Gday folks. Heard a tick tick tick coming from front end so I got keen and stripped out front wheel bearings .( Prehistoric grease in there!!!) and cleaned stripped and relubed bearings.... while i was there I noticed my front brakes were dragging..... out with the pads and a good clean round the piston on all sides as they all were quite dirty... got em back to sparkly shiny clean but this has not fixed the problem.... Right hand side calliper is not returning fully..... sorta scratchin my head wondering why.... to my knowledge and understanding the only thing s that could prevent the return of the piston are dirty piston, failed seal or a blocked gallery, whacked fresh fluid through a few days ago and bled the system, cant see any fluid round the piston to indicate a failed seal...... :scratch_one-s_head: any ideas?
You know, I'm getting the same sound from my front end. It started about a week ago. I'm not certain, but something tells me it has something to do with the speedometer gear. Hopefully someone here knows a bit more about this than I do.
yes its primitive in there.... greased all up and around through where the speedo drive sits. My bearings are flogged ... getting new set tomorrow, should be kind and get new seals as well.gone from curious to interesting now.... think my tension wrench is out... cant see how its a torsion arm type... but its 50 ft pound makes my front wheel nip up and puts too much load on the bearings.... so thats one thing .... my brakes are still not returning (dragging) and now I'm down on pressure..... lever all the way back to the bars.... have bled it and am re bleeding after a sit for a bit. Been one of those weeks :crazy:
all good now just still a bit tight. goin to take her for a spin tomorrow and see whats what. lots o bubbles all gone now .... bit of air in the system....
also pays to leave the freakin key in the off position to prevent flat battery. :dash2:
Couple of thoughts (all I have :-),
How tight your front axle is should not cause your wheel drag. Are the bearings fully seated? Is the center spacer in place? Tension on the axle should not put any pressure on the bearings other than a clamping force on the inner race(s)
With your dragging brake piston(s) - you could take the caliper off, clean the exposed part of the piston, and press the pistons back into the fully retracted position. This should reseat the seals so that they then retract the pistons a bit more providing clearance.
Arnie
Quote from: Kopfjaeger on May 15, 2011, 02:07:23 AM
.... think my tension wrench is out... cant see how its a torsion arm type... but its 50 ft pound makes my front wheel nip up and puts too much load on the bearings.... so thats one thing .... my brakes are still not returning (dragging)
Quote from: Kopfjaeger on May 15, 2011, 02:07:23 AM
yes its primitive in there.... greased all up and around through where the speedo drive sits. My bearings are flogged ... getting new set tomorrow, should be kind and get new seals as well.gone from curious to interesting now.... think my tension wrench is out... cant see how its a torsion arm type... but its 50 ft pound makes my front wheel nip up and puts too much load on the bearings.... so thats one thing .... my brakes are still not returning (dragging) and now I'm down on pressure..... lever all the way back to the bars.... have bled it and am re bleeding after a sit for a bit. Been one of those weeks :crazy:
This is not from too much torque.... Either your missing the spacer that fits between the bearing inner races, or the bearings aren't fully seated. The spacer keeps the races from being pulled in and binding....
thanks guys. yeah got all the spacers.... have pics but hunting for usb cable., order from r - l is nut... washer... spacer... seal ...bearing... spacer... bearing... speedo drive...speedo drive retainer...seal... speedo drive unit....bolt. seated the bearings ... took all weekend just taking my time making sure things are right!!.... i did pump each piston calliper out and cleaned with 1800 grade wet dry and brake fluid.... wiped well clean,then got paranoid and did it alllll again JUST TO MAKE SURE!! lol and then seated them all back into their respective housings, bled the brakes again last night got all the air out. It may just be a case of me overworrying, just cant seem to remember any other bikes i have had having the brakes feel like this. Find out in a few hours,battery on charge... just tried to push start it... must give up smoking!!!! thanks again. :good2:
Are you still using the original brake lines?
Randy T
Indy
Yeah its all bog stock standard Randy...chuckles... 25 yr old everything as far as i can see.... feels good, probably a bit of air still in lines as it feels a bit spongy still... look at that tomorrow...( later today...) think it was just a case of me being a marvin (paranoid android) thanks again for input fella's. As soon as i find that blasted USB cable i will post up and show you what i had done and how it looked.
