Looking at past posts etc, I've found that '87 or '88 FZR 3.5" front wheel will fit the my '89 FJ. I want to make certain before purchasing anything;
Can the '87 or '88 FZR wheel come off a FZR 600 or a FZR 1000? Are they are the same wheel and either wheel will fit?
Thanks
Mark
The 1000 is the only wheel I know that is a direct fit.I put a 89 FZR 1000 wheel on mine but it isnt a direct fit like the 87 or 88. Good luck with the mod
The 89-99 FZR600 wheel isn't 3.5" width, but a 3.0x17. Stock tire size was 110/70-17 on it.
Don't see a pre-89 model for the FZR600, it replaced the FZ600 that ran 86-88.
Thanks guys. I think I've got it now. Andy, I thought you'd misunderstood the question until I finally started paying attention and realized the difference between FZ and FZR models, years of manufature etc. Went to Wikipedia for a quick Yamaha history lesson and I think I get it now.
'87 or '88 FZR 1000 front wheel is what I'm looking for.
Quote from: markmartin on January 16, 2012, 09:04:37 AM
Thanks guys. I think I've got it now. Andy, I thought you'd misunderstood the question until I finally started paying attention and realized the difference between FZ and FZR models, years of manufature etc. Went to Wikipedia for a quick Yamaha history lesson and I think I get it now.
'87 or '88 FZR 1000 front wheel is what I'm looking for.
I have a spare wheel from an 88/89 FZR1000. It is not in great shape but it may work for you. It has some gouges that could be filled in with metal filler that can be powder-coated if you want. I have not checked for straightness yet. Guess I better do that if I offer it to the club. Let me know if you are considering it. I will take some pictures for you.
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 16, 2012, 07:06:30 PM
I have a spare wheel from an 88/89 FZR1000. << snip >> Let me know if you are considering it. I will take some pictures for you.
Thanks for the offer. I'm knee deep in FJ projects and $$ right now so don't wait for me. If anyone wants it, go for it. I'm looking to the future for a possible wheel upgrade and just getting my facts straight.
That said, I would entertain a picture of yours. I'm starting to look now for what condition these used wheels are available. Saw this one today.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Wheel-1988-88-Yamaha-FZR1000-FZR-1000-/260927556950?hash=item3cc07e8d56&item=260927556950&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Wheel-1988-88-Yamaha-FZR1000-FZR-1000-/260927556950?hash=item3cc07e8d56&item=260927556950&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr)
Aside from the horrid color, I'm not sure if the nicks and dings and rust are going to be typical to what I'm going to find. ?? I'm assuming that I would change the bearings regardless so that wouldn't be a factor.
You say you've got an 88/89. From what I understand so far (not a lot) it's the 87 & 88 FZR wheel that is the right one, and the 89 has a different axle diameter. Yes?
87-88 fzr1000 , the 89 is wrong .
so monkey needs to check the size of his hole. ( the wheel ) :rofl2:
Quote from: Mark Olson on January 17, 2012, 12:08:14 PM
87-88 fzr1000 , the 89 is wrong .
so monkey needs to check the size of his hole. ( the wheel ) :rofl2:
That reminds me of a joke about a monkey in a bar and Que-ball.... :shok: But i digress, my hole...er in the wheel is 15MM so it is the 87/88 wheel. I will try to get some pictures up so the club can window shop.
I used a 1992 FZR front wheel om 1988 FZR front forks
I believe that is 3.5"
Quote from: ccsct203 on January 19, 2012, 07:00:37 AM
I used a 1992 FZR front wheel om 1988 FZR front forks
I believe that is 3.5"
Well, of course
that would fit... it's when fitting the FZR wheel to stock FJ forks that axle size becomes an issue.
The '87-'88 are the only ones that bolt right up. Been there, tried that. Damned eBay! :dash2:
The other FZR wheels have a bigger axle. Wheel bearings with the FZR o/d and FJ i/d are apparently not available. Using bushings with the FJ axle is not a good idea.
AFAIK, all the FZR1000 front wheels were 3.5" wide.
