After changing the oil and installing an oil filter (ya, one of the previous owners skipped that step :dash2:) I started on syncing the carbs.
I made my own homemade carb tuner that is hooked up to the vacuum nipples in front of the carbs that are normally all blocked off with caps with the exception of one:
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g278/jcy123/100_3000.jpg)
I guess I have some basic questions.
1) Do you need to let the bike warm up first before you hook up the tuner?
- I hooked it up on a cold engine and one of the tubes almost had the fluid sucked into the throttle body. I seem to remember reading that you need to warm the bike up first.
- Also, when the bike first kicks on it really causes the fluid (tranny fluid for color and viscosity) to froth up and generally be useless. Will warming the bike up before hand help this?
2) I've read elsewhere on the forum that a good starting position to have the air/fuel mixture screw set at is 2.5 turns from fully seated. Is this recommended?
- I haven't yet messed with the mixture screw to see where they are right now, but I can only imagine that they are all over the place because of the previous owner.
Any other tips you could throw my way would be greatly appreciated.
And to give you an idea as to why I am tuning:
The bike runs great in the higher RPMS (over 3500-4000) but has barely any power below that, to the point where it almost will stall out when first letting the clutch out. I have cleaned the carbs with both carb cleaner and a compressor and am confident that they are in good working order, so I thought that tuning the carbs was my last step. Will a detuned set of carbs cause the bike to act this way?
Thanks for the help!
you might need to put some kind of restrictors in those balancer lines to reduce the amount of vacume and as a result the frothing problem.
always warm the bike up to operating temp before trying to tune the carbs.
2.5 turns on the mix screws is a good starting point but the real tell is the "blip test"
how low do you have the idle set?..... it should be somewhere around 1000 RPM
KOokaloo! :good2:
I won't lie, I haven't a clue how to set the idle on this particular bike. It seems to idle below 1000RPM though, that I know.
Idle spec is 950-1050 RPM. I usually use a tach that clips on the plug wire since I have no trust of bike instruments. The idle adjust knob is actually on the bottom of the carb assembly in the middle towards the front.
(http://www.paulspage.com/knob.jpg)
I know that my Morgan Carbtune http://www.carbtune.com (http://www.carbtune.com)/ has restricters on every line. I've been using mine for about 10 years now. The bike has to be completely warmed up to synchronize properly.
I'm no carb expert, but I doubt doubt synchronizing the carb vacuum will solve your problems. Do you have a jet kit or after market exhaust or air filter installed? You may need to replace one of the jets. I'm not sure which one does low RPM. I installed a Dynojet kit and it has the same problems. In fact, between 1500-2000 RPM the bike can't even function, I just have to blast through that range. I've gotten used to just winding the bike up to go from a stop and slip the clutch lots in low speed maneuvers.
That procedure is similar to the one a old-timer told me on setting the mixture screws. He said to start at 3 turns and warm the bike up in the driveway. Next turn each screw a quarter turn in until the engine is just about to die, then turn each screw a quarter turn out until the engine idles normally, then go half turn beyond that. I did that about 30,000 miles ago so far no problems. However, if you screw it up, you'll burn a hole in a piston. I have a friend who has done that on two bikes.
So I've warmed the bike up and one cylinder is still pulling more than the other and the fluid is still frothing even with restrictors in the line.
However, I've played around with each individual mixture screw so that the bike idles (per the stock tach) right around 1000RPM and it responds pretty much like it should doing the "blip" test. I still think it needs to be sync'd, but I'm not sure I'll be able to do it with my homebrew kit. I'll try some more, but without having the fork springs here I can't do a sufficient road test to see how the bike is performing.
I'm gonna keep my fingers crossed.
a proper carb synch is critical to the low speed performance of the engine.... if all the carbs arent drawing equally its gonna vibrate and run like crap.
I've found that I get the best carb sync when my bikes idling well ABOVE 1k. I usually sync around 1500-1700. When you're riding who cares if they're sync'd at 1000 rpm? Sync'd carbs at closer to running speed just work best for ME. The Fj is of course air cooled so have a fan blasting the front of your bike while you do this. It doesnt take long to do so you really won't overheat. Remember that carbs 1, 2 and 4 sync off of 3 so your bench idle set correctly on 3 is important if you wanna do the whole process quickly.
Keep in mind that this works best for MY bike(s).
