What type of black should I use on the engine -- I think gloss black --the other choice might be semi-gloss black?
Not sure what they used originally, but I would suggest going with the full gloss, ass any dirt will clean off easier.
The semi, and flat blacks provide more surface area for dirt and dust to cling too, making it look dirtier than it really is.
Whatever you go with, just get the engine as clean as possible so the new paint will stay stuck.
I suggest a scotch brite pad and laquer thinner.
Do not used brake cleaner, as that leaves a residue.
I would even used320 grit sand paper where the ares permit.
Leon
Quote from: moparman70 on January 29, 2012, 03:03:16 PM
What type of black should I use on the engine -- I think gloss black --the other choice might be semi-gloss black?
I used gloss on 2 motors and it looks great. It dulls off slightly to just the right sheen level and it is MUCH easier to keep clean. I did however make two mistakes. The engine enamel remains tacky until cured, this means handling with care once painted. Curing requires 1-2 hours at operating temperature. The first mistake I made was my initial post paint ride was 600 km's in the rain, the front looked like crap. The second mistake, just recently, was leaving it sit for too long before riding and dust settle into the the paint. My original paint job is 20K's old and still looks fantastic. I rode it around for a while with one side all black and the other with the fins sanded back as per original. I opted for the all black fins. The alloy covers were revived using wet and dry paper, 600 then 1200 grit, then paint products (cutting compound/cleaner/polish)on a buff then clear coat. They look great. The difference between a good and a crappy paintjob is to spend the time carefully masking up EVERYTHING that shouldn't be painted.
Noel
Quote from: 1tinindian on January 29, 2012, 03:47:13 PM
ass any dirt will clean off easier.
How the hell did you get 'ass dirt' of your engine? Wait, I'm just not sure I want to know.
Dan
:)
Strong tail wind, freeballin with cargo shorts and a really scary corner,,,,,, that would put ass dirt all over the place
oh brother...one little type-o
you're welcome.
Quote from: bugboy on January 29, 2012, 08:04:16 PM
Strong tail wind, freeballin with cargo shorts and a really scary corner,,,,,, that would put ass dirt all over the place
OMG! I did not need that picture in my head. Thanks... :diablo:
How about a nice Fuchsia?
(http://www.colorcombos.com/images/colors/AA0078.png)
It should make the rest of the bike just pop. :yes:
Quote from: FeralRdr on January 29, 2012, 09:06:25 PM
How about a nice Fuchsia?
(http://www.colorcombos.com/images/colors/AA0078.png)
It should make the rest of the bike just pop. :yes:
No thanks, I have been known to entertain a rear wheel in the Periwinkle shade for short periods of time. However, it is not conducive to getting dates and attracting females unless they are color blind. :sarcastic:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7006/6786463649_1475f2f02c_z.jpg)
Quote from: moparman70 on January 29, 2012, 03:03:16 PM
What type of black should I use on the engine -- I think gloss black --the other choice might be semi-gloss black?
This motor looked similar to yours not long back. I cleaned it up with a slightly acidic wash and high pressure cleaner, wet rubbed the flaking paint edges smooth, removed the centre of the clutch cover so I could really attack it (as previously described) masked everything up and painted. The shine on the clutch cover centre was by choice and could probably be more mirror like if you wanted. Also, I bought the bike in bits and the tub with all the "bits" had at some stage had a few inches of water in it, some even rusted together. Getting the motor looking good really isn't much work and the results very rewarding.
Noel
I was thinking the gloss would be better to clean so gloss it is. I won't be able to start the motor for curing but if necessary I will just use a heat gun as I don't want it too tacky when I go to put it back in
thanks to all for input ---- If I were to go with the Fushia the only Pop would be from the explosive charge I would have ignite to blow the whole thing up.
