Please list your chain lube and why you choose the product over other options.
Quote from: terryk on April 01, 2012, 09:49:42 PM
Please list your chain lube and why you choose the product over other options.
Really??? Chain lube?? Maybe another oil post or tire thread... I took heat for using Chain Wax, maybe not me but Chain Wax did, PJ-1 has had good reviews, now that you broached the topic others will chime in..... Works well as blinker fluid and Thermalmaxihydroproxy rectal infusion gojo gell. No personal experience, but I am getting older and my doctor seems less and less sane. I am still looking for a second opinion... (http://www.smileyhut.com/surprised/yikes.gif) (http://www.smileyhut.com)
DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant gets good marks....
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm (http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm)
Eric M
I use Bel-ray product ...Blue can -- goes on in a yellow foam -- it is messy if you put to much on but I like seeing the lube on the chain. I am just used to seeing product on the chain even though it is O-ring I still like to see something on the metal.
For trips I use PJ-1-- practically invisible but the can is smaller and seems to work well.
Quote from: moparman70 on April 01, 2012, 10:40:24 PM
I use Bel-ray product ...Blue can -- goes on in a yellow/ foam [coating]
+1
Does not fling, does not collect much dirt.
Slick.
(http://thechive.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/tumblr_m1px2zhoci1qbrjx2o1_400.gif)
Each 1.000 kms I clean my chain with WD40 and a brush, dry the excess with a soft rag, grease with Krafft chain lube (cheap and without teflon) and again clean the excess of grease, with a rag soaked in WD 40
My 6 years old DID ZXVM has just passed the 80.000 kms of hard life mark and I´ve not even have to adjust the slack
If you use a chain lube with teflon, the road grime is trapped for the teflon and actuate like valve grin paste in your chain
I used chain wax for a couple of years on my last bike and would reapply every 500km.I got 30000km out of this set of chain and sprockets which I thought was ''ok''. I think if I had of cleaned the crud off regularly I could have done better still. I''ve recently fitted a scottolier to my daily ride and what I've noticed immediately is that chain is staying a lot cleaner as crud isnt sticking to the chain probably because theres no teflon in the scottoiler lube.
So, from reading all this I can conclude that the ONLY thing that can stick to Teflon is dirt?
Do they know this???
DavidR.
I always wondered how they got it to stick to the pan.
WD40. Or more usually, Howes (http://www.howeslube.com/multipurpose.php), because I like it better than WD40.
Oring chains (or xring or whatever) don't need lubricated as much as simply cleaned and anti-rust-protected. If the chain needs lubrication, that means the orings are gone, and it's going to wear poorly and in short order.
On a non-oring chain, heavy oil or a proper wax (Motul is what I've got on the shelf).
For my streetbikes with oring chains, I have had much, much better luck with simply using WD40-type stuff than any fancyshit wax or chain-specific products. Mostly what's made the difference IMO is the fact that I actually pay some attention to my chains nowadays rather than running in pure neglect mode. I figure if WD40 works for some for 20,000mi, then it can't be all bad; it's cheap, it's easy, you probably have it sitting around, and it means that fancy waxes aren't really a requirement. The difference between going 20k and 60k on a chain is a big one, but a new chain every other or every third year isn't really a problem for me. I also really like the anodized/chromed/plated chains, as they resist rust so much better than the normal ones.
Did someone say Chain Lube (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tri%2Dflow)
I have been using this product on my chains starting back in out go-karting day back in the late 70's throughout the 90's.
I works great and the Teflon component give it a load carrying capability compared to other paraffin based oils, yet is is light enough to penetrate the o-ring and allow internal lubrication.
Heavy/sticky chain lubes do not penetrate and are just for lubricating the chain/sprocket contact surfaces, not the internal links.
Here is my post in the chain lube conversation of 2011; http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3815.msg33290#msg33290 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3815.msg33290#msg33290)
Randy - RPM
Mobil1 75w90 synth gear oil, applied to a warm chain.
Excellent lubricant, clean, non-sticky, any fling off is very easy to clean up.
