I'm hoping to install my new RPM valve and springs today. I have never "torn into" a set of motorcycle forks before and am a little hesitant.
From a previous post, Randy had posted "Here is the instructions: Drain the oil, refill with specified oil, install valves, set oil height, install specified springs and (cut "D" rod if you have one) screw the tops on."
So is it really that simple? No spacers to cut? No "sag" to measure?
I'm going to go out and take off the handle bars, get the fork caps off, and drain the oil then I'll come back and check this thread for words of wisdon and/or re-assurance.
Thanks in advance.
Kurt
well get on with it and take some pics so we can all have a look how easy it is to do
then take the bike out and the right a report on how you think its better than the old set up
you will have to cut spacers for the springs to set preload. other than that it is simple. :good2:
Any idea of what spacer lenght to try first. Stock '87 FJ, no luggage, 160lb. rider.
Kurt
it is one of those things I can't remember off the top of my head. I think it was 15mm above the fork, check the race tech instructions. :mail1:
OK, thanks. I got my Clymer and Haynes out. Randy's instructions and Race Tech's instructions and trying to meld them all together.
Quote from: bugboy on April 02, 2012, 01:30:16 PM
OK, thanks. I got my Clymer and Haynes out. Randy's instructions and Race Tech's instructions and trying to meld them all together.
Make sure you support the front of the bike before you take the fork caps off...
From RPM's instructions for RPM Fork Valve Installation -
The RPM fork valve is made exclusively for RPM for the fitment of the 84-93 Yamaha FJ1100 and FJ1200. The valve sits on top of your damping rod and inside the fork spring.
Easy Installation:
1. If you have the dampening adjustment then you need to adjust it to the center or medium setting. DONE
2. Remove the fork springs and drain the fork oil. Remove any other type of old school vavle that might be in the way. Done
3. Fill with Motul Team Fanctory Line 5wt synthetic oil.
4. Install RPM Fork Valve
5. Set oil level (See below).
6. Install your springs
7. If you have the dampening "D" rod you need to cut it off 2" from the adjusting head.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/2078_02_04_12_1_50_32_3.jpeg)
??? Like this??? I hope!!
8. Reassemble.
9. Ride and enjoy hitting bumps, dips, pot holes, etc.
Installing the fork oil and Setting the Level
1. Fork spring and RPM for Valve removed.
2. Fork fully compressed.
3. Fill forks with recomended oil: 1/2 liter of Motul 5 wt. Team Factory Sythetic oil.
4. Cycle the fork up and down to remove any trapped air.
5. Install the RPM Fork Valve with the tip up (It fits inside of the fork spring) See fig. A. The damper rod goes in first and then the valve goes on top of that???
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/2078_02_04_12_1_50_32_2.jpeg)
Like this?
6. Push RPM Fork Valve down to damping rod (using the spring for this works best, then remove the spring).
7. Measure oil level with -
a. Shock fully compressed
b. RPM Fork Valve covered in oil.
c. The fork springs removed.
8. Add or remove oil as needed; reommended level of the FJ is 6" from the top of the upper fork tube.
9. Install fork spring, washer and spacer if used and install the fork end cap.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/2078_02_04_12_1_50_31_0.jpeg)
Like this? spring, washer, spacer, cap
Does the above post look like I'm on the right track on this install? I'm kind of waiting on some feedback before I press on. I don't want to screw anything up or have to do it twice.
Thanks for you help.
Kurt
My RPM valves arrived today, I am quite eager to see this all go together. (http://www.smileyhut.com/excited/dribble.gif) (http://www.smileyhut.com)
Kurt,
Sorry, I have been sleeping...It is hard to work Australian hours in California
You are on the right track.
You need to add the oil prior to dropping in the valves(#3 in the instructions). It is difficult for the oil to get below the valve if not.
Everything else looks correct except I do not see a spacer in the bottom photo. The spacers average between 4-5 inches (I believe working from memory).
