have the 91fj1200 finally put together. Couple questions though
1. where does the vent hose from the ignitor connect to?
2. i got the rear wheel on, i pulled the tire back as far as i could to tighten chain slack, turn both chain adjusters until slack was good, then torqued the rear wheel axle to listed specs and the wheel is very tough to spin, why is this?
3. got everything hooked up, hit the ignition and nothing. not a crank or nothing, i think i got everything hooked up from what it looks like, any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Quote from: irishluck on June 12, 2011, 10:10:58 PM
have the 91fj1200 finally put together. Couple questions though
1. where does the vent hose from the ignitor connect to?
2. i got the rear wheel on, i pulled the tire back as far as i could to tighten chain slack, turn both chain adjusters until slack was good, then torqued the rear wheel axle to listed specs and the wheel is very tough to spin, why is this?
3. got everything hooked up, hit the ignition and nothing. not a crank or nothing, i think i got everything hooked up from what it looks like, any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
1. It's not a vent, it's a vacuum line,
2. You are missing a spacer, possibly between the wheel bearings.
3. You obviously
don't have everything hooked up.
Randy T
Indy
soo where does the vacumm line connect too?
and ill check for the spacer tomorrow and same with the rest of the connections. i figured i didnt hook something up right just wanted to throw it out there
thanks for the info!
2: brake dragging? Start with the wheel forwards and pull itt back with the adjusters.
3: hook the rest up :)
1: to the no 2 vacuum port
Do yourself a big favor and buy a workshop manual! These books tell you what parts fit where and diagrams show you what parts maybe missing.
well the bike does have brand new pads on it, but only got really tight wheel i torqued the axle nut down. hmm ill give that a try, cause i just pulled the wheel back, then tighten the adjusters a half turn at a time to get it even. but yea ill try it how you said it tonight and see how that works. it should have all the required parts in the wheel. Even have brand new bearings in it too.
ha yea im gona look at that tonight :dash1:
im sorry i still have no idea where the #2 vacuum port is
i do have a manual but cant find where it tells me where to connect this hose at......
On the vacuum ports starting back to front You have the airbox or air filters (if installed) then the Carbs then the rubber elbows then the head. The Vacuum ports come out of the top of the rubber elbows all but one should have rubber caps installed and one should be open thats where your hose will go.
ok cool, thats what ill finish up tonight then, thanks.
also one more question, im assuming i have the California model since i have some canisters on the front of the bike.
do those absolutely have to be on the bike?
Nah.
Quote from: irishluck on June 13, 2011, 10:58:49 AM
well the bike does have brand new pads on it, but only got really tight wheel i torqued the axle nut down. hmm ill give that a try, cause i just pulled the wheel back, then tighten the adjusters a half turn at a time to get it even. but yea ill try it how you said it tonight and see how that works. it should have all the required parts in the wheel. Even have brand new bearings in it too.
ha yea im gona look at that tonight :dash1:
im sorry i still have no idea where the #2 vacuum port is
i do have a manual but cant find where it tells me where to connect this hose at......
There is a spacer between the wheel bearings (inside the hub) that holds them apart and prevents the rollers from being crushed into the races when the axle is torqued.... if it is missing (likely) or too short (not likely), then the wheel won't turn after torquing...
i do know for a fact that spacer is in there, cause i member f****** with that. but i wont be able to take a look at the wheel tonight as i cant get it on its centerstand=)
so anyways, the bike cranks now, didnt do anything....
Had the charger on the battery all night and tried it after work, still nothing, so i went and unplugged the coils and ignition and checked that, plugged them bk in, then went to the starter soliniod or w/e that little thing is called that connects to the battery and the starter, well there both positive, so i took a screwdriver and hit those two wires together, it cranked, well i tried the ignition again and it cranks but weakly...... dont understand how that worked but ya
you know that the starter works,see how many volt you have at the battery whille you jump the starter rellay.Hook up the meter so you can watch it when you jump the rellay posts.All this does is tell you volts at the starter or lack of volts.Remove the rear brake caliper and see if the wheel turns :yahoo:
alright, will do this tonight and will get bk to ya guys, thanks
well the weirdest thing, it cranks fine now and the only thing i did was unplug the coild and plug them back in, along with the ignition. And then i jumped the starter soliniod with the screw driver. Works fine now.
Starter is getting 9v. Battery has 11.3v. The turn signals and things werernt working until i figured out that all 4 of them have to be plugged in to work :dash2:
Lights work and all!
So idk if any of you member the problem i was having when i switched the plug wires and hard a glanching noise?
I tried turning it over and about 5 seconds into the process of cranking i hear a clank
Well i took all the plugs out to listen to it a little better, i crank it over for a good 20 seconds, nothing. i tested to make sure my piston rods didnt bust so stuck screwdriver in plug port and all pistons move and all. No noise, timing is in line. Dont know why it would clank every now and then? Any ideas?
You need a new battery imo.Or its discharged.11.3 volts at the battery and 9 volts at the starter is not enough.
FS got it.... 9V cranking is a sign of a bad or discharged battery. Charge it up and recheck the voltages, if it still drops to 9V, the battery is toast. With a good battery, you probably won't get any wierd noises...
well let me explain that a little better. I mean it cranks, slowly..... which is prolly a deadish battery cause its new. But the noise is coming from the crank case...... that really be a low battery doing that?
Try cleaning the carbs.
DavidR.
well right now the carbs arent apart of this, I dont even have the tank on yet, im still finishing up some other parts. i was just testing to make sure i got all connections hooked up right when it didnt crank the first time. But it cranks now. But im not trying to start it just yet, just making sure i have everything hooked up before i move to the next step :good2: