Okay not yet, but I just got my big box from Randy at RPM and not a day late (sorry for bugging you so much Randy :shout:)
Im just excited to finally have my box, havent opened because I am at work. Will only get a chance to start on Sunday afternoon but Im really excited I just had to share now :i_am_so_happy:
Have a great weekend all and stay safe
After all the preparing I had done and planning, I finally got to put some time into the FJ last night, only to find out I had not planned enough.
I planned to change out the old oil and put the new exhaust gaskets in, for that I was gonna take the bike for a ride to warm the oil up. but it was so cold, the FJ would not start, at all.
Since that was a dismal fail I decided to move on and get the spark plugs and boots replaced, thought this would help starting the bike in the cold, so removed the seat and tank only to find out that the spark plug tool I had was a size too small. Finally found something thatI could use, but already dark since its now winter. managed to remove 2 of the plugs easy with the other 2 being wedged in real tight. Managed to find some extra leavarage and by 9 0 clock I had all the plugs out. Since I have to work outside(no garage) I decided to call it quits.
Things I noticed and some problems I have questions for:
(if you guys prefer me to start new opics let me know, theyre small so I just thought I would put them here)
My windscreen, it appears that when I had some fun on my FJ 2 sundays back the wind damaged my screen. 5 of the 8 holding rubber mount bolts(or whatever they are) broke clean off, leaving 3 in an okay condition, I still have all 8 pieces, but not in good condition. Should I attempt to fix with glue and such or should I replace?
My choke switch - I can can set it up on e notch, but it gets stuck. I have to really apply good force to get it to the remaining notches. Would lube fix this or is there a deeper problem?
My fuel tank cover. when I went to fill up with fuel a while back I notcied the problem. I stick the key in and turn but it does not open the cover. It takes a good deal of wiggling and such to get it to open. Tried to open it last night with the key and noticed the same problem. I have noticed I have slight trouble turning my key in the ignition slot, so would tis be the key, or a problem with the gas cap? and how do I fix.
Today I hope to get the FJ started so as to warm up the oil, otherwise, if it doesnt start, I will just endure the wait.
List for today is:
Replace spark plugs and boot
Drain and replace oil
remove gunk in exhaust port so to be ready for when I put the exhaust back on
Remove the airbox
remove the carbs for storage to work on, on the weekend
Quick question:
Do I need to stick rags into the exhaust ports as I would into the intake ports where the carbs go?
Ok, lets start with your port question - Its always a good idea to cover any opening in an engine that might allow dirt, bugs, frogs, stones, etc to get in.
Windscreen - If these are the nylon screws that hold the screen to the fairing, you should replace them. I'm guessing that as your bike is older than you are :-) those screws have become brittle from exposure to sun and ozone and the heads have snapped off. Replace them all. You don't want to have the screen fall off. There are a couple of possible difficulties - getting the remainder of the screw thread out and finding new nylon screws. You can usually get the threaded shaft out with a sharp pick poked into one side and then just turn them out. You may need to find a specialist fastener shop to get new nylon machine screws, but they are there so that if the bike stops suddenly and you don't that the screws will break and you won't be sliced by the screen as you go flying past.
Choke - Don't force it !! Check carefully to find out why its getting stuck. Put a bit of lube on the rods on the carbs and maybe a bit on the cable, but it should move relatively freely. If its hanging up there's probably something bent.
Lock cylinder on the fuel cap lock - Could be the key or the lock is worn. You could try spraying a bit of WD40 (or CRC 5/56) in there to get it to work better, but you may have to take it to a locksmith or replace the set.
Cheers,
Arnie
Quote from: Arnie on April 24, 2012, 10:21:49 AM
Choke - Don't force it !! Check carefully to find out why its getting stuck. Put a bit of lube on the rods on the carbs and maybe a bit on the cable, but it should move relatively freely. If its hanging up there's probably something bent.
Don't overlube, either, or it'll not want to stay in the on position. Needs to move freely, but not loosely.
Quote from: andyb on April 24, 2012, 05:19:57 PM
Quote from: Arnie on April 24, 2012, 10:21:49 AM
Choke - Don't force it !! Check carefully to find out why its getting stuck. Put a bit of lube on the rods on the carbs and maybe a bit on the cable, but it should move relatively freely. If its hanging up there's probably something bent.
Don't overlube, either, or it'll not want to stay in the on position. Needs to move freely, but not loosely.
+1 on that, it takes a while before it grabs again long enough to idle till warm.....
Thanks for all the info guys, will check all that out sometime this week, just glad to know that options do exist.