Quote from: Kopfjaeger on May 16, 2011, 09:39:45 AM
Yeah its all bog stock standard Randy...chuckles... 25 yr old everything as far as i can see.... feels good, probably a bit of air still in lines as it feels a bit spongy still... look at that tomorrow...( later today...) think it was just a case of me being a marvin (paranoid android) thanks again for input fella's. As soon as i find that blasted USB cable i will post up and show you what i had done and how it looked.
At least some of the sponginess you are feeling is likely those 25 year old rubber brake lines expanding.
Do yourself a favor and replace them before one of them fails at a very inopportune time.
Randy T
Indy
Quote from: rktmanfj on May 16, 2011, 09:57:24 AM
Quote from: Kopfjaeger on May 16, 2011, 09:39:45 AM
Yeah its all bog stock standard Randy...chuckles... 25 yr old everything as far as i can see.... feels good, probably a bit of air still in lines as it feels a bit spongy still... look at that tomorrow...( later today...) think it was just a case of me being a marvin (paranoid android) thanks again for input fella's. As soon as i find that blasted USB cable i will post up and show you what i had done and how it looked.
At least some of the sponginess you are feeling is likely those 25 year old rubber brake lines expanding.
Do yourself a favor and replace them before one of them fails at a very inopportune time.
Randy T
Indy
Those brake hoses expanded when new :shok: :scratch_one-s_head:
They are for the guy that doesn't really use his front brakes, it idiot proofs that lever for him.
(or at least should)
Bob W
Old brake hoses can fall apart inside and create a one-way check valve effect, holding pressure on the brakes. I just changed a hose on my car that was doing this (after changing the caliper). Try opening the bleeder while the brakes are dragging and see if there's a difference. Maybe not while riding.
Ok cool. Makes sense. Was thinking along the similar lines that the hoses had broken down and some gunk had gone and slightly blocked a gallery, figured a good flush will help to fix that.... and yeah Bob W... I'm still a back braker :rofl: but you'd all be pleased that your information on using fronts has lead me down this path.... I'm getting used to it.... have definatly noticed that on approach to corners both brakes are nice to use...( as opposed to rear brake and gears ..) but yeah... doesn't like it when I grab ( squeeze) the fronts mid corner.... used to read all your guys posts about it standing up in corners and thinking... mine doesn't do that!!! .... does now!!!!... so long as it works now, braided lines will have to wait.....got to get a header pipe for Gsx e and funnily enough completely overhaul the front and rear brakes on it as I intend to get it rego'd and take the mighty mighty FJ off the road and give her a full going over.... she s a bit sad and getting slowly worse. Planning on going over pistons rings valves and that bloody primary chain!!:rofl: basic top end rebuild and then some.
thanks again
While Im on the subject of front end my bike has gone eskimo and blown my fork seals. R/H one leaking pretty badly.... what size ( if anyone can help that is) is the hex to hold the damper rod while you undo the bottom bolt? is it a hex or a spline... due to time restrictions (need it for work) getting allllllll the stuff together before removal.
cheers in advance.
neil
12 mm.I just bought one for my forks.They are sweet now.I am going to rebuild the front forks on the 86 as well now I know how to do it.
The internal hex socket is 27mm. The head of a 3/4" bolt happens to be 27mm (1 1/8) so you can use that welded to a rod.
Check with Randy for a repair kit with seals, metals, and dust covers.
Arnie
Quote from: Kopfjaeger on May 19, 2011, 07:43:15 PM
While Im on the subject of front end my bike has gone eskimo and blown my fork seals. R/H one leaking pretty badly.... what size ( if anyone can help that is) is the hex to hold the damper rod while you undo the bottom bolt? is it a hex or a spline... due to time restrictions (need it for work) getting allllllll the stuff together before removal.
cheers in advance.
neil
I used a broom handle last time I did mine.... Just stick the end in the damper rod, put the other end on the floor and put pressure on the whole thing, while using a 10mm allen to break the damper bolt loose.
