 FZR1000 rim uses a 15mm axle.
We have been telling you to get a 87/88 FZR rim for a reason.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 30, 2012, 12:51:07 AM
We have been telling you to get a 87/88 FZR rim for a reason.
:good2:
Well, I'll get there, eventually. FZR rims in general is easy to find, 87/88 not so easy :wacko3:
It could be fun to replace forks as well, but that's for another time :good2:
Before i make a fool out of my self (maybe too late:-) i would guess this rim would fit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-FZR750-FZR1000-GENESIS-87-88-FRONT-WHEEL-/321041893101?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D4515670068213773356%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D321041893101%26 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-FZR750-FZR1000-GENESIS-87-88-FRONT-WHEEL-/321041893101?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D4515670068213773356%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D321041893101%26)
Not sure if my info will be any help, , I bought what was supposed to be an 87/88 fzr1000 front rim, turned out to be an fz1 rim , that takes a 22mm axle, no luck with bearings, so had 2 steel shims made so I could use my 15mm axle and all is good , some here have shimmed 15>17mm without problems
Quote from: fj11.5 on December 31, 2012, 03:27:51 AM
Not sure if my info will be any help, , I bought what was supposed to be an 87/88 fzr1000 front rim, turned out to be an fz1 rim , that takes a 22mm axle, no luck with bearings, so had 2 steel shims made so I could use my 15mm axle and all is good , some here have shimmed 15>17mm without problems
Thanks for the tip.
It seems like i manager to track down one of the few 87/88 rims on ebay, hopefully :good2:
I was able to cancel my order on the 91 rim, luckily..
I recently bumped into this site, anyone been there before?
http://www.fjcatalogue.com/catalog/item/7303420/8542647.htm (http://www.fjcatalogue.com/catalog/item/7303420/8542647.htm)
I was searching more info regarding rear wheel conversion on the FJ.
Looks like on this site you can buy all the parts you need for the FZR conversion. You would only need to add either a 17" nor a 18" FZR 87/88 wheel.
Cheers
Quote from: keand3 on January 01, 2013, 04:38:57 PM
I recently bumped into this site, anyone been there before?
http://www.fjcatalogue.com/catalog/item/7303420/8542647.htm (http://www.fjcatalogue.com/catalog/item/7303420/8542647.htm)
I was searching more info regarding rear wheel conversion on the FJ.
Looks like on this site you can buy all the parts you need for the FZR conversion. You would only need to add either a 17" nor a 18" FZR 87/88 wheel.
Cheers
Phil Hacker has been developing and testing mods to FJ's for many many years and knows what works and what does not.
If Phil is selling it as a kit then it will work and work well.
Just be aware that to purchase from Phil you need to join the UK FJ owners club.
I used to be a member but for personal reasons I decided to let it lapse.
Looks like a good wheel mate :good2:
Quote from: fj11.5 on January 01, 2013, 06:50:19 PM
Looks like a good wheel mate :good2:
Yes i thought so too. But i can't decide which size i should go for.
I am planning next winters project, and rear wheel conversions is one of them.
Not surev it will end up with the FZR, but will give it some thoughts.
Guys, any thoughts to what's most desirable of 17" and 18"?
Cheers
Ken, easy......availability and choice of 17" rubber wins hands down. I have done both 17" and 18" conversions so do have experience with both.
Harvy
Quote from: Harvy on January 01, 2013, 11:58:49 PM
Ken, easy......availability and choice of 17" rubber wins hands down. I have done both 17" and 18" conversions so do have experience with both.
Harvy
Thanks Harvey. Is the chain alignment the same on birth of them?
Did you experience any difference from 17" to 18" when riding?
Cheers
Ken, no alignment problems with the Genesis 18" wheel swap..... fitting the lower profile tyre does in my opinion improve handling a little.
I now have FZ1 swingarm and forks with FZ1 wheels, so the FJ is a different proposition completely...... I believe the main contribution to handling is 1/2" shorter FZ1 forks with Racetec internals and the ~2" longer swingarm with Penske 3-way shock and adjustable dog-bones with the rear end 2mm clear of the ground when on the centre stand. To my mind, I don't think I can improve it any more. The FZ1 swing arm did involve some chain alignment issues, but not insurmountable, and well documented by several here beside myself.
Harvy
So, if i understand you correctly, changing the swingarm to a FZ1 swingarm will give a greater handling then just the wheel change.
Its obvious that a swingarm change would require more mechanical skills then with just the rim, but we do have looooooong winters up here so i might give it a go :good2:
Did you use FZ1 oem brakecaliper etc. too?
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on January 02, 2013, 01:20:49 AM
So, if i understand you correctly, changing the swingarm to a FZ1 swingarm will give a greater handling then just the wheel change.
Its obvious that a swingarm change would require more mechanical skills then with just the rim, but we do have looooooong winters up here so i might give it a go :good2:
Did you use FZ1 oem brakecaliper etc. too?
Ken
Surprisingly not that much more mechanical skills. Yes I used a complete 2002 FZ1 rear end (swingarm, brake caliper/caliper bracket & torque arm, wheel including sprocket and disc, and axle). A bit of ingenuity (ie. a stack of appropriately sized washers) to accommodate the FJ's offset shock, ~2mm off either side of the swingarm pivot, flip the rear sprocket and buy a '86 Honda VF1000R 18 tooth countershaft sprocket which you machine flat on one side. Replace the rear brake light switch at the master cylinder with a banjo bolt pressure switch. Buy a pair of Soupys adjustable dogbones or make your own. Jobs done!
No machining of any part on the wheel or sprocket carrier.
Harvy
I find that theres so many different types of mods to do with the FJ, that it almost becomes s problem deciding which one to do :pardon:
I think I'll go for the conventional FZ1 conversion for now. Need to have something to do next winter :-)
So far I have changed the forks, rotors and calipers, brake master cylinder and new speigler brake lines. Only waiting on the FZ1 rim to arrive before the front is complet. Spin-on oil adapter is awaiting to be fitted.
I am considering changing the clutch line and clutch m/c, is FJR m/c the way to go? In the process should the clutch also be changed, or modified?
Been reading a lot on this forum lately, and i miss a thread that covers exhaust, or more specific, what type of exhaust (slip-on/silencer) that fits the FJ. See people here have a variety of diffrent brand etc.
Cheers
Ken
Ken, yes there are so many mods and if time and money are limited and you can't do everything at once consider some sort of order like safety, reliability, comfort, performance and convenience.
Safety: better front brakes and lines, which you've done, 17"wheels for better rubber F & R. better headlight if you ride at night and better blinkers and stop/tail even if you don't, better mirrors and depending how bad yours is, suspension.
Reliability: carb o'haul and screw kit, petcock upgrade, relays to the coils and lights and a late model starter, oil cooler.
Comfort: Suspension, seat, depending on you and where you live, handlebar risers and heated grips, better screen, vibranators and good riding gear.
Performance: Air filters, jetting, exhausts, red and white paint job, expensive oil, gearing.
Convenience: Spin on filter adapter, power outlet, hardwired GPS and phone mounts, blutooth, good tank bag and luggage.
There is probably heaps more and everbody has different priorities but just think, after safety, what is going to make this bike more fun to ride.
My bike is a '93 and only had 34,000k's on it when I bought it but the first thing I did was dismantle it until there was only the motor sitting in the frame and the wiring loom. I did this mostly to detail it, it had come from a farm at the end of a dirt road, and do fork seals, wash, repack and adjust the head stem bearings and rear suspension linkages and check ever nut and bolt on it.
Myself and a lot of others here are very happy with the Delkevic slip ons. They are very reasonably priced and I love the look and the sound of them.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/6950062498_5f804cf960_c.jpg)
DISCLAIMER: This is not intended to be an absolute list of what and which order things should be done and while everyone is free to make their own suggestions, this is merely something I did myself to establish priorities and was somewhat fluid depending on time, money and weather. Don't start correcting it or we'll end up with another oil thread, it is only a suggestion.
Noel
I like the "performance" enhancing red and white paint job. Well done :smile:
Derek
Wow, thanks a lot Noel! I really did not think of putting it in a prioritized system, but i definitely has it's advantages :good2:
I would like to disassemble the bike completely to, but i do want to get some more mechanical experience first, since I'm not trained in this and have never owned an older bike like this before last year.
Damn, i used to change my lightbulps on my old VW Golf 2 like easy peasy, but now, in any new car (allmost) you have to take off the entire front just to change them! Not all new electronics is necessary a good thing...
So as we say i Norwgian, "Det var da som svarte faen! Den satans tysker driten!"
Anyway, I think i might do the rear wheel during this summer since i expect it not to be a big job.
I know a carb o'haul, jetting and the famous second gear fix (mines in first actually) will come eventually, but that would be next winter i guess.
I'll be sure to check out Delkevic :-)
(http://C:%5CUsers%5CMelissa%5CPictures%5C2011%2012%2012%20Mexico%20to%20Panama)
I have always loved to see photos of bikes overloaded or doing things that are not normal. This photo is from my trip from Canada to Panama and is near San Jose, Costa Rica at a beautiful little restaurant where I had stopped for lunch. There is actually a trunk there underneath the smaller second set of saddlebags. The bigger Harley bags are full of tools. The FJ is just a workhorse of a bike.
Greg
Quote from: 93fj1200 on January 05, 2013, 12:33:33 PM
This photo is from my trip from Canada to Panama...
"C:\Users\Melissa\Pictures\2011 12 12 Mexico to Panama"
Greg,
we can't see the photo, `cause you're pointing to a picture on your local computer.
Put it out on the web (Photobucket, etc.) and then point to THAT instance of it.
We wanna see, we wanna see...
Steve
Quote from: Steve_in_Florida on January 05, 2013, 12:47:06 PM
Quote from: 93fj1200 on January 05, 2013, 12:33:33 PM
This photo is from my trip from Canada to Panama...
"C:\Users\Melissa\Pictures\2011 12 12 Mexico to Panama"
Greg,
we can't see the photo, `cause you're pointing to a picture on your local computer.
Put it out on the web (Photobucket, etc.) and then point to THAT instance of it.
We wanna see, we wanna see...
Steve
Thanks for the tip Steve. I put the photo in the FJ photos along with some from my trip through Mexico with the Santa Muertes M/C (over 300 members) from Mexico City. If anybody ever needs help while in Mexico City, let me know, I lived with those guys for four months in their clubhouse. Most fun I have ever had as a biker!!! Also have connections in a lot of other places in Mexico too. Can you take the photos from facebook? If anybody is interested, I have a lot of great photos of my adventures in facebook. Send me a note telling me you are from this Forum. My facebook name is Gregory Hunter (z28gh@hotmail.com). Always good to have friends all over the place.
Thanks mate, request sent:-)
For those who are interested, feel free to add me too on facebook. Name is Ken Andersen (keand3@gmail.com)
I don't have those breath taking scenary photos yet, but there will be..
