I have a four day weekend coming up, going to hit the blue ridge parkway, this route here:...nm, wont let me post google map frame thingy, oh well
and this is how she sits now
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8461/8052063078_dc54017e80_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8052063078/)
DSC00238 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8052063078/#) by goetzjordan (http://www.flickr.com/people/87853494@N07/), on Flickr
the good: kookaloo, actually decent bridgestones, K&n pods (gonnahave to check the plugs and jets), and more kookaloo. chain and rear sprockes seem pretty fresh.
the bad: left fork dust cover is sopping wet w/ fork oil and i think the only reason the right one is dry is cause it already leaked out a long time ago. speedo cable snapped at the snail, odo stopped at 22k, the po had no comment. speedo needle assy. is laying in the bottom of gauge cluster housing, rear shock feels pretty dead. front brakes are MUSH. rear brake is TWITCHY. pod filters look pretty gunked up. tranny makes ominous clunking noises( in first & 2nd) but shifts smooth/ pipes are RUSTY. choke cable looks like the one that came with the bike, completely fubar'd.
i love this bike.
doing the f4i shock swap and fork seals as soon as they get in, do i need a fork seal driver? scotchbrite and grill paint for the pipes i guess. Im poor and already spent my last discretionary dime on a choke cable.
Quote from: Goetz on October 03, 2012, 08:35:34 PM
i love this bike.
doing the f4i shock swap and fork seals as soon as they get in, do i need a fork seal driver?
Yes, but you can make one. This related write up should help answer your question. Go to the bottom of the thread and open the attachement.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1911.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1911.0)
Don't go crazy trying to fix it all in one shot.
It looks like you have a great starting point.
Just keep at it and before you know it, you'll have it in top shape.
You need to balance the fun of riding it with the fun of fixing what needs fixed, and modify what will give you what you're looking for.
I'm happy for you, because I remember what it felt like right after buying my FJ...feels pretty good, don't it?
Cheers,
Leon
+1 on the slow fixing, been working on and riding my effie for nearly 8 years, just keep finding other things to mod :good2:
yeah, i have some long term ideas for doing a carbon fiber overlay on all the plastics, but thats... long long term. I kinda go nuts at first, and i have to say, this is a sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet ride, even if it is slammed at the moment. Heh, best 800 i ever spent.
The front brake caliper seals probably got contaminated with leaking fork oil. I had that happen with the '93 I bought. First thing I had to do was rebuild the calipers.
DavidR.
yeah, the rotors were covered in a mixture of fork oil and brake dust, i imagine the pads are saturated, with oil :dash2: Im a little intimidated by the prospect of taking the front end totally apart, i've done a rear shock swap on an sv650n before, that was a breeze. but getting that needle back in the speedometer? bah. Has anyone had the gauge cluster apart here?
Most of us have probably had the gauges apart, if i remember correctly its a squeeze getting the gauge cluster out on 1100s ,, but pretty easy to work on once out just dont do the 4 cover screws on the gauge screen to tight, or things make unhappy noises :scratch_one-s_head:
Right on, thanks. I guess all i can do now is ride it till the parts get here
:dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2:
went to bleed the brakes today, noticed brake fluid weeping from sight glass, BRUSHED it with my finger, and a chunk of plastic came out of it, followed by more brake fluid.
now my bike has a flipping moped master cylinder, which, after bleeding the brake lines, works WAAAAAY better than the stock one, will post pics later, im done. :dash2:
Better to find that in the garage than at 70mph noticing your lap is wet and your stopping is notsogood...
Ick, nonetheless, though. :empathy2:
common problem ? with standard masters, when I bought my 84 po had plugged up the site glass holes with metal mend or something, as the sight glasses had both fallen apart, , first upgrade was master cylinders for some reason :scratch_one-s_head:
so there is a company that sells sight glass kits :http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCkQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fnewrivercyclesalvage.com%2Fsight-glass.html&ei=iYtuUPOHOorQ9ATtq4D4CQ&usg=AFQjCNGH5avXfmLFXn2ewLevJJ7I997hBQ (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCkQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fnewrivercyclesalvage.com%2Fsight-glass.html&ei=iYtuUPOHOorQ9ATtq4D4CQ&usg=AFQjCNGH5avXfmLFXn2ewLevJJ7I997hBQ)
but a dime fits in the hole pretty well and jb weld is cheap.... i know, i know, but my inner redneck is howling with delight at the prospect of putting Jb on the bike... :yahoo:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8458/8055986280_f8d131318c_s.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8055986280/)
DSC00249 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8055986280/#) by goetzjordan (http://www.flickr.com/people/87853494@N07/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8457/8055982291_316fec9197_s.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8055982291/)
DSC00248 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8055982291/#) by goetzjordan (http://www.flickr.com/people/87853494@N07/), on Flickr
well, i now have a moped master cylinder. it works, for now. Ordered a kit from new river cycle salvage, to replace the sight "glass" with real glass, will post updates if it works. :mad:
had my first k&n pod cleaning experience. also, took the fairing off to find that 1) speedometer is totally hosed and 2) the light adjuster knob was hanging loose. also both air scoop things were missing mounting bolts (1 each) and the screws that held them to the air ducts that flow air to the head (ONE screw apiece) I think i have found the source of my low speed noise gremlins (I hope).
