I noticed on my fj that the fuel gauge will "find" more petrol in the tank when standing up than leaning on its stand (obvious I know) what Id like to know though is the needle never actually stays fixed, like whem I crank up the throttle it will move up and down sort of swaying and when i move the bike forward it does the same but generally moves around the same area. Is this normal on an FJ or what could be wrong?
With some searching, you'll undoubtedly find the answer. What you have is a lack of fluid damping in the gauge itself, it either leaks or dries out eventually. Expect that at some time the needle will swing wildly, all the way around, and end up on the other side of the stop. You can add a pin to limit the travel, but it'll still bounce. You can do some surgery on the gauge and add more fluid to damp the movement, though it involves a drill and your gauge, so it's up to you how brave you feel.
At this present moment i do not feel very brave but when i feel more brave i will definitely try, but what kind of fluid would i need. Shoot me if the answer is "fuel gauge needle fluid"
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on July 14, 2011, 08:22:27 AM
At this present moment i do not feel very brave but when i feel more brave i will definitely try, but what kind of fluid would i need. Shoot me if the answer is "fuel gauge needle fluid"
Dimethicone.
Quote from: rktmanfj on July 14, 2011, 08:25:32 AM
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on July 14, 2011, 08:22:27 AM
At this present moment i do not feel very brave but when i feel more brave i will definitely try, but what kind of fluid would i need. Shoot me if the answer is "fuel gauge needle fluid"
Dimethicone.
Guys I have the same problem, where my fuel gauge starts bouncing erratically after (approx) 50kms, around town it is ok and on short trips. I've checked/ replaced the fuel sensor, and checked all electrical bits including hotwiring to see if its a poor contact that heats up after time.
Now I keep I read this forum and I took one of gauge covers off to find where I can add the silicone oil (in case this is causing my gauge to bounce) and I can't seem to see any fluid/ dampener container on the needle shaft, so where does this oil go? how much?. Can some post pictures or directions please.
For $10.95, the price of a pin gage drill bit and a syringe you could go into the FJ fuel guage repair business.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DIMETHICONE-SILICONE-8-oz-/260696979049?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb2c03669 (http://cgi.ebay.com/DIMETHICONE-SILICONE-8-oz-/260696979049?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb2c03669)
Quote from: SkyFive on July 18, 2011, 09:39:59 PM
For $10.95, the price of a pin gage drill bit and a syringe you could go into the FJ fuel guage repair business.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DIMETHICONE-SILICONE-8-oz-/260696979049?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb2c03669 (http://cgi.ebay.com/DIMETHICONE-SILICONE-8-oz-/260696979049?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb2c03669)
Skyfive, understand why we use the oil and I can buy it from a nearby chemist, can you shed some light on what the pin gage (Aust for gauge) drill bit is for, are there any instructions on line or can you give a description of how to do this maintenance, thankyou.
Quote from: Bozo on July 18, 2011, 11:17:16 PM
Quote from: SkyFive on July 18, 2011, 09:39:59 PM
For $10.95, the price of a pin gage drill bit and a syringe you could go into the FJ fuel guage repair business.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DIMETHICONE-SILICONE-8-oz-/260696979049?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb2c03669 (http://cgi.ebay.com/DIMETHICONE-SILICONE-8-oz-/260696979049?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb2c03669)
Skyfive, understand why we use the oil and I can buy it from a nearby chemist, can you shed some light on what the pin gage (Aust for gauge) drill bit is for, are there any instructions on line or can you give a description of how to do this maintenance, thankyou.
the internal workings of the gauge must be accessed and the rear of the gauge is sealed.
a pilot hole must be drilled in the plastic case to allow the needle to penetrate the windings of the gauge so one may inject the dimethicone in the proper place which should restore proper damping to the gauge needle.
i guess a handy person could just heat up a paper clip and melt a small hole. :good2:
or you could do all this and still wind up buying a new gauge (IIRC less than 50 bucks)
KOokaloo!
