Hi,
I seem to have a problem with my fuel gauge. When I fill it, it shows as full which is great. It seems to go down quite quickly. I mean to say that after about 200km (120miles) it is down to empty and my low fuel light comes on not long after that. I open my tank and there seems to be a good amount of fuel left but when I tried to continue once when this happened the motor was giving out and I had to switch to the reserve. It then ran fine. I didn't want to take the chance on running it too long on reserve so I filled it up again. Can anyone tell me what might possibly be the problem.
Thanks,
Mark
Quote from: chocker on June 22, 2012, 06:04:54 PM
Hi,
I seem to have a problem with my fuel gauge. When I fill it, it shows as full which is great. It seems to go down quite quickly. I mean to say that after about 200km (120miles) it is down to empty and my low fuel light comes on not long after that. I open my tank and there seems to be a good amount of fuel left but when I tried to continue once when this happened the motor was giving out and I had to switch to the reserve. It then ran fine. I didn't want to take the chance on running it too long on reserve so I filled it up again. Can anyone tell me what might possibly be the problem.
Thanks,
Mark
That's an old warranty issue. Take it back to the dealer and they will fix it.. :bomb:.
How much does it take to fill?
I guess it takes between 12 - 15 litres when I fill up. The fuel capacity is 24 litres. I just don't understand it. Was there a warranty issue with this at some point?
Mark
Quote from: chocker on June 23, 2012, 07:54:54 PM
I guess it takes between 12 - 15 litres when I fill up. The fuel capacity is 24 litres. I just don't understand it. Was there a warranty issue with this at some point?
Mark
I am just stirring the pot, your problem is new to me. I wonder if something got bent inside the tank and is sending the wrong information. If there is a float involved it could be compromised and not floating very well, hence giving signals of lower fuel levels. Even a bad float can be pushed up when the system is full. But when the level drops it will quickly indicate much lower levels. I have a spare 86/87 tank that is empty, maybe I will get a light and inspection mirror to see how the sender works in the tank. I could borrow the inspection camera from work, it has 40 inches of flexible extension with a lens and light at the end....
I guess it's not so easy to see the float and if it is the problem is it hard to replace or actually be able to repair it.
Mark
Mark is right. The float may be the issue. Take the float out and see if has any fluid in it. Put the float in a bowl of water and see If any air bubbles escape the float. Leave the float underwater overnight.
If all is well...
You may just need to adjust the float rod.
Fill your tank with 12 liters and adjust the rod so that your gauge reads 1/2 full.
It may take several tries to get the rod bent where it needs to be...
Don't bother adjusting the rod if your float is not 100 percent. HTH. Pat
I just filled my tank so I will wait until it is showing empty then drain and refill to half (approximately 12 litres). Is it easy to adjust the float without removing the tank.
Mark
No, it is not easy to access the float thru the filler hole. All the FJ tanks I've seen have a sleeve at the filler cap which prevents access to the float from the top.
I had to remove the tank, drain it, flip it over, peel back the heat shielding, remove the float assembly and bend the rod. Reassemble in reverse order and refill the tank.
My first try I bent the float rod the wrong way.....made it worse...visualize and remember the orientation of the float as it sits within the tank, a key point.
It took me two more tries to get the float just right. Remember to check the float-fuel gauge reading with the tank on the rubbers and the bike on the ground, not on the center stand.
Yea, it was a hassle... I don't want to do it again.
I was looking at the fuel sender unit in the tank with a flashlight and the float seems to be at the right level where the gas is but it is showing about 1/8 full when it is much more than that. I can do about 140 kms for half a tank then the other half goes down in about 60 kms approximately. I think it might not be a bend in the sending unit but the unit itself is defective. I cleaned the connections for the unit and used dielectric grease. How would I go about testing the unit.
Mark
Quote from: chocker on June 27, 2012, 07:20:34 PM
I was looking at the fuel sender unit in the tank with a flashlight and the float seems to be at the right level where the gas is but it is showing about 1/8 full when it is much more than that. I can do about 140 kms for half a tank then the other half goes down in about 60 kms approximately. I think it might not be a bend in the sending unit but the unit itself is defective. I cleaned the connections for the unit and used dielectric grease. How would I go about testing the unit.
Mark
Mark, that more or less makes sense. The top half of the tank does not have the "backbone" hump. So you would expect to get more out of the top half.
