Just a matter of interest but how often should one replace oil? And what oild should one use? I use a brand called castrol syntec 20w 50, which I have been told is really good, lubricates well and protects engine parts etc.. Is there something better or is the one I am using good enough? I dont want to turn the FJ into a crotch rocket I just want to make sure I am feeding her properly..
I've been using Syntec 10w40, change it around 5-6k miles. I feel the 20w50 is too thick for most engines.... the manual doesn't even mention 20w50, it says to use 10w40, even at higher temps. Been running it for about 8 years now.
BTW, the FJ IS a crotch rocket..... one of the 1st, in fact.
Replace the oil when you're comfortable. I've never let the FJ's oil go longer than 2000 miles myself, but I mistreat and abuse it regularly. Always change the filter at the same time, and periodically pull the oil pan and inspect the pickup screen for problems (every few years or so is safe, more often if you abuse things--a good time is when you replace a clutch, as that worn fiber had to go someplace).
I use cheap 10w40 myself. When I tore the engine down after more than 100 dragstrip passes, the bearings were still in good shape, showing minimal wear after all the abuse an 20k mi or so, so it worked for me.
I was told by my dealer that if one uses what the manufacture recomends, no matter what brand of bike you ride, you can't go wrong. No need to spend extra money on designer brands or special blends of oil. I use Yamalube in my '90 FJ (as recommended). Have been since almost new. At 61,000 miles I use maybe one half quart between oil changes every 3,000 miles (sometimes longer) and some of that loss is due to slight oil drippage. FWIW
Luckily I dont abuse the bike just yet but on the next oil change I will definitely give the 10w 40 a try and see if it goes well compared to the 20w 50. It isnt a particularly expensive oil but costs more than the average oil. As for when I replace the clutch. I have never ever done that and wouldnt actually know when to do it. My cluctch feels fine apart from sometimes not engaging properly (probably air stuck in it from what I am told) otherwise the only noticable thing for me is that if my fingers arent on the clucth even from just starting the bike the lever will shake/ vibrate while the break doesnt. I dont know is that normal, is the fitting just loose or is my lack on the subject(or rather lack of action to it) going to kill me? Like I said I wouldnt know as the 125cc I rode before didnt even have clutch fluid and the only time I replaced it was when the lever snapped after the bike fell over.
As you've probably noticed by now, there are lots of different opinions on what oil to use and how often to change it. I've used Valvolene 20W-50 changed every 5,000kms for the last 90,000 kms (of the 125K kms the bike has on it) and not had any oil related problems. At the last change, I changed to 15W 40 Diesel oil. Too early to know if its any better or worse.
You'll know when to replace the clutch - it'll start to slip and you'll find the engine is spinning faster, but the bike hasn't changed speed. Your clutch lever pivot may be wearing. If you remove the lever you can inspect the pivot pin and the pivot hole in the lever. The hole may be elongated from wear and the pivot pin may have a worn area. Replace whichever is worn (or both) and make sure you grease it occasionally in future.
Arnie
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on July 27, 2011, 09:21:33 AM
Luckily I dont abuse the bike just yet but on the next oil change I will definitely give the 10w 40 a try and see if it goes well compared to the 20w 50. It isnt a particularly expensive oil but costs more than the average oil. As for when I replace the clutch. I have never ever done that and wouldnt actually know when to do it. My cluctch feels fine apart from sometimes not engaging properly (probably air stuck in it from what I am told) otherwise the only noticable thing for me is that if my fingers arent on the clucth even from just starting the bike the lever will shake/ vibrate while the break doesnt. I dont know is that normal, is the fitting just loose or is my lack on the subject(or rather lack of action to it) going to kill me? Like I said I wouldnt know as the 125cc I rode before didnt even have clutch fluid and the only time I replaced it was when the lever snapped after the bike fell over.
I won't even use Castrol products in my lawnmower.
My then new XS750E developed an oil burning problem at about 15k miles, running on Castrol oil in the recommended weight. Switching to a different brand (CAM2) took care of it.
I've not used any Castrol oils since... their Super Clean is pretty good stuff, though.