Quote from: racerman_27410 on July 18, 2011, 11:38:54 PM
Quote from: Bozo on July 18, 2011, 11:17:16 PM
Quote from: SkyFive on July 18, 2011, 09:39:59 PM
For $10.95, the price of a pin gage drill bit and a syringe you could go into the FJ fuel guage repair business.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DIMETHICONE-SILICONE-8-oz-/260696979049?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb2c03669 (http://cgi.ebay.com/DIMETHICONE-SILICONE-8-oz-/260696979049?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb2c03669)
Skyfive, understand why we use the oil and I can buy it from a nearby chemist, can you shed some light on what the pin gage (Aust for gauge) drill bit is for, are there any instructions on line or can you give a description of how to do this maintenance, thankyou.
the internal workings of the gauge must be accessed and the rear of the gauge is sealed.
a pilot hole must be drilled in the plastic case to allow the needle to penetrate the windings of the gauge so one may inject the dimethicone in the proper place which should restore proper damping to the gauge needle.
i guess a handy person could just heat up a paper clip and melt a small hole. :good2:
or you could do all this and still wind up buying a new gauge (IIRC less than 50 bucks)
KOokaloo!
Racerman, it was my new gauge that also has a problem, obviously it wasn't stored correctly and allowed the fluid to leak out, I thought the plastic around the shaft was only a bush and didn't realise it stored dimethicone. I have small drills that I used for printed circuit boards. If I have any problems I'll let you know.
Maybe for future members I'll do a procedure (if I'm successful), chow and thanks
P.S Racerman, whats with the Kookaloo?, obviously there is a joke in there somewhere, just curious -
Racerman, I've enclosed a picture of my old gauge, where should I drill the hole - the plastic body that the windings are wound on or somewhere near the shaft?[img]DSC08468.JPG/img]. Opps for some reason the picture did not register, (I'll work on that later)
I was wondering the same thing when I first saw that, so I looked it up before I seen the answer on here...
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=kookaloo (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=kookaloo)
Notice the reference to the FJ.. :yahoo:
Is it true that it was someone's daughter on here that came up with it ?
P.S Racerman, whats with the Kookaloo?, obviously there is a joke in there somewhere, just curious -
[/quote]
It is actually quite amusing, as opposed to everyone saying the needle will bounce all the way around, my needle has now done the opposite and started bouncing down towards the empty I have the equipment and working on getting the dimethicone but as Bozo has said I also opened everything up and couldnt exactly see where the fluid went. Would you literally just drill a hole next to the very beginning of the needle? Can anyone post a picture with an arrow pointing to where the hole should be and also how much of the fluid shoud be used? I cant imagine much more than half a syringe would be neccassary?
my little sister came up with the kookaloo word? she used to scream it while wheelying her yz80 across my parents front yard.
KOokaloo! (have fun)
Quote from: fj1200d on July 19, 2011, 07:12:35 AM
I was wondering the same thing when I first saw that, so I looked it up before I seen the answer on here...
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=kookaloo (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=kookaloo)
Notice the reference to the FJ.. :yahoo:
Is it true that it was someone's daughter on here that came up with it ?
P.S Racerman, whats with the Kookaloo?, obviously there is a joke in there somewhere, just curious -
[/quote]
^^^
Maybe a reference to the Kookaburra?
A search pulled up a few posts on the subject
You can read how easy it is here http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1893.msg14999#msg14999 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1893.msg14999#msg14999)
And the picture you was looking for here http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2026.msg15992#msg15992 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2026.msg15992#msg15992)
Quote from: Travis398 on July 19, 2011, 03:16:34 PM
A search pulled up a few posts on the subject
And the picture you was looking for here http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2026.msg15992#msg15992 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2026.msg15992#msg15992)
Thanks for the leg work Travis. I'm having the same problem with mine.
