I went to the hardware shop today(a place I have almost never ever been to :empathy:)
And bought a few goodies today for some work on the FJ. I started off with a torque wrench.
I got some loctite/nutlock for the bolt I skrew I stripped in the filter housing. Its this stuff, will it work?
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h410/FJTILLDEATH/Photo0100.jpg)
I bought some plastic mould stuff to repair the crack in my belly pan and by the headlight fairing.
Then I got some stuff called super gasket. I wanted it to use as a sealant where you would put the valve cover gasket, basically the edge of the cam heads and the engine. It says its designed to act as a gasket itself, so it sounds more like I can make gaskets with it? The guy at the counter says it will do what I need it to do but he doesnt look like he know much about bikes. Its this stuff
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h410/FJTILLDEATH/Photo0101.jpg)
Lastly, I plan to use the loctite tonight as I really dont want anymore oil dripping from the stripped skrew. Does this mean I am going to have to drain the engine again :dash2:?
Jesse,
Which screw did you strip in the filter housing? The little one near the outside bottom? #12 in the parts diagram? If that's the leaking screw, the thread lock might work, but don't tighten it too much.
You'd probably be better off tapping the stripped hole to the next larger size and using a new larger screw. The threadlock will not replace stripped threads, but it might seal the leak.
You won't have to drain the engine, but you'll have a much better chance of it sealing if you lean the bike far enough to the right that there is no oil in the stripped hole and you clean the hole and screw first. I'd use contact or brake cleaner or an alcohol swab to get all traces of oil off. Once you have the threadlocked screw in place do NOT ever again remove it.
Arnie
I wouldn't trust threadlocker under the pressure that the filter sees. Fix it right by overdrilling and re-tapping. And don't feel too bad, "most" of us have stripped that bolt out and know to NEVER touch it again.
DavidR.
I guess I'm not alone. Mine stripped very easily first time I changed oil - I think the PO had the threads pretty well screwed up. I tapped to next larger size and got the proper size socket head scres and it still dripped just a little. Surface ground the washer and dripping stopped. Vowed never to remove again. Foolish me did remove. Now dripping again and I, too, am looking for something to seal it with. Used Honda Bond to seal the sharp corners on the valve cover gasket and thought maybe if I coated the threads with it next oil change would solve the problem. Threads are still good. Comments appreciated.
GT
jessee.....there is no such thing as "fix-it-all-in-a-tube".....tap the filter cover, and put in a oversized bolt WITH A COPPER SEAL WASHER,...threadloc it in there if you want to, but dont ever pull it out again......start planning on a spin-on adapter from randy before you have to service it again... problem solved!!
as far as the valve cover gasket, in a "perfect world" you shouldnt have to apply any kind of sealer, except MAYBEE around the cam-cuts (the half-moon shaped end seals on the gasket) to seal in the sharp corners....if the main part of the v/c gasket wont seal without gooping it up with blobs of sealer, its time for a new one....think of it like this...
all the excess that gets squeezed out that you can see, after assembly,...how much gets squeezed INSIDE the engine!!.....free floating blobs of silicone are somewhat appealing at the beach....especially when they have no tan lines!!! :yahoo:
not so good for motors tho......... :bad:
The comments that have been said before are true tap the hole next size up and fix it right. To pretty much seal the fastener in permanently use Loctite 290 Wicking (Green Medium strength), it is a penetrating loctite and works well for dissimilar metals. Permanent loctite would be 638 plus the activator but that is almost like liquid welding, we use that to fasten gears to shafts on Maxon motors. You need to clean both the screw and hole threads with alcohol or brake/electrical cleaner let dry, apply loctite to fastener or threaded hole. As it is a thru hole you won't create a hydraulic lock, applying liquids to blind holes and not the fastener (in some cases) runs the risk of blowing out the back side of the hole in tight tolerance thin walled applications. Leave the part to sit for 24 hrs before installing back on motor. It is removeable but does require some heat, as for standing up to pressure and fluids it does this well as we use loctite in several different pieces of equipment and regularly pressure test to 100 Psi with no leaks. On the other hand a Spin on filter adaptor from Randy would simplify future oil changes and remove the screw issue all together.
Shaun
Thanks, Shaun. You answered my question. I will take your advice on the housing drain screw and order a spin on adapter.
GT
No problem, glad I could help somebody out. Just to clarify my short write up, tighten the fastener to correct spec, and take it easy getting there as the loctite will work as a lubricant on the threads when tightening allowing for the possibility of over torque on the fastener. Also wipe off any excess loctite that squeezes out from under the screw head before it dries as it can be a pain to clean up when dry.
Shaun
Quote from: Shaun on November 02, 2011, 05:38:43 PM
No problem, glad I could help somebody out. Just to clarify my short write up, tighten the fastener to correct spec, and take it easy getting there as the loctite will work as a lubricant on the threads when tightening allowing for the possibility of over torque on the fastener. Also wipe off any excess loctite that squeezes out from under the screw head before it dries as it can be a pain to clean up when dry.
Shaun
FWIW, lubricated fasteners generally require 1/2 the normal torque value. Liquid thread lock acts like a lubricant while it is a liquid.
Thanks guys for the replies. I drilled and tapered but there was still a huge leak cos the skrew I used did not sit flush. My main problem was I had no washer. So I used a small amount of loctite with a makeshift washer. I will be getting a copper one(thanks ninjamudder - was wondering what kind I needed) during my luch time and when(or if) it leaks again I will sort it out correctly.
A spin on adapter from Randy is on my wishlist :yes: but first more important matters to tend to.
I didnt think of the half torque for liquid and about the through hole so I definitely learned somethings for future referrence.
As for the gasket goo. Apparently it makes a gasket :shok: a guy showed me how you use silicone or the likes to mould it and then it becomes a gasket. Which means in a pinch if I need a gasket I will use it. Til then I will trust Randy's stuff
hi jesse, if im up too it ill have a look for a different lever , if you still want one, im sure i have the type you need ,seeing how the other was different