Ok so yesterday I did a check on my bike and discovered dried leaking oil on the motor.
I asked a friend who said I have either blown a gasket or it is loose, both of which he tells me are big jobs to fix.
I'll post up 2 pics but I would like second opinions on what the problem might actually be, how it could have happened and how to prevent in future, if there is a DIY to sorting the problem out that would also be helpful. Other info, the bike sounds very tingy like their is loose metal in the motor - i think.. Also it feels like I have lees power and when I put the throttle open it sounds like air is escaping the motor somewhere - again i think... I could be mistaken as to what these sounds actually mean
Here are the pics, thanks for any help
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/1788_19_09_11_2_37_01.jpeg)
the oil (dry now and doesnt seem to be carrying on leaking) makes its way from the center of the enging at the bottom and leaks over to where is pictured..
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/1788_19_09_11_2_35_39.jpeg)
As pictured this from the center of the engine under that oil thing, sorry best pic I could get
It is possible that the oil is leaking down from the cam cover. The rubber seal may need replacing or you could seal it with some silicone. This is simple to do.
Stuart
Quote from: mz_rider on September 19, 2011, 08:28:33 AM
It is possible that the oil is leaking down from the cam cover. The rubber seal may need replacing or you could seal it with some silicone. This is simple to do.
Stuart
I wouldn't use silicone on it... the cam cover seal (and bolt grommets) are neither expensive, nor difficult to change.
If it is that simple and cheap then it is good to know. I took the bike to the dealer I purchased it from (still under warranty by just a few miles :good2:) and they said they would have to take it in for a day let the engine cool and then clean it to see where the oil was coming from, so I guess thats some good news...
Im glad that its simlple if it is just the seal that is worn. Just a quick question though. There are times when I dont actually let my bike fully warm up after starting it and then riding it - I never rev too hard, but could I still be damaging it? The engine is usually so cold that if i dont warm it up and just pull off that the bike will stutter at 2000rpm (even with WFO throttle) and I will have to use the clutch to get the bike to go to higher revs.
For interests sake, how expensive are gaskets to repair and what kind of damage will they do to the bike if not repaired?
Valve cover gasket is my second guess... Cam cover bolt gaskets (the ones that retain the valve cover) is my first guess. Easy to see if that's it once you pop the tank off.
Use the choke and don't ride with excessive throttle openings nor high rpm until the oil warms up.
Valve cover gaskets are pretty easy to replace, and not hugely expensive. Randy's got the big one for $40 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Head%3AV%2FCGasket) and the little ones for $2 each (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Head%3AFJGrommet), you'll need $16 worth.
As far as damage from a leak? It's messy at best. At worst, oil gets on your tire and you slide under a car and die. At middle of worst, you forget to check the oil, run the motor dry, and destroy the bottom end... then the motor locks up, you fall off, go under a car, and die. Fix it.
I experienced a similar oil leak this spring. Thought it was the valve cover gasket, but when I got the tank off found it to be the valve cover bolt gromets. I replaced all the gromets and the gasket. Figured if the gromets were dried up, so was the gasket. $40 is a good price for the gasket. I paid $69 on line, dealer wanted $99 :wacko3:. Won't make that mistake again.
The OEM valve cover gaskets were pretty cheap a couple years ago, but now they are close to $100.
You may want to listen to andy and save your self a few bucks.
Quote from: andyb on September 19, 2011, 12:06:48 PM
Randy's got the big one for $40 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Head%3AV%2FCGasket)
I agree with everyone one else, valve cover gasket and Cover bolt gaskets
I would love to use Randy's services but shipping to South Afrrica would probably cost me a shitload. The oil hasnt continued to leak - so far as I can see, but the bike is now sitting at the dealer who sold it to me, they are gonna have a look at it and fix it and since the bike is still under warranty they hopefully shouldnt charge me. It was something I wanted to do myself, but with having no time on my hands I am inveriably skrewed.
Still cant figure out what the noise is coming from the engine, the dealer reckons its probably the exhaust, so I have no clue this moment....