So last night I replaced the spark plugs and the one boot. Tried to start the FJ and it fired up once but died again cos I didnt gas it. was also just using the gas in the carbs as the tank was disconnected. Plus I wasnt bothered to force the choke so it wasnt too bad for just one click on the choke. i didn't try further than that as it was already starting to get dark.
decided to skip the oil and filter and leave it for tonight,
Did manage to get that dastardly airbox out. first loosened the subframe bolts, bent it a bit back and also unskrewed the right side of the airbox. I was then left with a bit of a problem as I wasnt about to leave the carbs like that on the bike. Took me a while to figure out how to disconnect the throttle (disconnected by the white box) and the choke took a while too as I hadnt read the manual on how to remove them. I remvoed the cable right from the handlebar assembly. So while I have it out I plan to check up on it and see whats going on. I forgot to drain the carbs of excess petrol as it was pitch black already (6 30). SO when I went for a shower and came back I found my room smelling strongly of petrol. :wacko2:
oh well, tonight I drain the oil and do the exhuast gaskets, I figure with little under an hours worth of light I should be able to get atleast that done.
Since I have most of the weekend off for a change I am going to use that time to sort out the forks and try do the carbs. While I have the exhaust off, I also plan to get some proper bolts/ studs to replace the ones I currently have.. :flag_of_truce:
Winter really is rediculous here, 6 o clock and its already dark, which only gave me 30 mins to work on the FJ :dash2:
So last night I only managed to get the exhuast off and drain the oil. Tonight I will replace the oil filter and hopefully get a chance to get the top oring from the fork so I get another oring to replace it.
Will put the new oil in the bike as soon as everything is put back together. Observation from the oil. There was a considerable amount of silvery looking fibres that seemed to come out all at once, so it looks like I have some decent clutch wear as AndyB said a while back. The oil was pitch black again and I had only done about 500km on it(but it had been in the bike for about 4 or 5 months)
I did notice some white residue in the oil which I think might have come from the silicone that was used to seal up the engine.
I also noticed what looked like oil sweating around the whole bottom of the engine - will supply pics on monday
My guess is that its from the oil cooler line(s), if not I have no idea where so much oil came from
I did try remove the oil cooler lines, but those are stuck solid :dash2:
One quick question which confuses me:
This is described as the fuel tap in my manual
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h410/FJTILLDEATH/Tank.jpg)
So then what is this for(circled red)
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h410/FJTILLDEATH/Tank1.jpg)
I ask becuase I thought it was to turn off the fuel. I used it once when I removed the tank becuase I did not want to drain the tank, but no matter the position fuel would come out the tank.
Then when I removed the tank this week I found that fuel was not coming out as usual. I flicked the switch and out poured petrol. Closed it and then it stopped the petrol, so now I am really confused. I thought it may be the reserve switch but got the saame results with half a tank as to an almost empty tank.
Clarity please and thanks guys
Jesse....NOT BEING THE OWNER OF A RED AND WHITE, I can't be certain......but I believe your fuel petcock is a vacuum operated one.....see the brass spigot - I believe there should be a rubber vacuum hose on it. The circled tap is the fuel on or prime tap, but flow control in the on position is supposed to be controlled by vacuum......
Please correct me if I'm wrong guys.
Harvy
Harvy, I believe you are spot on. The Fuel Tap (both of your pics are of the Fuel Tap Jesse in one you have circled the Lever on the Fuel Tap) has three positions: Off, On and Prime. It will let fuel flow when the lever is in the Prime position regardless of the vacuum tube being attached or not - motor running or not. It will let fuel flow in the On position only when the vacuum pulls the diaphragm open (I believe even turning the motor over with the starter is enough vacuum to open the diaphragm). Off is off.
Jesse - on another of your comments: try to find the proper studs for your exhaust manifolds. Using bolts works and is much easier to find but eventually you will strip out a threaded hole and that will be a major pain in the ass to fix and will really never be the same! If you get the studs in and use stainless nuts it will last a very long time and no risk of stripping a mounting hole.
Tim
There is no OFF!
Only ON and PRIME and work as Tim and Harvy described
DavidR.
Okay, now I am slightly confused...
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the 84/85 FJs were gravity fed and not vacuum? OR does that relate only to the carbs, meaning that all FJs have a vacuum on the fuel tank?
To qoute axiom R about the studs - I did manage to get some to replace all the bolts, I just have to figure out how to remove the old part (whatever the long thing the nut skrews onto - Im still learning the names :crazy:) from the mounting holes. But I do have them.
But wow! I had a busy few days and encountered many problems while working on the FJ! I will however start new threads for those topics. I sure have learnt a shitload in the last few days though.
My tool inventory too has increased a massive amount! I started out with nothing and now have a bunch of things! :biggrin:
Quote from: FJTillDeath on May 02, 2012, 01:15:48 AM
Okay, now I am slightly confused...