Quote from: Ratchet_72 on April 03, 2009, 06:48:35 PM
Remember that carbs 1, 2 and 4 sync off of 3 so your bench idle set correctly on 3 is important if you wanna do the whole process quickly.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by this.
It means the syncing of the carbs is not done by adjusting the idle mixture screws. The sync is based on the vacuum found behind each carb butterfly at a idle or almost closed position; not the idle fuel mixture. The idle mixture screws should be adjust the same on all carbs. The syncing is completed by adjusting the screws on the carbs at the throttle shafts. #3 is the carb that is set to the main idle adjusting screw so that is your "base" carb as far as vacuum is concerned.
One issue that I see that you need to address is that the tool you made needs to have an atmospheric vent in order to work properly. I would add another tee in the middle of the two lines by your clamp and run another line up at act as the vent. Without the vent your reading will be hard to adjust because there is no vent. You will need to put small restrictor in all four lines. They all need to be identical in hole size. My set has a .030" hole and is pulling the heavy liquid mercury. You might have to have an even smaller restrictor is you are using water or oil as your liquid.
Good luck,
Randy - RPM
First off...lose the 4 hose setup and make a simple 2 hose unit (yours looks WAY too complicated):
http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp (http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp)
Just use two of the tubes and sync 1 to 2, 3 to 4, and 1 to 3.
I made one of those a while back and it works great! I modified the design slightly by using a 4ft 1"x4" board as a backing plate. I then used little staples to attach the yardstick and tubing to the board. I just screwed the thing to the wall of my garage and lengthened the tubing by about 12 feet on each side so that I can easily take the tubes over the either bike while the device hangs vibration free on the wall. I also used the lightest weight ATF fluid instead of oil. The lighter weight of fluid in it = the more accurate it is. It is many times more accurate than mercury or Morgan sets. Also, it is very easy to see from afar with the bright red ATF fluid. Works great! I think I spent something like $8.00 on mine...mainly because I put some vacuum dampeners inline to help reduce the pulsing.
I would set all of the 4 screws (the "Idle Mixture Screws") to the same setting...even though they didn't come that way from the factory. I would set them all to 2 turns out. Then get a good sync. Then adjust your main idle screw (underneath the carbs) so the bike idles around 1000 RPM. Then you can do the blip test on the Idle Mixture Screws to get them setup fairly correctly. Basically, you want to blip the throttle (say to 3 or 4K) and have the tack needle fall smoothly and exactly back to the 1000 RPM mark. You don't want it to fall back down too low and slowly raise up, or fall down fast (to say 1500 RPM) and slowly fall back to the 1K mark. Adjust accordingly. When you get good at doing the above...you can use your ear to tell when the carbs are perfectly synced while using the oil manometer for the general ballpark area. It is amazing how LITTLE you have to turn each screw to really fine tune it.
Sometimes it helps to balance the whole setup twice. The other thing I have learned over the years is that just warming up the bike in the garage and then balancing the carbs will result in a fairly crappy sync (the carbs body has to actually be HOT like it would be when you are riding it). I highly suggest actually riding the bike for 30 minutes, and then syncing the carbs....trust me, it can make a large difference when out riding.
Oh, one more thing, open up the throttle a bit while you sync. You will find that you may (I usually do) get two different readings. One when the throttle is closed, and one when it is open a bit. Sync to the reading when it is open a bit. The bike runs a hell of a lot better properly sync'd that way.
I read someplace that you want to synch the motor at about half the rpm of peak torque. That leaves it smoothest on average. It also works out to leave it smoothest at cruise rpm on an FJ. I set my idle up to 3500-4k or so when I do the synch, the homemade tools do work and are quite sensitive, but using the "real" tool is decidedly easier and faster.
You say the bike doesn't have much power under 4k or so. What's been done to it? With the typical stage3 mods, I know mine is pretty soft under 2krpm, though it'll wheelie at 3k with some effort. Also, don't expect the idle mixture screws to really do all that much, they run out of adjustment pretty quickly; generally you'll need to change the pilot jets to get an appreciable change.
If you're noticing this mostly from takeoff or otherwise when you're rolling into the gas at very low rpm, I'd wager that your pilot/idle circuit and synch are not at fault, your fuel/float height is likely to blame instead. What's been said about the blip test is correct and will help get those circuts right, but I'm not sure that they're where your issue really is.
I guess I should explain what the bike does from 1000 to 2500rpm to avoid any more confusion.