Thanks for the help, will keep everyone updated on what happens, unless as Andy said I end up under a car and die :shok:
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on September 20, 2011, 01:29:29 AM
I would love to use Randy's services but shipping to South Afrrica would probably cost me a shitload. The oil hasnt continued to leak - so far as I can see, but the bike is now sitting at the dealer who sold it to me, they are gonna have a look at it and fix it and since the bike is still under warranty they hopefully shouldnt charge me. It was something I wanted to do myself, but with having no time on my hands I am inveriably skrewed.
Still cant figure out what the noise is coming from the engine, the dealer reckons its probably the exhaust, so I have no clue this moment....
Thanks for the help, will keep everyone updated on what happens, unless as Andy said I end up under a car and die :shok:
You got a warranty on a used bike that old? What a deal! :biggrin:
Ok so the dealer contacted me and told me that the exhauster header had a problem and the gasket there had blown and unfortunately that isnt covered by my garuntee and will cost me 850 rand to repair by welding. they said I should just get a new header... any thoughts?
850rand = $110 USD or so, for reference for the rest of us.
Up to you. I'd get a custom made stainless header crafted by the very best in the business if money was no object, but it'd probably run somewhere near $6k (45,800rand). What's available to you, what do you expect from the bike, etc? And while we're at it, how the hell do you blow a gasket and require any welding to fix it? I'd skip on that and then some.
Randy's shipped to hungary with some success. A $40 gasket sent gives $60 worth of shipping cost before it becomes silly, assuming your dealer wants $100, y`know? Depends on your dealers and your relationship with them. (Read, how big of mercanary bloodsucking assholes they are.)
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on September 20, 2011, 01:29:29 AM
I would love to use Randy's services but shipping to South Afrrica would probably cost me a shitload.
You might be suprised, that is what Lotsokids thought too.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on September 20, 2011, 09:26:36 AM
Ok so the dealer contacted me and told me that the exhauster header had a problem and the gasket there had blown and unfortunately that isnt covered by my garuntee and will cost me 850 rand to repair by welding. they said I should just get a new header... any thoughts?
Well, I am not sure if I am reading it properly, but if the header gasket is blown that will not cause an oil leak. There are limited sources of places to leak and you need to start at the top of the engine. The V/C Gasket & grommets are the highest selling item I sell.
From there you have the timing chain tensioner gasket at the back of the cylinder that can run forward and then the base gasket. I would say since the oil is leaking down low on the right side that oil passage dowel seals are fine.
Of course, as we have seen prior a member had a pinhole in the front of the timing chain kickout, but that was a pretty severe leak.
Sounds like it is time to check it out yourself as no matter what the problem might be it probably won't be "covered".
Randy - RPM
Quote from: andyb on September 20, 2011, 09:48:58 AM
Randy's shipped to hungary with some success.
Quote from: racerrad8 on September 20, 2011, 11:52:11 AM
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on September 20, 2011, 01:29:29 AM
I would love to use Randy's services but shipping to South Afrrica would probably cost me a shitload.
You might be suprised, that is what Lotsokids thought too.
Randy - RPM
Yes. I live in Hungary and the shipping cost is not bad at all. So far I've never been charged Hungarian VAT taxes or other charges, either. I get his parts to my doorstep in about a week. Go through the motions of ordering. Before you finalize, you can see the shipping rate for your address. Give it a try!
Randy - Doesn't that valve cover gasket come with a set of those small bolt grommets? I ended up with an extra set somehow.
Quote from: Lotsokids on September 20, 2011, 12:09:53 PM
Randy - Doesn't that valve cover gasket come with a set of those small bolt grommets? I ended up with an extra set somehow.
Nope, the gasket & bolt seals are seperate. When you ordered your V/C gasket you did not order bolt seals. I emailed you but did not hear back before I needed to ship. Based on your location and the delay in shipping I took a chance you needed them and sent them as well and would charge you later.
But, I heard back from you the next day and you told me you had already replaced them, so you now have an extra set.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on September 20, 2011, 12:54:45 PM
Nope, the gasket & bolt seals are seperate. When you ordered your V/C gasket you did not order bolt seals. I emailed you but did not hear back before I needed to ship. Based on your location and the delay in shipping I took a chance you needed them and sent them as well and would charge you later.
But, I heard back from you the next day and you told me you had already replaced them, so you now have an extra set.
Randy - RPM
Stand-up move, that is.
Nice going Randy!