Is there any reason why you couln't use the 17 mm fzr wheel and speedo drive and just knock out a custom axle that would accomodate the FJ forks and the FZ wheel. Perhaps I'm missing something but it would seem like a pretty easy job on the lathe.
Hein.
Quote from: hein on January 19, 2012, 12:16:47 PM
Is there any reason why you couln't use the 17 mm fzr wheel and speedo drive and just knock out a custom axle that would accomodate the FJ forks and the FZ wheel. Perhaps I'm missing something but it would seem like a pretty easy job on the lathe.
Hein.
You're not, as far as I can tell.
If one
has a lathe... but a lot of guys just want a bolt on solution, and either lack the tools or ability to make up parts.
If only I hadn't left my lathe in my other pants. That, and loaning my spare lathe to the neighbor, I knew he wouldn't return it.
Damn......
Reminds me of the old Steve Martin routine about how "you can be a millionaire and NOT pay taxes!"
DavidR.
I did leave out one detail, the r/s slider axle hole must be machined to 17mm. Again this is a quick and easy machining job.
OK so you don't own a lathe or milling machine. You have two options, take it to a machine shop, both the axle and the boring of the r/s slider are easy and won't cost an arm and a leg. Better yet enrol in a intro level machining evening course at a local community college. For a small tuition fee, which is probably tax deductible, you not only learn how to machine but can also allow you to make projects. A few years ago I had a project that was too big for my lathe. After pricing the job out it was considerably cheaper to just take an evening course and use the college equipment. A friend of mine has been attending machining courses on sat. mornings for about 15yrs. He considers it to be his private machine shop and has built many projects for himself.
As far as reducer bushings in the bearings being unsafe I disagree. Make them with an outside flange that buts up against the inner bearing race to prevent them from "walking" inboard and using a light interference fit into the bearing they are perfectly safe. The load is spread over 360 degrees and they can't go anywhere. You will have to shorten the rs/ spacer the same amount as the flange thicknes and spotface the inside bearing contact area of the speedo drive by the same amount. I'm not a machinist by trade so any input from a machinist would be most useful. I used this method back in 95 while converting a fxrs with a fj1200 front end controls and wheels etc. The back wheel used this bushing setup and 17 yrs. later it still works fine for the current owner.
Hein.
Sorry. The thought that my life depended on a axle bushing, 1mm thick, supporting the loads incurred by the front wheel, on a fully loaded 800+lb motorcycle heeled over in a 80mph sweeper...gives me the shivers.
Oh what the hell...It's only the front wheel.... :crazy:
You're not supporting the load with a 1mm. bushing. Youve simply added 1mm. to the thickness of the inner bearing race. I used 8740 series chrome moly for these pieces and with an interference fit they essentially are now part of the bearing race. Using your reasoning the use of an AN washer under the head of a capscrew in a high torque application should cause failure.
Hein.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 19, 2012, 04:13:19 PM
Sorry. The thought that my life depended on a axle bushing, 1mm thick, supporting the loads incurred by the front wheel, on a fully loaded 800+lb motorcycle heeled over in a 80mph sweeper...gives me the shivers.
Oh what the hell...It's only the front wheel.... :crazy:
I agree with Pat. No way
I would consider that.
But hey, it's okay on
your bike... just let me know before we ride together, okay?
I'm not suggesting you make the bushing out of balsam wood because it will compress and fail. What I don't understand is what part of the described bushing will fail. Its already pressed into the race so it can't move in that direction. The flange,center spacer, ls/ spacer and speedo drive prevent any lateral movement. If you think that the bushing will fail due to compression loading from the axle rest assured that the axle will deform before the bushing will. Do a rockwell test on the axle and the bushing and you'l find the axle is much softer and weaker than the bushing.
If thinwall bushings still scare you I'd strongly suggest you avoid flying or driving a car. Hein
Quote from: hein on January 19, 2012, 04:29:04 PM
You're not supporting the load with a 1mm. bushing. Youve simply added 1mm. to the thickness of the inner bearing race.
Bzzzzzt. Wrong answer. Follow the load path.