I would think however, that your FJ is using more fuel than it should if you are only getting 200Kms to a tank full.
I can regularly achieve 300Kms around town and 350Kms on a trip.
Harvy
Quote from: chocker on June 27, 2012, 07:20:34 PM
I was looking at the fuel sender unit in the tank with a flashlight and the float seems to be at the right level where the gas is but it is showing about 1/8 full when it is much more than that. I can do about 140 kms for half a tank then the other half goes down in about 60 kms approximately. I think it might not be a bend in the sending unit but the unit itself is defective. I cleaned the connections for the unit and used dielectric grease. How would I go about testing the unit.
Mark
The sender is a variable resistor, you'd need an ohmmeter and need to be able to swing the float thru it's full range of travel.... You be looking for any sort of large non-linearity. If it was open, you'd see either a "FULL" or "EMPTY" indication on the gauge itself, no matter how much fuel was in there ( probably "E", but I'm not sure).
What I think* happened to my bike causing my gas gauge to become inaccurate, was when I raised my back suspension.
I noticed that the float is positioned towards that back area of my tank.
With the rear raised, the fuel level within the tank is now lower at the back of the tank... and higher at the front.
That's why my gas gauge read lower than the actual amount left in the tank.
Filling my tank 1/2 full, and bending the float rod to get that 1/2 tank reading, solved the problem.
*Just a theory
I have an ohmmeter which is in my vole meter but where exactly do I connect it. Do I just disconnect the line running from the sending unit and attact it there. Would you happen to have a picture.
Thanks,
Mark
I read somewhere that res will be needed at approx 5 litres left in tank...I've had bone dry empty on gauge,and no light or res and put 21-22 ltrs in it to fill.Is there a fuse or something that i may have blown,and that is why fuel light and res has not been used yet since i owned bike?
The float drives the gauge reading. It's just not calibrated very well. I believe the float signal also provides the input to the reserve "logic" that cuts the fuel pump (or something) to simulate running out of gas so you will switch to reserve and start looking to fill up.
The fuel light is a separate circuit. You probably have to run the fuel level farther down to activate the fuel light circuit. I know my gauge sits on empty for quite a while before the light starts to glow.
DavidR.
I understand what you're saying but it seems that my fuel gauge as at empty at about 200 kms. This seems pretty low as an average. At that point the low fuel light goes on a little after that. The last time it happened to me was in traffic on a hot day and the bike was giving out then died. I had to switch to reserve and continue.
Mark
Quote from: chocker on July 03, 2012, 09:01:10 PM
I understand what you're saying but it seems that my fuel gauge as at empty at about 200 kms. This seems pretty low as an average. At that point the low fuel light goes on a little after that. The last time it happened to me was in traffic on a hot day and the bike was giving out then died. I had to switch to reserve and continue.
Mark
Fuel gauges on cars and bikes have been inconsistent and unreliable forever, mine for example gives me 200 on the top half and 100 on the bottom. I like everything on my vehicles to work but I'm not too fussed about fuel gauge accuracy. If you've nothing better to do or you're a stickler for detail by all means fix it but I find the trip odometer the most reliable or if I'm feeling flash I use the fuel gauge on the GPS with programmable fuel warning.
Reserve switches are a hangover from the days of no fuel gauge, cars don't have them. I don't use mine. I, like many others here no doubt, have been caught out over the years reaching for the reserve when it splutters only to find I forgot to switch it back to the main when I last filled up. At that point you re-plan your trip to include a stop anywhere in the next few hundred yards.
I hear what you're saying but that is not the only point as I have said earlier in this post. I am only getting about 200kms per tank of gas. I should be getting at least 300 to 350 kms on the same tank. I am not that much of a stickler but I do like it when I don't have to fill up my tank 1/3 more often than I should. It gets to be a little annoying.
Mark
Quote from: chocker on July 04, 2012, 05:54:28 AM
I hear what you're saying but that is not the only point as I have said earlier in this post. I am only getting about 200kms per tank of gas. I should be getting at least 300 to 350 kms on the same tank. I am not that much of a stickler but I do like it when I don't have to fill up my tank 1/3 more often than I should. It gets to be a little annoying.
Mark
Sorry, I should read more carefully.