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: ribbert on January 05, 2013, 09:37:57 AM
Myself and a lot of others here are very happy with the Delkevic slip ons. They are very reasonably priced and I love the look and the sound of them.Noel
Did 400k's today to make sure I wasn't giving Ken a bum steer. Yes, I do like the sound of them (baffles out)
Swore to NEVER EVER ride around the coast in the middle of Summer holidays again.
Sick of everyones FJ photos with exotic natural backgrounds, I took this in protest.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8191/8353587800_eecf6d02a4_c.jpg)
Saw this on the way home. I had to ride one of these many moons ago for a Honda promotion and developed a real affection for them. It would never occur to me to use a CX500 for such a project but it was really well done and looked good from every angle and the attention to detail spot on, love the front end.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8470/8352526493_e6e027d84c_c.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8219/8352522713_4f3ef34e96_c.jpg)
Thought of Dave when I passed a house with an outboard motor for a mail box, couldn't tell if it was a Victa.
Saw enough Harley riders to get all philosophical and ponder what conclusion aliens would draw about the human race if they snatched a group of them to study.
Wondered if the power of positive thinking alone could fix my slipping clutch.
Noel
Noel,
Which part of the coast did you trickle through today :-) and where did you take that pic?
I didn't go down to GOR, but the line of traffic going that way was disturbing.
Arnie
Quote from: Arnie on January 06, 2013, 07:20:12 AM
Noel,
Which part of the coast did you trickle through today :-) and where did you take that pic?
I didn't go down to GOR, but the line of traffic going that way was disturbing.
Arnie
Arnie, I trickled everywhere I went.
The photo was taken between Portarlington and Indented Head.
Noel
Noel, to do 400k's just to prove your point is admirable :yes:
But then again you did them on the fj soo..... :good2:
I have check those mufflers out, and they look great. Cheap too..
Have seen the have different departments around the world but only the us site that specific offer slip ons to three FJ(correct me.if. I'm wrong)
Have contacted the UK dep. and asked, all though three shipping cost might not be any cheaper. Haber experienced that shipping from UK often is more expanding than from the US.
Noel, here's a challenge.
Post a sound recording :good:
Ken
Ken,
Leon on this board already posted some videos of his Delkevics.
Here's one: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4829.msg42554#msg42554 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4829.msg42554#msg42554)
/Nat
Quote from: ribbert on January 06, 2013, 07:04:28 AM
Saw this on the way home. I had to ride one of these many moons ago for a Honda promotion and developed a real affection for them. It would never occur to me to use a CX500 for such a project but it was really well done and looked good from every angle and the attention to detail spot on, love the front end.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8470/8352526493_e6e027d84c_c.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8219/8352522713_4f3ef34e96_c.jpg)
Noel
That is beautiful, my CX didn't look that nice when it was new. Sweet!!!!
CraigO
Since this thread is becoming rather long I figured I might just keep on posting on it. Hopefully any newbie (like me) to modding will take advantage of it and all the good advice I have received!
Your help and support guys has been priceless! I would have been left in the dark without it, so thanks a lot :yahoo:
Finally my FZ1 rim has arrived! And this time I manage to get the correct year model too... :dance:
But it has seen better days :scratch_one-s_head: But with some sandblasting and powdercoating it will look like new again :rofl:
Here the 88 FZ1 Rim. Looking at it makes me wonder if the previous owner ever washed his bike?!?
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_09_01_13_10_13_16_0.jpeg)
I also bought my self a 89'+ 17" FJ rim. Figured that it would bee nice to have a spare rim just in case.. It will get the same treatment as the FZ1 one..
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_09_01_13_10_13_19_1.jpeg)
While I still was in the wheel modus, i bought my self some new rubber. Pirelli Angel ST Front 120/70 ZR17 TL 58(W)
I have had really good experience with Pirelli privously, and figured out I would try them again.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_09_01_13_10_13_22_2.jpeg)
Have a nice day!
Cheers
Ken
Got an email from Spain and fairings.net today. My new top fairing is finished and will bee shipped tomorrow!
Will post a picture as soon as i get it! :good2:
Cheers
Ken
Fairing pics are always good ,, that fz1 wheel looks like just how mine was, coveted in crud but not as damaged :biggrin: ,, , very nice cx, that's how Honda should of made them
Yup.. As long as the rim is not damaged it's amazing what you could do. Have seen a lot of aftermarket rims that might fit the FJ, butI think the FZ1 and FJ rim does look the best.
Don't know how log it would take to deliver the fairing, but hoping it's not too long.. :biggrin:
will you be swapping the rear wheel for something larger, gsxr is an easy swap, and same spoke pattern if you go for pre 93
Quote from: fj11.5 on January 12, 2013, 05:05:51 AM
will you be swapping the rear wheel for something larger, gsxr is an easy swap, and same spoke pattern if you go for pre 93
Yes i will do the rear wheel as well. Haven't decided yet if it will be the GSXR or FZR modification yet, but sometime during this summer it will be done. Re painting the fairing is setting me back a bit :nea:
You should be surprised how much better the wheel swap makes the bike, even just the front,, while your painting the fairing , mine could do with a freshen up when you have time, ill supply the Toyota paint :biggrin:
Send it right over :good2: I'll get my 3 year old son to do your while I'll get mine done :greeting:
You might end up with a funky color combination thought :crazy:
Looking forward to try the bike with the new front wheel, too bad the winter is too long here...
All though we do have some motorheads that fit their bikes with winter tyres and ride all year round... Can't imagine the size of their insurance bill though...
Regarding clutch master... It's been bugging me some time now, that i do not have the same color on my clutch line as i do on my front brakelines on my old 1TX..
So I'm guessing I'm ending up with that mod too and with a new m/c... :wacko3:
After what I understand, allot of you guys prefer the FJR clutch master, and i might go with that. But for the sake of curiosity, is there any other clutch master would you recommend? (other then stock of cours)
My stock one is working fine for now, but when changing the line I'll do the m/c as well..
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on January 12, 2013, 11:47:04 AM
Regarding clutch master... It's been bugging me some time now, that i do not have the same color on my clutch line as i do on my front brakelines on my old 1TX..
So I'm guessing I'm ending up with that mod too and with a new m/c... :wacko3:
After what I understand, allot of you guys prefer the FJR clutch master, and i might go with that. But for the sake of curiosity, is there any other clutch master would you recommend? (other then stock of cours)
My stock one is working fine for now, but when changing the line I'll do the m/c as well..
Cheers
Ken
Ken, I used a clutch m/c from a '02 Honda VFR. These are readily available and cheap. It has a similar appearance to stock and doesn't look out of place. Also, rebuild kits are cheap and easy to obtain. Regards, Pete.
I've fitted a 14mm one from a kawasaki , pretty much any nissin made one will fit , and look like standard Fj ones ,
Changing the topic a bit.
Were looking into airfilters the other day, and by the looks of it, the air filters on my bike hasn't been change in a decade..
Before I go a head and order new ones from randy, is there other things i have to take into consideration when changing the airfilters? Easy to say I'm not going for stock filters, but those nice ones with black foam on :good2:
Cheers
Ken
I recommend the UNI dual pod filters, as they actually filter, K&N let more dirt in. You many need to re-jet as the pod filters have less restriction and change the air/fuel mix. Randy can give you good advice on what you will need depending on what you chose to do.
Thanks Mr Monkey :yes:
Yes, I were looking at the UNI ones. Have had bad experience with K&N filters on cars, so I would think twice before use K&N on my precious :pardon:
Have never done a re-jetting before, so I'm guessing that would result in the need for more tools and know how knowledge :dance2:
Quote from: keand3 on January 14, 2013, 02:16:58 PM
Thanks Mr Monkey :yes:
Yes, I were looking at the UNI ones. Have had bad experience with K&N filters on cars, so I would think twice before use K&N on my precious :pardon:
Have never done a re-jetting before, so I'm guessing that would result in the need for more tools and know how knowledge :dance2:
Jetting should not be to difficult. I think you can access them with the bowls off, the needles might need to be raised. You can change out the needles and set/change the clip-ring to the groove you need from the top caps. Not sure if you need to change the air/mix screws, if so then you will need to pull out the factory plugs, also not to difficult. You will want to balance your carbs after all that. Mostly basic tools for everything else. Too bad your not in SoCal, I work for beer.
Hmm..
I might just have to take my bike over to the US by ship and container, ride it from the west coast to SoCal and then forget the beer at home :biggrin:
(have actually thought of doing that some time in the future)
Been searching youtube for hints and tips, but there is no mechanical "how to do" with the FJ. There is from many others, but It would be more pleasing to see a video like that with the FJ.... Might have to make them my self then...
Let me re-phrase what Monkey said:
"You WILL have to shim the needles, you MIGHT have to change some jets."
DavidR.
And, in addition to what the local carb guru (below) said....
Making these changes is very easy, you can do it with "normal" tools, and the hardest part - getting the carbs off the engine is easy once you've removed the airbox and replaced it with the Uni DualPod filters.
Hint: To remove the airbox and/or carbs first remove the 2 x 17mm head bolts on either side of the battery holder, then rotate the seat subframe down at the back. This will give you room to work.
Arnie
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on January 14, 2013, 04:14:10 PM
Let me re-phrase what Monkey said:
"You WILL have to shim the needles, you MIGHT have to change some jets."
DavidR.
"Hint: To remove the airbox and/or carbs first remove the 2 x 17mm head bolts on either side of the battery holder, then rotate the seat subframe down at the back. This will give you room to work.
Arnie "
:good2: :good2: :good2: If you do that it will make the job a lot simpler.......
Thanks! Will try it when the time comes :sarcastic:
I'm guessing installing the crankcase breather filter too would bee a good idea?
I did read up on carb and jetting in Haynes manual. It looks straight forward, only need the measurement gauge.
Did take a look on the carb earlier to day and realised that the fitting cap on carb 1 is missing, (were the vacuum hose goes). I guess that missing this cap would affect performance on carb 1?
After what i can see those items are listed as Yamaha part: 16G-13569-00-00 and 90467-10039-00 and availability is scares! Seen some showing it in storage, but i would not be supprised if the didn't have it.
Does anyone have any good suggestion to what i can replace them with if not using stock?
Guessing jetting would have to be done anyway.
Cheers
Ken
If that vacuum cap is missing you will be very lean on #1. You will also be way out of sync causing additional vibration.
You don't need to use the Yamaha cap, but do cap it with something. Even a piece of tubing that is plugged and folded back on itself (and wired) will stop the vacuum from escaping.
Any time you change the exhaust or intake systems on any engine you will have to check and likely adjust jetting.
Arnie
Quote from: keand3 on January 15, 2013, 12:51:30 PM
Thanks! Will try it when the time comes :sarcastic:
I'm guessing installing the crankcase breather filter too would bee a good idea?
I did read up on carb and jetting in Haynes manual. It looks straight forward, only need the measurement gauge.
