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I am doing an 02 FZ1 rear mod similar to what Frank Moore did. I need to hear from anyone who has done this mod and whether the cush drive needed any material removed....if so how much. The other question has to do with a new rear shock. Any suggestions on a good replacement shock for the 89/90 oem shock?
Kevin  

Quote from: CanDman on June 07, 2011, 08:15:07 PM
I am doing an 02 FZ1 rear mod similar to what Frank Moore did. I need to hear from anyone who has done this mod and whether the cush drive needed any material removed....if so how much. The other question has to do with a new rear shock. Any suggestions on a good replacement shock for the 89/90 oem shock?
Kevin  

Kevin, I did the whole 2002 FZ1 rear end swap. If you are using the complete FZ1 set-up (arm, complete wheel, brake stay and calliper/calliper hanger) there is no machining required to the wheel assembly. The only machining is to the arm pivot, which requires approximately 2mm removed from either side - measure it to make sure you get it right as there may be a difference between your gen 3 and my gen 4 requirements. You will need to buy a banjo bolt with hydraulic light switch to replace the mechanical light switch for clearance and also a Honda VF1000R countershaft sprocket and you should be able to get the chain to line up by machining the outside face of the sprocket flush. You will still be able to use the locking ring and nut. I also flipped the rear sprocket - though some have not needed to do this.

I can't help with your shock as they are also different between the gen 3 and gen 4.

I am going to a Penske in the near future. Frank can probably help you with the requirements for the gen 3 set-up.

Harvy

Harvy gave you the gist of it... no machining required except to the swingarm pivot.


Penske is the shock i run and the shock i recommend.

traxxion dynamics handles them on the east coast.


KOokaloo!

Harvy....I want to thank you for your help........one thing that I should probably mention...is that I am doing the FZ1 front and the Thunderace rear.......I have both 02 FZ1 rims......02 R1 brakes...I have the thunderace front axle pin in order to use the speedo hub and cable with my 85...the Thunderace was the only 22 mm speedo hub.....it'll be fun making all this work.....and I couldn't do it without so many great people here. I have the Thunderace and FZ1 rear axle pin so I am hoping one of them will be the ticket....I will keep you posted but thanks again Harv for your help......as for the relay arm linkage...Marc Rittner has the complete package so I will get that off him soon but thank you for your kndness in offering me yours.
Kev

Quote from: Harvy on June 07, 2011, 09:15:36 PM

Quote from: CanDman on June 07, 2011, 08:15:07 PM
I am doing an 02 FZ1 rear mod similar to what Frank Moore did. I need to hear from anyone who has done this mod and whether the cush drive needed any material removed....if so how much. The other question has to do with a new rear shock. Any suggestions on a good replacement shock for the 89/90 oem shock?
Kevin  

Kevin, I did the whole 2002 FZ1 rear end swap. If you are using the complete FZ1 set-up (arm, complete wheel, brake stay and calliper/calliper hanger) there is no machining required to the wheel assembly. The only machining is to the arm pivot, which requires approximately 2mm removed from either side - measure it to make sure you get it right as there may be a difference between your gen 3 and my gen 4 requirements. You will need to buy a banjo bolt with hydraulic light switch to replace the mechanical light switch for clearance and also a Honda VF1000R countershaft sprocket and you should be able to get the chain to line up by machining the outside face of the sprocket flush. You will still be able to use the locking ring and nut. I also flipped the rear sprocket - though some have not needed to do this.

I can't help with your shock as they are also different between the gen 3 and gen 4.

I am going to a Penske in the near future. Frank can probably help you with the requirements for the gen 3 set-up.

Harvy

Quote from: racerman_27410 on June 07, 2011, 09:30:02 PM
Harvy gave you the gist of it... no machining required except to the swingarm pivot.


Penske is the shock i run and the shock i recommend.

traxxion dynamics handles them on the east coast.


KOokaloo!

