Hey guys I was hoping you could give me some tips with a problem....
Got an 85 1100 and when its cold and I start it on the choke it'll run for about 15 seconds then it dies. So I have to just sit there holding the throttle slightly open for a few minutes so itll idle. It gets a bit annoying.
Its got 4 into 1 exhaust but I don't know if its been retuned for it
Cheers
Kev
i know mine doesnt do what has been stated on choke... as in starts at about 2 grand then goes up from there..... but i think my choke return spring is a bit funky.....but mine doesnt die... just drops to about 6 -700 rpm and then i usually just ride off drop the choke and then let it warm up riding....is it flooding up kev ? have you pulled the plugs to see if they are petrolly? not a whiz at diagnostics but i imagine the next questions will be check the plugs and possibly something to do with the idle circuit/carburettors and checking to see if your choke is functioning correctly... return spring, opening all the way or a blockage......im sure someone will enlighten yourself and myself... will be watching cos i think its time i got serious about a bit of carb work........
Will it idle with the choke off? The easy answer is turn the choke off, then, ya?
Has a pipe, unknown carb jetting.... What odds those carbs need at least a little cleaning/inspection time? Pop em off, read the bible (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=655.0), and get the gunk out. While you're in there, keep your peepers open for signs of bustedness and buggery. And write down the size of the jets you find, the float height, the idle mixture screw's setting, and the needle height (clip position and any washers that may be involved).
However I kinda wonder if the choke is actually actuating properly. With the tank off (and airbox if you've got one), you can see where the choke cable is routed. Pull on your knob..er... pull on your choke knob and you should see about a foot's worth of metal jump sideways. If it doesn't move each of the little clips screwed to it the same distance, or if there's a lot of movement left, or if your knob does nothing for half of the pulling (.......) then you can better figure out what needs to change to make things go again.
:rofl:.....nice andy nice....
It's just one of those days. Don't ask.
I am on my 3rd FJ1100 now, they have all done what you describe, I think its related to how you start it, experiment, choke first then throttle & vise versa,
no throttle & choke ????
I am not a warm up before ride type, I warm up with a slow/easy ride, so dont use a lot of choke, but I do know that they have all done what you have said.
Because I now collect & show my Fj's, they dont get riden much, I do run them in the shed, & the 1100 will start & idle up if started a certain way,
now you ask, I will test it & see which way it is. :scratch_one-s_head:
Quote from: andyb on April 27, 2011, 08:05:09 AM
Will it idle with the choke off? The easy answer is turn the choke off, then, ya?
Has a pipe, unknown carb jetting.... What odds those carbs need at least a little cleaning/inspection time? Pop em off, read the bible (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=655.0), and get the gunk out. While you're in there, keep your peepers open for signs of bustedness and buggery. And write down the size of the jets you find, the float height, the idle mixture screw's setting, and the needle height (clip position and any washers that may be involved).
However I kinda wonder if the choke is actually actuating properly. With the tank off (and airbox if you've got one), you can see where the choke cable is routed. Pull on your knob..er... pull on your choke knob and you should see about a foot's worth of metal jump sideways. If it doesn't move each of the little clips screwed to it the same distance, or if there's a lot of movement left, or if your knob does nothing for half of the pulling (.......) then you can better figure out what needs to change to make things go again.
Yea the chokes connected and looks like it actuates properly. I was thinkin it may be rich but not sure. Looks like it blows a bit of fuel when I give it a rev. I was gunna check the plugs last night but realised I'd grabbed the wrong spark plug tool. I'll give that a check when I get home.
Also, when if got it warm enough that it will idle, if I give it a sharp rev and let it drop right off dies then too..... I'm guessing its related
sounds like a sticky beak inside the carbs for you then kev..... probably just a bit gunky.
Fun.....
Thanks though guys your awesome :good2:
Quote from: Kopfjaeger on April 27, 2011, 05:05:11 PM
sounds like a sticky beak inside the carbs for you then kev..... probably just a bit gunky.
Quick update....
I've been pulling the carbs down over the last few days. They are a little grimey, when I pulled the float bowls off there was about 3-4mm of muck in the bottom blocking the drain hole (no wonder they wouldn't drain).
I did find out the main jet is a 112.5 though. Haven't get any further than that
Covered in muck
Kev
Honestly, don't make two changes at once. Get things cleaned up and then see how it runs. Really filthy carbs throw the jetting off significantly (which is why things run all crappy). It'll run quite a lot differently than it did! Only then can you start diagnosing changing jetting.