Dan
Not surprising at all....Typical Randy :good2:
Quote from: Dan Filetti on September 20, 2011, 01:21:24 PM
Stand-up move, that is.
Nice going Randy!
Dan
I agree. You're a class act Randy.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 20, 2011, 02:06:59 PM
Not surprising at all....Typical Randy :good2:
Yes it is... :good:
........ I also agree, ... Randy is first class!!
Ok so I heard wrong from the dealer, telephone conversations are a waste of time. Okay so here is what is happening according to them:
Its none of the gaskets that have blown, from what I understand after talking to the guys. The oil leak they say is just the bike "sweating" they said this was quite normal of older bikes and that I am not to worry as the bike wont leak enough oil at a time to drip. I personally dont know if this "sweating" is accurate or true. They said in order to fix it (not that its important anyway) would be a 12 hour job becuase when you take things apart you mess up the system or something and then have to replace everything. Terminology that I dont understand enough to try and repeat.
With the exhaust issue now.... The problem is the exhaust header is damaged and blowing on the 1st and second things on the right and that is what is causing the loss of power and the really terrible sound from the motor. There was promising news where I might have been able to order the exhuast header alone, but now cant. So unfortunately they say I will have to order the full system with exhaust for 3200 rand (about 450 dollars I think) which isnt too bad of a price actually. But before I make any desicions ( I only eran 4500 a month - so going with the system will leave me bankrupt virtually) are there any suggestions, second opinions corrections ect or just advice that anybody can help me with? I will take a look at Randys page and see if i can get the headers there and how much it will cost.
They said I could drive around with the exhaust as it is for a little while but I mustnt push the bike as I will then probably blow a gasket for sure and then have very big damage for the bike. So I need to be very careful
Get the bike back.... "Sweating"???? The dealer is an idiot or screwing with you, I suspect the 2nd option. As we've told you, the likely cause of your oil leak is the cam cover gasket and bolt seals.....
Pictures of the exhaust headers may help us, if you actually need head pipes, ebay is the place..... or the classifieds here, if Randy doesn't have anything.
Sweating?
A properly sealed engine doesn't leak. End of story.
I agree that the engine isnt sealed properly but with them saying it would be a 12 hour job to replace and since I have no knowledge of how to fix it myself I am sort of at the mercy now. I took a look on Randys site, but I could only find the exhaust headers for the 1200? are they the same because I have never seen anything like them on my 1100. As far as pictures go, I dont know what I would actually be taking a picture of? I know now that the gasket they said had blown was the gasket in the exhaust header but thats not causing the leak - well its not actually a leak because its not exactly always there. I cleaned the engine to remove the old oil and nothing has come uo since although I did notice that oil had also leaked to the back of the engine (the opposite side of the first pic in this thread) and its also coming from the middle
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on September 21, 2011, 08:11:46 AM
I agree that the engine isnt sealed properly but with them saying it would be a 12 hour job to replace and since I have no knowledge of how to fix it myself I am sort of at the mercy now. I took a look on Randys site, but I could only find the exhaust headers for the 1200? are they the same because I have never seen anything like them on my 1100. As far as pictures go, I dont know what I would actually be taking a picture of? I know now that the gasket they said had blown was the gasket in the exhaust header but thats not causing the leak - well its not actually a leak because its not exactly always there. I cleaned the engine to remove the old oil and nothing has come uo since although I did notice that oil had also leaked to the back of the engine (the opposite side of the first pic in this thread) and its also coming from the middle
Or, you could choose to actually take this opportunity to learn something about your bike, and fix it yourself.
The cover gasket and bolt grommets are one of the simplest repair jobs on the FJ. You can do it.
If you really want to trace the exact source of the leak, clean the engine well and spray it with aerosol powder (like foot powder). The source should become evident as soon as you run it.
The "early" FJ's had a double walled exhaust header.
These frequently rust through and rattle, which may be what yours is doing.
The "later" FJ's (from '86 on, I think) all had single wall STAINLESS headers that did not have this problem.
These "later" downpipes will interchange with your pipes.
With 850 rand being ~US$108, I'd go looking for a set of late model exhaust downpipes or a good condition 4 into 1 exhaust.
