Hello:
Before I start tearing into my FJ too much, what is a good starting point for the tools to have on hand? (without regard to mechanical skill)
I have the normal sockets, wrenches, screw drivers, etc, but what about the ones that are needed but not that run of the mill (like the star torx thingys)
I'm planning on replacing the rotors on my '85 1100, so that's a place to start with whats needed.
Thanks!
MrFox
Special tool for the fork caps and damper rod ...... take an 18mm bolt (it has a 27mm head, fits the caps/damper rod) and drive a 5/8(IIRC) socket over the shank.
Also need a tool for the valve shim removal/replacement. Get it from RPM Randy.
Can't think of anything else, someone else will chime in with wahtever I forgot....
A torch, #30 torx driver, chain tools, clutch basket holder, measuring devices, tire irons, bead breaker, synch gauge, jack, front/rear stands.
Really don't need a ton of specialized things to do nearly any job to it.
Quote from: MrFox on November 23, 2010, 08:43:39 PM
Hello:
Before I start tearing into my FJ too much, what is a good starting point for the tools to have on hand? (without regard to mechanical skill)
I have the normal sockets, wrenches, screw drivers, etc, but what about the ones that are needed but not that run of the mill (like the star torx thingys)
I'm planning on replacing the rotors on my '85 1100, so that's a place to start with whats needed.
Thanks!
MrFox
Nope, you won't need any torx bits.
For the rotors, a set of metric alan keys.
I've found that a shock driver in 1/2 inch drive with an appropriate (5mm I think - can't remember) alan key head usually does the trick.
Most bolts are either 10, 12 , 14 or 17mm heads. And an 8mm ring for the bleeders on the callipers if necessary.
You may also find a heating (propane) torch is required to loosen the thread locking gunk on the rotor bolts - but that what I use the shock driver for.
Harvy
You need a #30 torx for something inside the motor.
You'll need a big socket (30? 36? 32mm?) for the countershaft.
Oh yes, impact driver = ftw.
I didn't know about the Torx driver - haven't been into the motor so haven't had the need....sorry about that.
yes......32mm for the c/s nut.
Harvy
36mm
Best tool I have ever purchased for working on the FJ or any other bike.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-motorcycle-lift-91764.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-motorcycle-lift-91764.html)
Look around for a 20% off coupon to bring the price down even more. :)
If you can't find that 20% off coupon on-line I see them with some frequency in the back of Motorcyclist magazine.
Actually I once talked the cashier into giving me the 20% despite the fact that I did not have the coupon on me. Another time they took my word on a price I said I had seen it on-line and they changed it on the spot. I had actually seen it but they did not know that. They seem fairly lax about such things, at least at my local store.
Dan
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on November 23, 2010, 10:39:43 PM
36mm
Dave, you might be the OldSlowGuy, but you still have better memory than me!
Harvy
You'll need a 6mm allen key or 6mm in-hex socket to do your brake rotors. Pete. :good2:
Quote from: Dan Filetti on November 23, 2010, 11:51:21 PM
If you can't find that 20% off coupon on-line I see them with some frequency in the back of Motorcyclist magazine.
Actually I once talked the cashier into giving me the 20% despite the fact that I did not have the coupon on me. Another time they took my word on a price I said I had seen it on-line and they changed it on the spot. I had actually seen it but they did not know that. They seem fairly lax about such things, at least at my local store.
Dan
Several magazines have their ad now. I got a $5 subscription to Popular Mechanics last year from Amazon just to make sure I had a supply of the coupons. Now they come in the newspaper every Sunday.
I get to go to HF a lot, now that there are two stores within 20 minutes of here. :good:
Randy T
Indy
..small snap ring pliers
- so you can remove & lube the shifter pivot
- so you can remove the big shaft that goes thru the lower shock mount/swingarm/relay arm (84-87)
^ good catch. Also need snap ring pliers to pull the gear from the oil pump.
Need ring expanders to safely remove/install piston rings. Need ring compressor to mount pistons in cylinder.
The 30 torx is for removing the bearing retainer behind the clutch assembly.
If you start really getting into it, a die grinder, a CNC, a flowbench, a dyno... Depends I suppose on how much work you're doing! :) For the most part, a good general toolkit will get you 95% of the way there on most basic jobs. The commonly needed specialized tools are:
-A carb synch tool for routine carb balancing (get the Morgan (http://www.carbtune.com/)
-A chain breaker/riveting tool
-A valve holder for setting lash
-An impact driver for breaking loose things that are stupidly tight
-A propane torch, for the same
-A clutch holder, if you're pulling the basket out (Motion Pro (http://www.amazon.com/CLUTCH-HOLDING-TOOL-MOTION-080008/dp/B000HS4NA8) makes a good one, though you may have to grind it a bit to fit perfectly)
-A 36mm socket for the countershaft nut (it's helpful to grind it so that it's totally flat, works better then)
-A good torque wrench, or two (3/8 + 1/4 is handy, mostly things are 40ft/lbs or lower, highest I can think of is the rear axle nut)
-A good multimeter for electrical crap.