A quart lasts a long time.
Quote from: andyb on April 02, 2012, 04:41:07 PM
WD40.
I have had much, much better luck with simply using WD40-type stuff than any fancyshit wax or chain-specific products.
As stated earlier I use Bel-ray, but I CLEAN the chain with WD40.
Procedurally, I'll get the chain warm with a 20+ mile ride then immediately clean it with WD and a shop cloth. Then I'll hit it with the Bel-ray.
Sure seems to work well from what I can tell.
Oh, and DO NOT get the bright idea to use the motor to turn the wheel while you clean the chain...
(http://i32.tinypic.com/hv5g1d.jpg)
These are NOT my fingers...
Dan
Quote from: Dan Filetti on April 02, 2012, 08:42:59 PM
These are NOT my fingers...
Dan
Don't make me go there......Clean/lube chain on YOUTUBE......OUCH!!!!!!!!!!
Quote from: Dan Filetti on April 02, 2012, 08:42:59 PM
As stated earlier I use Bel-ray, but I CLEAN the chain with WD40.
Procedurally, I'll get the chain warm with a 20+ mile ride then immediately clean it with WD and a shop cloth. Then I'll hit it with the Bel-ray.
Right there is why I stopped doing it that way. Not the fingers, no :) It turns a 5 minute job into a half hour one, and I'm much less likely to sit down and spend that amount of time on it with any frequency. You're much better off paying attention to the chain more often, even when not doing the "whole" job.
Plus, after a twenty minute ride... it's time to keep riding another few hours, who can say no? :music:
castrol ,sprays on foamy ,best use on a warm chain with the straw instead of exploding out of the can nozzle onto the tyre = lots of extra clean up , ,,last a month or so, or till the. links look dry, very little fling off if used properly , dousnt seem too attract dirt , :good2:
Randy, how do you apply the gear lube?
Quote from: simi_ed on April 03, 2012, 03:02:28 AM
Randy, how do you apply the gear lube?
I just snipped a small opening off the tapered nozzle on the bottle and spin the rear wheel by hand for two runs of the chain. One round I drizzle it on the outside of the chain at the rear sprocket, then another round on the inside on the bottom run. If the chain is warm, it spreads right out.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-V-System-Scottoiler-Chain-Lube-System-/190320204572?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c4ff7db1c (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-V-System-Scottoiler-Chain-Lube-System-/190320204572?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c4ff7db1c)
For those interested in buying a Scottolier hers where I sourced mine from. At a dealer in Melbourne they were asking $220 I got this one for AUD $135 incl postage. Havent worked out the likely pay back yet after taking into account oil refills, what I previously spent on chain lube and the likely longer life from chain and sprockets but just not having to lube my chain every week and clean the crud off is good enough for me.
I made a semi-automatic chain oiler using clippard valve components. The resovoir is an old bicycle chain wax container, and I fill it with 80W90 hypoid gear oil. I have it set for one drip every 3 minutes, works a treat! Cost was about 60.00 Canadian. I flip the toogle to on before the ride, and hope I remember to flip it off after the ride. A 6 inch length of 20 guage wire inserted at the end of the hose just above the chain allows it to bend in just the right spot just above the chain and before the rear sprocket.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/621_03_04_12_4_47_52.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/621_03_04_12_4_50_47.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/621_03_04_12_4_49_29.jpeg)
Kevin
Kevin,
Nice job. I really like those Clippard parts. Can you tell me where I could get the toggle valve?
I've got a similar system on my FJ. which uses a reservior just under the fuel pump and siphons (bar & chain) oil over to the left and along the swingarm before depositing on the chain.
Are you able to access the toggle valve with the seat and sidecover in place?
Arnie
Hey Arnie.
Thanks!
Yes, it's easily accessable at any time, even while on the move if need be (especially nice for when I have a brain fart and forget to turn it on). The website is clippard.com in the US, the toggle valve is clippard part # TV-2S, and the flow control valve is MNV-4K. A buddy of mine machined up the nipples, but you can get them from clippard as well. The hose came from clippard too (oil resistant stuff) but for the life of me, I can't remember the type or part number. I'll dig through my parts bin tomorrow, and get the part number for you if you need it.
