Hi FJ's
It's time to change oil.
Noticed there are unbranded oils (same brand as the store) and they get 2 to 3 times cheaper than known market brands.
Do you trust these oils?
i dont know. im stuck at the moment running a 15w/50.prefer around the 20-25w/50. cheapest oil i have used is motul 1000.doesnt seem to last as long as shell oils, find i have to change it earlier. IMO i would only use cheap oil as a flush after a build or as a clean out.but maybe im not the right person to ask i still get the irrates when i just cant get normal straight mineral oil, i dont want additives i just want oil, dont want friction modifiers, anti frothing agents, super duper slippery you beaut additives. but some people are different. :scratch_one-s_head:
Quote from: las1200 on February 19, 2011, 03:25:11 PM
Hi FJ's
It's time to change oil.
Noticed there are unbranded oils (same brand as the store) and they get 2 to 3 times cheaper than known market brands.
Do you trust these oils?
Another oil thread......Run for the hills!!!!! The feces is gonna hit the air recirculating device now!!! :bomb:
The FJ is old tech So use old tech oil.
Wrong answer. Use good synthetic (like Amsoil) and a good spin-on oil filter (like Amsoil).
Newer oil withstands heat better, lasts longer, lubricates better and will make your FJ last longer. Or use the old Sh$*. Your choice.
Quote from: Kopfjaeger on February 19, 2011, 04:31:02 PM
......but maybe im not the right person to ask i still get the irrates when i just cant get normal straight mineral oil, i dont want additives i just want oil, dont want friction modifiers, anti frothing agents, super duper slippery you beaut additives. but some people are different. :scratch_one-s_head:
You are not suggesting running a straight weight oil in your FJ are you? (popcorn)
after having a slipping clutch in my GPz due to additives in the oil... and stripping out the clutch and soaking the fibre plates in methylated spirit to remove the additives... and flushing the engine.. each to their own.I'm not big noting myself or saying i know it all or anything like that... but i try to run a 20/50 mineral oil, or atm a 15w/50. ive not had any issues..... but as i said... im not big noting or saying i know all... it is just that i have not had any problems, like what i have had with oils that contain additives.i kinda like to think of it as like.... ummm... condoms? some like ribbed some like french ticklers, some are selfish and turn em inside out so they get all the enjoyment.but they all do the job. but i guess to answer the question posted? i wouldnt use cheap oil. :good2:
Hmmm ok got me thinking and now i cant sleep Pat!!!! chuckles... that and its hot as buggery here and sticky as humidity wise... but!!!! http://www.mobil.com/australia-english/lcw/audiences/synthetic_v_mineral.asp (http://www.mobil.com/australia-english/lcw/audiences/synthetic_v_mineral.asp) interesting read... and I see your point....but as I mentioned I have been jaded due to the clutch on my old GPz. It wasnt like i took it out, polished it or anything... just changed oil and filter, tried new oil.... just went bad...took a lot of work and time to get it all out... and I'm a stubborn bugger sometimes.... so dont particularly feel like doing all that again... that and my Effy is the only form of transport i have.. don't have a cagers licence at all.... so cant afford to have it off the road! And something I just looked up in the manual.... it doesnt denote using a synthetic or semi synthetic... just an SAE 20w50 SE or SF grade... and from what i can gather F is better then E, G is better than F....etc etc... I'm eyeing the humble pie.... but i ain't eating it yet.!!!
Cheers
neil
Oils break down over time, and modern oils (synth particularly) resists that better. Of course, the modern oil filter is only good for so long, so change it often anyhow.
Clutch slip from synthetic oils is often not totally true, it means that either the clutch was borderline in the first place or that you're making slightly more power and causing more slippage. Either way the oil takes the blame.
So long as it's not filthy and you have enough of it, you're fine no matter what type you use.
Do you have a Walmart in Portugal or something like it. Although I haven't tried it yet I have friends that swear by Shell Rotella semi synthetic. I picked this up for about twelve U.S. Dollars.
(http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/5986/shellzn.jpg)
I use 10/40 semi-synth diesel oil, no particular brand just whatever the supermarket is flogging cheap at the time. Don't get clutch slip except under the most extreme,deliberately induced (for testing purposes) provocation,and my engine is sweet/as new looking cams etc etc. However.... I do (and always have with all the bikes I've had) change the oil at 1500m max,along with a new filter. Maybe I should be looking at different oil if those intervals were appreciably bigger,but as it is I'm happy with cheap stuff. Can't say I've ever seen Rotella here in the UK,but then I haven't looked very hard. Perhaps it's branded under another name,here?
Now I see oil is hot subject! (popcorn)
Oil's here are quite pricier than in US.
Here I find 1gal Shell or Castrol synth for 60-90euros!
Unbanded synth for 20euros 1gal.
That's my question. Branded or not.
Quote from: las1200 on February 20, 2011, 11:33:14 AM
Now I see oil is hot subject! (popcorn)
Oil's here are quite pricier than in US.
Here I find 1gal Shell or Castrol synth for 60-90euros!
Unbanded synth for 20euros 1gal.
That's my question. Branded or not.
