So this is more an update than a problem.
Rebuilt the forks and the carbs, put bike back together with the new unipods, new oil and new iridium spark plugs.
Tried to fire her up, no good, battery dead from last attempt about 3 or 4 weeks ago.
Charged it fully last night. Very chilly this morning. Tried on full choke, no luck.
Fuel tap on primer setting. not sure what to diagnose as yet. Cant balance carbs until I can get the bike started...Gonna try again later on this afternoon when its warmer as the bike would fire straight up on warm days before the rebuild.
Any ideas what it might be?(Yeah I know it could really be anything, just wanna know what I need to look out for first)
check the simple stuff first.
make sure plugs have correct wires on them , coil on left goes to 1/4 right to 2/3
make sure fuel is reaching carbs by opening the drain screw at the bottom of each fuel bowl and see if fuel comes out.
did you squeeze the excess oil out of the uni-pods , if they are totally soaked, no air will flow to start your fj.
Ah, I will try squeeze the pods of excess oil, I was not too sure of how much excess would be excess (I took a cloth and attempted to dry them off)
I didnt even realise the plugs had specific wires as I just put the ones I took off onto the same place plug
I will check the drain bowl as well as Im not sure if the carbs are indeed recieving fuel(I turned the idle screw up quite a bit just to make sure..cant really tell where it will idle until it starts). I only put 2 liters of fuel back into the tank as I wasnt sure if it would start and I would need to drain the tank again. This wouldnt be a problem though?
I will check during my lunch time as its warming up nicely outisde. That reminds me..I still have to put brake fluid back into the front brake reservoir and bleed the brakes :dash1: where'd I put that syringe...
Might be time to try the "prime" position on the petcock too...
Cheers :drinks:
Jeff P
Quote from: FJTillDeath on May 07, 2012, 12:51:12 AM
Fuel tap on primer setting.
Quote from: flips on May 07, 2012, 03:37:42 AM
Might be time to try the "prime" position on the petcock too...
Cheers :drinks:
Jeff P
Haha already on the prime position :i_am_so_happy:. Just an hour til lunch now, so Im gonna go see if I can get her started in the heat, then ride her to the nearest motorcycle shop and get the carbs synced there. I figured I would rather get it done professionally for now
So....
Bike would not start after everything. Eventually I tried turning the idle screw a bit more in, then a bit more and it fired up. My god it sounded like a tractor!
It seems I have exhuast leaks on all 4 exhuasts. There must be a problem with my exhuast ports as Randys gaskets fit stock bikes normally. When I put them in mine they fell out for being a slight amount loose. Still got them in though. It also appears as if one of the spark plugs is not firing.
Took the bike to nearest dealer, could not book in, but mehanic said there were exhuast leaks and sounded like a dead plug (I probably didnt install the boot correctly). Either way the bike felt like it had no power and struggled to get it past 60km/h. I think th bike may have overheated as it died several times on the way back to the office until it would not restart. So I had a wonderful push back to the office. I will see if the bike starts tonight. If not its a long walk home. Yamaha said they could only book me in tomorrow.
Diagnoses:
Carbs synced. However mechanic says I need to get a bigger main jets. I believe him because whenever I open up the throttle the bike really struggles to pull. Fine while low on throttle
Otherwise exhuast was sealed, not sure how and plug cable fixed. Bike has a weird rattle and what sounds like detonation
otherwise bike sounds like a demon with the pods on
Jessie, I'm suspicious of needing larger main jets. What size pilot jets are you running? #40 jets are really mandatory.
Stock 112.5 main jets are probably OK. What about shims under the needles? I seem to remember 0.5mm spacer under the needle e-clip would do the trick. Are your needles adjustable, or do you have the fixed (single groove) needles?
The pilots are already 42.5s
Im not sure what needles I have, got the ones that came in Randys kit? Are you talking about the needle that skrews into the carb and protrudes through it where you can feel it in the intake (front or behind the butterflies? If you are talking about that needle I can screw it in lower and higher, or in and out.
My main concern now is the exhaust leak I have. Whatever temporary solution the mechanic made, it has now expired as my bike died again this morning. Unfortunately with 0 cents ti my name and owing somebody 50 bucks, I really have to wait til payday again to work on the FJ
Damit, cant edit previous post
Were you talking about these screws?(circled red - note this was before the carbs were rebuilt)
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h410/FJTILLDEATH/Carbki.jpg)
Hi Jesse,
No mate, they are the idle mixture screws. The needles are the long spikes attached to your diaphragms. The originals are not adjustable, but you can get away with putting a small washer under them I believe. The after market ones have several grooves on the top, with a circlip in the appropriate grove, to raise and lower the needle position.
