Trying to remove the rotors from my 92. Allen heads starting to strip! Anyone have any suggestions? Can I use an impact driver? I'm afraid to whack the bolts in fear of damaging the hub or anything else.
Thanks
Andrew
impact driver should be fine, try heating the bolts as they would have thread lock on them, if your not going to re,use the bolts , a last resort is one that i have done, carefully welded old sockets to the bolt head and undone them with a ratchet wrench , (popcorn)
Quote from: Tapartacus on May 28, 2012, 04:41:32 AM
Trying to remove the rotors from my 92. Allen heads starting to strip! Anyone have any suggestions? Can I use an impact driver? I'm afraid to whack the bolts in fear of damaging the hub or anything else.
Thanks
Andrew
I'd try a good solid whack on the bolt heads with a hammer ( try and keep it flat) first. It will break the seal between the threads and close over the burred allen heads a bit. Then use a socket type allen key if you have one, normal ones are too springy. Also, seat the tool in the head of the bolt with a tap of the hammer. Report back if this doesn't work or the holes are too wrecked and I'm sure there'll be plenty of advice forthcoming.
Noel
I recently put new rotors on and used an air powered impact gun to drive them out. Now worries using this method,. You can also use the hammer driven tool to break them loose as well. Like this one: Hammer driven Impact Driver (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_36882_36882)
(popcorn)
Heat is your friend. They come right out. Try a same butane torch right on the bolt heads for a few seconds. No beating will be required.
Leon
By a few seconds, try a solid minute and a half. Half-hearting it just makes it more difficult to deal with.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/power_news_--_damaged_allen_bolt_removal.htm (http://www.mototuneusa.com/power_news_--_damaged_allen_bolt_removal.htm) May also prove interesting.
Quote from: andyb on May 28, 2012, 10:54:34 AM
By a few seconds, try a solid minute and a half. Half-hearting it just makes it more difficult to deal with.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/power_news_--_damaged_allen_bolt_removal.htm (http://www.mototuneusa.com/power_news_--_damaged_allen_bolt_removal.htm) May also prove interesting.
Of course you're right, what the hell was I thinking?!!
I used this #10 bolt/nut remover on mine. It just barely grips the outside edges of the bolt, so you have to make sure you tap the remover as far onto the bolt as possible. Worked like a charm for me.
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t435/coreyoreo11/nutremover.jpg)
Corey where can I get one of those?
Andrew
Quote from: Tapartacus on May 28, 2012, 11:09:13 PM
Corey where can I get one of those?
Andrew
You can also cut a slot into the head and with heat get it out. So if you have a thin blade cutting tool like you can get on many air tools or even a Dremal this bolt will come out....
Quote from: Tapartacus on May 28, 2012, 11:09:13 PM
Corey where can I get one of those?
Andrew
Andrew, I got mine at sears in a small kit, but Harbor Freight has them too, as well as flea-bay.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/craftsman-bolt-out-5-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover/p-00952061000P?sLevel=0&redirectType=SKIP_LEVEL (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/craftsman-bolt-out-5-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover/p-00952061000P?sLevel=0&redirectType=SKIP_LEVEL)
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I've chickened out and am going to bring my bike into my local dealer and have them put the rotors on for me. I have an issue with the front tire not spinning freely. I know the brakes drag a bit but this is a bit too much for my liking. I have done a full rebuild on the calipers and have replaced the lines with braided $140, so I have to suspect bearings or something else. I just want to ride the darn thing! So far I have rebuilt the carbs $200, spent $300 to coat the tank(it was rusted) rebuilt calipers $120, replaced worn grips both sides $60, flushed brake and clutch lines $100 on brake fluid, new valve cover gasket and bolt grommets $100, new Chinese wave rotors $200, paid $3500 for the bike, then $500 to bring it into Canada from the US..... having it all working perfectly and riding off into the sunset... PRICELESS!
Andrew
The FJ's in my arsenal.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95019607@N00/7307738634/#in/photostream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/95019607@N00/7307738634/#in/photostream)
Tapartacus very nice both are sweet. Have fun riding off in to the sun set. :biggrin:
So get this! Brought my 92 in to replace rotors and great news! they found a nail in my rear tire, another $260 bucks. Also they said that after replacing the rotors the brakes still rub excessively. They said the callipers are not retracting. I told them that I rebuilt them already! they asked what I lubed the pistons with, I said uh... brake fluid? he said I should have greased them, is this correct? My manual says nothing about grease. Any thoughts?. They want to rebuild them again, all my hard work and also my pride at all my hard work down the drain.
Andrew
Quote from: Tapartacus on June 05, 2012, 11:10:24 PM
So get this! Brought my 92 in to replace rotors and great news! they found a nail in my rear tire, another $260 bucks. Also they said that after replacing the rotors the brakes still rub excessively. They said the callipers are not retracting. I told them that I rebuilt them already! they asked what I lubed the pistons with, I said uh... brake fluid? he said I should have greased them, is this correct? My manual says nothing about grease. Any thoughts?. They want to rebuild them again, all my hard work and also my pride at all my hard work down the drain.
Andrew
Rubber grease is used on external rubber parts only.... I would not use it on the piston seals. Brake fluid is all that is required.
Harvy
I've used pbr brake seal grease with no issues , compatible with all . brake fluids
I thought PBR was for internal lubrication only?! :lol:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/171_08_06_12_4_00_13.jpeg)
not if thats one of those watered down UsOf a beers, that would boil off pretty quickly :lol:
Quote from: Harvy on June 06, 2012, 01:26:35 AM
Rubber grease is used on external rubber parts only.... I would not use it on the piston seals. Brake fluid is all that is required.
If you've ever had the pleasure to pull something apart that's been assembled with that red sh*t f**ken rubber grease (say inside a hydraulic ram for example) and seen what becomes of that CRAP... It goes as hard as a rock and gets in behind the seals and interferes with how the seal is supposed to flex and conform to do it's job properly... Every earth-moving equipment workshop I go in to manage I throw every tub of that SH*T out I can find.
If the piston and the bore are perfectly clean and not pitted then brake fluid should work fine and nothing else should be used to contaminate what is a highly specialized fluid.
Another thing to suggest is to ensure that where on the calliper housing that is contacted by the edge of the metal backing plate of the pads, and the pins, should be smooth so the pads are completely free to slide and retract to where they need to be and are not going to "hook up" on/be influenced by notches or build-up of brake dust or other crud. I use a small hand wire brush to get into where the pads slide to prep the housing and fine emery cloth to clean the pins and the times I've been too lazy to do it I end up regretting it and then pull apart to do it properly as I can feel the difference in either too much pedal/lever free travel or a slightly binding pad.
don't know what red lube you don't like , but the pbr stuff is made for brakes , its very thin , almost watery grease made to use with brake systems , ill take a pic of the tube ,
I always grease the pistons.
And I always use grease made specially for the job. I use Grease from ATE. They make brakes.
Brake fluid is not a lubricant.
When the bolt has been damaged and you're not going to use it when reinstalling the rotor, I simply weld a nut onto the bolt-head
The heat from the welding helps. Some skill needed.
If you had the pistons fully retracted and pumped them out to squeeze the pads and rotor, they will initially drag.
What you need to do is push the pistons back in about 3mm and try it again. The pads are retracted by flexure of the seals. When you pump a fully retractred piston out, the seals will "stick" and not retract the piston. Resetting the piston slightly will push the seal back so it can now flex and pull the piston off the pad.
You might have to try it a few times to get the seal in the proper orientation.
DavidR.