A parts cleaner is absolutely priceless, too.
Mighty Vac or a big honkin syringe for bleeding brake lines and clutch lines...... :yes:
Cheers...Jake
Quote from: MrFox on November 23, 2010, 08:43:39 PM
what is a good starting point for the tools to have on hand?
MrFox
Beer :drinks:
Set of T-handle allen speed wrenches. Use them all the time. Get a set cheap at Harbor Freight. Get two.
A decent Volt/Ohm multi meter, small block of 2 x 4 to put under the tank when you need to shut off the petcock.
james
allen key to undo krauser racks to get the key in to get the seat off to get to the....oh.... i dont have a tool kit...... chuckles...... Beats the kwaka. key to remove rear seat screwdriver to undo front seat to get to tools. have found tho, that on the general, i use 8 10 12 14 mm spanners, (combination spanners... still have the kwaka ones..... can get stubby ones ) small 6 inch steel rule, screwdriver with removable bits,electricians tape, a few fuses, and some wire.... sounds like a lot but i use to use all that on my kwakas....( wire in case worm screw clamps let go...had a fuel hose bust) O! and a spark plug tube spanner. and a small rod to use as leverage and a small tube flettened at one end.
Couple of Band-Aids might be good.
Well yeah, also fire extinguishers, a laptop/computer in the garage is handy, music to work with, a cell in your pocket, etc...
But that's just safety and common sense stuff, not really tools!
Honestly, just tear into shit and see where you get stopped, get what you want, and carry on. It's all fun.
Quote from: Dan Filetti on November 23, 2010, 11:51:21 PM
Actually I once talked the cashier into giving me the 20% despite the fact that I did not have the coupon on me...
That was ridiculous, why did they let that happen? However, they are now improving in the service, look at their magazines. In fact, I've bought items to them lately with using my coupons.
Quote from: arjel jimenez on January 14, 2011, 02:26:26 AM
Quote from: Dan Filetti on November 23, 2010, 11:51:21 PM
Actually I once talked the cashier into giving me the 20% despite the fact that I did not have the coupon on me...
That was ridiculous, why did they let that happen? However, they are now improving in the service, look at their magazines. In fact, I've bought items to them lately with using my coupons.
Ridiculous? Surely not. It's decent, considerate personal customer service. They empower their cashiers to make spot decisions -this is a good thing, not a bad thing. I indicated to the cashier that I had the coupon, but merely forgot to bring it with me. The cashier knew me, and knew that was true as I had brought the coupon in several times prior. I am a repeat customer, the kind they'd like to keep. This was a good call on their part and I appreciated it.
How is this ridiculous?
Dan
VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter. VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter.VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter.VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter.VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter.VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter.
The importance of this tool I WILL overstate. Buy a shitty one. Buy an expensive one. Just F***n buy one if you plan on even heading in the direction of your motorcycle with a screwdriver in your hand.
Quote from: Ratchet_72 on February 08, 2011, 09:58:59 PM
VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter. VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter.VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter.VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter.VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter.VOM, Volt/Ohm/Meter, continuity tester, Multimeter.
The importance of this tool I WILL overstate. Buy a shitty one. Buy an expensive one. Just F***n buy one if you plan on even heading in the direction of your motorcycle with a screwdriver in your hand.
Now are you sure about that!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
Give a call one of these days, Have you done anything to the sporty thing yet?
I suppose that I can see the merits of owning a DVOM in most circumstances, but what do you use it for on a bike? If you're trying to troubleshoot electrical problems, there are better tools for the job.
First, I like the Blue Point CTS-24, a relatively simple electronic 6-24V circuit tester. Probe it into the wire or connector and you get a green light for ground and a red light for power. Easy to determine the polarity of a lead and to determine whether it changes state as necessary.
(http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv179/mikeholzer/AstroStartInstall2008-11-08145.jpg)
Red light:
(http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv179/mikeholzer/AstroStartInstall2008-11-08124.jpg)
Green light:
(http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv179/mikeholzer/AstroStartInstall2008-11-08125.jpg)
The other tool I like is the Power Probe. It functions much the same as the CTS-24, but it features a rocker switch where you can force either power or a ground to actuate a circuit; great for checking relays.
(http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv179/mikeholzer/AstroStartInstall2008-11-08147.jpg)
Red Light:
(http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv179/mikeholzer/AstroStartInstall2008-11-08129.jpg)
Green light:
(http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv179/mikeholzer/AstroStartInstall2008-11-08130.jpg)
Forcing power or ground:
(http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv179/mikeholzer/AstroStartInstall2008-11-08132.jpg)
(http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv179/mikeholzer/AstroStartInstall2008-11-08131.jpg)
Shown here is the Power Probe v1.0. I'm also currently running their v3.0, which has a backlit screen to show the voltage on the circuit. These are the tools to chase your electrical gremlins with. I think I paid $125 for the Power Probe and less than $60 for the CTS-24, but that was from the Snap-On man. All of the above also feature a "headlight" to make these easier to use in dark places, especially under dashboards.
