Another handy description of Mikuni carb tuning.........or.......... an adjunct to "OldSlowGuy".
http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm (http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm)
Harvy
Thanks Harvy! This is a good primer and should go in the files section....Pat
...... Very good info. I have had alot of problems, with my 38mm flatslides. I believe this will help.
Brook
What issues are you having with the RS's? I saw your post over on dragbike.com.
What mods have you done on the engine? Nice work on the body work makeover - looks great.
I ran RS 36s for a while on a stock FJ1200 with a Kerker header, K&N pods, and Dyna ignition. Here's the settings I ended up with before I swapped to some larger FCRs:
Main jet 130
Needle 9DZH1 clip in 2nd groove with washer under clip
Needle jet P-4
Pilot Jet 17.5
Pilot screw 1/4 out
Chris
....... Hi Cris,... I am not sure what I have already wrote. on both sites... about the motor, The gears> undercut, stock clutch but with two spring plates, Dyna 2000 ign. Accel wires and coils, [behind carbs]. Wisco piston's>> 1219. V/H header, shaved to match the exhaust port, off set front sprocket. heavy duty head studs APE,..K/N filters, ported and polish head, 10,000's shaved of , degree cam gears and the 38mm F/S......plus....ARE YOU READY??,... I drill the frame and cut off all unneeded metals. no more rear shock bracket, Painted the shock spring, bright red. I bought a couple of wiring harness,[ off of EBay,] just in case. I cut it into, near the fuse box, cut a hole in the frame, next to the support bar on the right front, ran the harness thru the frame and sawter and sealed all the wires back . You can not see the harness, at all. The 2003 R1 nose bolted right to the holes for the bottom FJ fairing, The top nose sat right on top of the frame. The gauges are Trial Tech, The speedometer is connected to the front wheel, with a magnet. With the RPM's and speed, I am using the other four indicator's for neutral, fuel, oil, high beams.... I bought a 2003 FZ1, about a year ago. It had water damage, I used the front forks, brakes and wheels.... with allot of extra nuts and bolts.... lol....Also, I took the radiator fan, and cut it down, from about eight inch to about four and half, I put it in between the hooks, of the bottom of the gas tank [on the frame] It blows right on top of the motor> headers and oil cooler.[ allot of power ] Then I ran the black wire to the right turn signal switch, I do not have or use turn signals... My choice.. So, I have a extra switch. The fan stays on until I push back to the neutral postion. it works great. on the left side, on the cover for the clutch rod, I used a demel, to carve my name [BROOK]. I bought a adjustable lowering links [soupyperformance.com].$85.00 for the linkage 1/2 -5/8 I think, for the 2000 yzf1000 swingarm, on the V/S header, I took off the name plate>>> V/H <<<, clean and paint my name. But, [it looks like the FORD logo] and shorten the canster two inch's . Bought the R6 subframe and tail also, EBay. saved about $100.00, the tail was broken>>> INTO, behind the seat, I used a small piece of sheet metal, JBweld and screws. looks like new. I recovered the seats.... Let's back up a little, The front brake and clutch masters are from Dennis Kirk. I lower the handle bars about four to five inch's.They are below the triple tree. So, on top and front sides of the gas tank, I made two big dents, And have full Lock to lock movement. One of the best things, about all this is, the lose of 60lbs....And the last thing >>No Chicken strip<< ...
Jeff
Jeff,
a lot of great ideas there - especially since it appears you did it "in a vacuume" -- most of the folks here have the advantage of getting ideas from the group, seeing what's been done before, etc. Good to see a fresh way a looking at things sometimes. Best of both worlds -- benefit from the experience and proven results of others while still looking for new ideas and alternative solutions. I think that is the best refairing job I've seen on an FJ. And a lot of weight loss too!
Have you seen the FJracer website? Phenominal amount of weight Phil Hacker has "hacked" off the racer (no street equip helps!)
Where do you have the fan mounted? Sounds like a great idea - especially for the FL, NV, CA, folks. I got hung up in BAD summer traffic a couple of times trying to get onto MacDill AFB. A fan would have been nice.
Chris
...I respect your thoughts, I can say that everything that I have done to the bike is, trial and error. I get a idea, and try to solve it, and that is with just what I have at hand. I do not spend alot of money, on this bike. ...the fan.... it came off of a FZ!, that I buught for parts, It was to big to use the way it was.
Quote from: Brook on December 08, 2009, 10:44:14 PM
....... Hi Cris,... I am not sure what I have already wrote. on both sites... about the motor, The gears> undercut, stock clutch but with two spring plates, Dyna 2000 ign. Accel wires and coils, [behind carbs]. Wisco piston's>> 1219. V/H header, shaved to match the exhaust port, off set front sprocket. heavy duty head studs APE,..K/N filters, ported and polish head, 10,000's shaved of , degree cam gears and the 38mm F/S......plus....ARE YOU READY??,.... no more rear shock bracket, Painted the shock spring, bright red. The R1 nose bolted right to the holes . The gauges are , The speedometer is connected to the front wheel, with a magnet. With the RPM's and speed, I am using the other four indicator's for neutral, fuel, oil, high beams.... I bought a 2003 FZ1, about a year ago. It had water damage, I used the front forks, brakes and wheels.... with allot of extra nuts and bolts.... lol....Also, I took the radiator fan, and cut it down, from about eight inch to about four and half, I put it in between the hooks, of the bottom of the gas tank [on the frame] It blows right on top of the motor> headers and oil cooler.[ allot of power ] Then I ran the black wire to the right turn signal switch, I do not have or use turn signals... My choice.. So, I have a extra switch. The fan stays on until I push back to the neutral postion. it works great. on the left side, on the cover for the clutch rod, I used a demel, to carve my name [BROOK]. I bought a adjustable lowering links [soupyperformance.com].$85.00 for the linkage 1/2 -5/8 I think, for the yzf1000 swingarm, on the V/S header, I took off the name plate>>> V/H <<<, clean and paint my name. But, [it looks like the FORD logo] and shorten the canster two inch's . Bought the subframe and tail also, EBay. saved about $100.00, the tail was broken>>> INTO, behind the seat, I used a small piece of sheet metal, JBweld and screws. looks like new. I recovered the seats.... Let's back up a little, The front brake and clutch masters are from Dennis Kirk. I lower the handle bars about four to five inch's.They are below the triple tree. So, on top and front sides of the gas tank, I made two big dents, And have full Lock to lock movement. One of the best things, about all this is, the lose of 60lbs....And the last thing >>No Chicken stripe<< ...
