Someone mentioned before that it could be missing a spacer or the center spacer was missing, my boss said maybe the new wheel bearing werent all seated right.
Ive checked all these and they are all there and everything seated correctly.
I was looking at it just a few minutes ago and was looking at the axle from the rear end. The left side of the axle is more forward on the swingarm and the right side is more towards the rear of the swingarm
Now i know this is not good at all due to the fact that the wheel is slanted and would infact be pretty dangerous and tear something up and im pretty sure i know the anwser to this but want to make sure
Would this cause the wheel to not turn very well
Wouldnt be helping, probably be dragging the disk on the caliper, make riding it hard, wear the chain out ect ect
yea, i mena i havent rode it with in like this at all. But when i got it back on i didnt even get the axle fully torqued yet and its extremly hard to turn the wheel.
also i just want to clearify this too but when you tighten down the chain adjusters do you want to do this with the wheel pushed all the way forward?
Quote from: irishluck on June 26, 2011, 05:32:24 PM
also i just want to clearify this too but when you tighten down the chain adjusters do you want to do this with the wheel pushed all the way forward?
Yes mate........ start with the wheel forward and the chain slack. Tighten the adjusters evenly on both sides until you have around a 1/2 inch slack in the chain along the bottom run. Now tighten up the axle nut.
Do NOT trust the axle alignment marks on the swing-arm..... they have been known to be wrong. Use a string line on either side, starting at the front wheel (which is aimed straight ahead) and run the lines under the engine on both sides to the back end - Anchor the lines behind the back wheel with it running across the top of a couple of bricks on either side. Keep it taught and align your back wheel to it on either side.
I have also used a string line with a loop in the end when fitting a new chain (poor man's laser line). Put the bike in gear and without a chain fitted, pass the string over the top of the c/s sprocket and hook the loop onto one of the teeth at the bottom. make sure the string sits across the top of the c/s sprocket teeth as it runs toward the rear of the bike. Run it to the rear of the bike and anchor it at the back so that it is running over the top of the rear sprocket. Now stand 3 or 4 feet behind the bike and sight along the string. Even with my old eyes, its pretty easy to see if the alignment of the back wheel is off. Put a mark on the adjuster and the swing-arm on both sides when its dead straight. Now you have a starting point. Go ahead and loosten the adjusters, fit a chain and re-align using your marks as a reference. Tighten the axle and you are set.
As mentioned earlier, you may have the wheel off-set enough to have the rotor dragging on the rear pads - which will make it hard to turn.
If the back wheel is aligned correctly, then the bike will track correctly and as long as you have all the correct spacers in the correct positions, there should be no drag on the rear brake.
Is your bike at the bosses shop?
Harvy
im gona see if i can try to do that. and no the bike is here with me at home. Its just weird, i tried to realign it and did it prety damn good with the adjusters, looked pretty straight and axle lined pretty good, barely tightened the axle and still rough as hell.
Maybe ill have to try your way or maybe i have something bent on the wheel.......
okay i notices my spacer inside the rim is loose, im assuming this isnt suppose to be, it moves around on one side. Im guessing that the bearings arent seated all the way?
Do you positively have both the long spacer between the 2 bearings inside the wheel AND the shorter one that goes into the cush drive??
when you say the short one, do you mean the one that goes in the bearing that is in the sprocket?
Yes.
yea i have that in there. Now i printed off a diagram and was taking close look at it. I notices on the side where the rotor is there is another spacer of a sort that is between the bearing and the caliper mount correct? well as far as i member when i just took that tire off i never noticed a spacer there..... Found some spacer laying around that i cant member taking off anything else so im fitting it in there and gona tighten down to see what happe ns...
There ya have it! That small spacer on the rotor side usually stays in the wheel when you remove it and than falls out when you are not looking.
I think you have found your problem.
Harvy
i hope so! this wheel has had me confused, ill torque it tomorrow and let ya all know how it goes, thanks
If you had bothered to look at your workshop manual you could have saved yourself alot of time and frustration!
Isn't that always the case!
Wish my wife came with a workshop manual.
Quote from: andyb on June 27, 2011, 07:50:57 AM
Isn't that always the case!
Wish my wife came with a workshop manual.
ha
Quote from: oldktmdude on June 27, 2011, 12:13:27 AM
If you had bothered to look at your workshop manual you could have saved yourself alot of time and frustration!
(popcorn)
Apparently, saving
anyone from frustration is not of high priority on his end...
(popcorn)
Randy T
Indy
i did look in the book, im just assuming it had fallen out when not looking.
But i think the main problem was that for some reason that spacer inside the rim was extremely loose. So I took bearings back out and, cleaned spacer again and some dirt off rim and re seated them. not loose now so im assuming that was the problem.
If you took the bearings out by using hammer and drift, they are now ruined.... Pounding on the inner race drives the rollers into the face of the outer race and leaves dents. As far as I know, that is the only way to get the bearings out.....
Just to pile on, I was sorta thinking they wouldn't be too healthy after binding up either.