I just checked my valve clearances on my '87 "Orange Abomination" for the first time. With some info here, a Clymers and a Haynes it went OK.
Here is what I came up with:
INTAKE
1A .10mm with a 2.78mm shim- should go to 2.75?
1B .08mm with a 3.10 shim - should go to a 3.05?
2A .08mm with a 2.75 shim - should go to a 2.70?
2B .09mm with a 2.75 shim - should go to a 2.70?
3A .10mm with a 2.78 shim - should go to a 2.75?
3B .08mm with a 2.78 shim - should go to a 2.75?
4A .08mm with a 2.85 shim - should go to a 2.80?
4B .08mm with a 2.78 shim - should go to a 2.75?
EXHAUST
1A .10mm with a 2.75 shim - should go to a 2.65?
1B .04mm with a 2.75 shim - should go to a 2.60?
2A .04mm with a 2.75 shim - should go to a 2.60?
2B .06mm with a 2.75 shim - should go to a 2.60 or 2.65? can I do a 2.60 and be OK (.01mm too much clearance)
3A .12mm with a 2.70 shim - should go to a 2.65?
3B .15mm with a 2.70 shim - should go to a 2.60?
4A .15mm with a 2.75 shim - should go to a 2.70?
4B .05mm with a 2.75 shim - should go to a 2.60?
I just wanted to run this past some folks with experience. If this all looks good, I'll start figuring what I can swap around and what I need to order. Looks like Randy is gonna get some new business.
Yep, looks good to me, I spot checked against the charts shown in Haynes, intake shims on page 1-20 and exhaust shims on page 1-21
Again, I just spot checked. My first time, I made a mistake using one table for both intake and exhaust, which you did not do....Cool
FYI, In the Files Section LA Mike posted a nice work sheet which helps organize my shim notes: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1800.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1800.0)
Kudos laddie!
Thanks Pat. I have several of those valve worksheets printed and they are great.
I think I'll go to a 2.60 on 2B which will give me a .21 on that exhaust valve. That's .01 out of spec but from what I read on here is that the clearances will get smaller over time so it should come into spec fairly quickly. Does that sound reasonable?
That's good overall logic. Set the valves a tad on the loose side, especially the exhaust valves.
I have heard about folks setting their intake valves so that 1 valve opens on time (within spec.) and the other intake valve opens later (loose spec) which, according to the theory, causes within the cylinder a swirl action of the intake charge promoting better fuel/air mixture and cylinder fill.
IIRC This idea came from the Honda guys.