Cheers
Mike
Ah okay, looks like need to find a few washers then.
The reason I thought it was these was becuase I had forgotten to insert an oring with the one assembly. I figured since one didnt come out to leace it as it was
unless you have an aussie spec 1100 the needles have 6 adjustment slots :rofl2:
:dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2:
Stuffsakes!
So I traced where my exhuast leak came from. It seems the mechanic replaced the 2 studs (the onlt 2 studs the bike had for the exhuast) with stainless steel ones.
That however is not the problem. When I started the FJ up at lunchtime to take it home quickly and get my other bike it died within 2 minutes of riding, i thought this was too soon to have overheated again and should have cooled off from this morning.
As it stands, the new mounting bolt has clean broken from its mounting part. It gets better. the stud broke in half, and theres still half of it left inside the mounting point. Gets better...looks as though its stripped the thread as it broke loose. Gets even better, mechanic basically told me "fuck you, sort out your own problem". Gets better, cant get a trailer or anything to help me get the FJ somewhere safe and away from thieves.
And one final cherry on top: While inspecting the broken stud I noticed I had a rather heavy leak coming from the right side brake caliper. Got no idea where its leaking from as it never leaked before, but the disk is covered and so is the wheel. The only thing I did to the caliper before was take it off the wheel, detach it from the brake line and empty it of fluid. Then put new fluid in and bled. Yes i tightened the cap correctly, it had already been leaking fluid before I put new fluid in.
I know to fix the exhuast stud I will have to turn to helicoils. I know those arent cheap and not particularly easy either. Got no idea what to do about the caliper as I have no clue where its leaking from
May I repeat. STUFFSAKES!
Sounds like you need a better FJ to throw your money into.
Quote from: FJTillDeath on May 09, 2012, 08:25:27 AM
...
And one final cherry on top: While inspecting the broken stud I noticed I had a rather heavy leak coming from the right side brake caliper. Got no idea where its leaking from as it never leaked before, but the disk is covered and so is the wheel. The only thing I did to the caliper before was take it off the wheel, detach it from the brake line and empty it of fluid. Then put new fluid in and bled. Yes i tightened the cap correctly, it had already been leaking fluid before I put new fluid in. ...
Banjo crush washers, get 'em both back in there, one on either side? Sometimes after they've been used/crushed you can get another go out of them by annealing. otherwise you might try new ones, they cheap. hopefully not leaking at the pistons.
Jesse ,
what a great opportunity you have to learn everything about the fj , you get to work on carbs and fix broken studs and fix leaky brakes and on and on.
Hang in there man , take a little pride in the fact you haven't given up yet.
find and old dog to help the young pup.
If I lived where you are, we would be sharing a few drinks and wrenchin that fj back to life. :drinks:
Jesse,
You have all of the correct carb parts, you do not need larger jets. You do not need washers as the new carb kits you installed have the adjustable needles in them.
I am not sure how you cleaned the carbs prior to installing the kits, but if the small internal orifices are still plugged or restricted then it is not going to run correctly.
Unfortunately, you are asking for advice, but the details when you as for advice are not complete. Then based on the limited information, advice is given and it is not what you need.
I think you have the factory service manual, you need to get the spark plugs hooked up correctly. The idle mixture screws will not prevent the bike from starting unless they are closed, which based on you earlier posts you closed them more to get it started.
The air filters, did you follow the directions, because if you did you would have sprayed the outside of the filter and unless you soaked them while spraying them, you can't get too much oil.
You need to get the exhaust sorted, then the ignition wiring and then start on the carbs. If they are grossly out of sync you could have one or more carbs with the throttle plate totally closed and it will only run on the cylinders that are getting air & fuel...