It essentially wants to bog down and shut off. Almost feels like a fuel starved condition. However, after that initial period right at take off it screams like a bat out of hell and is very responsive anywhere in the RPM range. It could be better, but the condition is essentially gone.
The only aftermarket modifications that I know about are a different set of cans (the PO said they were Viper?) I can only assume that maybe the jets were done at some point but I have no idea how I would know that for sure. I have the stock airbox on the bike when I notice the problem.
After the bike heats up a bit I noticed that the bogging problem lessens a bit but is still there if you mash the throttle or do a really quick blip. I've cleaned the hell out of the carbs but I suppose I could do it some more. I'm just at a loss at this point...it's not as easy as a Harley motor!!
I was told I could "bench" sync the carbs to get them close to proper sync by shining a light through the front of the carbs and under the butterfly. I guess what you essentially do is try your hardest to get the light output from under the butterfly to be the same across all of the carbs by adjusting the sync screws (or whatever they're called). This makes sense to me I suppose. When I first shined the light through, the butterflys were all in different positions, which I think means they're out of sync. So I eyeballed them all into the same relative position.
I haven't put the carbs back on the bike just yet, but I am hoping to get my springs tonight, so I may have the bike up and running by wednesday. I don't think the problem I am having is really a big one, but I'd love to have the bike running the way it's supposed to. I may take a video of the condition sometime this week...I'll post it up in this thread so you guys can hear what it's doing....who knows, that may help!!
Jon
How do the plugs look? If they are black then your fuel level may be too high. A high fuel level will let unmetered fuel in to the intake and cause the engine to respond badly during off-idle acceleration.
If the description is anything like this:
Idle will be okay, but when you try to accelerate the engine bogs badly but if you keep rolling the throttle, it clears out and it's like flipping a switch as the motor comes to life.
Then you need to look at the fuel level. It's really hard to screw the jetting up badly enough to cause this, that's why it's usually a bad float(s) or a level problem.
DavidR.
I have a "Sioux" brand vacuum testers used for checking cylinder heads and valves seat sealing. I use that tool to "bench" sync the carbs to get them in the ballpark. They still need to be sync when installed on the engine due to the difference in the valve settings and ring seal that creates the vacuum behind the throttle plate(s).
The bogging could be caused by with either to rich or too lean of an idle mixture. If too rich it can't burn all of the fuel and too lean it is starving.
I think it might be time to have the carbs cleaned and inspected to verify what you are actually working with. You might try and adjust until you are frustrated and still not get the results due to the improper part being installed.
Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
Randy - RPM
rpm@swaybar.com
So, I got my idle up to 1000RPMs but it kept on dropping below. After it dropped, when I blip the throttle, there's a hesitation present.
I did some research and found that I needed to do the carb cleaner/starter fluid test to check for any leaks between the carbs and the intake manifold. Well, lo and behold, when I sprayed the carb boots the idle increased to a little over 1000RPMs and the hesitation was gone.
So, if my estimation is correct, my problem is that I have an air/vacuum leak between the carbs and the intake manifold manifesting itself in the rubber boots that connect the two.
Sound about right??
well the rubber carb joints are what 20 years old? and i'm positive the o-rings that seal them to the head are completely flat by now..... i dunno.... there "might" be an issue there :bye2:
Haha....
Ya I just took them off. The o-rings are flatter than a six year old (is that joke considered taboo? If so, accept my apologies) and the part that seals around the carbs are cracked to shit.
Anyone know if someone has them cheaper than 100 bills?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-FJ1100-FJ1200-CARB-HOLDERS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35597QQihZ023QQitemZ360145898632 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-FJ1100-FJ1200-CARB-HOLDERS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35597QQihZ023QQitemZ360145898632)
Jon, I got my replacements from Georgefix (that guy on ebay).......could not find them anywhere else at the time so can't really comment on the price, but can tell you that those are good quality and well made. OH, and if you have a Japanese home market import model, the OEM throats are only 28mm, whereas these are the full 32mm deal.
Harvy
Quote from: Harvy on April 10, 2009, 05:56:46 PM
OH, and if you have a Japanese home market import model, the OEM throats are only 28mm, whereas these are the full 32mm deal.
Harvy
Hell, I have no idea which model my bike is...I just bought them too. I guess I can just hope that they're the right size!!
those carb joints will work just fine...... nice price on them. :good2:
FYI, I can get carb manifolds for $100.00.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on April 14, 2009, 05:12:08 PM
FYI, I can get carb manifolds for $100.00.
