FJowners.com

General Category => Modifications => Topic started by: TheRadBaron on December 23, 2010, 08:57:22 PM

Title: 6mm studs near cam tunnel in head (different lengths)
Post by: TheRadBaron on December 23, 2010, 08:57:22 PM
I just got my head back from the machinist and I'm trying to put the studs back into the head.  There are two 6mm studs in front of and two behind the cam tunnel in the head.  They bolt through the cylinder.  I didn't notice when I took them out, but they're two different lengths.  Which length goes where?
I looked at the motor and it's not obvious at this state of disassembly.  I'm thinking that maybe the rear ones are longer, but I'm not sure.  Thanks.
Title: Re: 6mm studs near cam tunnel in head (different lengths)
Post by: racerrad8 on December 23, 2010, 09:41:49 PM
Quote from: TheRadBaron on December 23, 2010, 08:57:22 PM
I'm thinking that maybe the rear ones are longer, but I'm not sure.  Thanks.

Nope, long ones in the front the short ones in the rear. The cam chain tensioner will interfer if you put the long ones in the rear.

Randy - RPM
Title: Re: 6mm studs near cam tunnel in head (different lengths)
Post by: andyb on December 24, 2010, 07:37:52 AM
Is there anything Randy doesn't know about these engines?
Title: Re: 6mm studs near cam tunnel in head (different lengths)
Post by: racerman_27410 on December 24, 2010, 01:34:27 PM
nope..... Randy can build one of these in his sleep.  :good2:

Kookaloo!
Title: Re: 6mm studs near cam tunnel in head (different lengths)
Post by: TheRadBaron on December 24, 2010, 02:04:04 PM
Got it.  Thanks.
Title: Re: 6mm studs near cam tunnel in head (different lengths)
Post by: Pat Conlon on December 26, 2010, 01:14:04 PM


Quote from: andyb on December 24, 2010, 07:37:52 AM
Is there anything Randy doesn't know about these engines?

Quote from: racerman_27410 on December 24, 2010, 01:34:27 PM
nope..... Randy can build one of these in his sleep.  :good2:

I hope he won't be asleep when he builds mine!!
Title: Re: 6mm studs near cam tunnel in head (different lengths)
Post by: fj1250 on January 20, 2011, 09:02:36 AM
Motohorseman is definitely on the right track.
Most of these engines are in such a bad state of tune that they don't make any power.
Of course that's a relative term. With 1200cc thay can run lousy and still seem OK
check the valve clearances and adjust to the loose side by .002" if your going to run the bike hard or they are already tight.

Reason for this is the valve face (where the valve meets the seat) wears. This causes the valves to tighten causing compression to go down.
This is caused by extreme heat from late Vavle timing (emmisions timing to the cams)
Get a set of slotted sprockets and drop the valve timing from the stock 108-112 to 104-106.

Slot you ignition timing plate 1/8" towards counterclockwise. This allows you to put in aprox 4degrees fo ignition advance.
Pull the intake snorkels out of the airbox. Jet kit.
You'll think somebody bolted a new bike underneath you. If done right you'll have 80-85lbs/ft. of torque and close to 120rwhp.

Mike C