Did take a look on the carb earlier to day and realised that the fitting cap on carb 1 is missing, (were the vacuum hose goes). I guess that missing this cap would affect performance on carb 1?
After what i can see those items are listed as Yamaha part: 16G-13569-00-00 and 90467-10039-00 and availability is scares! Seen some showing it in storage, but i would not be supprised if the didn't have it.
Does anyone have any good suggestion to what i can replace them with if not using stock?
Guessing jetting would have to be done anyway.
Cheers
Ken
I have the vacuum caps listed on my website.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on January 15, 2013, 09:18:32 PM
I have the vacuum caps listed on my website.
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy! Not many keep this in their inventory.. Those items might not be in demand perhaps..
I am putting in an order soon and will add the vacuum caps to the list :good2:
Cheers
Ken
Ps.
Money can't buy happiness. But it's better to cry on a FJ then on a bicycle :sarcastic:
Randy, might be my searching skills sucks, but I can't seem to find those vacuum caps.
Are they sold individually or in a set of some kind?
Ken
Finaly!! I Ppicked up my rims from painting today.
What y'all think?
FJ Rim
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_21_01_13_12_45_13_1.jpeg)
FZR1000 Rim
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_21_01_13_12_45_10_0.jpeg)
Man you must like to clean. black wheels don't show brake dust but white ride once clean for a week. :yes:
Quote from: tqmx1 on January 21, 2013, 01:52:34 PM
Man you must like to clean. black wheels don't show brake dust but white ride once clean for a week. :yes:
I might fall under the category of a perfectionist, and they might need more cleaning then others, but then again white rims just look awesome!!! :good2:
Quote from: keand3 on January 21, 2013, 02:37:03 PM
Quote from: tqmx1 on January 21, 2013, 01:52:34 PM
Man you must like to clean. black wheels don't show brake dust but white ride once clean for a week. :yes:
I might fall under the category of a perfectionist, and they might need more cleaning then others, but then again white rims just look awesome!!! :good2:
I'm with you Ken, love the white wheel look but I'm not that keen about cleaning! Pete. :hi:
I would love to see how them beauties look on the bike.
When summer comes, I'll have to decide whether to polish my new rims or send them off to get powdercoated.
I'm leaning towards polishing...
:greeting:
Quote from: WhiteBeard on January 21, 2013, 06:29:50 PM
I would love to see how them beauties look on the bike.
When summer comes, I'll have to decide whether to polish my new rims or send them off to get powdercoated.
I'm leaning towards polishing...
:greeting:
You could polish then acrylic powder coat in clear, easier to keep clean. All the wheel manufacturers do this.
Quote from: oldktmdude on January 21, 2013, 06:01:51 PM
I'm with you Ken, love the white wheel look but I'm not that keen about cleaning! Pete. :hi:
I don't mind the cleaning but if i really did like to clean i would have bought my self a Harley and not a FJ :good:
Have some friends of mine and they all drive Harley. Taking a ride with them consist of two things,
A 1 hour drive, and three hours with cleaning and beer. I could do the beer but not the cleaning.
Cheers
As others have said, and I can attest to personally, white wheels are a pain in the ass. I have frequently wanted to smack the Japanese design engineer guy that thought, "you know what the GSX-R 750 needs? -White wheels!" Seriously, they are tough to keep clean, especially the front. Trying to work around the rotors without getting any cleaning solution or polish on the rotors is a first class pain in the ass.
They do look good though.
Good luck.
Dan
I think the Japanese engineer had a bad day at work :yes:
Yes keeping unwanted substances away from the rotors will be a challenge. But for now i think its worth it, it will be an upertunety to a have a beer :rofl:
Don't ask me after the summer though, might have change my mind by then. :good2:
Cheers
Ken
When I got my FJ from the PO, it had white wheels. Now they are black. Though the white wheels looked nice, they were a major pain to keep clean and never really got clean. Always some dirt stuck in the hard to get to recesses and defied me at every turn. The black hides a lot of sins.
CraigO
Quote from: craigo on January 22, 2013, 11:43:06 AM
When I got my FJ from the PO, it had white wheels. Now they are black. Though the white wheels looked nice, they were a major pain to keep clean and never really got clean. Always some dirt stuck in the hard to get to recesses and defied me at every turn. The black hides a lot of sins.
CraigO
Black is nice too, and yes hiding of sins is a big plus :yes:
Might just consider it if I were to change color sometime in the future..
Just don't bother cleaning them and they will eventually turn black all on their own. :-)
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on January 22, 2013, 03:53:34 PM
Just don't bother cleaning them and they will eventually turn black all on their own. :-)
DavidR.
Hearing that advice from you David, makes it that much more funny.
Dan
Thanks Dan, I guess I should have waited for Dean to relay that advice. :-)
The EBC Kevlar pads that I recently installed on my front wheel are driving me crazy. They cover the entire front end and engine with black dust after only a few hundred miles. And, I don't brake that often or hard while riding around here. This is just coming to normal stops.
I've had these Kevlar pads waiting to go on forever, but I might go ahead and make the swap to the HH pads if they don't settle down.
DavidR.
the first gsxr wheel i had was white, if it would of cleaned up i would of painted the front wheel to match, but white is a bastard as everyone has said
Regarding my front wheels, they were $10 over the free customs import fee and sales tax limit...
The result?
A bill sent by Norwegian customs by mail one week later on $50 for handling fee and import fee... (the rim cost $35)......
Thank good for beer!
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: ribbert on January 05, 2013, 09:37:57 AM
Ken, yes there are so many mods and if time and money are limited and you can't do everything at once consider some sort of order like safety, reliability, comfort, performance and convenience.
Safety: better front brakes and lines, which you've done, 17"wheels for better rubber F & R. better headlight if you ride at night and better blinkers and stop/tail even if you don't, better mirrors and depending how bad yours is, suspension.
Reliability: carb o'haul and screw kit, petcock upgrade, relays to the coils and lights and a late model starter, oil cooler.
Comfort: Suspension, seat, depending on you and where you live, handlebar risers and heated grips, better screen, vibranators and good riding gear.
Performance: Air filters, jetting, exhausts, red and white paint job, expensive oil, gearing.
Convenience: Spin on filter adapter, power outlet, hardwired GPS and phone mounts, blutooth, good tank bag and luggage.
There is probably heaps more and everbody has different priorities but just think, after safety, what is going to make this bike more fun to ride.
My bike is a '93 and only had 34,000k's on it when I bought it but the first thing I did was dismantle it until there was only the motor sitting in the frame and the wiring loom. I did this mostly to detail it, it had come from a farm at the end of a dirt road, and do fork seals, wash, repack and adjust the head stem bearings and rear suspension linkages and check ever nut and bolt on it.
Myself and a lot of others here are very happy with the Delkevic slip ons. They are very reasonably priced and I love the look and the sound of them.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/6950062498_5f804cf960_c.jpg)
DISCLAIMER: This is not intended to be an absolute list of what and which order things should be done and while everyone is free to make their own suggestions, this is merely something I did myself to establish priorities and was somewhat fluid depending on time, money and weather. Don't start correcting it or we'll end up with another oil thread, it is only a suggestion.
Noel
Okey, been checking up a bit on new slip-ons for my bike, and planing on doing it this summer. It looks like most of the slip-ons i have found will interfer with the luggage bags. Is there any specific model for ex. from Delkevic that is a bit lower or similar to stock in height?
I might have been looking at wrong types though but i see the FJ UK site offers a Beowulf that fit with luggage..
Make sure to ask the UK club about shipping costs to Norway before you make up your mind.
I was ready to place an order on a whole lot of parts, only to find out that the shipping.to Sweden would be ridiculously high.
Not sure why, though. I've gotten stuff sent over here from England before, with no problems at all.
Just my 2c.
Nat
Quote from: WhiteBeard on January 29, 2013, 01:09:18 PM
Make sure to ask the UK club about shipping costs to Norway before you make up your mind.
I was ready to place an order on a whole lot of parts, only to find out that the shipping.to Sweden would be ridiculously high.
Not sure why, though. I've gotten stuff sent over here from England before, with no problems at all.
Just my 2c.
Nat
Tack för tipset :good2:
I just realiced that you are from Sweden! I do know there are many FJ riders up north in Scandinavia, but didn't realise that there were any in this forum :mocking:
If you ever find your self on the "Harry tur" route to Norway and Sandefjord stop by for a coffee :good2:
Regarding shipping cost I too have found that shipping out of UK is so much more expensive then the rest of the world. Have ordered parts from Aussie that had lower shipping cost then UK. Amazing.
Cheers
Ken
Ingen orsak! :good2:
The only time I ever saw another FJ was up in the north of Sweden, it seems they're a bit rare over here.
I might take you up on the offer later on, I've been planning for a tour through Norway for some time now.
Maybe this autumn...
As for the UK Club, I was going to buy a 17'' rim from them but they claimed the shipping costs were so high that it wasn't even worth bothering.
:negative:
Maybe this has changed since then. It's too bad, since they have so many nice things for sale... so I always go with RPM instead. GREAT costumer service (as you might know already)...
Cheers!
Nat
Well... if the UK Club want to sell to international customer then the do have to ship as well..
I bought my fzr front rim in the UK, deliver at my door for £35.. Not so bad, so they are able to get that cost down by choosing another shipping carrier perhaps..
Yes they do have nice products but I think RPM is way better by a long shot! :good2:
Both on price and shipping cost :yes:
Cheers
Okey so i have started with installing the new bearings on my front rim.
But being a newbie and all to this mechanical stuff i would like some help and tips.
I have installed the bearing on one side, but I'm am unsure if its properly installed. The picture might not bee good, but from your trained eyes does it need to be driven further in?
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_31_01_13_9_04_16_1.jpeg)
PS. The excessive grease have been wiped of for the picture.
I just installed front bearings on a wheel I am selling and took pictures. That bearing looks seated, it will not go much further. I use a drift and tap the 4 compass points to make sure it is in and seated flat. You can tell when you tap the drift if the hit felt solid or like it gave a little. The sound is distinct. Don't forget to put the spacer in before the second bearing.
Thanks Mr. Monkey :good2:
Yes the sound is distinctive.. All bearings and spacer is greased neatly fitted. :biggrin:
Rubber goes on next week :good:
Cheers
Ken
Did mount the barkedisc and the new tire is going on tomorrow :yahoo:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_03_02_13_3_41_54.jpeg)
Been waiting for mye new fairing for a while now and i'm starting to get worried the won't arrive.
Not that i thing Jean at fairings.net hassen't sent them, but i fear that they might have lost their way from Spain...
The shipment i sent without a tracking number, so its hopeless trying to track it..
Waiting fr an replay from Jean regarding an estimated shipping time. 4 weeks from Spain to Norway is a bi long
That looks just like my wheel, same rotors as well.... They look really good...
keand3-
to check if both bearings are seated correctly.. slide a finger through one bearing to feel the installed spacer between the 2 outer bearings, there should be no movement side to side of the spacer.