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the 84/85 FJs were gravity fed and not vacuum? OR does that relate only to the carbs, meaning that all FJs have a vacuum on the fuel tank?
Hi Jesse, yes it is gravity fed, you are correct, by vacuum operated it means that the vacuum (suction if you like) generated by the engine pulling air in, acts on the tiny diaphragm in the fuel tap (this is the small black piece you see at the back of the tap assembly held in by a plate with what looks like 4 screws in it).
When the engine turns over it creates a vacuum in the inlet manifold(S) this caused the little diaphragm to open and allow fuel to run out of the tap. When you shut the engine down, it loses vacuum and the diaphragm closes, stopping the fuel flow.
In the prime position, it bypasses all of this, to allow the fuel to flow whether the engine is running or not.
Hope that helps.
Mike
Thanks, that makes things crystal clear. So it would obviously make sense to keep it on the "on" position so that it doesnt accidentally flood the carbs and cause them to leak petrol?
Just for observation, it may not be clear in the pic, but it can now definitely be confirmed I have later model fork lowers with the normal wheel and brakes.
Notice the brake pad wear line, David mentioned to me theres a few mils which have not been used
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h410/FJTILLDEATH/Brake.jpg)
Good news is I still have a bit of pad left haha.
I think you're fooling yourself about the pad life. IIRC, the spec for minimum pad thickness is 2mm. I think you're already there. Also, do you have ventilated rotors? I thought I saw vent slots in the rotor. post-88 lowers, pre-89 rotors, post-88 calipers=???
Heres a slightly better close up (will take more from different angles)
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h410/FJTILLDEATH/Brakerotor.jpg)
Quote from: FJTillDeath on May 02, 2012, 04:26:19 AM
Heres a slightly better close up (will take more from different angles)
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h410/FJTILLDEATH/Brakerotor.jpg)
good eye Ed.
that is a 84-87, 16" wheel with vented rotors using 88 -03 calipers and forks. :scratch_one-s_head:
from the pic of the brake pads it looks like there is a ridge on the pad wear surface where it is not contacting the rotor. is this the case? :shok:
your fj has a mismatch problem with the brakes. you should install a 17" wheel with rotors to correct it.
Yeppers...and then... throw those oem calipers away and get some R-1 blue spots....and then.... throw those rubber brake lines away and get some stainless steel braided lines.....and then....replace your front brake master cylinder with a 14mm unit.....and then...... :shout:
"and then?? ??"
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af232/soundmindryan/andthen.jpg)
The Front brakes to Blue Dots is the best upgrade you can do and it is easy to do if you have the 88 to 90 front end. You would think if you have the newer front end you would have the 17 inch wheel but maybe only the forks were available.
So the upgrade is pretty easy -- 17 inch front wheel with correct discs ( they will not be vented disc plates ) . This will solve your lack of surface area as it look like 1/4 of the rotor is not in use.
The get the Blue dots and you will just love the feel of the brakes. I have the ones you have on now and once I converted I was very pleased.
Guys, guys, guys! Calm down now :wacko1: I cant start with the moditis until the FJ is actually running smoothly
But Pat's ideas really sound schweet!
I too have no idea why 17inch wheel was not used, and to find one may be a bit of a pain (locally)
When the money comes in, so will the upgrades :biggrin: :wacko3:
Jesse,
What a refreshingly honest and intelligent attitude. Seriously.
I have an idea why the 17" wheel is not there even though the 4-pot brakes and later fork lowers are....
This bike is a "bitsa" that's been resurrected from a number of scrap heaps and on-sold to a young, unsuspecting, guy who didn't know how to pick the myriad of faults it had.
The dealer who sold it to you should be "necklaced".
Just my opinion.
Arnie
Arnie, you are in no doubt wrong.
I have heard many horror stories about this dealer, but sadly it is on of the 4 dealers in my city.
Before I had my accident, I knew nothing about the FJ. Now from this site I have learned quite a lot. And I know that I got my FJ for a steal of a price, but for a good reason too..
Unfortunately in my city, bikes normally gor for about 50 percent more than the major cities in my country, but then too, bikes in my country are just far too expensive...
Either way, I will get my FJ up and in good nic, even if it takes me many years:-)
Rome wasnt built in a day after all...
Now where did I put that spanner... :bye:
Jesse,
Hope you're right that I'm wrong.
There is no question that you've learned a lot since you joined this site, And you've shown great patience and effort in this learning towards resurrecting your FJ.
I applaud your resolve.
Arnie
Shit sorry Arnie, meant to say you were more than likely right
And yeah I have, but its only because I have such a troublesome FJ