Jeff
Quote from: Brook on December 08, 2009, 10:44:14 PM
....... Hi Cris,... I am not sure what I have already wrote. on both sites... about the motor, The gears> undercut, stock clutch but with two spring plates, Dyna 2000 ign. Accel wires and coils, [behind carbs]. Wisco piston's>> 1219. V/H header, shaved to match the exhaust port, off set front sprocket. heavy duty head studs APE,..K/N filters, ported and polish head, 10,000's shaved of , degree cam gears and the 38mm F/S......plus....ARE YOU READY??,.... no more rear shock bracket, Painted the shock spring, bright red. . The R1 nose bolted right to the holes , The gauges are Trial Tech, The speedometer is connected to the front wheel, with a magnet. With the RPM's and speed, I am using the other four indicator's for neutral, fuel, oil, high beams.... I bought a 2003 FZ1, about a year ago. It had water damage, I used the front forks, brakes and wheels.... with allot of extra nuts and bolts.... lol....Also, I took the radiator fan, and cut it down, from about eight inch to about four and half, I put it in between the hooks, of the bottom of the gas tank [on the frame] It blows right on top of the motor> headers and oil cooler.[ allot of power ] Then I ran the black wire to the right turn signal switch, I do not have or use turn signals... My choice.. So, I have a extra switch. The fan stays on until I push back to the neutral postion. it works great. on the left side, on the cover for the clutch rod, I used a demel, to carve my name [BROOK]. I bought a adjustable lowering links [soupyperformance.com].$85.00 for the linkage 1/2 -5/8 I think, for the yzf1000 swingarm, on the V/S header, I took off the name plate>>> V/H <<<, clean and paint my name. But, [it looks like the FORD logo] and shorten the canster two inch's . Bought the R6 tail also, EBay. saved about $100.00, the tail was broken>>> INTO, behind the seat, I used a small piece of sheet metal, JBweld and screws. looks like new. I recovered the seats.... Let's back up a little, The front brake and clutch masters are from Dennis Kirk. I lower the handle bars about four to five inch's.They are below the triple tree. So, on top and front sides of the gas tank, I made two big dents, And have full Lock to lock movement. One of the best things, about all this is, the lose of 60lbs....And the last thing >>No Chicken stripe<< ...
Jeff
Quote from: Brook on December 08, 2009, 10:44:14 PM
....... Hi Cris,... I am not sure what I have already wrote. on both sites... about the motor, The gears> undercut, stock clutch but with two spring plates, Dyna 2000 ign. Accel wires and coils, [behind carbs]. Wisco piston's>> 1219. V/H header, shaved to match the exhaust port, off set front sprocket. heavy duty head studs APE,..K/N filters, ported and polish head, 10,000's shaved of , degree cam gears and the 38mm F/S......plus....ARE YOU READY??,..., Painted the shock spring, bright red. R1 nose bolted right to the holes The gauges are Trial Tech, The speedometer is connected to the front wheel, with a magnet. With the RPM's and speed, I am using the other four indicator's for neutral, fuel, oil, high beams.... I bought a 2003 FZ1, about a year ago. It had water damage, I used the front forks, brakes and wheels.... with allot of extra nuts and bolts.... lol....Also, I took the radiator fan, and cut it down, from about eight inch to about four and half, I put it in between the hooks, of the bottom of the gas tank [on the frame] It blows right on top of the motor> headers and oil cooler.[ allot of power ] Then I ran the black wire to the right turn signal switch, I do not have or use turn signals... My choice.. So, I have a extra switch. The fan stays on until I push back to the neutral postion. it works great. on the left side, on the cover for the clutch rod, I used a demel, to carve my name [BROOK]. I bought a adjustable lowering links [soupyperformance.com].$85.00 for the linkage 1/2 -5/8 I think, for the yzf1000 swingarm, on the V/S header, I took off the name plate>>> V/H <<<, clean and paint my name. But, [it looks like the FORD logo] and shorten the canster two inch's . Bought the R6 subframe and tail also, EBay. saved about $100.00, the tail was broken>>> INTO, behind the seat, I used a small piece of sheet metal, JBweld and screws. looks like new. I recovered the seats.... Let's back up a little, The front brake and clutch masters are from Dennis Kirk. I lower the handle bars about four to five inch's.They are below the triple tree. So, on top and front sides of the gas tank, I made two big dents, And have full Lock to lock movement. One of the best things, about all this is, the lose of 60lbs....And the last thing >>No Chicken stripe<< ...
Jeff
Jeff,
seems like my reply may have come across wrong. I'm impressed with the mods you've done -- especially, as you said, it's been done by trial and error - running with an idea and figuring out how to solve it. I think original thought is a great thing. You may not spend much on the bike, but the results look as if you do - that's awesome.
Chris