When you torque down the axle/nut, everything (spacers/bearings/washers/brake hangers..etc) compress to make it all solid.
Hope that makes sense.
Oops I just realized that this for the front wheel.. plz go back to your regularly scheduled programming!
Tony
Ken, you may have already thought of this but just in case you haven't, get your tyre fitter to fit a 90 degree valve stem to your new front wheel. Makes checking pressures so much easier with the larger diameter brake rotors. Regards, Pete.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 07, 2013, 07:19:50 PM
That looks just like my wheel, same rotors as well.... They look really good...
Well... it was you who posted the link for this knockoff Galffer disc for me in another thread :yes:
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: oldktmdude on February 07, 2013, 08:08:31 PM
Ken, you may have already thought of this but just in case you haven't, get your tyre fitter to fit a 90 degree valve stem to your new front wheel. Makes checking pressures so much easier with the larger diameter brake rotors. Regards, Pete.
Hi Pete!
Yes indeed I have :yes:
But thanks for the tip!
Fairing update:
Spoke with jean at firings.net today. There had been some cutsoms related issue, so the Norwegian customs had stored the packaged for a while before they decided sending it back to Spain. D'hoo..
It was shipped out again to me four days ago.. So we'll see what happens.
Pictures will be posted straight away when it arrives :good2:
Quote from: keand3 on February 08, 2013, 02:46:40 AM
Well... it was you who posted the link for this knockoff Galffer disc for me in another thread :yes:
Cheers
Ken
Happy to help then, I have over 6K miles on them and they are holding up really well. Use the HH rated pads, good bite when you grab the brakes and very little brake dust. And my thanks to LA_Mike for testing them first and recommending them. :good2:
Okey so I'm of to pick up my wheel with the new tyre and i had a look at my new front wheel axeI.
At the end of the axel there is drilled 4 holes, and i can't seem to figure out what they are for?
Can't find anything in the Haynes manual either.
I'm guessing it's for a saftypin or something simliar.
The axel is a stock 89' +
Cheers
Ken
would be for a split pin, as you thought, though its usually the rear axle that has them, as the front is threaded in the fork, and the nut dousnt go on far enough to expose the thread,, well not on my 2 sets of 88/89 forks
Thanks.
Then it was as a assumed. It dosen't expose the threads on my forks either :good2:
Do you tighten the nuts and bolts to the spesific tourqe setying, or do you do it by feel?
Dince I have some tourqe wrenches laying around i figured i might as well do it by the book :yahoo:
Woulden't have the old girl turn nasty on me :greeting:
Cheers
May as well play it safe, seeing as you have the right tools :good2:
the 86 used a longer front axle that went thru the fork and used a castle nut and cotter pin.
the 89 axle just threads into the left fork and is torqued to spec. use a good torque wrench as it is common to strip the aluminum threads.
compare the axle lengths to make sure you have the right one. the 89 is shorter.
if you strip out the threads you can use the 86 axle after you machine the left fork leg .
My LBS heli-coiled the fork and found a different axle, without the cotter pin holes. We felt the holes were contributing to the threads demise, by acting as a cutter every time the axle was removed or replaced... I don't know what the new axle was for or the part number.
Mounted the front wheel today. my new stock axle went straight in :yes:
I also mounted the calipers and the new brakelines from Speigler. But i think the fittings on the line might be a bit off? The are slightly angled so the lines tends to bend inwards to the tyre.
My old lines also did this, but i can't remember it was that much.
I took a photo of it, and you could see the lines and what i mean. I could turn the fittings but the they would lean outwards to much i think. Take a look.
And before someone comments my filthy and dirty forks, I know. They do need cleaning. But since "my" house only allows me one girl inside at the time :sorry:, she is stored in my unheated garage and the temperature outside is -20 Celsius! So using water is a no go :good2: They'll just have to wait :i_am_so_happy:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_12_02_13_6_25_07_5.jpeg)
Here's a better pictures of the wheel.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_12_02_13_6_24_51_0.jpeg)
Oh by the way... For those of you have followed this thread and know about me ordering a new fairing, it has arrived!!!
I will try to pick it up today before work and take some pictures and post it.. But my timeframe is scares so don't anticipate any :scratch_one-s_head:
When I installed my front brake lines I pointed them out, away from rubbing or slapping against the fender. They will work just as well either way.
Okey, thank you ranger!
Will leave them like this for now then and rather see if I need to do something when the fender is mounted.
Cheers
Your front wheel, forks, rotors look great. With those rotors, you may consider ordering the 90 degree tire valve stem from Randy @ RPM. Getting a pressure gauge and air line past the rotors is a pain.
Fred
Yes it would be prefers with the 90 degree tire valve.. I do have them, but stupid me forgot all about them when i delivered the rim and tyre to the shop..
Quote from: keand3 on February 12, 2013, 01:40:23 PM
Yes it would be prefers with the 90 degree tire valve.. I do have them, but stupid me forgot all about them when i delivered the rim and tyre to the shop..
Then get it next tire change, it was pain with the stock wheel and rotor so I put the 90s on. Well worth it. Get the low profile ones, I have to rotate the front one as it dosn't clear the rotors.
Like this, the color will match your rotors.
(http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=cfe8639901d708d298a1e741ee77a919&attachmentid=414586&d=1279583846)
Excellent! Nothing beats matching up the colors :good2:
The low profile looks very good :i_am_so_happy:
Cheers
0key guys. As promised here's the pictures of my new top fairing :good2:
A bit of info first.
It looks greate and seems to bee of high quality.
The only downside with it is that there ain't no mounting brackets, or fairing bracket if you like (don't know what theY are called)
This mounts i have to manufacter, but it shouldn't be that hard. Got a friend that makes fiberglass boats, and knows theproduct well. He will assist me in making high quality mounts.
Cheers
Ken.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_14_02_13_6_35_33_2.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_14_02_13_6_35_36_3.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_14_02_13_6_35_30_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_14_02_13_6_35_27_0.jpeg)
looks like it should paint up nicely mate,, what was the damage to your wallet,,
Quote from: fj11.5 on February 16, 2013, 12:01:43 AM
looks like it should paint up nicely mate,, what was the damage to your wallet,,
Since the wallet allready was empty, no damage done :good2:
With shipping it came on just above €300..
nice, good price for a new one, bet originals are just a bit more, ,
Yes I guess so.
But OME fairings are hard to find (new ones Impossible) and since moast of them are used, thay also need some kinda repair.
I figured out I might as well buy a new one and make the mounts myself. :smile:
Okay, so I'm waiting for my carb sync. tool from Motion Pro to arrive.
I have seen this aux fueI ''tank" from MP, but think it is over priced..
Anyone who has a tip for a homemade one?
a cheap aux fuel tank is to use a radiator over flow tank . you can get the universal one from auto parts store for cheap.
Thanks.
Will look into that. Keep em comming :good2:
Cheers
Ken
Take your seat off and place the fuel tank where your seat was, with the front of the tank facing the rear of the bike. This way you won't need an axillary tank to sync your carbs.
Thanks!
Guess I could wait with the sync. until the fuel tank comes back form paint :pardon:
Cheers
Quote from: markmartin on February 17, 2013, 12:21:02 PM
Take your seat off and place the fuel tank where your seat was, with the front of the tank facing the rear of the bike. This way you won't need an axillary tank to sync your carbs.
Nope, not with that bike. The tank switcheroo works with the fuel pump models, not with the gravity fed FJs.
At least I've never figured out how to do it on my '84. It works like a charm on my '92.
Dont need one theres enough go juice in the carbs.If you do need one just fill a squirt bottle or something similar and just refil the fuel line as needed.
A 50 or 60cc disposable syringe works fine, just remove the plunger. You can wrap a wire around it and hang it from the bar. Visible level so you know when to add more juice and the tapered tip fits right into the fuel line.
Arnie
This is what I use for a temporary fuel supply. If I want to ride it in this state for tuning, I move it a little foreward and ocky strap it to the frame.
The fans are from a refrigerator cabinet being thrown out at my local supermarket.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5072/7175620716_b5d501034c_c.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8026/7175616466_4dd71833ef_c.jpg)
Noel
Thanks a lot for the input. I will figure something out..
The bike has been standing sometime and the lady needs to be started.
Cheers
Started my bike today for the first time in 4 months, and she fired right up :good2: Well.. almost.. Since I had drained the system and carbs for fuel before putting her away, it did take some time to get the fuel in her system. But once it was there... boom! she starts right up! Not bad for girl in her late 20's :good:
Anyway, there are a few thing I've learned today.
1. Don't ever never mess with the rubber fuel lines! I did rearranged them a bit to fit my home made auxiliary fueltank, but the hoses just kept on leaking.. So i put them back and no fuel leak. I just kept on feeding the hose with a disposable syringe. Thanks Arnie it worked really great :good2:
2. I've realised how filthy and dirty my bike was at those area you normal don't see... Phu.. It would need to be cleaned.... sometime..
3. The OME airbox is just in the way and needs to go.. :pardon:
Is it correct that the master carb is carb nr. 3 on the 86' 1200?
Cheers
Ken
Okey, so I'm trying to figure out how I'm gonna make my new brake reservoir mounting bracket, but lack ideas.
It really shouldn't bee that hard to do, but still..
So to get some ideas on how to make on that will look good and not stand out to much, I would like your help and tips if you may (which this forum always do :good2: )
Is there anyone how have done the R1/R6 14mm brake m/c mod that would bee so kind to take some photo of their reservoir bracket?
Cheers
Jon Cain special...
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/IMG_1319_zps4e9793a9.jpg)
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/IMG_1320_zpsdfb9ad36.jpg)
Exactly what i am looking for! :good2:
Did you make it your self or bought it?
Ken
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 17, 2013, 02:02:47 PM
Quote from: markmartin on February 17, 2013, 12:21:02 PM
Take your seat off and place the fuel tank where your seat was, with the front of the tank facing the rear of the bike. This way you won't need an axillary tank to sync your carbs.
Nope, not with that bike. The tank switcheroo works with the fuel pump models, not with the gravity fed FJs.
At least I've never figured out how to do it on my '84. It works like a charm on my '92.
,, to synch the carbs on my 84 i fitted a slightly longer vaccume line and slide the tank back enough to reach the carb screws, , on the 84 ambulance just switch it to prime and with a longer fuel line just swap ends with the tank, no running issues at wot under load as yet ,, oh and plug the vaccume to carb
Quote from: keand3 on February 22, 2013, 03:08:31 PM
Exactly what i am looking for! :good2:
Did you make it your self or bought it?
Ken
Jon Cain (JCainFJ) made that one for me... :yes:
Quote from: not a lib on February 22, 2013, 03:35:58 PM
Quote from: keand3 on February 22, 2013, 03:08:31 PM
Exactly what i am looking for! :good2:
Did you make it your self or bought it?