Noel
Would anyone know what the resistance should be from empty to full for the sending unit. I would like to verify if the unit itself is faulty.
Mark
Quote from: chocker on July 04, 2012, 05:54:28 AM
I hear what you're saying but that is not the only point as I have said earlier in this post. I am only getting about 200kms per tank of gas. I should be getting at least 300 to 350 kms on the same tank.
Mark
I've been reading and I guess I'm a litttle lost at what you're trying to accomplish.
If you're griping about only getting 200 km per tank, then you've got a CARB problem and the fuel gauge has nothing to do with it.
DavidR.
fuel gauge, isnt that the funny little thing in the top right corner of the dash that cant make its mind up :biggrin:, rather rely on the trip meter,seeing as i have no reserve (popcorn)
In response to DavidR's comment, would the carbs take more than 1/3 more fuel than normal? I ask this because I undertsand that if there is a carb problem you would end up getting lower mileage per tank but this low seems to be a little extreme to me. I read that most people are getting between 300 - 350 kms per tank and I am only getting about 200kms. As I have said previously when my tank is on empty there still is a good amount of fuel left and then my low fuel light goes off. Then again it could be a combination of carb issues and the fuel sending unit. It seems to run normally with no issues and it has good throttle response.
Thanks,
Mark
check your spark plugs , if its the carbs your plugs should not be grey/tan
Quote from: chocker on July 05, 2012, 06:49:38 AM
In response to DavidR's comment, would the carbs take more than 1/3 more fuel than normal? I ask this because I undertsand that if there is a carb problem you would end up getting lower mileage per tank but this low seems to be a little extreme to me. I read that most people are getting between 300 - 350 kms per tank and I am only getting about 200kms. As I have said previously when my tank is on empty there still is a good amount of fuel left and then my low fuel light goes off. Then again it could be a combination of carb issues and the fuel sending unit. It seems to run normally with no issues and it has good throttle response.
If the bike is using tons of fuel, then the devices that meter fuel would very probably be on the suspect list, y`think?
Nah, it's probably the wrong oil. Or tires. :dash1: :dash1:
Mark,
Its hard to tell from your post if you're actually using all the fuel in your tank.
How many litres does it take when you fill-up?
My typical odometer readings vs fuel gauge readings are:
~150kms = 1/2 tank indicated on the gauge
~250kms = Empty indicated on the gauge - shortly after FUEL light is on intermittently
~300kms = Below Empty on the gauge and the FUEL light comes on solid
~325kms = Bike coughs and I need to switch Reserve on
~350kms = I get nervous about running dry and fill up :-)
I did get to 400kms once, but the tank was completely dry and I ended up pushing.
(I put 21.5L into my 21L tank on my '91 FJ1200 )
Your milage and gauge readings may be different. What the gauge indicates has NO bearing on how much fuel your engine is using. That is determined by carb settings, gearing, wear on the engine, tire inflation, avg speed, and your riding habits.
Arnie
Quote from: chocker on July 05, 2012, 06:49:38 AM
In response to DavidR's comment, would the carbs take more than 1/3 more fuel than normal? I ask this because I undertsand that if there is a carb problem you would end up getting lower mileage per tank but this low seems to be a little extreme to me. I read that most people are getting between 300 - 350 kms per tank and I am only getting about 200kms. As I have said previously when my tank is on empty there still is a good amount of fuel left and then my low fuel light goes off. Then again it could be a combination of carb issues and the fuel sending unit. It seems to run normally with no issues and it has good throttle response.
Thanks,
Mark
When the fuel gauge is at empty I go fill up. I have to fill approximately 12 - 14 litres to fill it up maybe slightly more if I really fit it to the top. I will check the exact volume next time it goes on empty but that's about right.
Mark
I think looking at these post the fuel gauges seem to be as individual as the bikes and owners themselves.. :good2:
I'm similiar to Arnie
~100km - needle hasn't moved off full
~200km 1/2 tank
~250km needle says empty, intermittant fuel light
At this point I usually drop my nuts and fill up usually 17 litres of 91 octane
I asked the "how far on a tank?" question a while back and a few guys chimed in, here's the post with info if your interested..
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1634.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1634.0)
Happy riding
James
Mark,
Our bikes are getting very similar fuel economy results. I average 17km/L. Using your figures, 12*17= 204kms and 14*17= 238kms. The difference is that I normally fillup with 17-19L. I don't think there is anything majorly wrong with your bike or carb settings.
