My left blinkers stopped working so I spent some time today troubleshooting.I checked and cleaned my way back to the relay.I am confident it's the relay.At $95 I am hoping there might be an alternative.It's a '86 non-cal model.
Thanks,Glenn
You could probably use any car, but if it's the same relay i think it is does it have 9 connectors on it and it is placed on left side in the fairing?
If so it operates the engine starter circuit and has something that counts down to cut the blinker of and blinker relay.
If your handy there should not be so hard to rewire to a car relay, the downside is that the "autocutoff" for the blinker is gone.
On newer fj1200 there 2 separate relays and no "autocutoff".
And there's always Ebay.
The automotive ones work great as for which connectors do what, a 5 minute search wil explain things. You can get em at any auto parts store and they're like under $3. They also only work with incandescent (stock fj signal bulbs) and not LED. this is because these and most auto relays expect and require 12v to operate. Led's are way less than 12 v.
Quote from: Ratchet_72 on September 06, 2009, 03:15:14 PM
The automotive ones work great as for which connectors do what, a 5 minute search wil explain things. You can get em at any auto parts store and they're like under $3. They also only work with incandescent (stock fj signal bulbs) and not LED. this is because these and most auto relays expect and require 12v to operate. Led's are way less than 12 v.
I thought that relays would not care about the lower wattage of an LED (assuming the LED is 12VDC). My experience with relays (designing and building Electro-hydraulic wheelchair lifts) is minimal but my understanding is that the relay is simply a coil that when energized, changes the state of contact. The normally open side closes and the normally closed side opens (depending on the relay). A 12VDC relay needs 12VDC to power the coil and actuate the switch and make contact. The contact will take as little power to as as much as it rated for. Draw too much power and the contacts fry. The contact in the relay opens and closes regardless if the contacts have power running through them. You can test this by only connecting the coil side of the relay and it will (click) as it changes states. Maybe there are more specialized relays used in automotive for turn signals and such. I am always willing learn something new. That is my 2 pesos. :shok:
Does it matter to the LEDs if I'm using dino vs. synth oil? Can I use LEDs without having to change to synth oil? If so, what viscosity works best with LEDs? :crazy:
Quote from: Ratchet_72 on September 06, 2009, 03:15:14 PM
You can get em at any auto parts store and they're like under $3. They also only work with incandescent (stock fj signal bulbs) and not LED. this is because these and most auto relays expect and require 12v to operate. Led's are way less than 12 v.
FYI: you can inexpensively also purchase turn-signal relays for use on semi-trucks that don't have the 12v minimum (or any max) required to work - these work great with LEDs. This is because semi-trucks have multiple lights all over the trailer. The "fast flash" feature on auto relays was designed as a safety feature to let you know that a bulb is out. The semi relay's don't have this "feature" - so they flash normally ALL the time.
There is also this one:
http://www.bikeeffects.com/proddetail.asp?prod=6104%2D00%2DCON (http://www.bikeeffects.com/proddetail.asp?prod=6104%2D00%2DCON)
Thanks guys. Since I posted I have found some info on converting to an automotive type flasher unit.I am use to "manually" canceling my blinkers,so I may just go that route.I've been keeping my eyes open for a used one in the mean time.
If the flasher is working at all it's Ok That leaves you with the switch or one of the under dash conectors. My guess is the handle bar switch. some crud on a contact.
I took a few minutes to look at it today.The left side works fine.I do see a slight pulse in the right front blinker when the left is operating.I plugged the right rear into the left circuit and it works fine.I didn't have time to swap the fronts to see if it works.
I did get pissed off enough about my intermittent drivability issue to pull the carb rack completely apart.I found two pieces of orange high temp silicone in the feedline to the carbs.They were at the "t's" before the bowls.They were oddly shaped and too big to get passed the "t".I put a large inline filter in it shortly after I got the bike so they have been there since I've had the bike.