Ken
Jon Cain (JCainFJ) made that one for me... :yes:
I might be able to fab some of them up at my work. Some basic dimensions would help. I can get the hole centers for mounting off my bike, I might be able to fake the rest.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 22, 2013, 05:59:55 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 22, 2013, 03:35:58 PM
Quote from: keand3 on February 22, 2013, 03:08:31 PM
Exactly what i am looking for! :good2:
Did you make it your self or bought it?
Ken
Jon Cain (JCainFJ) made that one for me... :yes:
I might be able to fab some of them up at my work. Some basic dimensions would help. I can get the hole centers for mounting off my bike, I might be able to fake the rest.
I'll measure it for you tomorrow. :yes:
Thanks guys. I really appreciate it! :good2: :yahoo:
Is the Mikuni carburetors on the 85' FJ600 the same as the on in 11-1200?
I accidentally came across this video on youtube, and it got me puzzled.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdfH_kodoSU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdfH_kodoSU)
I am thinking of taking out my carbs for a nice clean and a inspection, since i have the time before the riding season starts.
I also noticed the previous owner have to be sloppy with cleaning his bikse, since the screws and area around the carbs are really filthy and covered i black sticky stuff...
Also if i do have to rebuild them, a video showing me how would be great since it would be the first time doing it.
By the way, I have search Youtube for videos om mechanical maintenance and repairs on FJ, there are non! Only all other bikes! Strange or are they all just well maintained? :good2:
Ken
Ken, I am currently undergoing my first motorcycle carb cleaning. Rebuilt a few for my cars, Rochester 4 barrel on my 66' Olds was easy stuff. Someone posted a clip on YouTube for cleaning Muniki carbs that was really good. Consider getting the RPM carb fastener kit. It replaces all the Phillips fasteners with hex sockets, no more stripped screws. http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit&cat=24. (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit&cat=24.) I am glad I have these because one of the screws on the rail is buggered and I had to slot it with my Dremmel to get it off. I am getting a parts list together for RPM so I can reassemble and get my Kookaloo back on... Best of luck and speed to you....
It seems fairly straight forward with some patience and all the parts needed at hand.
Thanks for the tip on the fastener kit! :good2:
It is tempting just to send the carbs away to get them done for me, but the cost for that here i Norway is astronomical!! I bet i could shipped them around the world to be done elsewhere shipped back and still save money! :good:
I have seen Randy has New Mikuni Carburetor Assembly and it would be tempting but its set-up for pumps and i don't think I will bee converting to pumps..
No matter what happens, it will involve some beers :yes:
Ken
I am sure Randy will quote you on GF carbs, he rides an 86' as well.
Im sure he will :yes:
I might send of an email and ask, heck all the parts will be coming from him anyway so.. :yes:
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on February 24, 2013, 01:18:40 PM
Is the Mikuni carburetors on the 85' FJ600 the same as the on in 11-1200?
I accidentally came across this video on youtube, and it got me puzzled.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdfH_kodoSU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdfH_kodoSU)
Ken
That vid of the FJ600 carbs is pretty close to the FJ1200 carbs.
Some points to caution you about.....
The float pivot pin posts frequentlly do break if you just hit the pin to move them. Be careful and support the post before you use a properly sized drift to move it.
US bike carb needles only have a single groove for the C clip. Other markets usually have 5 grooves. If you remove the C clip (no real reason to) make a note of which groove it was in.
Do NOT use a steel screwdriver to tap on brass jets!! Use a properly sized drift, preferably made of brass, aluminum, or hardwood.
Lifting the slides by the diaphram is asking for trouble. Put your finger into the carb throat and lift the slide from the bottom, then there will be enough metal of the slide exposed for you to grab it just below the diaphram and remove it.
If you're dis-assembling the carbs to clean them, replacing the fasteners and O-rings with the kit Randy sells is a Vgood idea.
Arnie
Also while you have the carbs off. Pull the plastic intake manifolds off and replace the O rings there.. They are cheap and an air leak there can lean things out. Be careful with the manifolds they are plastic.
I took a few min. extra and lapped the diaphragm's covers and carb body tops with fine wet or dry on a flat surface. It is not unheard of where the Phillips head screws go (tip: replace with S.S. hex head screws) holding the diaphragm's caps, get bent because of previous owners over tightening them making it hard to get a seal with the O ring's. Just take a flat surface and some fine wet or dry and hit them real quick to check for flatness. Is that a word ?
Rebuilt mine last winter. No problems. I used a small finishing nail to tap out the float pins. As mentioned support the pins and tap lightly. DO NOT bang on them. They will break. Mine came out real easy. I replaced every jet, needle and emulsion tube with new from Randy's. After 20 plus years it was due I think.
George
A few tips on float pin maintenance:
As other have already said, be very careful getting them out.
Once out, use some 600 grit sandpaper to take a bit off the OD.
When re-installing the float pin, DO NOT press it all the way in! Leave a small gap between the head and the post. Next time you need to remove them, use an old knife blade to pry between the head and the post to pop them out.
Don't worry about the pin falling out, it's trapped my the float bowl.
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on February 24, 2013, 09:34:44 PM
A few tips on float pin maintenance:
As other have already said, be very careful getting them out.
Once out, use some 600 grit sandpaper to take a bit off the OD.
When re-installing the float pin, DO NOT press it all the way in! Leave a small gap between the head and the post. Next time you need to remove them, use an old knife blade to pry between the head and the post to pop them out.
Don't worry about the pin falling out, it's trapped my the float bowl.
DavidR.
I replaced all of my float pins with the mandrels from 1/8 pop rivets, cut to the appropriate length. These are a loose fit but as DavidR said they are trapped by the float bowl. I have been using them for over 3 years without any problems. Regards,Pete.
Thank you guys for all the good tips. The carb rebuild job is added to my to do list, and the parts needed isent that expencive either :smile:
Will follow the monekys carb job first before i do mine.
Cheers
Hi folks...
Nice weather and a slightly higher temp. made an excellent opportunity to install Randy's Spin-on!
I also did remove the front sprocket cover..... never should have done that! Almost needed a shovel to get all the dirt out.. Must have been like that for years. Poor girl..
Still need a lot of cleaning...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_25_02_13_11_57_41.jpeg)
This is how the girl look as of this moment.. Hmm.. need more space in my garage. Would like to have some workbenches and stuff but. It'll do for now :nyam1:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_25_02_13_12_11_53.jpeg)
Looks good. With the sprocket cover off its a good time to wipe down the chain and re-lube. I use kerosene (Coleman Lantern Fluid) to clean/wipe my chain. Doesn't stink to much and it cleans pretty good. You will like the spin on filter. Seems to make the job of changing oil go a lot faster and cleaner. Keep up the good work :)
George
Quote from: movenon on February 25, 2013, 12:31:39 PM
Looks good. With the sprocket cover off its a good time to wipe down the chain and re-lube. I use kerosene (Coleman Lantern Fluid) to clean/wipe my chain. Doesn't stink to much and it cleans pretty good. You will like the spin on filter. Seems to make the job of changing oil go a lot faster and cleaner. Keep up the good work :)
George
Coleman Fuel is white gas (naptha)... not sure I'd use that on a chain. :scratch_one-s_head:
Ummm. OK, I just wipe it off. I don't soak it. Any recommendations? A new chain is on the short term shopping list. The one on it was from the PO and isn't the best. For now I just moderate my riding style accordingly.
George
I don't know what Coleman fuel actually is, but straight Kerosene is fine to clean chains, and is what Suzuki recommend in their factory service manuals.
BTW Jet fuel is highly refined Kero, in case you have access to that.
Arnie
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coleman_fuel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coleman_fuel)
As Arnie said, actual kerosene would be okay.
I usually a WD-40 soaked rag.
Quote from: Arnie on February 25, 2013, 06:35:11 PM
I don't know what Coleman fuel actually is, but straight Kerosene is fine to clean chains, and is what Suzuki recommend in their factory service manuals.
BTW Jet fuel is highly refined Kero, in case you have access to that.
Arnie
Yea, I use to have an unlimited ability to get JP4 and JP5....... The supervisor of the Fuels shop always drove diesels....... I wonder why ? Use to take jet fuel, fuel samples and dump it in the diesel generators. Easier to dispose of....
George
Quote from: not a lib on February 25, 2013, 06:44:04 PM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coleman_fuel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coleman_fuel)
Funny, it says you should not use lantern fuel in your internal combustion engine..................I have tried it the other way around, and have used unleaded gasoline in my coleman lantern on a few different occasions........It worked just fine...(I probably wouldn't cook with it though) :bad:
WD-40 is my grunge cleaner of choice too.
Dan
Quote from: Firehawk068 on February 25, 2013, 10:48:34 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 25, 2013, 06:44:04 PM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coleman_fuel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coleman_fuel)
Funny, it says you should not use lantern fuel in your internal combustion engine..................I have tried it the other way around, and have used unleaded gasoline in my coleman lantern on a few different occasions........It worked just fine...(I probably wouldn't cook with it though) :bad:
Back in the day, I was commuting to a factory on a CB360.
When I got off work at midnight, my bike wouldn't start. I found that a couple of practical jokers had drained tha gas out of it. Being the last one out, I convinced the night watchman to let me back in. I went back to the chemical cage, drew a large beaker of naptha, and poured it into the Honda. It ran well enough on it to get me about 10 miles ot the nearest open gas station.
The responsible parties made the mistake of parking their bikes side-by-side several days later... as their co-workers all rode away, they found that their rear wheels were chained and padlocked together. :biggrin:
Quote from: movenon on February 25, 2013, 06:27:36 PM
Ummm. OK, I just wipe it off. I don't soak it. Any recommendations? A new chain is on the short term shopping list. The one on it was from the PO and isn't the best. For now I just moderate my riding style accordingly.
George
As Arnie has suggested Kero is the goods for chain cleaning.
It's cheap, it is the only thing recommended for O and X ring chain and it works perfectly, which you can't improve on.
No reason to muck around with other stuff unless you can get something for free, but just remember, it's an expensive exercise of you dissolve those O or X rings. It's not just what works on cleaning but also what won't wreck the rings.
Noel
Kero it is then :-)
The chain shows evidence of some early stages of corrosion.
Here is a rough draft, still need to work out the details. I might need standoffs, depends on how the clamp top cap is shaped.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/104_01_03_13_9_10_15.jpeg)
That Iooks really good! Do you want me to upload a picture of the clamp top cap?
Mark, make sure to use the impact driver, or (fj) monkey wrench :lol:
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on March 01, 2013, 11:20:35 AM
Do you want me to upload a picture of the clamp top cap?
I will take a look at the one on my bike this weekend. Then I can set the dimensions and post up a drawing for others to verify.
:good2: :good2: :good2:
Pulled of my front sprocket cover today. lt seriously needs a good cIean out. Looking forward to hours with toothbrush :negative:
Anyway, since a lot of this is new to me, I wounder if the clutch slave needs rebuilding? Judging from the picture I would guess so.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_01_03_13_1_22_58_0.jpeg)
Remember reading somewere in another thread on this forum not to use DOT 5 or 5.1 on the clutch line? Wouldn't be a problem, i would just have to buy something else. DOT 4 maybe?