I've followed the load path and the most vulnerable part is not the bushing its the actual balls in the bearing. At any point in the rotation of the wheel the bushing carries the compression load but since the inner race , spacers and axle are not turning there is no axial load. The surface of the bushing is much greater then the surface of the balls contacting the inner and outer race at any given point of rotation and compression loading.
I doubt that I can convince you of this but I enjoy trying.
Hein
Ok, let me ask you this... Is it safe to say that you are introducing another "potential" failure point in the load path?
Yes or No.
If your answer is no then we just disagree.
If your answer is yes, then I gotta ask a follow up question: Why? All this for a 1/2 inch wider front rim?
1) Why not just do the job right and get a '87/88 FZR rim made for the 15mm axle or...
2) Get a front end designed for the 17mm axle and convert.
If you can convince yourself that there is enough redundant cast aluminum material in you lower fork legs, hog out the holes and re-tap for a 17mm axle.
Motorcycling is dangerous enough without us introducing more "potential" points of failure.
Quote from: rktmanfj on January 19, 2012, 08:55:44 AM
Quote from: ccsct203 on January 19, 2012, 07:00:37 AM
I used a 1992 FZR front wheel om 1988 FZR front forks
I believe that is 3.5"
Well, of course that would fit... it's when fitting the FZR wheel to stock FJ forks that axle size becomes an issue.
The '87-'88 are the only ones that bolt right up. Been there, tried that. Damned eBay! :dash2:
The other FZR wheels have a bigger axle. Wheel bearings with the FZR o/d and FJ i/d are apparently not available. Using bushings with the FJ axle is not a good idea.
AFAIK, all the FZR1000 front wheels were 3.5" wide.
no... the bearing ARE available
The FZR forks I used are the same basically as the newer FJ1200
I was told I could not do what I did because of the axle size for the two were not compatible and the bearings with the OD and ID i needed were not made.
i found them and the Non-compatible 1988 fork and the 1991 wheel are proudly on my bike for nearly 2 years now
here is my info from my old post
Ok... I'm updating my FJ1100's front end to a 1988 FZR1000 and what do I do.. Stupid me buys a 1991 front rim.
The problem as many of you know is the bearing size... 15mm x 40mm x 13mm and guess what they don't make any bearings that size. I did much research and I found a "deep groove track roller bearing" which is sealed both sides and is good up to 70,000 rpm. load and impact rating is very high because of the high side impact on track bearings. The size however is 15x40x11mm. 2mm per bearing narrower then oem.
I figured I'll try them.
I'm doing a new front wheel and I bought all new collars, seals and center spacer and as stated bearings too.
I have a 18" rear rim with the modifications to the carrier bearing spacer, construction of the center spacer and modified brake caliper bracket as I found online.
Might help to post the bearing number.
Or are you saying you used '88 FZR forks and a '92 FJ front wheel?
Sounds like you may have done something different than what's under discussion here.
DavidR.
LR202NPP Track Roller Bearing 15x40x11 Sealed Track Bearings
Part Number: Kit8379
Our Low Price: $4.9
Quantity:
LR202NPP Single Row ball bearing
One Bearing
LR202NPP Track Roller Single Row Bearing, bearing is a Sealed
Item: LR202NPP Bearing
Type: Track Roller Single Row Bearing
Size: 15mmx 40mmx 11mm
Inner Diameter: 15mm
Outer Diameter: 40mm
Width : 11mm
Quantity: One bearing
Load rating Cw: 6,500 N
Load rating Cow: 3,300 N
Dimensions (mm)
d D B C Rs
15 40 11 11 0.6
Good on ya, if you found one that will work!
I searched at two bearing supply houses a few years ago and we found nothing that would do the job.
I think I'd rather use a 15 x 42 x 13 bearing and take a 1mm bore cut out of the bearing housing in the wheel than have to use a narrower bearing and either a 4mm longer inner spacer or 2 2mm longer outer spacers.?
