I will try to consolidate all my electrical issue posts here.
I have a full battery. The four fuses in the upper left part of the fairing in the "fuse" area test okay.
I need my lights to come on and I want to see the oil light but nothing. I checked my battery cables and nothing seems out of place.
Now I want to use my little meter and check these things out. Would a burnt out plastic thing interfere with me getting electricity to the fuses.
(http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/652/ck1bv.jpg)
(http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/4171/check2w.jpg)
(http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/8735/meteru.jpg)
My question would be how do you check to see if the plastic thing is working. My ICU -= box would that have something to do with the oil light and head light going on. what setting would I use to check these things.
i had a load of electrical problems on my bike, it turned out to be some corrosion on the connector blocks,,, i ended up smearing the blocks with loads of vaseline and popped them in and out a few times,,, it seems to have done the trick,, you might try that....
thanks for the response. I will update with pictures or videos as I take on this issue.
what year bike are you working on? :unknown:
you say the fuses are all good, do you have power to them when you turn the key on?
Do you know how to use that meter? :pardon:
No power when I hit the start button. ....nothing on my 84 FJ1100
I'm just starting to learn about the multimeter. The only settings I know are for the battery and for fuses:
(http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/8735/meteru.jpg)
If nothing else you figured out how to post pictures. That is something.
Turn that meter to 10 o'clock position the DCV 20 setting.
Then touch the battery, Red to red black to black.
what does the meter say?
Quote from: Travis398 on February 14, 2011, 05:54:23 PM
If nothing else you figured out how to post pictures. That is something.
Turn that meter to 10 o'clock position the DCV 20 setting.
Then touch the battery, Red to red black to black.
what does the meter say?
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/5418/9od.mp4 (http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/5418/9od.mp4)
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4944/ziy.mp4 (http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4944/ziy.mp4)
I'm actually trying to remove the starter solenoid but have stopped due to this plastic connector thing up the line; not sure what it i or how to separate it.
(http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/3987/ss1da.jpg)
(http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/1802/ss2td.jpg)
you probably don't need to take that apart, in fact you may be making things worse.
That looks like a regular bullet type wire connector. It comes apart but if you are not careful you can pull the wire out of the connector.
Quote from: karl61 on February 14, 2011, 06:18:25 PM
(http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/1802/ss2td.jpg)
Give it a firm pull and it will come apart. Those are bullet connectors.
Randy - RPM
okay - I disconnected at the bullet connectors. I have the solenoid out. I also see a small nut holding on a wire. Can I use the meter to check the solenoid? and if so at what setting.
(http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/6899/sss1.jpg)
I can also tell from this other video I posted before regarding and issue that the front light should be on. It's not on when I turn the key.
I have a full battery. The cables looked all connected. The fuses tested good. No light when I turn the key and so nothing when I hit the starter button.
FJ1100 neutral switch (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsPPoq19CzU#)
Karl...... not sure what year you have but I think they are all the same when I say to check the master fuse in the positive line coming from the battery........On mines its just by the battery box..
Seems to me that if you are not even getting a light coming on and you have 12.38 volts according to the m/meter, that you have a break in the positive wire somewhere..... and the main fuse is a good place to start.
Harvy
Quote from: Harvy on February 14, 2011, 11:03:19 PM
Karl...... not sure what year you have but I think they are all the same when I say to check the master fuse in the positive line coming from the battery........On mines its just by the battery box..
Seems to me that if you are not even getting a light coming on and you have 12.38 volts according to the m/meter, that you have a break in the positive wire somewhere..... and the main fuse is a good place to start.
Harvy
thank you - what are the fuses that I pulled from underneath the left handle bar. A little compartment that said "fuse" on it. One was going horizontal and three were facing perpendicular...those were the ones that I tested.
I'm not sure Karl......is a different model to my '91 (does not have that fuse box), but I would assume they are fuses for the ancillary circuits.......horn - that sort of thing.
Harvy
Thanks for all the responses. I think it might be easier if I take the tank off. I've seen some videos on that issue. From the pictures can some also tell how to figure out what end went to the positive cable and what to the negative. And how would you choose it if it came in brand new. Also, from the pictures you can see in the back/front of the solenoid two other small nuts, one with a wire on it. If I had to how do I get those off. What are those for?
