I have 66k miles of records from previous owners and my 89 always ran 20-50 full synthetic. What does everybody else use?
Steffen
The manual I have calls for 20W40. But I put in some 10W40 Amsoil. I love that stuff. Bike is shifting MUCH better now. I realize it's usually more expensive, but I typically only use Amsoil in my bikes.
10w40 as cheap as I can get it.
Replaced every 500 miles or so, so I don't worry about it much. (Work on the bike pretty frequently, drag race a lot, etc.)
Last fall I tried a synthetic 20W50 in my 93 FJ. Half way through my trip the starter motor wouldn't engage. Once I got home and changed the oil back to 10w40 which I usually run, I have had no problems with the starter engaging the engine. I think the new synthetic oils are of a better quality that you can go down a viscosity.
Rick
10w40 Castrol ACT-EVO semi-syn MC oil..... been using it for the 4-5 years and I like it. Less mechanical noise, better shifting and all the rest.... and not too expensive. I usually get a case at Cycle Gear when its on sale.
As long as it is wet and slippery and gets changed every 3000 miles :dance2: I have been using Delo 15w/40 :good:
Another vote for Castrol ACT-EVO. By the gallon from Dennis Kirk.
Mobil One Red Cap was preferred, but no longer available or at least hard to come by. I've done Golden Spectro, but really didn't notice any improvement and it's expensive as hell. I'd give Amsoil a try, but when I need oil, I need it NOW (poor planning skills).
Rossi
Mobil Delvac 15w/40 Diesel Oil. Always have, always will.
Check this out and then decide for yourself: http://tinyurl.com/azn5o (http://tinyurl.com/azn5o)
Wow, this is going completely different than the recent oil thread on the "FJ club UK".
thats because only kewl hip people hang out here..... we only wanna be free to ride and not be hassled by the man! :good2:
I also used to use Mobil1 red cap, and have been using Rotella T synthetic.
I'm gonna switch to Amsoil oil & filter on the next change, though.
Randy T
Indy
I have also read that article a long time ago, and I have been using Rotella T synthetic for many years now. Very happy with it and I you can get it at Wally world(Wal-mart) for $18.
Michael
89FJ1200
Yamalube 20/40 Motorcycle formulation or Kawachem 20/
Been running Amsoil for a long time. 10W-40 in the winter, 20W-50 in the summer. Change it at about 5K miles.
Hey folks, here's a question. I am not sure prior to me buying the bike how it was treated and what the oil was or frequency of changes. Can I just jump to synthetic oil or do I have to switch gradually, do I "flush" the motor before using? So many questions and such limited typing skills!! :mail1:
Quote from: Ratchet_72 on April 09, 2009, 08:11:33 PM
Mobil Delvac 15w/40 Diesel Oil. Always have, always will.
Check this out and then decide for yourself: http://tinyurl.com/azn5o (http://tinyurl.com/azn5o)
I was doin okay with this, then I got to the 'Go Packers' part... gag.
Randy T
Indy
PS: I'm using Rotella T synth.
Been using Castrol 4T (for motorcycles) -seems OK, and it's cheap from Pep Boys. I change my oil twice per year. Once in the late spring, early summer, and again in late fall, no matter what the mileage. Maybe next time I'll try Rotella.
Dan
Quote from: new owner on April 26, 2009, 08:09:05 AM
Hey folks, here's a question. I am not sure prior to me buying the bike how it was treated and what the oil was or frequency of changes. Can I just jump to synthetic oil or do I have to switch gradually, do I "flush" the motor before using? So many questions and such limited typing skills!! :mail1:
"Your results may vary...." There have been reports by some that when they made the switch to synth, they started leaking. Or burning it. Or the clutch starts slipping. I was using semi-synth when I made the switch over, with no ill effects, for, oh, 80-90K miles now.
I went to Mobile 1 (red cap) on the FJ, and that first oil change, on a hard acceleration, up a steep hill, on a really hot day, the clutch did slip slightly once or twice. By change # 2, I could not reproduce the slipping no matter how hard I tried to... I did not leak or burn any oil though.
I think at the time someone said that I should install a larger/ second clutch spring. Given that I did not go WOT up hills all that much, I ignored it and, luckily it went away. YRMV...
Dan
I run Amsoil 10W-40. I like their marketing because they use actual standard testing methods and test nearly all other oils to compare with theirs, which is pretty bold for a manufacturer to do, so they must have a lot of confidence in their oil. I used to run 20W-50, but I've found I get better gas mileage and the bike heats up a tad quicker with the 10W-40 and I think with a full synthetic the heavier oil is not necessary. I don't replace my oil nearly as often as others do and I haven't found the bike to run any worse or consume any more oil than it did when I bought it over 40,000 miles ago.
those of you running diesel oil is there a procedure involved in making the switch? im too hungover to read through that whole article that ratchet posted, just need to get in the shop and get oily.