As discussed, the fuel gauge just isn't that well calibrated.
Arnie
Quote from: chocker on July 05, 2012, 10:33:22 AM
When the fuel gauge is at empty I go fill up. I have to fill approximately 12 - 14 litres to fill it up maybe slightly more if I really fit it to the top. I will check the exact volume next time it goes on empty but that's about right.
Mark
I undertsand what your saying but when I am at about 200 km the fuel gauge is showing at empty and the low fuel light comes on. I then tried to ride it a little longer without going to reserve and it started to sputter. I then switched it to reserve and it continued. I didn't want to take a chance so I filled it up. Therefore I am only getting about 200 km or so one a tank of fuel.
Mark
Hi Chocker.
Here are some pictures of a fuel sender from an 86 fj1200 showing the sender in a "close" approximation of where it sits inside the tank.I don't know if this sender unit has been "adjusted".Its out of a spare tank I got for the cap.The top of the green tape line shows a "close" approximation to the bottom of the tank.Assuming that there is no serious malfunction of your sender unit you should be able to lower the float level by gently bending the lower stopper for the float arm outwards, and the low level sensor (small metal can with the yellow wire in the top) down by gently bending the arm that holds it.
Float level at empty....
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/medium_1645_06_07_12_5_55_53_0.jpeg)
Float level at full....
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/medium_1645_06_07_12_5_56_02_2.jpeg)
a bit closer...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/medium_1645_06_07_12_5_55_57_1.jpeg)
You might try holding the sender up next to the tank while adjusting the levels.Having the sender out will allow you to check the resistance through the whole travel of the the float arm.Also plugging the sender back in while its out of the tank will allow you to see the relation of the float level to the fuel gauge so you can adjust appropriately.
Hope this helps.
Cheers :drinks:
Jeff P
Allow me to correct myself......b4 everyone else does.... :sorry:
Probably better to bend the the float arm itself rather than the lower float arm stopper.
Sorry about that. :flag_of_truce:
Cheers :drinks:
Jeff P
Thanks for the pictures and the advise Jeff. Is it hard to remove the float from the tank? I removed the tank once before but I titlted it too much and ended up with a nice amount of fuel on my shirt and floor. That sucked. Can anyone tell me the best way to remove the tank without all the hassle of the fuel going all over the place. I figure at least try it when the tank is low but then I would have to wait until then and the weekend is coming so that's a good time to do it.
Thanks,
Mark
Hi Mark.
If your tank still has a good amount of fuel in it you will have to syphon out as much as you can into an appropriate clean fuel container so you can tip it back in after( NO SMOKING !).Bear in mind your not going to get it all out.Once the tank is fairly empty you can remove the tank.In theory no fuel should leak out unless you tip it upside down or the petcock is leaking.Is your bike an early model?.If you have the petcock with a tap with a "prime" setting you could empty the rest of the fuel out on this setting.Also,if your bike is an early model you might wanna check this thread out.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3265.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3265.0)
To remove the sender,stand the tank up on its end,bottom facing you,fuel sender to the top (lean it against something that's not going to damage the paint eg card board,old towel etc,or get a helper to hang on to it for you).You may have to peel back some of the heat shield to free up the wires (you may have to stick it back down with some contact glue after).Then its just a matter of removing the four screws and gently prying the rubber gasket free and guiding the float arm out.Hopefully none of the screws are stuck (Use the right size screwdriver.One of mine was a bit stuck but came out with a gentle tap with an impact driver).Once you get it out you could tip the remainder of fuel out of the sender hole in the tank into your fuel container via a large funnel.When I re installed the sender I applied a thin layer of gasket silicone to the rubber gasket to prevent possible leakage.After all,the gasket is 25 years old!
Hope this helps.
Cheers :drinks:
Jeff P
Thanks for all the information Jeff. When I remove the pedcock I will install the wiring. Just wondering since I have an 86 fj1200 I shouldn't have to worry about fuel leaking out of the pedcock when removing the tank since there is no vacuum opening the valve? Also I guess after I bend the sending unit, I have to put it back on the bike and test with half a tank (12 litres) then try again if it's not synced correctly. Is there an easier way than that?