I think I located it and found out that there are different type of fuses on the 84FJ1000. I never saw the one I did a test on before but these in what I think is the main fuse box is what I have seen before and one appears to be burnt in the middle.
(http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/1935/burntfuse1.jpg)
(http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2862/burnt2.jpg)
(http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/5489/burnt1.jpg)
(http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/7459/fuseokay.jpg)
(http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/3168/mainfusebox2.jpg)
(http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3168/mainfusebox2.jpg)
My question now is how to put the bullet connectors back together with the plastic thing on and how to tell positive section of the solenoid. I also think the lights should work without the solenoid, at least for a quick check.
Quote from: karl61 on February 15, 2011, 02:15:16 PM
My question now is how to put the bullet connectors back together with the plastic thing on and how to tell positive section of the solenoid. I also think the lights should work without the solenoid, at least for a quick check.
The bullet connectors just snap together...
Randy T
Indy
Karl....... doesn't matter with the big terminals which side is pos and which is neg. It may matter with the small terminals though.
A solenoid is really just a relay....... the little wires attach internally to coil of wire - when current flows by pressing the starter button, the coil creates an electro-magnet. Inside the coil is a metal rod which then moves to close a contact which in turn passes current thru the large wires to the starter motor. When the starter button is released the magnetic field collapses and a spring moves the metal rod back to its original position.
Now having said that, I'm not sure whether the magnetic field is influenced by polarity (ie. wire it the wrong way round and the rod moves in the wrong direction)...... but I would think that if it is, its a simple matter the correct if you get it wrong the first time.
Harvy
Quote from: karl61 on February 14, 2011, 07:18:02 PM
(http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/6899/sss1.jpg)
the battery should go to the post on the left, notice the little strap connecting it to the smaller stud.
edit
Quote from: karl61 on February 15, 2011, 06:01:17 PM
Thanks guys and gals. I put the negative with the wire with the bullet connector. When I put in one of the "15" switches which looks side ways and the one closest to the center , when that went in my light went on. This was after replacing the burnt master switch.
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/9097/dkc.mp4 (http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/9097/dkc.mp4)
Quote from: Travis398 on February 15, 2011, 05:52:41 PM
the battery should go to the post on the left, notice the little strap connecting it to the smaller stud.
Ah yes well spotted Travis..... I didn't notice that when I posted. So the starter button is connecting the neg side to ground.
Cheers
Harvy
now if I can only fix my neutral light - keep it on when it's in neutral.
Quote from: karl61 on February 15, 2011, 06:34:29 PM
now if I can only fix my neutral light - keep it on when it's in neutral.
Does it come on at all?
Maybe the bulb is blown?
Harvy
Quote from: Harvy on February 15, 2011, 06:54:38 PM
Quote from: karl61 on February 15, 2011, 06:34:29 PM
now if I can only fix my neutral light - keep it on when it's in neutral.
Does it come on at all?
Maybe the bulb is blown?
Harvy
see link in post 53. also, maybe I don't have the switch. I actually have an ebay neutral switch right next to me. That's will be my next tinkering issue....
(popcorn)
Quote from: karl61 on February 15, 2011, 07:10:29 PM
see link in post 53. also, maybe I don't have the switch. I actually have an ebay neutral switch right next to me. That's will be my next tinkering issue....
OK, got it....it is not the bulb.
So it goes out as soon as the bike starts........ does it illuminate if you move the gear change lever up and down just a little (not enough to engage a gear) while the bike is running?
I will take a look at mine when I get home, as I can't remember how it works, but from memory it's just activated by the position of the selector drum maybe. I'm thinking that maybe there is enough play in the gear selector mechanism that when the motor is running it turns off.
Of course, I may be completely wrong!
Harvy
The green light is controlled by a lil wire connected to a roughly triangular piece of plastic on the left of the motor, it has a contact that touches the pin that sticks out of the end of the drum. Three screws retain it, pop it out, clean that area up good and solid (there's an oring in there I think also to seal the area from the chain filth nearby, as well as keeping some oil in the motor perhaps). Been awhile since I was in that area though, so I'm prolly in left field also. Possible that the wire to that point is mostly broken and moving the shifter causes it to make the connection, also. I had to replace that wire on mine as well as the oil level sender's connection, looked like something maybe got in the chain and chewed them up a bit in there.
thanks for the replies:
this is what I bought from ebay. I hope it works.
(http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/9267/neutralswitch.jpg)