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy, but I just got them in the mail today. Only cost about $100 from ebay so I guess that's not too bad. It seems that's the going price for them...which seems a little on the high end, but whatever.
I'll update tonight to let you guys know tonight if they solved my problem. :dash2:
So, I got the carbs back on the bike. It's running noticeably better and I believe the vacuum problem is resolved. However, it still has a little bit of a hesitation when blipping and the idle is still a little south of 1000RPMs even with the idle screws and set to where I believe they need to be.
So, in my estimation, I think the carbs are still going to need a bit of work. The bike makes all kinds of power above that 1500 to 2000 RPM mark and is fast as hell, but I feel if I want to complete this thing and eventually if I want to sell it, the issue at idle needs to be resolved. I am thinking of maybe rebuilding the carbs completely and getting some new jets, but I'll have to do some more research or maybe even take it to a Yamaha or import guy to have it checked out...but that makes my stomach upset to say the least :bad:
All in good time.
I owe you all a beer or two, so if you're in Houston, let me know!! :drinks:
the hesitation can be tuned out using the idle mix screws....
you have synched the carbs on the bike?
I haven't yet synced the carbs on the bike yet. I made a carb sync tool, but the bike just froths the oil up when I hook it up. I need to put restrictors in the lines and it might work...but I should probably just buy the damn professional tool.
Do you think a carb syn would get rid of that problem? I have tried messing with the idle mixture screws a ton but can't seem to get rid of the hesitation. I think I am currently 3.25 turns out, and that's where I found the best idle. I started at 2.5 and worked up by .25 turns each time. I never went below 2.5 turns though...
Dude, this makes me think you didn't pay ANY attention to my previous post in this topic...back on page 1. I put a bit of work into it for you...read it...do it. It will solve your problem...I also addressed your carb sync tool...scrap it and do what I said...you don't need to pay for a "professional" tool. But...whatever...
Quote from: drawkward on April 14, 2009, 11:24:08 PM
I haven't yet synced the carbs on the bike yet.
nothing you do is going to work without synching the carbs on the bike..... and 3.25 turns on the mix screws is too much
you cannot skip step one and go directly to step two.... it doesn't work like that.
Quote from: Marsh White on April 15, 2009, 12:01:24 AM
Dude, this makes me think you didn't pay ANY attention to my previous post in this topic...back on page 1. I put a bit of work into it for you...read it...do it. It will solve your problem...I also addressed your carb sync tool...scrap it and do what I said...you don't need to pay for a "professional" tool. But...whatever...
I feel like I'm in grade school getting yelled at by one of the Nuns. :biggrin: I planned on doing the carb sync as soon as I can figure out what the hell to use as a vacuum arrestor because I can't find line that small. As I said in my previous post, the "carbs are still going to need a bit of work" which includes syncing them. I didn't even ask for any more advice in that post, not that I don't welcome it always from all of you guys, cause I do for sure. If my posting updates on my bike and the small struggle I am having with it bothers you, don't read them. :pardon:
You may be able to find the restrictors you need at...believe it or not...a pet store that sells aquarium supplies.
Rossi
Quote from: rlucas on April 15, 2009, 02:35:00 PM
You may be able to find the restrictors you need at...believe it or not...a pet store that sells aquarium supplies.
Rossi
Ahhh. I never thought of that. I went to the ACE by my house, which typically has enough of a selection to be able to build your own steam powered time machine, but I couldn't find any. Thanks for the heads up!!
And all I'm saying is exactly what Frank said: you can't skip step 1 and go to step 2. That's all! You're still complaining about the bike running bad at low RPM and even talking about maybe taking it into a shop and paying money...all WITHOUT having synced the carbs. No negativity intended...just trying to help! :good2:
Oh, and I picked up my vacuum restricters things up at Pep Boys - I would think that any NAPA, Autozone type store should have them...you'll probably have to look hard, but they should be there somewhere. I never saw them at a hardware store.
Understood. I was under the impression that the vacuum leaks due to the bad boots were the collective culprit as the bike ran great using the old starter fluid trick. After I replaced them, I realized more carb work is needed...and I stated that. I never said I wasn't going to do the sync as everyone had originally told me to do, I was just saying I hadn't done it yet. After I got the boots on is when I started messing with the idle screws again (after it was bench synced too), thinking that the vacuum problem and hence my loss of power problem would be resolved. It obviously wasn't. And that maybe I'd have to take it to someone if I can't figure it out. Which again, makes me want to puke.