If you have access to an impact gun you can usually undo the retaining bolts without holding the damper rod. When re assembling, it helps to secure the damper rod just to make sure you have enough tension on the retaining bolt. Regards, Pete.
:good2: Thank you! Got the 27 mm one sorted Arnie, and I have done the broom handle trick before but that was on a DT175, didn't know if the FJ was going to be more difficult. For the record there are very noticeable handling differences!!!! Thinking it would be a good idea to get hoses, seals and bearings, pads and brake seals and do it alllll at once.
thanks again
neil
OK. After being with flu for a week and ordering the parts on Tuesday, got the front forks done... just bumbling slowly through it... something about work being a timid animal... Got Pictures to show, RH fork was easy as to get out and undo, seal popped out no worries... as you will see the damping rod had a burr on the lower end where the retaining bolt goes into it, I dressed it back and cleaned and washed and reassembled. I found reassembly easy? and this concerns me as it surely cant be that easy. Once I had the fork leg apart I removed the upper from the triple clamps, removed seals, spacers,bushes etc, cleaned, reassembled, Used a bit of rubber grease to aid the seal on, slid the damping rod and spring through the fork leg upper, put the funky aluminium cap with its thrust washers in place, ( it states in the manual that i should have 2 other flat washers, but when i removed all this , all i got was 2 thrust washers....),line up notch in damping rod end to spigot in lower fork leg, slid fork leg upper into fork leg lower, insert Special tool No. 2 ( Broom handle). make sure damping rod is on spigot and tighten bolt into damping rod. Done. Still tinkering away, havn't decided wether to put Loctite on the damping rod retaining bolts or if a good clean and a run over with a die nut and set to tension will do. Included in the pics are my front fork special tool. :good2:
High tide marks. part of my clunk was the horn bottoming out on the mud gaurd.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/546_27_05_11_5_23_26.jpeg)
Undone.Hope you like my budget bike stand.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/546_27_05_11_5_26_39.jpeg)
The culprit.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/546_27_05_11_5_28_28.jpeg)
Bits
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/546_27_05_11_5_31_20.jpeg)
Damping rod burr. LH side was way worse almost all the way round.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/546_27_05_11_5_33_35.jpeg)
SPECIAL TOOL!!!!!!!
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/546_27_05_11_5_35_46.jpeg)
Thanks for your advice fella's. Moving slowly onto my brakes now, got the new seal kits for them. Must be coffee time first but!!! :good2:
I've seen that burr before, it comes from NOT lining the locating notch up with the locating screw.....
Yeah its funny hey? All the while I have been bitching about not having a rattlegun or an air compressor, I'm observing what happens (potentially) if you rush things and perhaps use BFI instead. still having trouble with LH fork, isnt seating right, don't want to pop the seal and check in there because I'm thinking it will destroy the seal, trying broom handle and wieght and see how we end up, have cleaned the thread and moved things round and felt things out. in no rush.
Allright got it together. The LH damper rod didn't want to seat on its notch, on closer inspection ( and some bearing blue) established the tip of the stub had sheared off, so loctite on the bolt, got it seated and got to tension. Oil in forks, no leaks really firm, in a good way. Brakes still dragging, with the callipers off the wheel spins fairly freely, noticed that the LH side calliper inner piston was extended more than the outer. pumped the inner all the way out and cleaned it and then pumped the outer piston out and cleaned it and pumped it back in. With just the LH calliper on, the wheel has a little drag on it, but no where near as firm as it was, was unable to turn the wheel backwards with out major effort before, and now it feels like they are juuuuuust dragging a little bit, nowhere near as bad, did the same to the RH side, feels pretty good going to leave it now, been looking at it and tinkering away for two days on it now. Might go for a spin tommorrow, weather and enthusiasm ensuing.
One side out more than the other.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/546_28_05_11_2_21_03.jpeg)
Pumping out Piston.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/546_28_05_11_2_27_14.jpeg)
Dirty?
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/546_28_05_11_2_29_51.jpeg)
Clean!
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/546_28_05_11_2_32_04.jpeg)
Cheers.