The spacer length is determined by the second page of the spring instructions and the measurements you need to take from the spring to the top of the fork(fully extended) and the total length of the cap & washer. Subtract the distance of the cap and that give you the spacer length.
Remember, measure it all twice and only cut once...
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy. I'll get back to work on it.
Quote from: bugboy on April 02, 2012, 07:23:03 PM
Thanks Randy. I'll get back to work on it.
Okay, I will be back to the shop Tuesday around 1:00pm PST if you have more questions.
Randy - RPM
Hey Kurt, got your PM. Looks like Randy is assisting you well.
As a early adopter, if you would, take lot's of pictures and do a narrative on each one, and then you can post them in the files section to help others.
I was but this shit is fighting me.
I've got the lower cut-off portion of the damper rod through the "D" shaped hole. Filled with oil. Put in RPM valve. Put in Race Tech spring. Topped all of that with a washer and the fork cap and this is what I get.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/2078_02_04_12_7_19_18_2.jpeg)
This pic was taken with the forks extended (front tire off the ground).
Ain't no way that cap is going to screw on. What step did I miss or what aren't I seeing?
With the forks extended, the valve seated the spring should be way down in the tube. The spacer then goes on top of the spring.
Did you push the valve down through the oil?
Did you set the oil level?
What was the measurement from the spring to top of fork tube?
What spacer length did you come up with?
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on April 02, 2012, 09:13:54 PM
With the forks extended, the valve seated the spring should be way down in the tube. The spacer then goes on top of the spring.
Did you push the valve down through the oil? Yes
Did you set the oil level?I just added enought to where it covers the top of the valve when you put it back in.
What was the measurement from the spring to top of fork tube? I didn't take a measurement as it appears that I have another issue.
What spacer length did you come up with? I haven't gotten that far yet.
It appears that the damper rod is preventing the valve from going down far enough. I have no idea what the PO did with/to these forks as it seems he built some kind of "Franken-bike". It's supposed to be an '87 but I know it has a later model gas tank and I don't see where an anti-dive would have been mounted, so I'm guessing these might be later model forks.
Randy - RPM
I'll be at the shop tomorrow and we can try and figure it out over the phone.
Randy - RPM
Great, thanks.
Kurt
Quote from: bugboy on April 02, 2012, 08:27:35 PM
I've got the lower cut-off portion of the damper rod through the "D" shaped hole. Filled with oil. Put in RPM valve. Put in Race Tech spring. Topped all of that with a washer and the fork cap and this is what I get.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/2078_02_04_12_7_19_18_2.jpeg)
This pic was taken with the forks extended (front tire off the ground).
Ain't no way that cap is going to screw on. What step did I miss or what aren't I seeing?
If you put the cut-off portion of the d-shaped rod IN the fork (reads like you did).... PULL IT OUT!! That part gets thrown away.... It does NOT go in the fork.
Quote from: RichBaker on April 02, 2012, 09:56:41 PM
Quote from: bugboy on April 02, 2012, 08:27:35 PM
I've got the lower cut-off portion of the damper rod through the "D" shaped hole. Filled with oil. Put in RPM valve. Put in Race Tech spring. Topped all of that with a washer and the fork cap and this is what I get.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/2078_02_04_12_7_19_18_2.jpeg)
This pic was taken with the forks extended (front tire off the ground).
Ain't no way that cap is going to screw on. What step did I miss or what aren't I seeing?
If you put the cut-off portion of the d-shaped rod IN the fork (reads like you did).... PULL IT OUT!! That part gets thrown away.... It does NOT go in the fork.
That was my original assumption but the way the instructions read - From RPM's instructions for RPM Fork Valve Installation -
The RPM fork valve is made exclusively for RPM for the fitment of the 84-93 Yamaha FJ1100 and FJ1200.