I'm assuming that the little hole in the middle of the winding is the one that was drilled to add the Dimethicone.
Mark
Just to make sure but do you need to plug the hole up after the oil has been put in? and what would you use to close it up with?
Travis398, you're a champion thats exactly what I needed. FJt somebody wrote to plug the hole with silicon rubber (obviously after you've cleaned around the hole with some metho) while the unit is laying side ways. If you have a better way let me know, thanks to all that participated in the forum (mainly to the one that started it).
P.S whatever metho is left over - enjoy. Don't drink and ride.
Quote from: markmartin on July 19, 2011, 03:47:50 PM
Quote from: Travis398 on July 19, 2011, 03:16:34 PM
A search pulled up a few posts on the subject
And the picture you was looking for here http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2026.msg15992#msg15992 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2026.msg15992#msg15992)
Thanks for the leg work Travis. I'm having the same problem with mine.
And thanks andyb for posting the picture in the first place. :good2:
Yes, thank Andy.
Quote from: FJt!llD3@th on July 20, 2011, 01:30:59 AM
Just to make sure but do you need to plug the hole up after the oil has been put in? and what would you use to close it up with?
FJt, just did my fuel gauge mod, I used a match stick (cut down) to plug the hole and I added the rubber sealant around that. At first I only used the sealant but that appeared to go down the hole which would've stop the movement once dry.
I'll go for a ride on the weekend and see how it works.
Okay well my fuel gauge really does wonders. in my days of absence, when i opened the throttle properly the fuel gauge would spin violently in circles then the next day it stayed stiff no problem at all. needless to say I tried the mod anyway and from what i can see today the guage appears to be working perfectly, I fillied it up with some reallt fast drying silicone seal stuff my uncle borrowed me that turns to rock hard plastic in less than 5 minutes. I will keep riding and keep everyone posted but for now it seems fine
Ok, this is getting spooky. I did the fuel gauge Mod and it still bounces. The worst is that yesterday the bike went sick and looked like it was running out of fuel. I found that the 12volts going to the fuel sensor (red/green) goes to three items - fuel relay, Ignitor, and the fuel warning light.
I believe that if the voltage on the red/green wire drops down through a bad connection (or other) the fuel pump will deactivate thinking the tank is on reserve which eventually cuts the fuel pump unless the Reserve switch is ON. Also if the voltage on the red/green drops and the fuel is FULL the gauge is 'over sensitive' causing the gauge to react quicker (causing quick needle fluctuations)
Therefore it looks like my problem is the red/green wiring to relay and ignitor (the voltage comes from switch and the kill switch). I might add that I hot wired all other wires to gauge and sensor apart from the red/green. The sensor has been changed out and I have three fuel gauges showing same symptoms.
Keep you posted once I find out more.
I got a similar problem to Bozo I repaired the fuel gauge and thought it was working but now I see something weird. whenever the bike is full of petrol the needle is fine but when it gets to halfway until the empty line it will bounce like mad. then when it gets under the empty line until finaly empty tank its perfectly fine again. WTF ??
The other telltale that the voltage is low on the red/green wire is that the red light on the fuel reserve warning is dull, like I stated previously because the voltage goes low, the fuel pump cuts out thinking that the fuel is low therefore cutting the fuel pump but it doesn't light the red fuel light because that uses the earth through the fuel sensor separately. If the reserve switch is activated the it should prevent the fuel from cutting out.
I suspect my wiring at the junction points is breaking down (somewhere in the wiring loom, my bike was bought from a guy who left it in the rain for two years), unfortunately the voltage appears ok till the wires get resistance gradually dropping the voltage, aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I hate intermittent wiring. As soon as I find the culprit I'll let you know.
Found it, the Green/red (not red/green as previously stated) wire on the igniter just fell out the minute I touched it. Looks like most of the wires are corroded so I'll have to replace the connector. Unfortunately I pulled the bike apart to find the fault.