Hey Kookaloo......you are also a good man.....thanks for your input.......I will keep an eye out for a Penske......according to Pat Conlon......I need the shock that is the same size or smaller than the 89/90 FJ 1200....and it needs to have the cleavis type lower mount.........can you tell me which Penske shock you used.....there seems to be quite a variety listed on ebay.
Kev

Quote from: CanDman on June 07, 2011, 11:04:15 PM
Harvy....I want to thank you for your help........one thing that I should probably mention...is that I am doing the FZ1 front and the Thunderace rear.......I have both 02 FZ1 rims......02 R1 brakes...I have the thunderace front axle pin in order to use the speedo hub and cable with my 85...the Thunderace was the only 22 mm speedo hub.....it'll be fun making all this work.....and I couldn't do it without so many great people here. I have the Thunderace and FZ1 rear axle pin so I am hoping one of them will be the ticket....I will keep you posted but thanks again Harv for your help......as for the relay arm linkage...Marc Rittner has the complete package so I will get that off him soon but thank you for your kndness in offering me yours.
Kev

No worries Kevin.

When you say you have front Thunderace axle pin.... is that for the FZ1 front wheel?...... I may be wrong but I doubt you can solve the speedo drive problem like that.......you would need a Thunderace front wheel as well I believe.
Or am I not understanding you correctly.

Harvy

I know it sounds out there......but the diameters of both wheels are the same...22 mm....the difference is the lengths of the 2 pins....the thunderace is 1 inch longer......I am sure thats because of the speedo driveassembly.......so I am planning to use all the components from the Thunderace front axle pin.......the clutch meter and retainer....bearings....collars and seals...etc.......no reason why it won't work......I will let you know how it turns out....Kev

Kev, the speedo drive housing is the problem......there is no lug on the FZ1 fork leg to prevent it from rotating.

Harvy

 LOL.........you are right :flag_of_truce:........but I am a stubborn man and am determined to make it happen. What I will try to do....is cut a slot in the  FZ1 rim for the clutch meter to slide into and once I find the desired position for the hub, I will tac weld a metal slot for the gear unit to remain stationary on the forks. I won't know until I start to tinker around....lol.......I think that that is half the fun of mods.....trying to make it work (popcorn).....would be great to make it happen......." If there's a Will.......there's a dead person"...... :hang1:....but I think you're the man Harv.....and thx for your excellent observations.......
Kev

If you have the skills, or know someone that can do top notch welding on the fork leg.....go for it.

Unfortunately, my welding skill only extend to stick welding on steel.....lol

My solution to the speedo problem was the same as Franks....... An Acwell digital dash.

Hope to see some photos of your progression with the mods.

Cheers
Harvy

Thx Harv......I will keep the mod pics coming.....I have alot of learning still ahead of me :mail1:....but I have no shortage of imagination........lol......that doesn't mean it will lead anywhere.......just keeps me awake at night for those couple of stragglers to jump the fence.......bahahhaahahaaha.....and that's my best sheep impersonation.... :wacko3:....the first thing I did was build my own version of the crobin seat......I cut the ass off an 82 seca turbo and fused it to my OEM seat......came out rather nicely I must say....I was very happy with the way it turned out.........next step is the front and rear mod.......I may pick your brain if I hit a snare.....lol.. :drinks:..... a couple of Fosters......mmm  mmmmm

Quote from: CanDman on June 08, 2011, 11:07:23 PM

I have no shortage of imagination........

that, my friend, is the right thing for a pioneering modifier to say.

as my Dear Grandma used to tell me.... " you can do anything if you just try"

keep us updated.  :good2:

KOokaloo!

BTW i run a 8981 Penske but a properly valved and sprung sport shock will give you the same results without the adjustability (i have not touched the adjusters on mine in years)

Hey you big KOOOOOOOK... :good2: thx for the encouragement......it can be a challenge for some of the Older members to tolerate the enthusiasm and smetimes ignorance of us newbies.......but I see that  I have graduated to jr. member......   :praising:. Thx for the good word.......By the ...what year is your FJ? Kev

my FJ started out as an 86 model.

2001 FZ1 front and rear ends

2005  XJR crate engine (punched to 1350 with lightened crank, cams, valves etc)



KOokaloo!  :good2:

that sounds pretty rad......I like.....the reason I ask....is because when I looked up that 8981 Penske shock, I noticed that it did not have the cleavis type lower mount but the "I" type lower mount.....how did you make that work?Pat was pretty adamant about this detail........said that the swingarm mod won't happen unless I have the right type and sized shock.
Kev 

Thats a snap (well realy a bolt on) Just order up a lower fork end from Penske for a FZ1, it screws right into the shock.