I understand you guys know your stuff when it comes to these great machines. But I do know how to follow directions. I'm an engineer after all. I just wanted to update you guys is all. I am a firm believer that forums are the best vaults of knowledge on the internet (besides a good porn site!) and my train of thought updates are my little contribution.
On topic:
I'm gonna have to jet out of work early to get those restricters from auto zone or the pet store tonight, cause at 6pm Ron Paul is going to be speaking at some Tax Day Tea party near my house and I'm dying to go. I just hope it all gets done before too late cause I want to get those carbs synced. If I can find restrictors I'm going to try my 4 hose setup again...I mean, I spent the time building it, so why not see if it works (got the design from someone who liked it better than a pro one). If it doesn't I'll hack it to pieces and try the two line version for sure.
I'll hopefully have an update tonight if not tomorrow. I'll try to take pics for archiving purposes as I'm sure someone in the future may find it useful. (not sure if anyone has taken pics of a sync job on an FJ before).
Thanks again!! :drinks:
the screws on top of the carbs (right at the carb joints) are not idle screws..... they are idle MIXTURE screws and a base setting 2.5 turns out to start with.
the one and only idle screw is underneath the carbs as they sit on the bike.
you do know where the synch adjustment screws are?
Sorry my carburetor lexicon isn't up to par. I assure you I know the difference between an idle mixture screw and an idle adjustment screw.
And yes, I do know where the sync adjustment screws are.
Thanks
FWIW, the so-called "restrictors" on the Morgan CarbTune are nothing more than a quarter-inch insert with a tiny hole in it, drilled longitudinally. About the size of a hypodermic needle. Cut hose, install restrictor. Done.
The Morgan's a bit pricey, but IMHO well worth the cost. I'm a cheapskate, but I try not to cheap out on tools. The Morgan works better than any homemade rig or mercury manometer that I've ever used. Worth the money...if you intend to use it regularly.
It's cool, and you can charge your friends. "Balance your carbs? Sure...twelve pack and lunch." :D
Rossi
That's not a bad idea Rossi. I don't drink, but I can get some good chinese out of it. Speaking of which... :nyam2:
I went ahead and did the carb sync and got it pretty close to center across all the lines. But, to no avail. The bike still has the low end bog when I blip the throttle. I'm going to go ahead and do it again tomorrow because my brain is fried right now and maybe I overlooked something.
I was cool seeing the carb sync tool actually working though I must say.
What I really like about the Morgan is how fits in a tiny little case. Don't have to have some huge wooden plank with tubes and junk.
Quote from: MyFirstNameIsPaul on April 16, 2009, 12:07:04 AM
What I really like about the Morgan is how fits in a tiny little case. Don't have to have some huge wooden plank with tubes and junk.
Haha, I can see the advantage there. I didn't feel like cutting the board I had in two so I just kicked it in half. The Morgan would definitely have been cleaner.
I finally got the carbs sync'd and the idle mixture screws set correctly and bike is still bogging a bit during the blip test and during the first minute or so of warming up. After total warm up it idles nicely but is still a tad rough.
I took the carbs off again and cleaned them out entirely by taking all the jets out and running some guitar string through them and the usual carb cleaner (again, I think this is the fourth time). I figured out an interesting fact about the jets that makes me think I may have found the problem. Each jet seems to be the stock size across the board (37.5 pilot /110 main). When I bought the bike I was told that the mufflers were aftermarket but I can't remember what specific brand he thought they were and there is no indication of brand on the mufflers. And frankly I don't think it really matters. What does matter is that I think I may need to rejet the carbs to make up for what I can imagine is a loss in back pressure. When I decided to take the muffler off my Buell and run straight pipe, I noticed a slight loss in power through the rev range and I know for a fact that the stage one/two jet kit for the Harley CV or perhaps going to the 42mm Mikuni solves that problem. I can only imagine that the same is true for this bike. I have no power loss through the rev so I think my main jets may be fine, but I feel that the pilot circuit may be running lean, no matter where my mixture is set.
Any thoughts?
p.s. Even with the carb problems, I like this bike more and more each day. This thing is full of power. I just need to get a 17 on the rear!!