Harvy
Pat, I'm not suggesting another potential failure point, so we disagree. I'm just responding to a point concerning the possible use of the 17mm. FZR wheel. If I was to do it I would make an axle that would use the stock threads on the left slider and would bore the right side slider axle hole to 17mm. As you noted its only 1mm. bigger in the radius so I fail to see any safety concerns on this point. My FZ1 has much less material around the right side of the axle support area.
The other option I suggested seems to have caused the most controversy. I'm not trying to be a controversial dickhead or a know it all but I'm simply trying to grasp what the saftey issue is. For the life of me I can't see how a captive bushing of material that is both stronger and more resiliant than the axle and which is pressed into a bearing race with 100% contact and being unable to go anywhere causes a safety issue. The surface area of the bushing when subjected to a point load is greater than the surface area of the balls in the bearing when subjected to the same load. I've been in the mechanical and metal fabrication trades for 45yrs. and I have observed the same application in many uses, not just in repairs but also in original design.
I'm never too old to learn so I'm more than happy to listen. Please explain what can happen using this method that
causes you to fear failure. Hein
Somewhat related to this discussion.
I worked on a guy's FJ that had a YZF 17 inch rear wheel upgrade. There was a noise in the rear that we couldn't isolate. I think it was some kind of clunk, but don't reall recall now.
When I removed the rear wheel, one of the bearings fell right out. Somehow the bearing had wallowed out it's bore and was not longer a pressed fit.
So, a few questions:
1. How did this happen? Possibly cocked on installation and too much force used that slightly increased the diameter and lost the interference?
2. Wear and or stress caused the bearing to open up the interference diameter slightly? Would this have continued to degrade and caused even more slop eventually?
3. How do you fix something like this short of getting a new wheel? Using something like the bearing "collar" that's being dicussed?
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on January 20, 2012, 09:51:45 AM
Somewhat related to this discussion.
I worked on a guy's FJ that had a YZF 17 inch rear wheel upgrade. There was a noise in the rear that we couldn't isolate. I think it was some kind of clunk, but don't reall recall now.
When I removed the rear wheel, one of the bearings fell right out. Somehow the bearing had wallowed out it's bore and was not longer a pressed fit.
So, a few questions:
1. How did this happen? Possibly cocked on installation and too much force used that slightly increased the diameter and lost the interference?
2. Wear and or stress caused the bearing to open up the interference diameter slightly? Would this have continued to degrade and caused even more slop eventually?
3. How do you fix something like this short of getting a new wheel? Using something like the bearing "collar" that's being dicussed?
DavidR.
In theory, if indeed the diameter had increased, I would consider having a welder lay a bead or two around the surface, then have the inner surface machined to the proper diameter (I don't have a lathe :biggrin: ). In practice, it'd probably be a lot cheaper to find another wheel... they're relatively cheap.
As to Hein's discussion, I would be concerned that at some point, the bushing would lose its interference fit to the bearing inner race, and spin. Such may be completely harmless, or it may end up seizing to the axle or eventually overheating the bearing. Being a front wheel, I'd rather not find out. I think we all agree the the FJ loads the front end a
lot more than the average sportbike.
JMO
I'm not sure at this point how much credibility my ideas have based on the response I've received concerning my previous ideas but bare with me and perhaps I can toss out some ideas in regards to the DavidR. question and to address JMO's concern regarding the "bushing" spinning.
As to the potential of the bushing spinning consider the fact that once the axle is installed and torqued down the only thing that should spin would be the wheel, the outer race of the bearing which is a press fit in the bore of the wheel,the actual balls in the bearing and the bearing seperation cage of the bearing. The axle can't spin and this is the component that locks the r/s spacer to the inner race of the bearing and to the center spacer then to the l/s bearing and then to the inner part of the speedo drive. So as your bike rolls down the road none of the components locked to the axle are turning. A bushing pressed into the inner race is also static so I fail to see how it could possibly spin or brake loose. Grab a ball bearing with your thumb and index finger by the inner race and spin the outer race. This is your wheel in motion.