One problem at a time...one at a time.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on May 09, 2012, 11:40:14 AM
Jesse,
You have all of the correct carb parts, you do not need larger jets. You do not need washers as the new carb kits you installed have the adjustable needles in them. Cool thats good to know
I am not sure how you cleaned the carbs prior to installing the kits, but if the small internal orifices are still plugged or restricted then it is not going to run correctly. When I took the carbs off I simply sprayed carb cleaner everyhwhere and wiped. The bike ran properly before so I dont think they are dirty, but hey I may be wrong, the one mistake I made was not making a copy of the names that came in the carb kit. When I replaced everything I simply took what looked the same and put the new one in, I knew the names of some of the items, but not all. I didnt make that mistake with the carb oring and washer kit though. Silly question for you, but there are some items that come in the carb rebuild kit that are also in the carb oring and screw kit? I ask because I had a few left over parts I could not put in the carbs - orings specificallyI have not run the bike and used carb cleaner as the group warned me against that
Unfortunately, you are asking for advice, but the details when you as for advice are not complete. Then based on the limited information, advice is given and it is not what you need. For that I apologise, I can remember larny names, but only when it comes to science, still have to learn the mechanical terms
I think you have the factory service manual, you need to get the spark plugs hooked up correctly. The idle mixture screws will not prevent the bike from starting unless they are closed, which based on you earlier posts you closed them more to get it started. I did get plug connected properly by the mechanic, electrical circuits scare me just a little :biggrin: The idle screw I hadnt screwed in enough as when the bike did start and idle it was idling at 500rpm or something silly, so previously I had not screwed it enough enough
The air filters, did you follow the directions, because if you did you would have sprayed the outside of the filter and unless you soaked them while spraying them, you can't get too much oil. Yes I made sure I followed them, I think I just may have sprayed a little too much fluid on as the pods had turned nearly yellow. After wiping them off they returned to a more black colour, I dont think the pods were the problem though
You need to get the exhaust sorted, then the ignition wiring and then start on the carbs. If they are grossly out of sync you could have one or more carbs with the throttle plate totally closed and it will only run on the cylinders that are getting air & fuel... According to the yamaha mechanic, he balanced the carbs, he didnt tell me how much out of sync they were. But as the guy who helped me with the timing chain said, if the carbs are balanced, they are balanced to what the shimming currently is, and the shimming is all over the place. I think the main problem with the bike running so rough was the exhuast leak. I mean to leak from all 4 ports, obviously performance would be terrible. The mechanic stuffed something into the ports which helped as I could feel a bit more pwer from the bike and a lot less tractor noise from it. However with the manifold stud braking I had a new really bad exhuast leak which now causes the bike to die, very soon after startingOne problem at a time...one at a time.
Randy - RPM
One prob lem at a time is what I plan to do. starting with the exhuast. Then I will try setting the needle position. The only needle I didnot tighten all the way is the needle I circled in the pic. So maybe the reason for the bike not recieving its power is becuase of this. I have a few weeks before payday to think about the problems anyway before I can actually do anything about them..For now I will find some jokes to post up on the forum
Jesse - you can probably still get some work done on the carbs.
Here's a link to a post in the files section. Has some good diagrams of the carb with part names. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=658.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=658.0)
If you can get your hands on some more carb cleaner, here's another excellent writeup on these carbs: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=655.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=655.0)
I would suggest setting your idle mixture screws (the screws you posted pictures of) to the base setting recommended by Randy (probably 3 turns out?). What that means is to screw them all the way in until they LIGHTLY bottom out - DO NOT tighten too much - that will mess them up! Then unscrew them 3 turns (or whatever Randy said to set them at!). I usually make a half turn at a time - so 6 half turns = 3 full turns.
Also check your float level. a good pic for that is here: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6580.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6580.0)
Finally, try to synch your carbs. I'm looking for an old post that had directions on how to make a homemade (and cheap!) monometer to get the carbs synched up.
Lots of good info in the files section - all you need (and MORE!) to know about carbs and cleaning and tuning and modifying in there.
Keep up your efforts - it will pay off in the end with a good strong KOOKALOO!
Jesse,
The adjusting screws you red-circled in the pic are your idle screws. You don't want them tightened all the way down. You will probably have to lightly seat them, and then back them out 2-4 turns. They control how much extra fuel/air mix the bike gets at idle.
What I'm guessing you're calling the idle screw is the big one in the middle that controls idle speed.
Arnie
Yeah thats the one I am talking about.
Okay I will try adjusting the idle screws to 3 turns out, I will start at 2 and go from there. That may very well be a problem as when I set those I simply screwed in, then out and copied the rest to the one. I will get the carbs apart again and measure float heights and clean again..
Thanks for clearing that up and thanks for the links (I had some of them already, just have to get a decent printer, its not so cool tyoing on a laptop with dirty hands..
Here's some ideas for homemade manometers to synch the carbs. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6617.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6617.0)
I really like the idea of the simple tube in a U shape taped to a piece of wood or cardboard. Simply balance 2 carbs at a time - 1&2, then 3&4, finally 2&3. Synching the carbs may make a HUGE difference - but you've got to have the idle mixture screws set the same first!
Also, thinking a bit more on it, make sure an old o-ring didn't stay in the carb when you removed the idle mixture screws and replaced with new o-rings. Having two orings in there will keep you from bottoming the mixture screw, so you wouldn't have a good start point to screw it back out to.
Chris W.