TQMX1......thx for the help.........wow.... :praising:

Hey Harv...............this is going to be the mod of the ages......hehehehe.. :sarcastic:.......it is extreme to say the least...but I am stubborn !!!!! The solution.......after hours of  :dash2:......and more... :dash2:.....(and I beleive it is the only one)........is to bore the hub into the bottom of the fork.....and if I am correct.....it will be perfect.....and I can use the FZ1 axle pin....in fact I have to........if I tried the Thunderace the axle pin but the calipers won't line up.......so....after much studying  :mail1:....and a bit of going nuts :crazy:....Im pretty sure it will work. The hardware for the Thunderace actually will work beautifully. I need to cut off the chunky end of the collar from the FZ1 and tuck it into the oil seal.....need to leave it above the rubber seal by maybe 2-3 mm. Then I will cut 2 notches at 180 degrees of each other and then press the clutch meter into and against the rubber oil seal. Here's where the fun begins..!!! I will take a drill and bore a 15mm hole @ 90 degrees at the very bottom of the left fork until I reach the back of the pilot hole(where the bottom screw goes int the bottom of the shock. Then I will lay the fork on its side and drill a 47mm hole into the fork aprox.15-18mm(and stop it at the edge of the pilot hole). I will notch out a key hole for the top of the speedo hub to grab and clean up the first 15mm drill hole for the cable arm to rest into. Once the bore is made I will take some JB weld and press the speedo hub right into the bore.Once it is set in the fork perminately...I wil clean it up and spray it to match the fork......you'll never see it. Once that is done I will just have to place the clutch retainer on top of the clutch meter and throw the axle pin in.....I will take some photos but I am happy with this solution :drinks:I hope it will work ..lol....Kev     

Quote from: CanDman on June 09, 2011, 08:58:45 PM
Hey Harv...............this is going to be the mod of the ages......hehehehe.. :sarcastic:.......it is extreme to say the least...but I am stubborn !!!!! The solution.......after hours of  :dash2:......and more... :dash2:.....(and I beleive it is the only one)........is to bore the hub into the bottom of the fork.....and if I am correct.....it will be perfect.....and I can use the FZ1 axle pin....in fact I have to........if I tried the Thunderace the axle pin but the calipers won't line up.......so....after much studying  :mail1:....and a bit of going nuts :crazy:....Im pretty sure it will work. The hardware for the Thunderace actually will work beautifully. I need to cut off the chunky end of the collar from the FZ1 and tuck it into the oil seal.....need to leave it above the rubber seal by maybe 2-3 mm. Then I will cut 2 notches at 180 degrees of each other and then press the clutch meter into and against the rubber oil seal. Here's where the fun begins..!!! I will take a drill and bore a 15mm hole @ 90 degrees at the very bottom of the left fork until I reach the back of the pilot hole(where the bottom screw goes int the bottom of the shock. Then I will lay the fork on its side and drill a 47mm hole into the fork aprox.15-18mm(and stop it at the edge of the pilot hole). I will notch out a key hole for the top of the speedo hub to grab and clean up the first 15mm drill hole for the cable arm to rest into. Once the bore is made I will take some JB weld and press the speedo hub right into the bore.Once it is set in the fork perminately...I wil clean it up and spray it to match the fork......you'll never see it. Once that is done I will just have to place the clutch retainer on top of the clutch meter and throw the axle pin in.....I will take some photos but I am happy with this solution :drinks:I hope it will work ..lol....Kev     

Kev, I think I understand what you are saying- if it works more power to ya! The mounting of the drive mechanism in the wheel should be good.

I'm afraid you have more faith in JB weld than I!
The idea of drilling holes in fork legs sends shivers up my spine....lol (not so much from a strength angle - but if it decides to leak, your are going to have fork oil all over a brake rotor - not my idea of fun)

Keep us posted mate.

Harvy

.........I hear you.....but I am pretty confident that where I will be boring is at the very bottom of the left fork....the meatiest part......and I will only cut into it about a half an inch (max).....at the very bottom......the speedo hub and the axle hole will be lined up.....far below the shock resevior where the oil is. I will actualy shape the bore perfectly with the outer mold of the speedo hub and it will sit right in it...if I cut it right ,I won't need to weld anything.....the axle pin will everything in place......The JB weld is more for filling in any spaces and give it a little more perminant setting......it will be a challenge...but if it works....I will be a happy man. I will keep a photo journal of the proccess.....Kev