The feasability of repairing a damaged bearing bore in the wheel is a question of economics. Repair costs versus replacement. If replacement wheels are cheap that would be the route to take. If replacement wheels are expensive or hard to find it can be repaired. Both welding the bore or sleeving the bore will work but either way machining of the wheel will be required. The choises for machining require either a lathe that can swing a 17" wheel or a milling machine with an indexable boring head. The hardest part of the job would be indexing or "clocking" the wheel to pick up the bore centreline, without seeing the wheel and the damage I can't say how easy this would be. Using the undamged other side as a reference might be possible or if the OD of the damaged bore is not damaged this could be used. If you elect to build up the damaged area by welding any refence points will warp and be useless for the purpose of maching. Machining and sleeving can work provided there is enough meat to work with.
Hopefully this makes sense to both questions but I would certainly get another informed opinion before attempting a repair.
Hein.
Hein,
I'm going to weigh in on the discussion. I am not an engineer, I try not to play one on the Internet. I was a machinist for 14 years, started out with 2 years of vocational training before that. I have earned my FAA Airframe & Powerplant license, worked for a FAA repair facility for 7 years.. I know exactly what you mean by being afraid of flying if you don't trust thinwall bushings. I have made & installed literally thousands of bushings to repair worn bores on aircraft parts of all types. As you also know, every one of those repairs has to be proven to the satisfaction of the FAA to be an airworthy method of repairing those parts. I was involved with the approval process of several part repairs submitted to the FAA by the repair facility that I was employed by. Those repair procedures underwent an evaluation by an engineering review board to determine if the part will be airworthy after being repaired. I guess that is my rambling attempt to make the case that your idea of bushing the inner race of the front wheel bearing of a FZR 1000 wheel with the 17 mm ID is not so far fetched. You have not made the fork assembly of an FJ 1200 any weaker than before. It still has a 15 mm axle. I have never heard of anyone pulling the wheel bearings out of a front wheel and finding a damaged center spacer. I agree with your point that the bushing is no more likely to spin than the axle, if theaxle remains tight. Just my 2 cents, worth about that much.
Gentlemen,
When I did the front wheel conversion to the 3.5" rim, I simply had the bearing mating surface (within the rim)machined to accept the stock bearings. It is relatively quick and inexpensive ($100.00) modification that allows the use of the stock fork sliders, axle and speedometer drive. It is a basic procedure that any competent machine shop can perform. I purchased the bearings at our local bearing supply house.
Hope that helps.
Mike Ramos.
Morning Joe. Thanks for validating my point. I served in the Canadian air force back in the 60's and as you stated thinwall bushings were a commen solution to aircraft service problems.
Mike, you offered a good solution to the wheel issue. I've used this method myself in repairing a vintage wheel, and as you stated, its cheap and easy.
Problems are resolved through solution not fearmongering. Hein.
Quote from: hein on January 21, 2012, 01:40:10 PM
Problems are resolved through solution not fearmongering. Hein.
Well, that's rich. I guess that was directed at me.
This is a first time (I recall) that my concerns have been labeled as a fear-mongering.
Oh well...So far I'm batting .500. At least I've gotten Hein to acknowledge that his 1mm thick bushings are in the load path.
That's a start.
However, getting Hein to admit that there is a potential for cracking failure of the 1mm thick bushings is where we part company.
If or when this happens, if ever, it will become intuitive to suggest that there are better solutions than cardboard thin axle bushings.
Quote from: Mike Ramos on January 20, 2012, 11:44:03 PM
I simply had the bearing mating surface (within the rim)machined to accept the stock bearings. It is relatively quick and inexpensive ($100.00) modification that allows the use of the stock fork sliders, axle and speedometer drive.
[edit] Mike, I don't understand your solution.
I thought we are talking about fitting a '89+ FZR rim which uses a 42mm OD bearing (42x17x13).
The stock bearing for the 15mm axle is 40mm OD. (40x15x13)
So..... How do you machine an existing 42mm hole in the rim to fit a 40mm bearing?
Hello Pat,
The rim I used was fitted with a bearing that had a smaller outside diameter bearing than the stock rim. It is a 3.5" X 17" from a Yamaha and looks very much like a stock rim. It has been over two years and I apologize that I do not recall the exact year of the bike that it came from. Over 75,000 miles later it is still doing well. I am not out to dissuade or convince anyone, I am just relating my own experience.
Mike.
Pat, relax. My comment was not directed at you personally. I believe that Joe, who has a pretty good background on the topic, supports my contention that there is nothing wrong with thinwall bushings as they are commonly used in the aviation industry. For a bushing to crack it would have to have room to expand in terms of the OD. Since its pressed into a bearing race the inner race would have to change dimensionally first to allow room for expansion. If the idea of a split bushing scares you please consider that the bushings on most fork assemblies are in fact split bushings. If that doesn't scare you consider that they are made of a soft material and are not a press fit but are floating bushings. Yes they will wear out due to the fact they are constantly moving up and down in the fork stanchion but catastrophic failure
Sorry but I hit a wrong button
Anyways failure under these conditions is rare. I'm quite sure that I will never be able to convince you that thinwall bushings are safe regardless of the fact that they are used in many industrial and aviation applications. Shimstock of a much thinner dimension is also used in many applications under a compression load. I can't think of any shimstock failure or splitting when I, and many others, use it in setup applications on machining jobs.
I appreciate your concern for safety but you have still not explained what would cause failure. Yes the bushing is in the load path but it is only subjected to a compression load. Its supported on the id. by the axle and by the bearing race on the od., nothing can move and there is no room to escape. Please enlighten me.
I'm not trying to be confrontational and I would prefer to keep this on a friendly level and I'm also willing to learn something from this.
Hein.
Quote from: hein on January 21, 2012, 06:48:25 PM
I'm also willing to learn something from this.
Hein.
you guys need to chill IMHO... seconds? :negative:
Space truckin... :dance:
Frank
BTW - skiing in Truckee today was excellent...
Quote from: hein on January 21, 2012, 06:48:25 PM
I appreciate your concern for safety but you have still not explained what would cause failure. Yes the bushing is in the load path but it is only subjected to a compression load. Its supported on the id. by the axle and by the bearing race on the od., nothing can move and there is no room to escape. Please enlighten me.
No worries Hein, it's all cool. This is a good discussion.
I know that there is an appropriate place for thin walled bushings. My instincts tell me that this application is not the place.
Why?
A couple of reasons off the top of my head;
First off remember, we are working with a very thin 1mm section of material under compressive and sometimes shock loads.
1) Is the 15mm axle perfectly round? No, so the transfer of forces from the bearing thru the bushing to the axle can become concentrated on the inside wall of the bushing. An uneven distribution of forces is not a good thing.
2) Is the surface of the 15mm axle perfectly smooth? No, so very small minute surface imperfections (air pockets) can cause load concentrations leading in time to micro-fractures in the thin walled bushing as the material becomes worked.
3) Does the 15mm axle deflect under load? Yes. How does this deflection affect the bushings? Unknown.
4) Do manufacturers know about this axle deflection? Yes. That is why newer motorcycles have larger diameter axles e.g. FJR=17mm
5) When you machine this thin walled bushing do you do any quality control inspections on the finished product? Not that you've reported. Do you Xray the bushing looking for microfractures? Ultrasound? Dye Penetrant? Any non destructive testing at all?
You FAA certified dudes should know a little about QC, do you really think FAA would certify this application without QC? How about TUV?
Which leads to my final thought:
Is it worth a chance? After all it's only the front wheel.... Are there other solutions out there? Yep.
Chillin out in Palm Desert....
Hi Pat.
Rather than debating each point ,which with my typing skills is painfull, consider this from a tottally different angle. First take a Torrington bearing cut in half, throw out the needle bearings and measure the wall thickness of the outer shell. Its much thinner than 1mm. A bearing of this type when pressed into a housing can sustain some pretty large loads and also act as a bearing surface for the moving rollers at the same time.The actual contact area of the rollers is much less than the surface area of the bearing shell. Typical service failure on these bearings is caused by the needle bearings wearing or the shaft which is supported by the bearing.