My vote would be for UNbranded as long as the relevant ratings are specified.
While I'm not going to argue that Amsoil or other semi-exotic boutique oils are not better than no-brand oil, I've found that old-fashioned standard dead dinosaurs works just fine with minimal engine wear if changed every 3000mi (5000kms). There are a lot of high milage FJ's here (including mine) and many of them use standard oil with no problems.
I've noticed that none of the manufacturers require "super-synth" oil, nor do they extend the change interval or warranty if you do use it.
I guess that if you're planning to keep your FJ without rebuilding it for 300,000kms or more, you might want to consider paying for the fancy 'snake' oil.
Cheers,
Arnie
well put arnie.
+2 :good:
"you get what ya paid for " :blum1:
Just to throw a wrench is this thread , don't you guys know the fj makes more horsepower with a good oil and better mpg. (popcorn)
That makes sense,so if you can run a quality oil with no clutch slip it would be worth it for the extra mpg or mph.Gas prices are going up good oil will give you better mpg as long as you dont twist the throttle to much.
Quote from: Mark Olson on February 24, 2011, 12:42:29 PM
"you get what ya paid for " :blum1:
Just to throw a wrench is this thread , don't you guys know the fj makes more horsepower with a good oil and better mpg. (popcorn)
Mark, How do you know? Have you put your bike on a Dyno and made back to back pulls with one brand of oil and then another, or is it all just wishfull thinking. From what I have seen there are a lot of things that make a bigger difference ( like ignition/cam timing and carb set up) than oil will ever make.
With 3000mile changes the high price spread is a waste of $$$
Chevron Dello 15/40 here :good2:
One should go to the Bible to find such answers, http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html (http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html)
Quote from: tqmx1 on February 24, 2011, 02:34:08 PM
Quote from: Mark Olson on February 24, 2011, 12:42:29 PM
"you get what ya paid for " :blum1:
Just to throw a wrench is this thread , don't you guys know the fj makes more horsepower with a good oil and better mpg. (popcorn)
Mark, How do you know? Have you put your bike on a Dyno and made back to back pulls with one brand of oil and then another, or is it all just wishfull thinking. From what I have seen there are a lot of things that make a bigger difference ( like ignition/cam timing and carb set up) than oil will ever make.
With 3000mile changes the high price spread is a waste of $$$
Chevron Dello 15/40 here :good2:
Shun the non-believer , shuuuuunnnnnn. :diablo:
Quote from: Mark Olson on February 26, 2011, 12:08:32 AM
Shun the non-believer , shuuuuunnnnnn.
Oh crap, they stole my liver!
I ran it once last summer, 10-40 for a bit less than 6K miles OCI. It was a very good oil, but I can get Amsoil for less money with my discount, and it certainly wasn't any better than Amsoil's 10-40 motorcycle oil so I felt no need to keep on using it.
As for using dyno oil I must say that good dyno oil has never been better than they are today in terms of capability over varied conditions. But synthetics excel under extreme conditions, to a level that can't be matched by dyno oils. And there are few environments that are harder on oil than a high revving air-cooled engine. When I first picked this bike up I ran Honda Lube Dyno 10-40 motorcycle oil for two changes before I put the spin on filter adapter on and switched to Amsoil and an EA filter. I sent a sample of the used dyno oil out to Blackstone for an analysis. It was completely used up life wise, and it barely had 2,000 miles on it. After I switched to Amsoil I extended my oil change interval the first time to 5K miles. When I changed it I again took a sample and sent it off. At 5K the oil still had quite a bit of life left. So now I run the oil for 6K intervals. The bike runs quieter than it ever did on dyno, especially when I'm out riding in 100* weather and I'm not taking it easy. I run synthetic in everything I own, from front to back. As much money as one spends to keep a car or any other motorized vehicle on the road (Insurance, gas tolls, tires, etc) Why would I decide to be cheap on what is perhaps the most expensive thing to fix on a vehicle-the drive train? It boggles my mind when I meet someone who doesn't blink at spending tens of thousands of dollars on a new vehicle, yet will grumble at spending a few dollars more for an oil that will last longer and in the long run save money.
Quote from: karl61 on February 20, 2011, 08:30:49 AM
Do you have a Walmart in Portugal or something like it. Although I haven't tried it yet I have friends that swear by Shell Rotella semi synthetic. I picked this up for about twelve U.S. Dollars.
(http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/5986/shellzn.jpg)
I second this one.
I did some research a few years ago and found that Shell Rotella has properties that allow it to last longer (since it takes most riders a little longer to reach 2,000 - 3,000 miles). It's very cheap compared to the others. I don't use it here in my town in Hungary since I can't find it. I just use the cheapest 15W40 non-synthetic oil. Most oil here is synthetic. I've seen some oil here for $75 / quart! While searching for oil to top off the FJ, I had to stop at 3 gas stations to find non-synthetic. I'm a simple man, so I believe since synthetic = super slippery, I don't want it on my clutch plates. Plus my heart isn't totally into my FJ. My clock is ticking here in Hungary, and I'll probably end up just leaving my bike with my landlord. I might have a few months to a couple years left here, then I return to my V-Max in Washington.