I just hope the engine is in better shape than the fairings and gauges. Anyone have a spare speedometer?
btw, dont try to paint stuff outside. I just gave up after having a bunch of dust and stuff get onto the air scoops AGAIN. the black is gonna look sweet tho. Any rattle can gurus out there?
Preparation is the key.
Thick, glugged on paint looks shit.
Take your time.
Put the rattle cans in a bucket of hot water for five minutes just before using.
Lots of really light coats are the only way to go.
Let the thin coats dry to a hard finish before sanding, 24 hours is best.
Sand between the coats.
Take your time.
Go to a big box store and get a big box, something that a washing machine , fridge etc came in.
Use that as your spray booth.
Take your time.
tym, klavdy, that is exactly the kind of advice i needed :good2:
btw, should i take the scoops off AFTER i remove the fairing??? they were a pain to put back on, with the fairing on the bike. wait.... i should RTFM eh...
Quote from: Goetz on October 05, 2012, 02:37:47 AM
so there is a company that sells sight glass kits :http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCkQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fnewrivercyclesalvage.com%2Fsight-glass.html&ei=iYtuUPOHOorQ9ATtq4D4CQ&usg=AFQjCNGH5avXfmLFXn2ewLevJJ7I997hBQ (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCkQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fnewrivercyclesalvage.com%2Fsight-glass.html&ei=iYtuUPOHOorQ9ATtq4D4CQ&usg=AFQjCNGH5avXfmLFXn2ewLevJJ7I997hBQ)
but a dime fits in the hole pretty well and jb weld is cheap.... i know, i know, but my inner redneck is howling with delight at the prospect of putting Jb on the bike... :yahoo:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8458/8055986280_f8d131318c_s.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8055986280/)
DSC00249 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8055986280/#) by goetzjordan (http://www.flickr.com/people/87853494@N07/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8457/8055982291_316fec9197_s.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8055982291/)
DSC00248 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8055982291/#) by goetzjordan (http://www.flickr.com/people/87853494@N07/), on Flickr
An observation from the 2 photos. Is that the master cylinder that came with the bike?
You mentioned that you ordered a new sight glass. I am assuming you ordered one for a 84/85 FJ1100. The master cylinder that is in the photos is not a stock FJ master cylinder. I appologize if my assumption is wrong.
Fred
No, that one came off of a moped, make unknown. Stops the bike just fine, but no brake light or mirror hook ups on it.
:blush:Yamaha FJ1100,1200 84-93 Clymer Service Manual ENG (http://www.scribd.com/doc/27610778/Yamaha-FJ1100-1200-84-93-Clymer-Service-Manual-ENG#)
i see, my air scoops were not held on by the oem push lock pins, but by two different sizes of bolt. made it tricky and explains some of the cracks. i may just drill access holes later....
This is a mod upgrade that a lot of riders on this forum have switched to.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-FZ1-Front-Brake-Perch-Lever-Master-Cylinder-OEM-Yamaha-FZ-1-FZS1000-FZS-1000-/120940065681?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2896f391&vxp=mtr#ht_271wt_934 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-FZ1-Front-Brake-Perch-Lever-Master-Cylinder-OEM-Yamaha-FZ-1-FZS1000-FZS-1000-/120940065681?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2896f391&vxp=mtr#ht_271wt_934)
And if the clutch master is having the same issues.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/07-2007-YAMAHA-FJR1300-FJR-1300-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-/120978612559?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2ae3214f&vxp=mtr#ht_1957wt_1172 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/07-2007-YAMAHA-FJR1300-FJR-1300-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-/120978612559?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2ae3214f&vxp=mtr#ht_1957wt_1172)
Fred
thats probably what i'll go with ifthesight glass replacement doesnt work. Thanks!
so, another quick question. im running 4.5krpms in 5th gear @ 75 mph. does that sound right? and this thing will flat out GO. Cleaned the pods and it feels like the acceleration is a little better in the higher gears.
Quote from: Goetz on October 06, 2012, 05:54:58 PM
so, another quick question. im running 4.5krpms in 5th gear @ 75 mph. does that sound right? and this thing will flat out GO. Cleaned the pods and it feels like the acceleration is a little better in the higher gears.
Ya, sounds about right to me!
Thanks, she certainly doesnt seem underpowered. Lots of low speed, low gear clunk tho.