Mark
Hi Mark.
If you disconnect the main fuel line off the petcock and no fuel continues to leak out your petcock is OK.There is a small o'ring and spring inside which can eventually fail causing it to leak when there is no vacuum connected.
Unfortunately when adjusting the float arm its going to be a "Best Guess".Have a good look at it when you pull it out,plug it into the bike and see what the gauge reads when the float is all the way down and incrementally and slowly raise the float and see what the gauge does.If the gauge raises relatively proportionally to the float arm the sender is OK and just needs adjustment.Bare in mind the fuel gauge has a heavily damped movement to stop it from jumping around as the fuel sloshes around in the tank and moves very slowly.
It might pay to get a piece of paper and trace the position of the float in the fully down position before you bend the float arm/warning light sensor.Put a line of tape along the side of the tank marking where the bottom of the tank is like I did in the picture and hold the sender up to the side and using the tape as a guide.You will want to try to have the bottom of the float roughly 20mm off the bottom of the tank when fully down.Trace the position of the float again for reference in case you think you need to do it again.
When you get it all back together fill it right up,reset the trip meter.You should quite comfortably be able to go 250km without fear of running dry and see what the gauge reads.Should be getting very close to reading empty.Then fill up again and see how much fuel goes in.This will give you a good Idea on whether more adjustment is required using the traced float arm positions as a guide.
This is how I adjusted mine.I did it twice.I get similar mileage to Arnie and James.I am not aware of an easier way but a more knowledgeable FJ'er might chime in.Plenty of very knowledgeable FJ'ers here that's for sure!
Hope this helps and have fun :good2:
Cheers :drinks:
Quote from: chocker on July 06, 2012, 09:08:29 PM
Is there an easier way than that?
Actually, there is an easier way. Motorcyclists have been doing it for generations.
Figure out how many miles/km you get per tankful and use your trip meter to track it. May take a little mental arithmetic, but it will probably be more accurate and reliable than the gauge and light ever will be.
DavidR.
I will definately keep all that in mind. If the petcock starts to leak, what do I need to do to fix it. Can I just replace the O-ring and the spring or is it more complicated than that. I am going to install a new fuel line. I will remember what route it takes so that it won't get kinked. I am going to wire up the petcock as well so that the 90% angle joint will not fall off just in case. I am going to replace the spark plugs as well because they are looking pretty old just from the outside (rusted) and since I'm there I will change them. Any ideas as to what spark plugs to use. Good quality but something that won't break the bank either.
Thanks,
Mark
To reply to David, I do rely on my trip meter but since the sensor shows as empty the bike stalls and I have to switch to reserve when it's not really empty to start with.
Thanks,
Mark
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on July 07, 2012, 08:38:00 AM
Quote from: chocker on July 06, 2012, 09:08:29 PM
Is there an easier way than that?
Actually, there is an easier way. Motorcyclists have been doing it for generations.
Figure out how many miles/km you get per tankful and use your trip meter to track it. May take a little mental arithmetic, but it will probably be more accurate and reliable than the gauge and light ever will be.
DavidR.
Hi David.
Yes you are right.Using the trip meter track fuel consumption is a good method and I did not mean to suggest otherwise.I was just trying to help Mark get his fuel gauge to read empty when there's approximately 1-2 litres left in the tank rather than the 4-5 litres it is currently reading.Is there an easier way to calibrate the fuel sender?
Cheers :drinks:
Jeff P
Sorry, I forgot about the stupid "stall the bike" logic on some models. But wait, you've got an '86? If you want to stop the "reserve function," just unplug the electrical connector on the petcock.
It won't help you gauge reading, but it should stop the stalling/reserve switch issue.
You can replace the o-ring in the petcock. It should be a 5mm OD x 2mm cross section. Carefully disassemble the diaphragm (don't tear it!) and you'll see what to do.
Sorry Jeff, didn't mean to side-track your good advice.
DavidR.
Hi David.
No apology required.Just trying to help a fellow FJ'er out,same as you ! :good:
Cheers :drinks:
Jeff P
Forgive my ignorance, I know what an O-ring is but 5mm OD means outer diameter and the 2mm is the inner? Would I be able to find this at most hardware stores or only a motorcycle dealership?