Arnie
I have been trying to find some headers and downpipes and to be honest their price on ebay isnt that great with shipping copmared to buying a complete system. I currently have an AIRAGE exhaust and the cheapest full system I can get is a cowley for 3200 including labour. compared the 2 arent that bad actually, so I see this as sort of an opportunity to make the bike a little better.
What are the opinions on buying the full system and saving time in having to do future repairs vs getting a cheaper second hand set of downpipes and header(which arent easy to find and even harder to find in good condition)
I could afford the system if i could take 2 months to pay it but the dealership doesnt do accounts. So unless i can make a plan I will only be able to replace the system in 2 months. What damage am I to expect? With regards to the old system, what can I do with it? The AiRAGE is still in good condition from what I can tell so I am thinking of selling it to make up a bit of cash. Can I sell any of the rest of the system?
If I can do the replacing of the gaskets myself I am then assuming that it being a 12 hour job is bullshit? As for actually doing it myself, I will try, when I actually have all the neccasarry parts in hand. I cant afford not to have the FJ not running not even for a day so I want to make sure that once I open it up I finish it. For the moment it seems the header problem is a more serious one and therefore requires more timely action so that will be my priority - unless anybody can supply me with a valid reason for the gaskets being more important than the exhaust
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on September 21, 2011, 09:05:55 AM
If I can do the replacing of the gaskets myself I am then assuming that it being a 12 hour job is bullshit? As for actually doing it myself, I will try, when I actually have all the neccasarry parts in hand. I cant afford not to have the FJ not running not even for a day so I want to make sure that once I open it up I finish it. For the moment it seems the header problem is a more serious one and therefore requires more timely action so that will be my priority - unless anybody can supply me with a valid reason for the gaskets being more important than the exhaust
TOTAL bullshit, if it's just an exhaust gasket, cam cover gasket, and grommets.
I would think that even a complete novice could finish those jobs in two hours or less.
Just don't overtighten the cover bolts... they are easy to twist off. Borrow a torque wrench if you can.
Do you have a complete aftermarket exhaust, or just a slip-on? If stock headpipes are still there, where exactly is the leak?
Quote from: RichBaker on September 22, 2011, 12:01:31 AM
Do you have a complete aftermarket exhaust, or just a slip-on? If stock headpipes are still there, where exactly is the leak?
Im not actaually sure if its a complete system or just a slip on but I know that I can unskrew the exhaust from the system. Im not entirely sure either where the leak is. The dealer told me it was blowing from the 1st and second headers and the header gaskets there had blown So I am assuming the leak is there.
Its a 4 into 1 system if that helps in determining if its just a slip on or not
And I havent heard anyone say "DONT BUY THE NEW SYSTEM" so Im assuming that I should go ahead with it? since I only get the rest of my pay on fridai I will only be able to order on saturday so if someone can tell me Im an idiot and not buy the system for a valid reason please tell me..As I said the advantage of getting the new system is that it would be NEW-therefore no problems and covered by a garuntee just incase.
The gaskets dont seem like an expensive job and it doesnt look Im at too much risk just yet. With the exhaust however I am really starting to worry if the bike will get home each day now. I mean it still rides, but it struggles to start, it bogs down when cold, it is far less powerful. It soiunds worse than a tractor with a lawnmower chopping through shreds of metal. BUT the worst byproduct so far is the heat. The engine is atleast 3 times hotter than I normally feel. AS an example, I took the bike home from work (slowish 20 min ride - not too much traffic) got home and parked the bike outside like normally and could feel the heat saunaring off the engine all the way to my neck - air temp was ony 20 degrees C - not hot at all. And 6 hours later (at 12 midnight) I remembered to put the bike cover back on. Went outside very cold proceeded to put the bike cover on and could still feel the heat from the engine-not hot but still there. Normally it takes just 2 hours for my bike to fully cool down at rest so that you can touch the engine and feel cold metal. So yes this makes me worry just a tiny little SHITLOAD
Take the bike to another mechanic and get a second opinion. You might save yourself alot of money. You haven't described the exhaust problem, to us, in terns that any of us can understand. You need to tell us EXACTLY where it is leaking and what needs WELDING to fix it. Forget about your oil leak for a while, that's only complicating your post about your exhaust. There is nothing on your exhaust system that can't be repaired by welding, so there is no need to buy a new system, especially if you don't have enough money. Pete.