In most cases I drained the old oil and swapped out the filter first....
I run Rotella 5/40 synthetic in all my bikes. Previously silkolene semi synthetic, but prices went up and I noticed no difference when running the truck stuff.
Quote from: McWood on May 16, 2009, 12:33:07 PM
those of you running diesel oil is there a procedure involved in making the switch? im too hungover to read through that whole article that ratchet posted, just need to get in the shop and get oily.
McWood, The gist of the article is the Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 is the best (or the Mobil equivalent). Last week here in SoCal it was $23.00 a gallon at a local Autozone type store. If you want to save some money, then get the next best: Shell Rotella T 15w-40 (non-synthetic). That is what I did. It was 12.99 a gallon. Shifts smooth and will be just fine if you change it at 2500 miles or so. Yeah, just change the oil filter when you switch...you'll be good to go!
Marsh,
Thanks for the feedback on the non-synthetic Shell oil. I saw it for same price at a local auto store and was thinking of giving it a shot. I usually do an oil change before and after the rally anyway.
In the Cincinnati area only Wal Mart carries the rotella 5/40 synthetic. I think I paid 18 or 19 bucks for a gallon a few weeks ago.
well i got impatient and went ahead replaced the filter and filled her up with 15w-40 rotella t (had some laying around from the duramax) before i read your guys posts. Thanks for the tips! i just got back from the test ride and i must say i'm impressed, she runs alot smoother and quiter now with the rotella.
What i was/am wondering is if i should change the oil and filter here shortly due to what the new detergents are cleaning out. i've been in a couple of camp fire convos about running rotella in jeep engines. there always one or two "experts" who claim that by running detergents in an allready dirty engine you can actually cause damage when you remove the deposits. sound like a bunch of hooey to me, but im the better safe than sorry type. Sounds like i have nothing to worry about if i wait till the next scheduled oil change.
p.s. i just paid $18 for a gallon of the rotella t
Going back to the article: http://tinyurl.com/azn5o (http://tinyurl.com/azn5o)
The "detergent" level seems dependant on the weight of oil. The 15w-40 Rotella does not have have much. The 5w-40 Rotella (synthetic) has even less. You have NOTHING to worry about! It is the 15w-50 (and other weights...see the article) that has the higher level and causes the clutch to slip. I've been there done that...happy to have that Mobil 1 "Gold Cap" shit out of my FJ for good! (yes I tried it after the Red Cap disappeared...dumb ass me)
FYI: The Mobil 1 "Red Cap" never slipped for me...but that has since been discontinued for a couple of years now. Honestly, the Rotella 15w-40 feels even better to me than the "Red Cap" ever did...shifts A LOT smoother.
Been using AMSOIL 10-40 in all the FJ's. Has better properties in high heat than dino oil. Never had clutch slipping problems. Shifts nice. No worries of break down in traffic. Keeps the case clean and no carbon build up.
Generally I run the season (4 months) with the same synthetic oil in the bike. Most people change their oil too often without even doing an oil anaysis. I did one on my car after running Amsoil for a year and the anaysis came up to change the oil and filter. There was nothing there to suggest that the oil and particle levels were beyond normal. When I rebuilt the engine, the galleries were spotless.Wear on the lifters, rockers were non existant. Why did I rebuild the engine? During a race, I had detonation and collapsed three pistons. I was running 13.5:1 on 94 octane with 40 degrees advance @2500 and 10 initial. It was a fuel issue.
To change your oil too often is just a waste of money that doesn't do anything to prolong the life of the engine. I'm a Millwright for 32 years and have been doing oil anaysis on industrial equipment where the OEM suggested oil change intervals were extended 2 times or more. Equipment that costs $1 million dollars and up. Use a good synthetic and don't worry. Do an oil analysis if you have concerns and you can sleep at night. If you change from dino oil to synthetic, change the filter a couple of times cause the sluge from the dino oil will be disolved by the synthetic oil.
More reading here: http://www.motorcyclebloggers.com/images/angrybob/oil_bible_motorcycle.pdf (http://www.motorcyclebloggers.com/images/angrybob/oil_bible_motorcycle.pdf)
I was in two Wal-Mart stores over the weekend, and neither had the jugs of Rotella T synth in stock.
They never did carry it in quarts either, so not sure what I'll use this time.
Randy T
Indy