Noel -- awesome job -- I hope I get mine looking as good. I plan on re-using the covers off of my original 86 that are not in too bad of shape but maybe I will play around with the ones off of the donor more to see how good I can get them.
sstevvccc
Quote from: moparman70 on January 29, 2012, 09:38:02 PM
thanks to all for input ---- If I were to go with the Fushia the only Pop would be from the explosive charge I would have ignite to blow the whole thing up.
sstevvccc
Awwww, come on Steve!!! You would be the only guy with an FJ to have a Fushia colored motor. Rare as hens teeth I tell ya. I will even help you repaint your wheels to periwinkle. And your gonna need some new ass-less Leathers to color coordinate with your new color scheme. :rofl2: :rofl2: :rofl2:
VHT makes "Flame Proof" motorcycle case (SP903) satin black and cylinder head (SP906) satin black enamel. I've used both and they are very durable if you follow the curing procedure VHT recommends. VHT also makes a high temp clear coat, I tried it but wasn't happy with the results. It wouldn't cure and stayed tacky.
As someone said earlier, prep is critical. I cleaned my parts with (Dawn) soapy water and scotchbrite, feathering all paint chips, then I wiped it down with denatured alcohol and masked everything that I didn't want paint on.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7149/6788430869_6d498f74d8.jpg)
Quote from: moparman70 on January 29, 2012, 03:03:16 PM
What type of black should I use on the engine -- I think gloss black --the other choice might be semi-gloss black?
This is my engine paint job at 20,000k's. It sees lots of rain and lots of dirt roads and mud. When I wash the motor I use a paint brush to reach right into the cylinders and nooks and crannies and so as to not scratch the paint. While prep is without a doubt the most important (and longest/hardest) part of any paint job, don't over think it. Consider what will actually be seen and in what light and prepare accordingly. While the engine paint was a cheap brand and has lasted magnificently I spent a small fortune on exhaust paints and have finally given up.
Noel
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6786473925_2643b68123.jpg)
This is my answer to exhaust paint that won't last the distance.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on January 30, 2012, 04:52:01 AM
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6786473925_2643b68123.jpg)
This is my answer to exhaust paint that won't last the distance.
Noel
That looks good, Noel. What are those gold things mounted on your forks??? :scratch_one-s_head:
I used a lite rubbing with 00 steelwool and it makes it better, but I like the results you got. Looks like I may have to borrow my friends bench grinder again.
CraigO
My 89 pipes looked just like those. A little water and a Scotch brite pad and now they look alot better, almost new looking. That's just dirt on them pipes comes right off. Or you can polish them pretty.
Plasic cote #215 is pretty close, for engine paint.
Bob W
Regarding paint, 15 years ago when I had my FJ torn down to fix 2nd gear, I used gloss black lacquer out of a rattle can to paint the entire engine. It drys quickly, has a nice glossy look and 25,000 miles later, it looks as nice as it did when I put it together. Prep is critical if you want it to last.
Dan
i found gloss black caliper paint works great
it is high temp and it "bakes" on.
It can be touched up at any time.
Quote from: craigo on January 30, 2012, 11:45:02 AM
Quote from: ribbert on January 30, 2012, 04:52:01 AM
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6786473925_2643b68123.jpg)
This is my answer to exhaust paint that won't last the distance.
Noel
That looks good, Noel. What are those gold things mounted on your forks??? :scratch_one-s_head:
I used a lite rubbing with 00 steelwool and it makes it better, but I like the results you got. Looks like I may have to borrow my friends bench grinder again.
CraigO
This is my recently acquired "spares" bike and the exhausts, like the rest of the bike, hadn't been cleaned for 20 years. On my other bike I still have the problem of the paint not lasting on the top bend and I must have painted them 3 or 4 times. With good prep and best paint it lasts about 10,000k's and being matt/satin finish, is always difficult to clean, particularly with lower fairing on. so I'll try shiny.
I'd think that powder coating the exhaust would be better than paint. One can do that at home with equipment and supplies from Eastwood.
Quote from: ribbert on January 30, 2012, 04:52:01 AM
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6786473925_2643b68123.jpg)
This is my answer to exhaust paint that won't last the distance.
Noel
I had mine ceramic coated flat black and it looks great