The dealer mentioned that it was the headers that needed to be welded. They told me it would cost 850rand (about 110dollars) and that it may only last 6 months becuase of heat from the engine. I may have understood what they said wrong, but its the headers that need to be welded and the gaskets in them that need to be replaced.
Quick question for Andy> I had a quick squiz at the file section with mods you can do to your FJ, I read there something about larger nuts or something? and the comment was that if a proper sealment wasnt used it would cause the oil to seep out - something like that. Is it possible that is the case with my FJ? I know that a couple years ago the engine was rebuilt, but dont know anymore detail than that as the previous owner is dead. Rest his soul.
Not to get off topic or anything, can somebody please provide me with a link to a 1349cc thread, how to get it etc? I would really like to make a model replica of the race version I seen with the full fairing, obviously it will take time to do and money but its something i dont mind waiting for.
I made a plan and I have enough money for the complete exhaust system so I can do it. Like I said I would prefer a permanent fix rather than something that may brake later again anyway. If there is more information needed to ask something like pictures, I will take them, but please tell me exactly what to take a picture of - maybe even show me a pic - I know im not really in a position to ask for something like that but then I know for sure what I need to do and wont make myself look like an idiot...
4-1 sounds like a complete aftermarket system..... but, if it's only leaking at the gaskets, it should only require new gaskets. A couple hours work unless there are major complications, such as broken studs..... In all, shouldn't be 12 hours work involved.
Quote from: RichBaker on September 22, 2011, 06:24:06 AM
4-1 sounds like a complete aftermarket system..... but, if it's only leaking at the gaskets, it should only require new gaskets. A couple hours work unless there are major complications, such as broken studs..... In all, shouldn't be 12 hours work involved.
The dealership did mention that if they had to replace them or something of the sorts it would "disrupt the system" and that would require the whole of it to be replaced. So there may be broken studs.
What I do know is that my dealer disagrees with everything the guys on this site say. I choose to believe the people here as they have specific experience with the FJs
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on September 22, 2011, 05:34:49 AM
Quick question for Andy> I had a quick squiz at the file section with mods you can do to your FJ, I read there something about larger nuts or something? and the comment was that if a proper sealment wasnt used it would cause the oil to seep out - something like that. Is it possible that is the case with my FJ? I know that a couple years ago the engine was rebuilt, but dont know anymore detail than that as the previous owner is dead. Rest his soul.
You're not listening. Yes, you can go to a stronger nut for the engine in an effort to provide additional torque on the head gasket and base gasket, which is undoubtedly unrelated to what's leaking (the valve cover and cam cap bolt gaskets). You can check the torque on your head studs with a torque wrench, which should have been done shortly after the motor was rebuilt and run.
Quote
Not to get off topic or anything, can somebody please provide me with a link to a 1349cc thread, how to get it etc? I would really like to make a model replica of the race version I seen with the full fairing, obviously it will take time to do and money but its something i dont mind waiting for.
Replace cylinder liners, bore to size, clearance upper crankcases as needed, assemble. Fix anything else you want while you're in there, set things to whatever spec, etc. Same as any overbore that requires new liners. If you want to send things out for nikasil plating and cryo treatment or whatever you feel like spending on, go for it.
Quote
made a plan and I have enough money for the complete exhaust system so I can do it. Like I said I would prefer a permanent fix rather than something that may brake later again anyway. If there is more information needed to ask something like pictures, I will take them, but please tell me exactly what to take a picture of - maybe even show me a pic - I know im not really in a position to ask for something like that but then I know for sure what I need to do and wont make myself look like an idiot...
Gosh, how about the area that is leaking or is damaged? That'd be a pretty logical first step.
I thought that was covered in the first post? if you mean take the engine apart thats something I can only do on the weekend
I realise I may not be supplying enough information, so tonight I will tear into the FJ and take a picture of everything that looks cracked/ damaged etc starting from the plugs and eventually working my way down the exhaust. Are there any specific tools I will need in order to take the these parts apart and is there anything i need to be careful for
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on September 22, 2011, 08:07:09 AM
I thought that was covered in the first post? if you mean take the engine apart thats something I can only do on the weekend
I think what is being asked is more detailed pics of the whole area in question. Fortunately, I'm just finishing up replacing my cylinder cover gasket and bolt grommets myself, using the opportunity to check and adjust the valves. New gasket in place. Below are a series of pics as an example. You need to use my example and take some pics of your bike in the same general area and post them here. Then those in the known on this site can study them and hopefully determine what might be the problem with your bike and offer some advice. Good luck.