Quote from: keand3 on March 01, 2013, 02:30:23 PM
Remember reading somewere in another thread on this forum not to use DOT 5 or 5.1 on the clutch line? Wouldn't be a problem, i would just have to buy something else. DOT 4 maybe?
DOT3, 4, & 5.1 are glycol based, and compatible, as long as they meet specs of whatever you're using it in.
DOT5 is silicone based, and is not compatible with any of the others.
A few of us have converted everything on our FJs over to DOT5.
One nice thing about DOT5 is that it does not eat paint or ABS plastic like the others do.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid)
Thanks.
Well, I bought enugh DOT 5.1 for all my lines so I will go for that
Have to clean out the clutch slave and se if it needs rebuilding. Did work fine before so an cleanup should do it :good2: :smile:
So I took a look at the bar camp issue and found some differences. See below.
The OEM clamp is like this:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8108/8522111199_d5da4a24d1_b.jpg)
Some clamps are like like this:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8235/8522112191_38b32cf749_b.jpg)
This can screw up my design.
If the bolts are in a vertical position and OEM then I can add some short stand-offs and make my bracket work.
So, what do I need to design this to fit???
Not sure what you are asking for, but bolts clamp on my 97 R1 M/C is in a vertical position.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_03_03_13_12_45_03.jpeg)
Never seen an FJ with an off switch for the headlight. Motorcycle lights have to be on at all times in Canada since before the birth of the FJ.
Quote from: keand3 on March 03, 2013, 12:46:30 AM
Not sure what you are asking for, but bolts clamp on my 97 R1 M/C is in a vertical position.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_03_03_13_12_45_03.jpeg)
Good, my design will work, I will try to post up a more refined looking draft of the bracket and how it interfaces with the clamp top early this week.
Quote from: fj johnnie on March 03, 2013, 06:45:47 AM
Never seen an FJ with an off switch for the headlight. Motorcycle lights have to be on at all times in Canada since before the birth of the FJ.
Never given that any thought when I think about it.. I do know cars are not delivered to Norway with a lights off option (newer cars) It's required by law to always have driving lights om in Norway. Might be that it was delivered before this law came.
Quote from: FJmonkey on March 03, 2013, 08:18:59 AM
Quote from: keand3 on March 03, 2013, 12:46:30 AM
Not sure what you are asking for, but bolts clamp on my 97 R1 M/C is in a vertical position.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_03_03_13_12_45_03.jpeg)
Good, my design will work, I will try to post up a more refined looking draft of the bracket and how it interfaces with the clamp top early this week.
You the man! GO POWER RANGER :good2:
So i got across this great deal on an F4i shock, and really don't know to let it go or grab it. I get it for free since a friend is parting out one of his bikes.
To honest I haven't focused so much on the rear shock at all. Just waiting for Randy to come up with something great :good2:
go read the f4i shock thread and decide for your self. free is always a good deal.
Quote from: Mark Olson on March 04, 2013, 12:20:52 PM
go read the f4i shock thread and decide for your self. free is always a good deal.
Yes, I did read that thread, but I can't figure outthe fitting of the shock an my 86. Will it bolt straight on or will some maching be required. Maybe i didn't read the right thread?
Cheers
as i have 2 84,s no dog bones, f4i bolts up easily, , and an 88 f4i shock needs mods, , i think your 86 should be set up like the 84,s? ? and you should only need a bushing, or bearing/s for the bottom mount, but someone here that knows more than me should have info you need about the 86 ,, cheers rod, ,, or post a pic of the lower mounts for your shock
Quote from: fj11.5 on March 05, 2013, 01:30:21 AM
as i have 2 84,s no dog bones, f4i bolts up easily, , and an 88 f4i shock needs mods, , i think your 86 should be set up like the 84,s? ? and you should only need a bushing, or bearing/s for the bottom mount, but someone here that knows more than me should have info you need about the 86 ,, cheers rod, ,, or post a pic of the lower mounts for your shock
If it's only some bearings and bushing that's needed to fit the F4i shock, then I'm all in :good2:
Would rather had wait for Randy's shock to be available instead of having manufacture bits and pisces to make this shock fit.
88 shocks need mods you say, is there a specific yearmodel I should go for? The donorbike is an 06 I think, not sure.
Cheers
Here's a picture of the shock mount you asked for. It's not a good picture I'm afraid. I could take a new one later today if you want.
Oh, by the way.. The dirt you see covering the upper left corner, were there is shadow, that's is what everything in front of the rear wheel was like... A bitch to get clean! So sometimes I think to my self, why the hell did I start doing it in the first place? :dash2:
Cheers
Ken
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_05_03_13_5_59_12.jpeg)
Hey Ken,
a tip I learned from a British guy on YouTube, try spraying the shit out of the dirty parts with WD-40 and using a toothbrush or soft brush to get the worst away.
Then, when you've gotten the worst off, you go ahead with degreasers and all that jazz.
Works like a charm!
:good2:
Thanks for the tip, and I do think we have seen the same video :good2: (Drivenandridden or something)
Allthoug I tried WD-40 (works great by the way) and brushes, oil and water based degreasers it still is a bitch to clean :nea:
I haven't power washed it yet, since is been to cold to wash it thoroughly.. But the time for that will come. Hopefully soon.
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: WhiteBeard on March 05, 2013, 06:16:10 AM
Hey Ken,
a tip I learned from a British guy on YouTube, try spraying the shit out of the dirty parts with WD-40 and using a toothbrush or soft brush to get the worst away.
Then, when you've gotten the worst off, you go ahead with degreasers and all that jazz.
Works like a charm!
:good2:
This idea of using WD40 as a degreaser seems to have taken on a life of its own from one YouTube clip. It might work but you DON'T need it. At $50 / 4ltr bottle and stupidly expensive by the spray can if you are going to use it for cleaning.
All you need is kero and this, a "parts wash brush" They are used the world over in workshops because they work, and it wouldn't matter which country you bought one in, it would be exactly the same. Just the right stiffness in the bristles and just the right size. I have a dozen or so brushes I use for cleaning vehicle parts, and this one does 99.9% of the work. (the toothbrush is for scale)
(http://www.dansmc.com/partsclean4.jpg)
You may as well use dental floss as a toothbrush on that job.
Even cleaning, like any other job on the bike, is easier with the right tools.
I have just had my rear suspension out and cleaned all the crud off the inside of the sprocket cover. Kero and parts brush, everything spanking clean in 10 mins, and you get to re use the kero over and over.
I can't even contemplate how hard you are making it for yourself doing it this way.
If you are doing it in-situ place a dish of kero under the area you are cleaning, slosh kero all over it with the brush, keep it wet (most of it is dripping back into the dish) and work it vigorously with the parts brush. It helps if you scratch away any thick build up with a screw driver first.
Noel
Thanks Noel.
Yes i do see your point and i after a few times of cleaning, i figured out this must be the hard way :dash1:
I do have bought the karosin, yesterday in fact, and will get a hold of a brush like yours.
I mean the area will always get dirty, and there is no reasons for cleaning it the hard way.
Thanks for the tips :good2:
Were putting on the slave master clutch today when one if the bolts broke whene screwing it back on place.
Any idea how to get the rest out without damaging the threads?
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_06_03_13_3_49_47_0.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_06_03_13_3_49_50_1.jpeg)
Quote from: keand3 on March 06, 2013, 03:54:40 AM
Any idea how to get the rest out without damaging the threads?
Reverse drill bits. The drill has to run backwards, and when the bit catches it will drive the bolt out some of the time. Is any of the bolt sticking out? If so then try to grab it with Vice grips or locking pliers. Or possibly slot it and use a hammer driven impact driver. You can also apply your favorite thread breaking solvent to soak in over night. I have heard that acetone and ATF (50/50) works really well. Best of luck to you.
Thanks for the tip Mark. I don't have a revers drill bits and will get one tomorrow.
Will take of sprocket cover and slave cylinder off later to day if time lets me.
I will be replacing all the bolts though :good2:
Quote from: keand3 on March 06, 2013, 07:51:49 AM
Thanks for the tip Mark. I don't have a revers drill bits and will get one tomorrow.
Will take of sprocket cover and slave cylinder off later to day if time lets me.
I will be replacing all the bolts though :good2:
While you are out pick up an Easy-Out kit. If the reverse drill bit only drills a hole then the Easy-Out can bite into the bolt and twist out the offending fastener. If you have room you might also be able to use a small sharp chisel and tap the bolt out. The sharp blows from the hammer help brake things loose.
I just briefly look over their on-line catalogue, and it looks like the got all kinds of variations of the easy-out kit. Just have to see what would fit.
The bolt is fairly small and can be a hazel to deal with.
It's the bolt listed as nr. 29
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1986/FJ1200S/CLUTCH/parts.html (http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1986/FJ1200S/CLUTCH/parts.html)
Broke off bolt update:
Well... I tried the "Easy-Out" kit with no luck... Yet. I will try again tomorrow.. I do have new SS bolt laying in a bag waiting to be mounted... Why didn't I just replace them when I was screwing it back on? :dash2:
Learning by misstake I guess :scratch_one-s_head:
Pulled of my carbs and gave them a good cleaning today. O'boy do the look different and are now mounted back on the bike eagerly awaiting the new airfilters from RPM :good2:
Cheers
Okey, didn't get to the store yesterday so the easy-out kit will have to wait until tomorrow.
I did however drill some pieces of the remaining bolt..
There is no way it will come out other then with the easy-out kit, or drilling it to pieces all the way through!
I am however a bit concerned that some of the thread might have been damage.. I cant really see if they have, but I am expecting it..
Any suggestions?
I know I can drill new threads, and it is a possability, but wouldn't that just make the hole bigger? Then I would have to expand the holes on both sprocket cover the slave cylinder..
The slave cylinder would probably hold more then enough with just the two bolts, but it will annoy me for ever knowing that one bolt would bee missing!
Cheers.
Ken
Use a tap the same size as the damaged bolt and see if you can dress the threads so it will hold. If that doesn't work then the next step is drill a larger hole and use Helicoils.
CraigO
Quote from: craigo on March 10, 2013, 12:29:16 PM
Use a tap the same size as the damaged bolt and see if you can dress the threads so it will hold. If that doesn't work then the next step is drill a larger hole and use Helicoils.
CraigO
Thanks for the tip Craig. I'll will give it a go :yes:
Here is an update...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8557623769_af5c4e5905_b.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8228/8558732166_bd0de2e1d0_b.jpg)
The current design is based on the clamp bolts in the vertical position and room to use stand-offs to get the bracket clear of the clamp.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8375/8557623789_1da3bc461d_b.jpg)
That looks awesome.
:good2:
You should seriously consider manufacturing some of those brackets.
I for one will get them!