Randy T
Indy
I've heard that japanese engineers designing FJ's engine 27 years ago didn't know how good synthetic oils will be. Consequently mineral 20W40 changed every 6 000 km is enough. Everything more is spending extra money for nothing...
I've heard it, but I don't agree. I 'love' my bike and I'm going to feed the engine the best oil I 'can'. Actually I have Motul 7100 10W40 full synth. Second season. Depends on klimat one live first factor is important. Above +5°C we should use 20W. I have 10W because I'm riding till 0°C - moderate climate ;)
Synthetic oils are better - more stable at temperature and doesn't run down so qiuck like mineral. And it is not true that for older engine one can not use synth oil, of course one should flush engine and clean oil pan before.
Generally IMO the producer of oil (his technology) is more important than brand. Type of petroleum from Pennsylvania is also better then russian petroleum which contain more sulfur and has less lubricating properties.
I've been suggested types like Quaker State or Royal Purple. In car I have Quaker and I can really hear the difference - runs quieter, also haven't noticed consumption after 2 000 km.
That's my point of view.
EDIT:
I forgot to remind that for our wet clutches is extremely impotant to oil have JASO MA2 class.
...and according to topic, I've been suggested that Castrol is rather lower class, Motul which I use (popular in EU) is middle, and the best are pointed in above :)
Jarek
Quote from: rktmanfj on July 27, 2011, 12:39:24 PM
I've not used any Castrol oils since... their Super Clean is pretty good stuff, though.
Randy T
Indy
I don't think that Super Clean is a Castrol product any longer. I've been buying it by the gallon for years, and in the last few years the Castrol name has been conspicuously absent. It was at about the same time that the jug changed from white to purple, If I recall.
Quote from: JFox on July 27, 2011, 04:59:29 PM
I've heard that japanese engineers designing FJ's engine 27 years ago didn't know how good synthetic oils will be. Consequently mineral 20W40 changed every 6 000 km is enough. Everything more is spending extra money for nothing...
I've heard it, but I don't agree. I 'love' my bike and I'm going to feed the engine the best oil I 'can'. Actually I have Motul 7100 10W40 full synth. Second season. Depends on klimat one live first factor is important. Above +5°C we should use 20W. I have 10W because I'm riding till 0°C - moderate climate ;)
Synthetic oils are better - more stable at temperature and doesn't run down so qiuck like mineral. And it is not true that for older engine one can not use synth oil, of course one should flush engine and clean oil pan before.
Generally IMO the producer of oil (his technology) is more important than brand. Type of petroleum from Pennsylvania is also better then russian petroleum which contain more sulfur and has less lubricating properties.
I've been suggested types like Quaker State or Royal Purple. In car I have Quaker and I can really hear the difference - runs quieter, also haven't noticed consumption after 2 000 km.
That's my point of view.
EDIT:
I forgot to remind that for our wet clutches is extremely impotant to oil have JASO MA2 class.
...and according to topic, I've been suggested that Castrol is rather lower class, Motul which I use (popular in EU) is middle, and the best are pointed in above :)
Jarek
YOU SEE! This forum does need an oil forum.
Jarek, I have used diesel oil 15W40 in lots of older bikes with good results. The diesel oil doesn't have any friction modifiers as there is in modern car oil so there is no screwing up the friction on the clutch and no need to buy the expensive "motorcycle" oils.
Quote from: mikeholzer on July 27, 2011, 05:44:26 PM
Quote from: rktmanfj on July 27, 2011, 12:39:24 PM
I've not used any Castrol oils since... their Super Clean is pretty good stuff, though.
Randy T
Indy
I don't think that Super Clean is a Castrol product any longer. I've been buying it by the gallon for years, and in the last few years the Castrol name has been conspicuously absent. It was at about the same time that the jug changed from white to purple, If I recall.
Makes sense, Mike... they likely sold off the only decent product in their lineup. :biggrin:
Been a while since I actually bought any. A gallon goes a long way.