If you've misplaced your lathe or the neighbour has it use a hacksaw to cut the bearing.
I need to go home and open a bottle of wine.
Hein.
Quote from: hein on January 21, 2012, 08:17:58 PM
Hi Pat.
Rather than debating each point ,which with my typing skills is painfull, consider this from a tottally different angle. First take a Torrington bearing cut in half, throw out the needle bearings and measure the wall thickness of the outer shell. Its much thinner than 1mm. A bearing of this type when pressed into a housing can sustain some pretty large loads and also act as a bearing surface for the moving rollers at the same time.The actual contact area of the rollers is much less than the surface area of the bearing shell. Typical service failure on these bearings is caused by the needle bearings wearing or the shaft which is supported by the bearing.
If you've misplaced your lathe or the neighbour has it use a hacksaw to cut the bearing.
I need to go home and open a bottle of wine.
Hein.
Don't forget some nice cheese to go with that wine, see you at the 2012 WCFJR right Hein?
so did anybody try the fzr bushing method, or find bearings that could be used in the later fzr wheel to 88 /89 fj forks (popcorn)
I have!, after getting the later wheel by mistake but in very good condition i tried getting a 40x15x13 bearing but no luck, so local bearing shop did me a 40x17x13 and gave me a 1mm bush/shim to fit inside, tight fit but works well front axle fits well and is everything seems tight enough, have only done about 500 miles on it but working well so far.
Once, a long long time ago I was riding an XS750 that I bought new (It was once on the back cover of Cycle!) and one front wheel bearing went away. I was in south central Missouri just outside of Big Spring. The local auto parts store had the correct bearing, and I changed the bearing in the parking lot. If that bearing needed a bushing to make it work, I would have been out of luck. Will a bushing work? Yes it will. Do I want to be 400 miles from my lathe and need a bushing or 2 to be able to ride home? No, not so much.
So: 1. I try to keep some things, like bearings, simple. 2. I no longer loan my motorcycles to roommates who will ride them through semi deep river crossings, and or wash them with a high pressure spray. He didn't tell me about either until after my parking lot repair.
There is a little more to this story, but I will save it for another day.
Quote from: jwh on April 05, 2012, 02:01:22 PM
I have!, after getting the later wheel by mistake but in very good condition i tried getting a 40x15x13 bearing but no luck, so local bearing shop did me a 40x17x13 and gave me a 1mm bush/shim to fit inside, tight fit but works well front axle fits well and is everything seems tight enough, have only done about 500 miles on it but working well so far.
, no worries, thanks mate, just seeing whats out there for when i ever get to do the fzr wheel swap, did the 84 to 89 forks ect years ago , seem the 3.5" is the way to go
Quote from: JCainFJ on April 05, 2012, 06:04:04 PM
Once, a long long time ago I was riding an XS750 that I bought new (It was once on the back cover of Cycle!) and one front wheel bearing went away. I was in south central Missouri just outside of Big Spring. The local auto parts store had the correct bearing, and I changed the bearing in the parking lot. If that bearing needed a bushing to make it work, I would have been out of luck. Will a bushing work? Yes it will. Do I want to be 400 miles from my lathe and need a bushing or 2 to be able to ride home? No, not so much.
So: 1. I try to keep some things, like bearings, simple. 2. I no longer loan my motorcycles to roommates who will ride them through semi deep river crossings, and or wash them with a high pressure spray. He didn't tell me about either until after my parking lot repair.
There is a little more to this story, but I will save it for another day.
all good points mate, definaty something to keep in mind
Dont know how i tag or quote someone but Pat says in this topic that
I thought we are talking about fitting a '89+ FZR rim which uses a 42mm OD bearing (42x17x13).
The stock bearing for the 15mm axle is 40mm OD. (40x15x13)
I have just bought a 92 FZR front to go in my FJ and so have become interested in the options for fitting, for me its allll about the easy route. And i just found this bearing
Bearing Number Boundary dimensions(mm)
TBBS a B C
6302 15 42 13
As you can see it is a 42x15x13.
