After having a great riding year, I have had this issue with smoke at start-up only when it's cold. After changing and checking the valve seals initially and after viewing the valves before start-up, it has been determined that the valve guides themselves are leaking. Thanks for Randy for his help and soon some parts I will need.
My question: Are there any hints to taking out the motor (Besides read the manual) that may help so I can start this project?
Chicago, IL
Dean
Just did my trans on my 85 so the motor came out.I did mine by myself and it would have saved me a lot of time if i had a couple more sets of hands.I used a bunch of 2x4s and scrap wood.I stacked it all up under the motor and removed a piece at a time while manuvering the motor down and out of the frame.Installing when I was done I stood it on end rotated it in under the frame then used a tie down strap some 2x4s and a hydraulic jack to raise it back in.Thats when some extra hands would have been nice.Gravity helps on the way down extra hands would help going back in.
Dean, do you really need to remove the motor? You can R/R the head with the engine in place. Pat
Actually you could probably leave the head on and manage.
Fill the cylinder with smallish nylon rope, and have a helper hold pressure on it while you take the keepers out and slide new seals down the valves. It'd be tricky, but not bad if you're afraid of pulling the head.
If you're okay pulling the head, should be doable in the frame without too much effort, unless something ends up stuck and you need it exposed more to get the leverage you need on it.
If you do end up dropping the motor, be sure to remove the bracket that the collector bolts to at the back of the motor. It will get hung up on the frame and make things more difficult.
See next post...
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 10, 2010, 11:12:00 AM
Dean, do you really need to remove the motor? You can R/R the head with the engine in place. Pat
Quote from: andyb on November 10, 2010, 11:31:49 AM
Actually you could probably leave the head on and manage.
If you're okay pulling the head, should be doable in the frame without too much effort, unless something ends up stuck and you need it exposed more to get the leverage you need on it.
Are you guys saying that I can remove the head to replace the valve guides (Not valve seals) without removing the motor?
I did the valve seals with the rope idea twice, but it didn't help with the smoking at cool startup.
Oh, misread that.
You'll be pulling the head definitely to do the guides themselves. But that's doable in the frame. It clears but not by much. If memory serves, it's the cylinders that are more difficult to get off in the frame. You can cheat a bit by removing all but the rear lower mount (I think, it makes sense when you're looking at it, honest) and using a jack to prop the front up a bit higher than usual. Otherwise there's some clips that end up in the way. But I think that's only for the cylinders, the head itself is a pretty easy job to get out with the motor solidly mounted.
Quote from: andyb on November 10, 2010, 11:31:49 AM
Actually you could probably leave the head on and manage.
Fill the cylinder with smallish nylon rope, and have a helper hold pressure on it while you take the keepers out and slide new seals down the valves. It'd be tricky, but not bad if you're afraid of pulling the head.
If you're okay pulling the head, should be doable in the frame without too much effort, unless something ends up stuck and you need it exposed more to get the leverage you need on it.
I've used that method to do seals.... be kinda tricky to do the
guides, though. :drinks:
Quote from: andyb on November 10, 2010, 01:40:28 PM
Oh, misread that.
You'll be pulling the head definitely to do the guides themselves. But that's doable in the frame. It clears but not by much. If memory serves, it's the cylinders that are more difficult to get off in the frame. You can cheat a bit by removing all but the rear lower mount (I think, it makes sense when you're looking at it, honest) and using a jack to prop the front up a bit higher than usual. Otherwise there's some clips that end up in the way. But I think that's only for the cylinders, the head itself is a pretty easy job to get out with the motor solidly mounted.
Thanks Andy,
I will try to pull the head with the motor still in the frame. If anyone else wants to chime in, feel free. Advise is welcome.
does anyone have a simple set of instructions with pictures on changing the valve guides???
no ? (hint hint europe50 .... :yes: )
Use heat, use cold, in appropriate places. Reverse the temps on the way in. Let it settle, and hone to size.
But on a 16v head, honestly, take to machine shop and not screw with it yourself.
For future reference, or if you decide to remove the engine:
Build a wooden stand that will hold the engine in place when it's unbolted from the frame. Then go rent an engine hoist and use 4 tie-downs on the handlebars/frame and lift the frame off the engine. Works great for installation too.
I was able to R&R my engine with no outside help and minimal time.
I was also able to pull the head on my '85 with the motor in the frame
DavidR..