Kevin
Nice oiler, Kevin. Simple, not too much money. I like it!
Pretty impressive set up you have there Kevin. I havent priced the ''scottolier refills'' as yet but I'm guessing they'll be expensive. I'll try gear oil when its time to top up.
Quote from: DB Cooper on April 03, 2012, 06:14:52 PM
I made a semi-automatic chain oiler using clippard valve components. The resovoir is an old bicycle chain wax container, and I fill it with 80W90 hypoid gear oil. I have it set for one drip every 3 minutes, works a treat! Cost was about 60.00 Canadian. I flip the toogle to on before the ride, and hope I remember to flip it off after the ride. A 6 inch length of 20 guage wire inserted at the end of the hose just above the chain allows it to bend in just the right spot just above the chain and before the rear sprocket.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/621_03_04_12_4_47_52.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/621_03_04_12_4_50_47.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/621_03_04_12_4_49_29.jpeg)
Kevin
Very nice Kevin this was also going to be my responce as well but my switch was a common old garden tap diverter but they had to be replace every 6mths or so when they started to screw up, but a much better way the using chain lube
baldy
Randy, get on with it, you have another project to add to your list. An RPM chain oiler....
On the Clippard website they have solenoid operated valves that will turn the flow on/off automatically if you hook them to a switched lead. Cost was about $50 plus shipping. That's what I'll get soon instead of a manual valve I keep forgetting to turn off.
Part # ES-2S-12
http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_electronic/byo_es_valves.asp (http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_electronic/byo_es_valves.asp)
Arnie
Hey Arnie.
I did see the electric valve, but opted for the manual valve instead. I'm not really sure why. A buddy of mine ordered some stuff from Clippard at the same time as I did, and he got the electric valve instead. It seems to work really well, and it's turn the key on / off and forget about it. He did install a simple back up switch on his so he could turn it off if for some reason the solenoid ever became stuck or whatever, but he's happy with the setup.
Thanks for all the kudos!
Kevin.
Quote from: Arnie on April 08, 2012, 09:20:58 PM
On the Clippard website they have solenoid operated valves that will turn the flow on/off automatically if you hook them to a switched lead. Cost was about $50 plus shipping. That's what I'll get soon instead of a manual valve I keep forgetting to turn off.
Part # ES-2S-12
http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_electronic/byo_es_valves.asp (http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_electronic/byo_es_valves.asp)
Arnie
How do the lines hook up to that type of valve?
Looking at the pic available on Clippard's site, you have a choice of 4/40 threaded connectors, or 1/16" barbs, or 1/8" barbs.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/99_18_04_12_8_18_24.jpeg)
Arnie
Quote from: Arnie on April 18, 2012, 09:22:57 PM
Looking at the pic available on Clippard's site, you have a choice of 4/40 threaded connectors, or 1/16" barbs, or 1/8" barbs.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/99_18_04_12_8_18_24.jpeg)
Arnie
Thanks, I thought the 4/40 thread was the mounting points.
Quote from: Dads_FJ on April 18, 2012, 10:14:08 PM
Quote from: Arnie on April 18, 2012, 09:22:57 PM
Looking at the pic available on Clippard's site, you have a choice of 4/40 threaded connectors, or 1/16" barbs, or 1/8" barbs.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/99_18_04_12_8_18_24.jpeg)
Arnie
Thanks, I thought the 4/40 thread was the mounting points.
Um...I think they are still mounting points, from looking at the diagram. Just being the Geek/Engineering type looking at diagrams... I hope you like barb fittings.... just saying....
Barb fittings would be fine, this would be a low pressure application. However, it seems this valve is suppose to attach to a manifold or used with something else - I don't believe one can use this valve by itself. Where are the barbed fittings, are they the items labled 'outlet' and 'inlet'?