Mark
2mm is the cross section thickness of the o-ring
Well I was at the point where the tank gauge was showing empty and the low fuel light turned on (I had perviously filled the tank pretty high). This was at about 240 kms. I did another 10 kms on reserve. I then went to fill up the tank and it filled up to 16.075 litres. That should theoretically leave me with approximately 8 litres of fuel. Can some one tell me how many litres are supposed to be in the tank for reserve.
Mark
:wacko3: Wha?
So you drove 10 more km after the light came on? Are you saying that you turned on the reserve then or are you saying that because the light came on you were automatically in reserve? Without going into all the mind-bending conversion calculations, what was your question? All my light does is remind me that I may run out of fuel somewhere in the near future. It can come on at different readings of my trip odo, depending upon the aggressiveness of my riding. I can expect at least another 25-30 miles (40-48km) from the time my light comes on until I have to switch to reserve. I have repeatedly ridden 200 miles (322km) and have reached 220 mi (355km)BEFORE EVEN SWITCHING TO RESERVE. Then again, I've begun to run out of gas afer only a few miles of switching to reserve. What I'm trying to say is, it depends on your riding style during that fill-up. You'll just have to experiment and learn how your bike behaves regarding your fuel guage and reserve capacity. The time I went 220 miles, IIRC, I put in about 5.5 gal (21L). It's been a long time since I began to run out of gas, but I do remember it suprised me how low my trip odo was but I WAS riding it like I stole it at the time. It seems the more you slosh the gas around in the tank, the farther you can go before reserve, but your reserve is very limited in that instance. My experience, only.
Ryan
PS. Oh yeah. Your question. As Arnie has stated, and from my own experience, 21-22 liters should fill up an empty tank.
What I am saying is that the sending unit is not accurate and in turn it has made my bike cut off (shut down) way too early as I have stated previously in this thread. I am not really in the mood to continue on reserve until it runs out and I may be stuck somewhere without access to a gas station. I do use my trip meter as well. It's really an annoyance that I have to fill up when the tank has at least 8 litres left. I usually will get around 200 kms until the low fuel light goes on. This is very low even for spirited riding. Many people are getting at least 300 kms before this happens.
Thanks,
Mark
Hi Mark.
I'm not sure what yamaha intended the reserve amount to be, but when I run my tank down to reserve switch time I can usually put 19-20 litres in,so its got approx 1-3 litres left. (22L tank.)
Cheers :drinks:
Jeff P.
It says on the specs for the bike that it has a 24 litre tank.
Mark
Don't quote me but FJ1100 -- 24 litres ( from Yamaha's Shop Manual ) -- FJ 1200 22 Litres. Fuel light and reserve around 5 litres.
stevecc
Quote from: moparman70 on July 11, 2012, 12:31:26 PM
Don't quote me but FJ1100 -- 24 litres ( from Yamaha's Shop Manual ) -- FJ 1200 22 Litres. Fuel light and reserve around 5 litres.
stevecc
that sounds pretty close mate, the 11,s have a larger tank, but a crappy cap
Quote from: fj11.5 on July 11, 2012, 08:00:48 PM
Quote from: moparman70 on July 11, 2012, 12:31:26 PM
Don't quote me but FJ1100 -- 24 litres ( from Yamaha's Shop Manual ) -- FJ 1200 22 Litres. Fuel light and reserve around 5 litres.
stevecc
that sounds pretty close mate, the 11,s have a larger tank, but a crappy cap
Rod, I believe the tank itself is the same dimensions on all FJs, The later models hold less because the filler neck is recessed into the tank so you cant fill to the top like on the early models.
Harvy
ahhh yes, that and the later tanks are flatter on top, where as the early ones are curved on top , at least my 84 one is (popcorn)
My gauge was jumpy from the start, inaccurate too. Cleaning up the electrical connections helped, but the thing is useless, disconnect it and use your trip meter, fill up every 200kms regardless of riding style and you will never run out.
I gave up when my needle bounced so much, it is now stuck behind the needle stop at the bottom, yes thats right, it went all the way around and became stuck permanently on empty.
bloody silly thing.
I think I will only rely on my trip meter from now on. At least I know approximately how much kms I can do on a tank. Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it. Have a great weekend.
Mark
Again, calibrate the gas gauge by bending the float rod so that the gas gauge reads 1/2 tank when you have 12 liters of fuel in the tank, and call it a day.