That looks like a handy tool , the ol test probe has come a long way.
In the wrong hands it would be a disaster.
keep it simple and just get a cheepy volt meter. them red light green lights ain't gonna help with voltage drops.
Any tool is only as good as the person using it.
I mean shit, get a bigass brick, a hammer, and a chisel, and you ain't gonna make Michelangelo look like a hack, but that's what he had and seemed to do pretty well with it. Same deal with a voltmeter, a wrench, whatever.
My only rule of thumb is that any adjustable tool is always the wrong answer, with the exception that the tool you don't have with you is an even bigger wrong answer.
Far and away the stuff that makes working on things easiest is good lighting, decent ergonomics (a lift and/or a decent bench), and frequently, another set of hands.
Quote from: Mark Olson on February 09, 2011, 12:44:00 PM
That looks like a handy tool , the ol test probe has come a long way.
In the wrong hands it would be a disaster.
keep it simple and just get a cheepy volt meter. them red light green lights ain't gonna help with voltage drops.
Mark, I beg to differ. Although I didn't show it, I stepped up to the Power Probe III, which has a handy little display which shows both voltage and polarity (http://www.powerprobeonline.com/pp319ftc--power-probe-iii--with-case-and-accessor319.html (http://www.powerprobeonline.com/pp319ftc--power-probe-iii--with-case-and-accessor319.html) -- about $155). No joke, this is stupidly easy to use and frequently makes me look a like a genius, which is typically hard to do.
In the words of Dan Filetti, No affiliation... I just like their product.
Quote from: mikeholzer on February 10, 2011, 06:04:02 AM
Mark, I beg to differ. Although I didn't show it, I stepped up to the Power Probe III, which has a handy little display which shows both voltage and polarity (http://www.powerprobeonline.com/pp319ftc--power-probe-iii--with-case-and-accessor319.html (http://www.powerprobeonline.com/pp319ftc--power-probe-iii--with-case-and-accessor319.html) -- about $155
Mike, you're clearly a pro and the stuff you listed totals > $300 which is no big deal for a "real" mechanic.. the rest of us get by on a $25 multimeter that we use about once a year.
I literally have to find a new 9v battery everytime I want to use mine becuase it's either been so long or I left it on the last time.. :ireful:
Quote from: mikeholzer on February 10, 2011, 06:04:02 AM
Quote from: Mark Olson on February 09, 2011, 12:44:00 PM
That looks like a handy tool , the ol test probe has come a long way.
In the wrong hands it would be a disaster.
keep it simple and just get a cheepy volt meter. them red light green lights ain't gonna help with voltage drops.
Mark, I beg to differ. Although I didn't show it, I stepped up to the Power Probe III, which has a handy little display which shows both voltage and polarity (http://www.powerprobeonline.com/pp319ftc--power-probe-iii--with-case-and-accessor319.html (http://www.powerprobeonline.com/pp319ftc--power-probe-iii--with-case-and-accessor319.html) -- about $155). No joke, this is stupidly easy to use and frequently makes me look a like a genius, which is typically hard to do.
In the words of Dan Filetti, No affiliation... I just like their product.
Mike, like I said before , that would be a handy tool. the upgrade to the display model would be even better.
however , most guys have trouble enough just checking battery voltage with a meter or test probe.
Do you carry that tool with you on your fj when you travel?
My somewhat jaded view is due to the idiocy I am forced to endure as I try to teach retards how to use a multimeter at my Hvacr vocational school.
It is a given that fj riders are smarter than others , but I still believe a tool that forces voltage thru circuits would be confusing to a lot of people.
A jumper wire would cost less.
nice looking test lights :good:
Probably a whole lot safer around sensitive electronic circuits.
taking some of the risk away from using a test light might not be a bad thing.
I wouldn't take it with me on the FJ, but than again,
I have never taken any tools with me on the FJ.
No your buddys bring them for you :shok:
Quote from: weymouth399 on February 10, 2011, 03:38:34 PM
No your buddys bring them for you :shok:
I find that hard to believe...
Randy T
Indy
Quote from: weymouth399 on February 10, 2011, 03:38:34 PM
No your buddys bring them for you :shok:
could you be talking about the buddy that broke down on the side of the road and made me ride back to get his truck and trailer
so he could get his bike back home? I cleaned all the carbon out of his truck on the highway that day, don't tell him though :diablo:
I think that was the same buddy that use to break down every 10-15 miles, making a 20 minute ride last an hour, or two.
I suppose that may explain why my "buddys" bring tools for me, So I can work on
their his bike.