Every big-bore sportbike made in the '80s and early '90s was jetted lean at idle and off-idle carb settings for emissions reduction. I put the DynoJet air correction jets(smaller than stock) and #40 pilot jets in my '90 and she's very happy now....
I currently have the S&S exhaust, UNI airbox insert, DJ needles(Grv2) and 114(I think) MJ. A Dyna 2K ignition module and coils light it off.
Quote from: drawkward on April 21, 2009, 07:22:20 PM
I finally got the carbs sync'd and the idle mixture screws set correctly and bike is still bogging a bit during the blip test and during the first minute or so of warming up. After total warm up it idles nicely but is still a tad rough.
Any thoughts?
4 cylinders need a warm up and the FJ is
especially cold-blooded, so it will not pass the blip test until its totally warmed up. After adjusting the mix screws especially on carb 3 you're gonna wanna resync. If all 4 carbs mix screws are not set exactly the same don't worry about it too much. When you hit the sweet spot and it passes the blip test who cares if one carbs screws are out 3 turns and another is 2.5 turns out. Again this works for me. It may or may not work for you.
Make damn sure all your vacuum hoses are good/not cracked and plugs on the carb holders are holding vacuum. The stupidest shit will trip you up and you'll find you didnt even need to pull your carbs that 5th and 6th time. Yeah I've done that a million times.
Again warm up on this bike is crucial. These bikes are over 20 years old for F*&ks sake. They get grumpy quicklike. 8)
Rich:
I need to do some research on what is available for these carburetors cause I am unsure of what the air correction jet does or how that specific jet helps. I think I also need to look through some documentation on the different mods you guys have done with these things. I don't know what the UNI airbox insert is, DJ needles or what ignition modules are available. But what you've mentioned sounds like a bunch of small things one can do to bump performance significantly. Thanks!
Ratchet:
I think I misspoke when I was talking about the warm up. When I did the carb sync, I rode the bike for about 15 to 20 minutes beforehand to warm it up as was suggested earlier in the thread. That made a huge difference and I was able to sync rather easily (minus the problems I had with leaks in my sync tool which I fixed). However, one thing I didn't do was reset the sync after adjusting the mixture screws. So I'm going to try that again. I also didn't think to adjust the mixture screws independently of each other. I always thought they should be set together. I'll try that too and hope that I can get the bog out, but I have a feeling that it won't work. Who knows though. If it does, fuck ya. If not, I'll get some jets or something.
Thanks for the suggestions :drinks:
The UNI insert is just a UniFilter replacement for the stock air filter. No big deal.
As far as jet kits go, I'm a huge proponent of Factory Pro over DynoJet (DJ) or Cobra...same thing, actually. But the DJ\Cobra kits use proprietary jet sizing...the Factory Pro kits use genuine Mikuni jets. I've used the FP kits on 3 bikes and they've always been spot-on.
If you're running the stock exhaust, stock airbox...Factory Pro Config 10.
Factory exhaust with pod filters (a lot of us have done this...) FP Config 20.
Aftermarket exhaust and pods...FP Config 30.
IIRC. Which is somewhat unlikely, usually. If you spring for the Config 30 kit, it comes with all the bits from the other two, so you're set for future mods.
It made a huge difference in how cleanly the FJ ran.
Rossi
Thanks for the heads up Rossi.
I am guessing since I have stock airbox and aftermarket exhaust I should just go ahead and get the pod filters then run the config 30. I don't see any good reason not to have pod filters, so that's most likely what I'll do.
Have you checked the fuel level yet?
DavidR.
A wise man once taught me to always begin with the simple stuff. Frequently, it is the root of the problem. No fuel, blown fuse, unpluggerd connector, no bulb...
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on April 27, 2009, 04:01:47 PM
Have you checked the fuel level yet?
DavidR.
I looked into it on a few different sites but from what I read about the symptoms I didn't think it was necessary. I could be wrong though.
Mike:
I couldn't agree more. I don't always follow that though, to my own demise.
Just thought I'd throw out an update.
After about a minute and a half of warm up (two clicks out on enrichener to start, throttle, one click out and ride for a minute then not enrichener) the bike runs like a champ. I've been running Lucas oil and some seafoam through every other tank to add fidelity and extra cleaning for a while. I still think I need to re-jet it, but the blip test when warmed up goes smoothly.
Thanks for all the previous, and I'm sure future, help you guys gave me.
:drinks:
thanks for sugestions.
I'll try some restrictors and motor oil in a 2 carb sinc.
will report soon.