So my question before i spend like, all of £7 on the bearings is. Are those bearing dimensions stated for the FJ and FZR 100% correct
Also im new on here, how do :drinks:
Quote from: CarterJamie on January 12, 2016, 10:09:03 AM
Dont know how i tag or quote someone but Pat says in this topic that
I thought we are talking about fitting a '89+ FZR rim which uses a 42mm OD bearing (42x17x13).
The stock bearing for the 15mm axle is 40mm OD. (40x15x13)
I have just bought a 92 FZR front to go in my FJ and so have become interested in the options for fitting, for me its allll about the easy route. And i just found this bearing
Bearing Number Boundary dimensions(mm)
TBBS a B C
6302 15 42 13
As you can see it is a 42x15x13.
So my question before i spend like, all of £7 on the bearings is. Are those bearing dimensions stated for the FJ and FZR 100% correct
Also im new on here, how do :drinks:
Hi there. I don't know how relevant this will be some 4 months after your post, but here goes...
Having just read through this thread, I'm with Hein as far as the bushing goes. This is the exact mod I did last year when I had to use an Exup (FZR '89 on for our US friends...) wheel because Genesis (87-88) front wheels are as plentiful as Hens' teeth.
I took the 42x17x13 bearings to a local (precision) engineering company, told them the problem, and they made me up a couple of bushes out of 'Silver Steel'.
I fitted them with the wheel about a year ago now, with no problems in the ~ 10k miles I've covered since. That's on not only British roads, but involved a 3k mile round trip over two weeks to Norway, and a ~ 1500 mile trip over a week to France.
I do check the bearings every couple of months, and they're absolutely fine.
I might add that, fitting the Exup front and Genesis rear wheels, coupled with a pair of Continental Road Attack2 tyres, has totally transformed the handling of the bike. On twisty 'B' roads, it would now be close to matching the handling of my BMW R1100 GS. And I've scraped the footpegs of the GS on more than a few occasions.
Having just read your post again, could you divulge where you got that bearing, and any bearing number on it?
Dave.
Hi all, sorry for the thread revival but I had some questions very closely related, but just ever so slightly tangent. I'm trying to use a set of FJ11 forks to (slightly) upgrade my '80 XS11, trying to turn the old beast into a slightly better handling and stopping version of a muscle bike haha and the FJ forks fit the visual aesthetic I was hoping for without breaking the bank (and I got lucky and the tree stem is even a very easy swap too!) but I want to keep my XS11 wheels, which use a 17mm axle, so I was wondering if these bikes had any weak points at the axle on the fork slider? I was thinking it would likely behoove me to bore out the sliders and machine a 17mm axle, as the larger axle (in my mind) should be more rigid. (I'm a tool and die maker by trade so the work itself won't cost me much, just stay late at work a couple evenings haha) am I wrong or is there any danger in boring out the aluminum?
Yes, you can bore out the FJ lower sliders to fit the 17mm axle, there is plenty of material down there. You are only shaving 1mm off the circumference. While the 3.5" wide front rims off the '87/88 FZR1000/750 use a 15mm axle (same size as the FJ thus straight plug and play) those rims are getting hard to come by, however, the later '89+ FZR rims use the bigger 17mm axle and are more plentiful...so several FJ folks have modified the FJ lowers for the 17mm axle to be able to use the '89+ FZR front rims.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 24, 2024, 04:19:31 PMYes, you can bore out the FJ lower sliders to fit the 17mm axle, there is plenty of material down there. You are only shaving 1mm off the circumference. While the 3.5" wide front rims off the '87/88 FZR1000/750 use a 15mm axle (same size as the FJ thus straight plug and play) those rims are getting hard to come by, however, the later '89+ FZR rims use the bigger 17mm axle and are more plentiful...so several FJ folks have modified the FJ lowers for the 17mm axle to be able to use the '89+ FZR front rims.
The wheel I'm going with is a '80 XS11, it's a 19x2" haha definitely not a meaty front width, but I like em.
:wacko2:
Would be good if you want to use for 1/4 mile runs.