Spin on oil filter adapter from RPM just came in the mail! Thanks, Randy! Clear instructions and documentation, 5 stars! :good2:
Has anyone here used evap-o-rust on exhaust headers before, mine are quite crunchy. im thinking de rust, sand, and grill paint.
wish aus post delivered here on weekends :good2:
Bearings for the f4i swap just came in, clutch lever came in, fork seals on the way, parkway trip on friday. Gonna need to skip the gym this week. :i_am_so_happy:
hi mate, what bearings did you get for the f4i,, I'm changing the top bushing out for the 3 bearings as used by another member , interested to see if it makes any difference
eeeeh, i got two for the bottom and pressed the stock one into the top, that way i diddnt need a spacer. I used...HK1812 Needle Bearing 18x24x12 TLA1812Z Needle Bearings $4.95
Sold by : VXB Bearings
they slid right in to the bottom mount and i used the f4i seals, which, fit pretty well. Its a bit too high now, how do I lower it, crank the bottom doohicky to the left or right?
Fork seals done, 20 wt fork oil, and this thing has a front end again! Brake pads thoroughly cleaned. now it stops. spin on filter adapter installed, why the hell does the oil drain so slow. Is there another drain bolt that im missing? btw, the old fork oil looked like used engine oil and smelled like fish. :bad: Usb power cable routed and tied off, No w all i need is a long weekend :yahoo: :yahoo:
Parkway here i come!
Kokaloo
list of mods/maint so far, 8 days owning the bike
spin on filter adapter
fork seals, 20wt oil
F4I rear shock
usb power for the stuff that needs it
oil change
choke cable replaced
hope i put everything back together right, BRP on friday. Deals Gap on monday, its a good weekend. :yahoo:
did you take out the drain plug under the engine at the front, hex head, buy has a Phillips head screw in the center , thats the magnet ,, or you can remove the left side lower oil cooler line
Quote from: Goetz on October 10, 2012, 10:25:12 PM
why the hell does the oil drain so slow.
Are you draining the oil from a hot engine? If the oil is not at running temperature it will be slow and a lot will stay in there. Also, if the motors just been run and is hot all the crud is suspended in the oil.'
Noel
In a similar vein,,,
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m149/carn955/jeep.jpg)
Quote from: Klavdy on October 11, 2012, 02:27:46 AM
In a similar vein,,,
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m149/carn955/jeep.jpg)
Klavdy,
That's hilarious! That being said, it struck me funny that an anagram for "wgirvine", the author of that response is "we virgin". Just sayin' I don't think he gets laid too often. Oh, gotta go - my wife is telling me I need to get the cookies out of the oven...
Zwartie
I've got to meet you Ben.......God you are funny.....and clever......and you ride a FJ.... :drinks:
The front half of the fender came off! Crap. There arent any on ebay, but there is a rear half. Can i just flip that around?
Quote from: Goetz on October 13, 2012, 09:40:09 AM
The front half of the fender came off! Crap. There arent any on ebay, but there is a rear half. Can i just flip that around?
No.
You can order new ones from RPM.
Leon
That was great. Im looking for a woman who will help in the garage
Couldnt find a fender on rpm website, you have a link?
Re the oil thing, i have the kerker 4 1 2 so i have to drop the exhaust to get to that plug.
I used the allen head drain plug on the right side. Tok forever, next time i will drop the exhaust or use the left side oil cooler fitting. Yes, the engine was hot, i ran it around for 20 minutes, With some seafoam in the crankcase.
Quote from: Goetz on October 13, 2012, 12:43:04 PM
Couldnt find a fender on rpm website, you have a link?
Re the oil thing, i have the kerker 4 1 2 so i have to drop the exhaust to get to that plug.
I used the allen head drain plug on the right side. Tok forever, next time i will drop the exhaust or use the left side oil cooler fitting. Yes, the engine was hot, i ran it around for 20 minutes, With some seafoam in the crankcase.
I just got fenders in last week and have not gotten them posted up yet. I will be doing that this weekend.
You have to drain the sump using the drain plug in the bottom of the pan or the left oil cooler outlet fitting at the pan. Since you have a header covering the plug, the oil line needs to be removed or the header has to come off.
If you removed an allen cap then you only drain that specific oil galley and not the sump.
Randy - RPM
Thanks :good: The spin on filter adapter is great, btw.
Quote from: Goetz on October 13, 2012, 01:29:48 PM
Thanks :good: The spin on filter adapter is great, btw.
Thank you and glad you like it, it makes the oil filter changing portion much easier, now you just have to get the header issue resolved so you can drain the sump easily...
Randy - RPM
Just going to have to drop it, the collector sits directly below the drain plug, no room for a wrench. That will have to wait till next week.
Exhaust dropped, sanded, and painted.
On way home from work and chain completely ate front sprocket, look
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8053/8095637256_a9c675a329_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8095637256/)
20121016_205219 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87853494@N07/8095637256/#) by goetzjordan (http://www.flickr.com/people/87853494@N07/), on Flickr
Ordered new chain, 18t front and 42 rear. Chain was way stiff, probably all the metal shavings.... po.. :diablo: Rear was pretty gnarly too
Damn!!! I have only seen AL sprockets disolve like that, and only on the rear... Lube the new chain dude....
The amazing thing is that i just got back from 600 miles of mountain roads. Glad it chose today to die... i was able to drive it home from work, barely. Meh, i can focus on some cosmetic issues while i wait for the parts to come in. Yeah, it had made in usa stamped on it, so not oem i guess.