Pull off gas tank and look at cylinder cover. Mine is cleaned up now but it was full of caked on oil. (http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww348/Stratoliner07/P9210779.jpg)
Pull off your fairing scoops and you can get a look at the front of your cylinder cover gasket. Is there evidence of an oil leak either from the gasket or the bolt gromets?(http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww348/Stratoliner07/P9210789.jpg)
Take some pics of around the exhaust header. Take several from different angles as the camera only shows a narrow field of view.(http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww348/Stratoliner07/P9210783.jpg)
(http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww348/Stratoliner07/P9210784.jpg)
(http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww348/Stratoliner07/P9210792.jpg)
Get a close up if you can.(http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww348/Stratoliner07/P9210793.jpg)
Hope this helps.
STOP !!!
You've now got a number of people trying to help you, and every one of them thinks your problem is different. Perhaps one person has got it right, but which one?
Taking pictures will probably not help. If you have a gasket problem, it is unlikely to be visible, so pictures will not show the problem.
For any of us to help you we need to actually know what the problem is. That requires us to ALL be speaking the same language. Sorry to say, but you are the one who (at this time) does not yet know the correct technical names for things. That might not be so bad, but you take terms you've heard and mis-apply them. Hence, confusion for us all.
The only gaskets that might require 12hrs of labor to replace by a trained mechanic would be the head or base gaskets. As distrustful as I am about dealers, I doubt anyone would try to charge you 12hrs labor for an exhaust gasket or a valve cover gasket.
If you can slow down enough to thoroughly and accurately describe your problem (which cylinder(s), what its doing (missing, rattling, blowing smoke, not firing, leaking oil and from where, oiled plugs, blistered plugs) we can try to help.
Notes: #1 cylinder is on left of the engine when seated on the bike facing forward.
#2 cylinder is next to the right inboard of #1 when seated on the bike facing forward
#3 cylinder is next to the right of #2 when seated on the bike facing forward
#4 cylinder is on the right end of the engine when seated on the bike facing forward
If you have a shop manual, read it. This will help you to name items correctly.
If you DON'T have a shop manual - get one !!!
If you believe you have multiple problems....
Try to describe them separately and work on ONE at a time.
Take the time to correct spelling and use punctuation.
This helps others understand what you are describing without guessing.
Separate your written thoughts with a blank line. It lets us know there is a break.
Arnie
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on September 22, 2011, 09:02:43 AM
I realise I may not be supplying enough information, so tonight I will tear into the FJ and take a picture of everything that looks cracked/ damaged etc starting from the plugs and eventually working my way down the exhaust. Are there any specific tools I will need in order to take the these parts apart and is there anything i need to be careful for
THANK YOU ARNIE!
More information that's not related to the problem(s) is just NOISE.
I got confused several pages ago and gave up.
Do what Arnie says. Separate your problems from other stuff you want to do. Otherwise everyone will get confused by the multiple topics, then frustrated at the differing conversations, and finally give up. For 3 pages now you've been told to replace the cam cover gasket and grommets (I think this is the original issue). But now you've gone off into several different directions with WAY too much information (noise!).
Start over.
DavidR.
First of all, thanks for all the clearing up. Thanks for the illustrated guide of what I need to take pictures of. I unfortuntaely only got to read the post now, but I think I still took adequate pictures and even a video.
However to make everyones life easier I will discontinue this thread and start 2 more up with the exhaust header issue and the leak issue providing (hopefully) enough adequate and usefull info for the guys trying to help me.
Many thanks
Jesse
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on September 21, 2011, 09:05:55 AM
If I can do the replacing of the gaskets myself I am then assuming that it being a 12 hour job is bullshit?
From where I sit, this was the dealer essentailly being indirect about telling you they did not want to do the work. This way, if you did actually say, 'yeah OK' then they make a tidy profit on the PITA job. Find someone else who does want to help you, and will be reasonable about estimates.
Dan