Randy T
Indy
Shell Rotella for me. I use this in all my machines. There are 12 internal combustion engines here-all of the non-2 stroke motors get Rotella now.
Working just fine for me. I especially like the way the bikes, and the quad shift with Rotella in them over others. I tried Castrol and did not like it at all, shifting was MUCH klunkier, especially on the Gixxer.
Dan
Wow, Lee C is going to be very disappointed to hear that Castrol is crap. Probably just a fluke. He's just lucky to have gotten 250,000 miles using the bottom of the line Castrol GTX.
My last oil change was to Diesel oil. I'll be running back to Castrol for the next change.
DavidR.
I have found clean oil is more important than what brand oil.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on July 27, 2011, 08:34:19 PM
Wow, Lee C is going to be very disappointed to hear that Castrol is crap.
Sarcastic much, David? I never said it was crap. I simply said I did not like it, because my bikes shifted noticeably better on another oil. I did this back-to-back-to-back (Rotella to GTX to Rotella) It was a very stark and obvious difference. YRMV
Dan
Chill Dan, that was directed at Randy's comments.
I was trying to work in a reference to DOT 5 brake fluid, but it wasn't working. :-)
And I'll admit that I screwed up and used the regular diesel oil, not the synthetic. I noticed the synthetic diesel oil is just as expensive as Mobil 1 at WallyWorld.
Maybe I should start using the quote function more often , but I'm really tired of seeing a three page quote for a one line comment. (That's not directed at you either).
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on July 27, 2011, 09:20:23 PM
I'll admit that I screwed up and used the regular diesel oil, not the synthetic.
DavidR.
Eh, how so? Bad experience with the 15w-40 Rotella?
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on July 27, 2011, 09:20:23 PM
I was trying to work in a reference to DOT 5 brake fluid, but it wasn't working. :-)
DavidR.
Keep workin' on that... :biggrin:
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on July 27, 2011, 09:20:23 PM
And I'll admit that I screwed up and used the regular diesel oil, not the synthetic. I noticed the synthetic diesel oil is just as expensive as Mobil 1 at WallyWorld.
DavidR.
I accidentally bought the silver jug (dino/synth blend?) Rotella at WM recently, but caught it before it made it into the FJ. I noticed the price change, too, and have gone back to Mobil1 in about everything.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on July 27, 2011, 09:20:23 PM
Maybe I should start using the quote function more often , but I'm really tired of seeing a three page quote for a one line comment. (That's not directed at you either).
DavidR.
The long quotes don't really bug me unless someone keeps posting their replies into the quote box (not mentioning any names (but dammit, there's a fcuking preview button, why not use it), or there's several replies that each include an OP's 42 pics (no matter how kewl they are).
You guys are lucky you've been running that Castrol crap in those 1st gen prototype FJs... :bomb:
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on July 27, 2011, 09:20:23 PM
Chill Dan...
Your post timing, right after mine, had me reacting. My bad.
Consider me chilled.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on July 27, 2011, 09:20:23 PM
I'm really tired of seeing a three page quote for a one line comment.
Don'tcha miss the old yahoo '<snip>' action every once in a while?
Dan
I know these oil topic can really get the blood pumping, but I have .2 cents I like to add.
I work at a GM dealership that is also the local VW dealer, and the VWs are required by manufacture, to use Castrol products including Syntec.
The dedicated VW mechanics have very little regard for the quality of Castrol products after woking on VWs for several years, with one of the comments comparing it with the sludge problems seen with Pennzoil.
I'm not expecting my post to carry any weight on the subject, as it's just an observation from mechanics that have seen the effects of its use over several years.
For me, personally, I'm totally happy using Yamalube in the FJ, and Mobil and Mobil 1 in my cars and trucks.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on July 27, 2011, 08:34:19 PM
Wow, Lee C is going to be very disappointed.
DavidR.
Lee is not the only one David. I've never used anything else, and never had a problem - and it don't burn oil or have to top it off between changes either.