/Nat
Looks great Mark. I'm thinking I might like to have one, no two if you decide to manufacture them. I alreadt have the clutch and brake masters but no urine cups. They would look good with a couple of the billet cups. Like I said before YOU DA MAN. :good2: :good2: Big R
oh so thats they're for,, now i would need two as well :biggrin:
Mark, your design look awsome! It realy would blend nicely with the handeIbar.
There arent amy brackets out there that look good on the FJ
Keep up the good work. Can't wait to fit it on the bike.
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on March 05, 2013, 01:58:21 AM
Quote from: fj11.5 on March 05, 2013, 01:30:21 AM
as i have 2 84,s no dog bones, f4i bolts up easily, , and an 88 f4i shock needs mods, , i think your 86 should be set up like the 84,s? ? and you should only need a bushing, or bearing/s for the bottom mount, but someone here that knows more than me should have info you need about the 86 ,, cheers rod, ,, or post a pic of the lower mounts for your shock
If it's only some bearings and bushing that's needed to fit the F4i shock, then I'm all in :good2:
Would rather had wait for Randy's shock to be available instead of having manufacture bits and pisces to make this shock fit.
88 shocks need mods you say, is there a specific yearmodel I should go for? The donorbike is an 06 I think, not sure.
Cheers
The 01 to 06 f4i shocks arer the ones. For the 86 fj there is minimal effort to make it work.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff :good2:
Okey so my FJR1300 clutch master switch has been stalled and i have decided to get a new Nissin Clutch master cylinder instead.
But can someone explain to me if there is a huge difference between a 14mm and 19mm cylinder? I know the bigger piston would deliver more pressure, im intrested in knowing how it feels like compared to a 14mm, and if i really need a 19mm?
CHeers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on March 24, 2013, 07:41:14 AM
Okey so my FJR1300 clutch master switch has been stalled and i have decided to get a new Nissin Clutch master cylinder instead.
But can someone explain to me if there is a huge difference between a 14mm and 19mm cylinder? I know the bigger piston would deliver more pressure, im intrested in knowing how it feels like compared to a 14mm, and if i really need a 19mm?
CHeers
Ken
That's a 19mm
radial type m/c, right? :unknown:
Yes, 19mm radial :good:
I don't know how to compare the size of "radial" master cylinder bores to "normal" master cylinder bores.
For "normal" m/c the smaller the bore, the easier it is to squeeze the lever.
However, the larger bore units displace more fluid for a given distance moved.
This means that for a given set of calipers.....
A m/c with a small bore will take less hand pressure for a given
amount of disk braking force (squeeze). It will also require more movement of the lever.
You should be able to moderate this easier (and maybe more accurately) than a large bore m/c.
If you have strong hands, you'll be able to get the same braking force with
less movement of the lever on a larger bore m/c, but you'll have to squeeze harder
and may not be able to moderate the braking force as accurately.
Potential problems with each:
Large bore m/c: You may not be strong enough to get maximum braking or to control it
Small bore m/c: You may run out of lever stroke and hit the bar before max braking.
Neither is "better", it is another choice you have to make.
Arnie
Thanks Arnie :good2:
Now i know what to look for. Guess i have to try them out to see what suits me :yes:
Cheers
Ken
Does anyone have a good tip on how to mount the UNI filters?
Everytime i try to tighten them they just slide right of my carbs.
Quote from: keand3 on March 25, 2013, 10:14:28 AM
Does anyone have a good tip on how to mount the UNI filters?
Everytime i try to tighten them they just slide right of my carbs.
Try wiping the surfaces down with contact cleaner, and don't overtighten them.
Thanks. Got them on!
Got the gas tank back on just in time to remember the filter has to be sprayed or oiled as it said in the instruction...
Nahh.. thats a job for tomorrow :-)
Quote from: not a lib on March 25, 2013, 10:37:23 AM
Quote from: keand3 on March 25, 2013, 10:14:28 AM
Does anyone have a good tip on how to mount the UNI filters?
Everytime i try to tighten them they just slide right of my carbs.
Try wiping the surfaces down with contact cleaner, and don't overtighten them.
+1 on this one :good2:
Also found out a long time ago not to substitute standard sized hose clamps - they are wider than the ones that come with the filters and will push the filter off as they are tightened :dash2:
Thanks for the advice guys. :good2:
Yesterday I bought a FZR 17" rear wheel and will be doing the swap later this summer.
But, since i have blue dots on the front i would also like it on the back.
Has this been done before? Does it bolt up just as easy as the front?
The search function diden't give me any hits if irs been done and how..
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on March 27, 2013, 02:28:31 AM
But, since i have blue dots on the front i would also like it on the back.
Has this been done before? Does it bolt up just as easy as the front?
Cheers
Ken
It's on a T/Ace rear end but It may give you an idea or 2
http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm)
I was aware of that article, and did read it, but the article diden't awnser my question im afraid.
But since its designed as a underslung caliper its unlikly it will fit on stock swingarm and caliper mounts..
Will do some more research.
Cheers.
Ken
You might PM "Yamaha FJ Rider" and get acquainted, he is in the beginnings of the conversion. :pardon:
George
Quote from: keand3 on March 27, 2013, 05:21:39 AM
But since its designed as a underslung caliper its unlikly it will fit on stock swingarm and caliper mounts..
You are correct, it won't. Don't worry about it, the FJ rear brake is more than adequate.
There are other more important things to improve (read: modify) on the FJ, besides the rear brake.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 27, 2013, 08:57:45 PM
You are correct, it won't. Don't worry about it, the FJ rear brake is more than adequate.
There are other more important things to improve (read: modify) on the FJ, besides the rear brake.
Thanks, thought i might see if it was possible. Getting it to match up the front wouldn't hurt, but it won't bother me if it don't :good2:
Have slowly started my assembly of the bike today. Started by flushing out the fuel tank and gave it a really good clean and boy am I glad i did that! Was waaaaay too much nasty shit in there.... :negative:
Don't want that in the system.. The fuel petcock was also way to dirty for my taste... Took it of and gave it a good clean to..
But there is something I'm missing, and I just can't figure it out.
When mounting the tank back on, I connect the main fuel line back on the petcock, and there is also a smaller line on the petcock and I don't know were it goes.
Parts Microfiche - Diagram has i named pipeline 3.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_29_03_13_11_46_28.jpeg)
That's a important line. That is a vacuum line which is connected to your #1 intake port. The vacuum from the engine opens the petcock, and when the engine stops, the loss of vacuum closes the petcock so the petcock does not stay open and floods your engine with gas.
You will see a small port on the petcock where this line attaches and also on the #1 intake.
Your bike needs this vacuum line to properly function.
Thanks Pat :good2:
I kinda figured out i has something to do with vacuum, but didn't know were it went. Turns out I did put a cap on the intake port while the carbs were off the bike, and didn't realise it until now :wacko3:
Any way i reviled another problem with the tank, or the petcock to be more specific.
The previous owner has at some point had the tank and petcock of, but apparently he lost one of the two screws that holds the petcock. Mine is attached with one screw on one side and with a bolt and nut on the other.
An now that I am trying to put it back, am not able to get bolt an nut fasten. The bolt is hold by a nut or something similar on the inside of the tank an can be pushed straight down in the tank.
Any ideas on how to fix it? Hopefully he did not destroy the threads for the screw so it is just to replace it with oem screw, but i would not count on it...
Cheers
If the threads on the tank are buggered (like you assume, a good bet) try drilling and taping the thread with the next larger size, even if it's a SAE thread. Just use the next size up (even if it's not metric) I don't know how much meat you have on the tank threads to drill out for going to a oversize thread and bolt.
I do agree that it's silly to fuss with a nut/bolt application when one side of the connector is inside the tank.
I suggest a new petcock O ring while your down there.
From the size of the bolt i assume it similar to the screw, so most likely it is a buggered threads, yes :dash2:
Will try making a size bigger, but that have to wait until next week.. Easter has every story in this country closed for days. Typical when you need to buy something eh? :sorry:
I am not all to familiar with all this mechanical terms, could you clarify what SEA threads is or means?
Thanks for the tip Pat. :good2:
I forget you are in Norway, everything is prolly metric over there.
In the colonies, we have 2 flavors, vanilla and chocolate, SAE standard and metric.
SAE stands for the Society of Automotive Engineers. The first organization in the world to (attempt to) standardize automotive components and testing standards.
SAE threads are sized based on fractions of a inch...Metric is based on millimeters, vanilla and chocolate .
Cheers lad. Keep up the good work, it will be worth it.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 29, 2013, 04:43:29 PM
I forget you are in Norway, everything is prolly metric over there.
Polly metric indeed! Sometimes it gets a bit to much for my tast, but then again I can't really complain, we have it way to comfy up here :good2:
I pulled out the bolt in the tank today, and the threads weren't ruined so a new screws is all thats needed :good2:
Cheers
Ken
Didn't know if to start a new thread or just continue on this one...
Anyway, have been have some gastank issues lately, and have been forced to fix some cock-up for previous owner... Starting to get a lot now but that's another story.. :nyam1:
After I had the petcock of, I realized that there was a welded containment nut missing and there was no way the petcock would go on before this was sorted out.
I ended up using a nut-sert crimp in replacement of the old one...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_16_04_13_1_24_28_0.jpeg)
No I at least were able to bolt the petcock down, but the nut is 1mm higher then the rest of the area. So, fearing a fuel leak i decided to and a an extra seal.
I bought some rubbercork (don't know the English term for it) which are used to make handmade gaskets etc.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_16_04_13_1_24_31_1.jpeg)
I then cut it to fit (as it turned out, not a nice fit but good enough)
Now the hole area is flush with the top of the new nut, and it should be good to go..
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_16_04_13_1_24_34_2.jpeg)
As you can see the petcock is bolted on with new bolts, o-ring and washers and then mounted on the bike.
The tank was empty so I filled up some few liters of fuel, and after some hour's no leakage. :good2:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2912_16_04_13_1_24_37_3.jpeg)
So if any of you would need to fix your nuts (Did I just say that out loud?) This is one way you could do it...
Cheers
Ken
That's quicker And easier than how I would of fixed it,, safer too, not keen on welding freshly drained fuel tanks :bomb:
Quote from: fj11.5 on April 17, 2013, 06:19:55 AM
That's quicker And easier than how I would of fixed it,, safer too, not keen on welding freshly drained fuel tanks :bomb:
You could have gotten your self an early new years celebration... :lol:
I wanted to 100% sure of a secure fit when was fixing it, would have hated to do it twice. Leaking gas on to a hot engine etc is not something i would like to experience. I dont pay insanly prices for fuel just let it drain out on my :wacko2:
Cheers
:empathy: hmmmm not a bad idea, maybe a few balloons and cake I could make a party out of it :biggrin:
No man says no to party or cake, or both at the same time... (popcorn)
If all goes well, could toast marshmallows over the flaming fuel tank :lol:
Quote from: fj11.5 on April 17, 2013, 07:50:21 AM
If all goes well, could toast marshmallows over the flaming fuel tank :lol:
I am happy to report that the first trip of this year exceeded my expectations by a long shot! The bike was more powerful then what I remembered. There were no unexpected stops for marsmellows and my fuel tank rep. is holding up excellent. :yahoo:
The front end, and the brakes, oh my god the brakes!! :yahoo: With the combination of the FZR rim, blue dot calipers, EBC HH, Speigler brakelines and the R1 brake M/C with adjustable leaver is like arriving to heaven! I really do perfer this set up! It's FJ porn :good2:
The only thing left is to attache the reservoir with the Monkey made bracket :good2: :good: Since the one I've got now is just a temporary one made just for this one trip.