The valve sits on top of your damping rod and inside the fork spring.Easy Installation:
1. If you have the dampening adjustment then you need to adjust it to the center or medium setting. DONE
2. Remove the fork springs and drain the fork oil. Remove any other type of old school vavle that might be in the way. Done
3. Fill with Motul Team Fanctory Line 5wt synthetic oil.
4. Install RPM Fork Valve
5. Set oil level (See below).
6. Install your springs
7. If you have the dampening "D" rod you need to cut it off 2" from the adjusting head.
Like this??? I hope!!
8. Reassemble.
9. Ride and enjoy hitting bumps, dips, pot holes, etc.
Installing the fork oil and Setting the Level
1. Fork spring and RPM for Valve removed.
2. Fork fully compressed.
3. Fill forks with recomended oil: 1/2 liter of Motul 5 wt. Team Factory Sythetic oil.
4. Cycle the fork up and down to remove any trapped air.
5. Install the RPM Fork Valve with the tip up (It fits inside of the fork spring) See fig. A. The damper rod goes in first and then the valve goes on top of that???
Like this?
6.
Push RPM Fork Valve down to damping rod (using the spring for this works best, then remove the spring).7. Measure oil level with -
a. Shock fully compressed
b. RPM Fork Valve covered in oil.
c. The fork springs removed.
8. Add or remove oil as needed; reommended level of the FJ is 6" from the top of the upper fork tube.
9. Install fork spring, washer and spacer if used and install the fork end cap.
Randy is going to help me sort this out tomorrow by phone.
Putting that cut-off section back in didn't make sense to me either,,,, but the instructions sure seem to indicate that the damper rod goes back in under/below the RPM Valve.
Once we get it sorted out, I'll try to get some more pics and do a write up of how it went together and what issues I faced. Rich, if what you are saying is correct (and it seems like it is to me) then I'll talk with Randy to see if the printed instructions can be clarified/further defined.
Thanks to all for their inputs. I have no doubt that Randy "will make it all better".
Yes, throw the cut off portion of the "D" away...I will make that addition to the instructions..
I will still give a call.
Randy - RPM
Mark, we need to talk. Call me in the AM Tuesday, if you can...
Quote from: bugboy on April 02, 2012, 11:03:56 PM
Randy is going to help me sort this out tomorrow by phone.
Putting that cut-off section back in didn't make sense to me either,,,, but the instructions sure seem to indicate that the damper rod goes back in under/below the RPM Valve.
Once we get it sorted out, I'll try to get some more pics and do a write up of how it went together and what issues I faced. Rich, if what you are saying is correct (and it seems like it is to me) then I'll talk with Randy to see if the printed instructions can be clarified/further defined.
Thanks to all for their inputs. I have no doubt that Randy "will make it all better".
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/partviewer/default.aspx?ls=sport#/Yamaha/FJ1200A_-_1990/FRONT_FORK/FJ1200A_(1990_MOTORCYCLE)/FRONT_FORK_(FJ1200A_-_1990) (http://www.yamaha-motor.com/partviewer/default.aspx?ls=sport#/Yamaha/FJ1200A_-_1990/FRONT_FORK/FJ1200A_(1990_MOTORCYCLE)/FRONT_FORK_(FJ1200A_-_1990))
Part #14/41 is the damper rod, the d-shaped rod is a rebound adjustment rod, which extends down into the rebound adjuster in the top of the damper rod.....
Thanks, Rich. I guess I didn't know my nomenclature! I'll try that here after a bit.
I'll still suggest to Randy that the instructions be clarified a little. Not everyone is as smart as "FJOwners.com long time members". Sometimes I embody the "lowest common denominator" for which some instructions need to be written.
I'm looking forward to the change in the front suspension. As I had stated before, the PO set it up for his 300+ lbs. and I'm about 160 lbs. Plus the adjuster on one side wasn't working, the oil (he didn't remember what weight) looked old as hell, and he had progressive springs in it. The front forks were so stiff that the tire would skip over bumps and at times I think it was off the pavement. A little scary when in a corner.
Glad to help, Kurt....