Harvy
I'm going with Shell Rimula 3X over here. It is similar to the Rotella, and a 15W40. It does not have the JASO-MA spec. However I have sofar used it in my ZZR1200 and ZRX1200, and have no clutch slippage at all. What I do have is smoother gear shifts, a quiet engine, and the stuff contains more of what motocycles like. It is dinosaur oil, and cheaper.
It will go in to the FJ when it is due for an oil change.
Bill.
I've been using Castrol Syntec for 8 or so years, had the valve cover off a month ago, no signs of sludge...... everything looked clean and fresh in there. I change oil and filter ~5k mile intervals. She needed the gasket & grommets changed, badly. I spent a couple hours cleaning the old oily dust crud off everything before I pulled the cover...... pretty ugly. haven't used any oil since then.... :drinks:
My notice on using whatever oils is currently in the machine: the shifting if done incorrectly is horrible and when downshifting past neutral into first it sort of whirrs. whatever it is it is not smooth and the gears sometimes sound like they are grating(much like u would find in a car) it very well may be castrol currently in the machine. as to how old it is I wouldnt know. but this weekend i will definiotely clean up and put the new oil in and maybe a filter if i get time to.
I am sort of concerned by the sound the shifting sometimes makes as sometimes the bike runs very smoothly but at times not so smoothly. Mind you I may need to clean the carbs and jet them properly still.
Other great news, the bike starts up easy every day now in freezing cold and very wet conditions so im tempted to set the idler down a smidgen again. Other than that I will relube the chain now that its stopped pissing with rain. AND when december comes with the 13th cheque I will give the fJ some much loved upgrades and a real good service
I can see that these debaits do spark quite some interest though. The castrol was to my impression very good and reliable (not the gtx and their lower range stuff) and its also the easiest to find..
I will investigate the clutch this weekend and see if Arnie's suspicions are correct. :good2:
my 2 cents....like most here,i have had several bikes (actually,to many to count) and like most here we all have our good experiences and bad. After alot of reading tests about the sheer rates of oil (caused by the trans constantly chewing up the oil) and consequent breakdown of viscosity it appears that synthetics win every test....Rotella synthetic came out with high marks (in bikes)on a variety of these tests, as i recall,and in my bike it has made a marked improvement in shifting smoothness...better than any dino oil i have ever used without question. One last point of interest....in my Z1-kaw. turbo dragbike.....we where killing turbo bearings almost every race..maybe 4-6 passes tops, primarily because the Z1's have such low oil pressure... we did try most all conventional oils you can name...didnt matter.... Syntec had just came out so we tried that and it was a god send as we then made the complete season ! on one bearing ! no lie.
my honest opinion i worry about using non motorcycle specific oil. i run valvoline 10/40 moto oil cheap and to the point plus my old bike smokes like a train when started and a slit dribble on the pavement every once and a while. scarred the hell out of me at first i even think i lost sleep :dash1: hahaha but she seems like the same old rocket to me. just one hell of a bike i tell ya that
Quote from: srutherford on November 27, 2011, 01:41:37 PM<<smokes like a train when started and a slit dribble>>
Something about that just doesn't sound right. :bad:
Valve stem seals I belive only when its cold .and clutch pushrod seal
Quote from: srutherford on November 27, 2011, 01:54:17 PM
Valve stem seals I belive only when its cold .and clutch pushrod seal
ahh....NO.
What I think Randy was referring to was your "slit" dribble.!
Slit dribble hahaha. Slight dribble of oil srry my phone will make up words
Quote from: srutherford on November 27, 2011, 03:46:39 PM
Slit dribble hahaha. Slight dribble of oil srry my phone will make up words
That's cool, we all need a good laugh once in a while!
Leon
Yea slit dribbles are bad. Hahahahaha :wacko1:
Quote from: srutherford on November 27, 2011, 03:46:39 PM
Slit dribble hahaha. Slight dribble of oil srry my phone will make up words
What kind of phone would make that up......Nookiea?......Mole-arola?..... :bad:
Yea DROID x. A pos
For people who really have a thing for oil types, filters et all, try this website: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/)
I use Castrol Activ 4T 15w 50 with Moreys oil additive, both work really well, but am thinking of going to Yamalube....