Can't wait to get the back from engine rebuild soon...
My GoPro mount is attached to my helmet so now it's just to start shooting... :yes:
Cheers
Ken
I better get your bracket out on Monday then, I am also tossing in the petcock part you need for electric reserve. The first ride after the winter season has got to be one of the best feelings.... Kookaloo Ken.
Thanks Mark! :good2:
The first ride is undescribable. The down side with it is that moditus kicks in :yahoo:
Cheers
I felt the same way after riding my moditisified FJ too. Good job!!!
Ken, your Monkey Made reservoir bracket and E-Reserve parts were put in the post today.... I hope they fit and serve you well...
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 22, 2013, 07:32:47 PM
Ken, your Monkey Made reservoir bracket and E-Reserve parts were put in the post today.... I hope they fit and serve you well...
Thanks a lot Mark! They will be put to good use :good2:
I'll be sure to use the monkey wrench when fitting them :rofl:
Anyone who knows what the wattage on the instrumentpanel bulb is? Need to change a few but none states the wattage.
Cheers
Ken
Found it, 3,4w. Thanks anyway :good2:
Okey, have been out testing the bike a couple of times now and I have made up some thoughts and question.
The biggest one being the transmition issue ande the famous 2nd gear.
Last year I only had the issue in 2nd gear were it would jump out into neutral around 4500 rpm.
But this year, after I have change the oil from mineral to fully synthetic, it "stutter" some in 1st at 6000rpm, and in 2 gear it no longer jumps into neutral but "stutter" around 6000 rpm. But now it take me all the way into kookaloo zone after that.
I know i need to sync my carbs, and adjust the valves etc, but can this change in transmition attitude be related to the oil change? Also the clutching seems to be more easy allthough the master cylinder is beaten up and will be replaced soon. But no clutch slipping either..
Cheers
Ken
Ken, most that have posted about switching from dino to full synth have bad effects at first. Clunky shifts, slipping clutch etc... these have been reported as early issues, as the miles get put on the issues smooth out and all is well. I had issues when going from semi-synth to full, and the issues smoothed out after a few tanks of fuel. You must have picked some magic oil, the 2nd gear issue only gets worse when you push it, not better.... I wonder if switching to the right oil, I can lose my beer gut????
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 27, 2013, 10:07:11 AM
Ken, most that have posted about switching from dino to full synth have bad effects at first. Clunky shifts, slipping clutch etc... these have been reported as early issues, as the miles get put on the issues smooth out and all is well. I had issues when going from semi-synth to full, and the issues smoothed out after a few tanks of fuel. You must have picked some magic oil, the 2nd gear issue only gets worse when you push it, not better.... I wonder if switching to the right oil, I can lose my beer gut????
Maybe time to start making Monkey Light Brew? Maybe you can develop a zero calorie brew. You would make millions, Monkey Brew sold world wide. I think you are trying to take over. Keeping my eye on that Monkey. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Kurt
Well what can i say, i did change the oil on a friday and got lucky.... Ehh!?! :rofl2: Oil wise that is....
Don't know how this happend but the 2nd gear is much better then before. Magic oil perhaps? As you say with the early issues, i did expect them, but they nevere came. Still haven't experienced them yet. Will be takibg the old girl for a spinn to night into the kookaloo zone to check again...
Anyway, i will not complain, since this might help me keeping the cost down for the rebuild next week.
Kurt, you never know what to expect from a red power ranger with a monkey wrench... :good:
Cheers
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on April 27, 2013, 10:40:21 AM
Maybe time to start making Monkey Light Brew? Maybe you can develop a zero calorie brew. You would make millions, Monkey Brew sold world wide. I think you are trying to take over. Keeping my eye on that Monkey. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Kurt
I will be bringing a sample of my German wheat beer to the WCR, not sure if its light, 4% alcohol by weight, but very tasty... Can't bring too much as I am riding up.
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 27, 2013, 10:58:13 AM
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on April 27, 2013, 10:40:21 AM
Maybe time to start making Monkey Light Brew? Maybe you can develop a zero calorie brew. You would make millions, Monkey Brew sold world wide. I think you are trying to take over. Keeping my eye on that Monkey. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Kurt
I will be bringing a sample of my German wheat beer to the WCR, not sure if its light, 4% alcohol by weight, but very tasty... Can't bring too much as I am riding up.
I was hoping you would bring some. Looking forward to the rally. Hope Randy can make it even if he can't ride, maybe he can just chill for awhile. Drink some of that Monkey Brew that will fix him up, good as new. :drinks: :lol:
Kurt
I wonder whether it was the second gear issue at all? Perhaps it's the some-times confused, chain and sprocket issue?
Just a thought.
Dan
Quote from: Dan Filetti on April 27, 2013, 12:59:01 PM
I wonder whether it was the second gear issue at all? Perhaps it's the some-times confused, chain and sprocket issue?
Just a thought.
Dan
Well just got back from a late drive. And i can indeed confirm that the 2nd gear issue is there. But only when i suddely open the throttle wide open. When i ease the throttle and let the bike work it goes fine.
When i push it not so much.
CHeers
Ken
Will be replacing my fork oil soon, and have a question regarding mesurement of oil level.
If I understand the Haynes manual, I shoild meadure 169mm form top of fork and down to top oil level?
Cheers
Ken
Yes, according to Haynes that's correct.
However, I've found my forks work better with the oil level set to 130-140mm. This is with the fork fully compressed and the springs OUT.
Arnie
Quote from: keand3 on May 05, 2013, 01:34:38 AM
Will be replacing my fork oil soon, and have a question regarding mesurement of oil level.
If I understand the Haynes manual, I shoild meadure 169mm form top of fork and down to top oil level?
Cheers
Ken
Thanks Arnie.
Tried to get a hold of a 27mm hex key today, but it seems like this is an size non of the common tool dealers her carry.
Had to order through eBay.
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on May 06, 2013, 06:52:55 AM
Thanks Arnie.
Tried to get a hold of a 27mm hex key today, but it seems like this is an size non of the common tool dealers her carry.
Had to order through eBay.
Cheers
Ken
You could get the tool that FJMonkey makes for that.
Or just use a BFH and hammer a 5/8" socket over the threads of an 18mm bolt.
Quote from: not a lib on May 06, 2013, 11:26:09 AM
You could get the tool that FJMonkey makes for that.
Or just use a BFH and hammer a 5/8" socket over the threads of an 18mm bolt.
Thanks for the tip. I might try it out, thanks.
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on May 06, 2013, 12:05:15 PM
Or just use a BFH and hammer a 5/8" socket over the threads of an 18mm bolt.
Thanks for the tip. I might try it out, thanks.
Cheers
Ken
[/quote]
That one has been around for a long time... I think maybe David R came up with it.
The rear axle nut is also 27mm, IIRC. Some guys have used it.
27mm hex is close enough to 1 1/8" to use that size allen (hex) key.
OR
The nut for a 3/4" bolt is 1 1/8" and will also work.
However, these SAE sizes may not be readily available in Norway.
Arnie
Got my 27mm hex key in today, so the forkoil will be change sometime later today :good2:
Okey, I need some help to understand something.
I am currently looking at replacing my clutch master with a new one.
Been looking at several different ones, but the piston size has made me confused again.
I was under the impression that the bigger the bore or piston size, more power or pressure it will give.
Earlier today i did read on a description on a brembo clutch m/c with adjustable pressure, 16 to 18 or something. .
The description stated that setting the pressure to 16 you would gain more power, 18 is prompter but less power. ? Can someone with more technical experience please tell me the difference? I tought the higher the size the bigger the pressure or power is deliverd.
My current M/c has to be pullef all the way in to the handlebar to deliver any pressure to engage the clutch. What i want from the new m/c is minimum leaver movement to engage the clutch. I dont want to be pulling it all the way in everytime.
Cheers
Ken
Keep it simple to remember:
Smaller m/c piston = easier pull but a longer stroke needed to get the work done.
Larger m/c piston = harder pull but a shorter stroke to get the work done.
Fork question.
Did change the fork fuel today and stuble uppon a problem when reassbling it.
I followed the heynes manuall and compressed the fork, messured it, pumped it a couple of times to get rid of air, remassured it and top it of eith oil. When putting back the spring and the rod and top cap i was not able to compress it to screw the topcap back on.
I do figure out the rod had to be alligned correctly, which i think it eas. (No spring eas visible)
What am i doing wrong? I did put a lot of strengt into it..
Cheers
Disregard the last post, i figured it out :-)
Anyone know what the torque spec for the a 89 forkcap?
Cheers
Quote from: keand3 on May 19, 2013, 06:51:35 AM
Disregard the last post, i figured it out :-)
Anyone know what the torque spec for the a 89 forkcap?
Cheers
Good n tight
Quote from: keand3 on May 19, 2013, 06:51:35 AM
Disregard the last post, i figured it out :-)
Anyone know what the torque spec for the a 89 forkcap?
Cheers
Bolt cap Assembly 17 ft lbs / 23 Nm
George
Thanks George :good2:
I always like to torque bolts and nuts down to their correct torque setting. When i got the tools for it i might as well do it properly.
I can however inform you that change of fork oil was badly needed. I have never seen oil this black or this thick before!! And the amount of oil that came out suggest that the forks had waaaay to little oil in them. No wonder they did perform as they did.
Arnie i followed your addvice and sat the level to 140mm. Will test drive tomorrow and see how it feels and handles. Until my funds may acquire the fork valve and new springs, this will suffice for now.
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on May 19, 2013, 12:27:26 PM
Thanks George :good2:
I always like to torque bolts and nuts down to their correct torque setting. When i got the tools for it i might as well do it properly.
I can however inform you that change of fork oil was badly needed. I have never seen oil this black or this thick before!! And the amount of oil that came out suggest that the forks had waaaay to little oil in them. No wonder they did perform as they did.
Arnie i followed your addvice and sat the level to 140mm. Will test drive tomorrow and see how it feels and handles. Until my funds may acquire the fork valve and new springs, this will suffice for now.
Cheers
Ken
With air cooled aluminum cased engines I think the TQ's are important to adhere to. Parts are easy damaged and expensive. :good2:. I am running the stock forks at present and change the oil in them every spring.
George :bye: