hi everyone,
in the quest of eliminating vibrations and after carb sycn with little or no effect,
now it's time for the engine mounts lube thing...
read fjflyer exelent info on yahoo groups (my thanks) but still some doubts...
sould I remove bolts on each side one at a time to prevent engine from falling?
Do I really need to remove the rubber axle? (the third bolt at bottom)
Why not keeping it during procedure to hold engine?
There should exist some thightning/retaining small bolt for this axle at the right side of the engine frame?
It seems to be missing...
thanks
The engine won't go anywhere when you remove the front mounts. There are 2 other mounts still holding it in place.
DavidR.
^ Assuming they're still there!! Never trust the prior owner(s)!
Should be held by two at the rear (top and bottom) though. Might shift if they're loose/worn/buggered but shouldn't be too bad, just may make sticking things back together a pinch harder. Stick a jack under the motor if you're concerned.
Quote from: las1200 on November 06, 2010, 07:38:36 PM
Do I really need to remove the rubber axle? (the third bolt at bottom)
Why not keeping it during procedure to hold engine?
There should exist some thightning/retaining small bolt for this axle at the right side of the engine frame?
It seems to be missing...
thanks
How about this?
Maybe the translation, but I have no idea what you're trying to describe.
1 Picture = 1,000 words (popcorn)
I'm not sure what you are referring to with the 'third bolt at bottom'. I followed these directions:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=594.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=594.0)
You have to build the tool (see link) that will pull the collar out of the engine mount, not the bushing in the frame. I would do one side at a time, the engine won't fall out. Once out clean up the collar, apply grease liberally and the collar will slide into the engine mount and be able to rotate easily which is the way it's supposed to work.
It takes a little work, but definitely worth the time.
maybe confusing, ok, sorry.
already removed bolts and going to do collar removal.
Those damn bolts were very very hard to remove! :mad:
My wrenches (low grade) didn't survived the job. See photo. had to to buy new good ones...
Did 1st version of tool but failled due to soft metal bolt. Tomorow will try with new hard metal bolt.
All looks very siezed witch may explain vibrations on bike. :yes:
The bolt I mentioned in my first post can see seen below...
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=1569 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=1569)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=1570 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=1570)
And here my poor tools...
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=1571 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=1571)
Sorry, still learning to post images. Don't know yet.
Ahhh, those bolts. They don't need to be removed for this.
I found that I was able to break the collar free by using a properly sized drift and a very proper hammer.
I too mangled the threads on a homemade puller tool first.
Now you know your tools are not up to the job. :-) Good excuse to get decent quality tools.
You don't need to buy most expensive, but you do need tools that will last a lifetime.
Cheers,
Arnie
You're wright Arnie,
Tried with a bigger and harder bolt in the tool and it didn't move (the collar) at all!
Bolt survided but nothing happened.
I will try to hammer it out as you did. Any special suggestion? on that drifter and hammer?
thanks
After removing the two bolts on each side I soaked the collars with penetrating oil and let them sit overnight. It was still a challenge to get them to move, but I think it helped. Patience.
50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF is a GREAT penetrating oil. (don't smoke while using it and try to not breathe the fumes)
I used an appropriately sized deep socket on a 1/2" 6" extension as my "drift". More to "shock" the collar free and break the corrosion holding it than to "press" it out.
Arnie
Thanks guys for help.
Did pretty much the way you said, Arnie. :good2:
Left collar was REALLY hard to come out. Right was easy.
Greased all very well and fitted everything back together.
Tomorow will test it.
stay tunned...
Test ride made.
Big difference for the better! :good2:
from 3000revs and up no more vibrations. Smooth as silk.
Idle ok as well.
Yet some considerable vibrations mainly at 2000.
Any further suggestions?
Yep! On 91+ FJ's don't ride below 3000 rpm.
Arnie
Quote from: las1200 on November 12, 2010, 06:28:35 PM
Test ride made.
Big difference for the better! :good2:
from 3000revs and up no more vibrations. Smooth as silk.
Idle ok as well.
Yet some considerable vibrations mainly at 2000.
Any further suggestions?
Quote from: Arnie on November 12, 2010, 07:38:48 PM
Yep! On 91+ FJ's don't ride below 3000 rpm.
Arnie
+1..... try a downshift :good2:
kookaloo!
Is it the same process for my 86'? I know the setup is different, but it looks like i have a similar collar setup... Has anyone serviced their mounts on earlier FJ's?
Thanks!
The pre-91 generations don't have rubber mounted engines like the later ones do. Never hurts to take something apart to clean and fix it, but you're not going to see huge gains in vibration reduction on the older machines.
Thats not what I wanted to hear...
After about an hour of trying to get the stupid left engine mount out of my '86, I am stuck. The right one is rubber, so it slid right out, but the left one is a whole different animal. I tried hitting it lightly with a hammer, hitting it hard with a hammer, hitting it with a sludge hammer, spitting at it, cussing at it, spraying it with WD40, and belittling it, but it will not come out :dash1:. So, I have a couple of questions:
1) Has anyone removed an the left engine mount from an earlier model (I believe '87 and earlier)? ( how did you do it?)
2) did it help the vibration? Is it even supposed to move?
3) I noticed the right engine mount is made of rubber, could I just get two left engine mounts, put one on the right, one on the left? Then I would have rubber engine mounts.
All of this is spawning from the fact that i have some pretty intense vibration coming from the left side of the bike. I have synced the crap out of the carbs, so I know that isn't the problem. Also, I am sure it comes from the engine (not the chain or the front wheel or anything else).
Please help. Thanks
Nothing?
Quote from: mijohnso on November 13, 2010, 03:39:07 PM
Thats not what I wanted to hear...
After about an hour of trying to get the stupid left engine mount out of my '86, I am stuck. The right one is rubber, so it slid right out, but the left one is a whole different animal. I tried hitting it lightly with a hammer, hitting it hard with a hammer, hitting it with a sludge hammer, spitting at it, cussing at it, spraying it with WD40, and belittling it, but it will not come out :dash1:. So, I have a couple of questions:
1) Has anyone removed an the left engine mount from an earlier model (I believe '87 and earlier)? ( how did you do it?)
2) did it help the vibration? Is it even supposed to move?
3) I noticed the right engine mount is made of rubber, could I just get two left engine mounts, put one on the right, one on the left? Then I would have rubber engine mounts.
All of this is spawning from the fact that i have some pretty intense vibration coming from the left side of the bike. I have synced the crap out of the carbs, so I know that isn't the problem. Also, I am sure it comes from the engine (not the chain or the front wheel or anything else).
Please help. Thanks
No, you can't add another rubber mount to your bike. The later models have a completely different frame, including bigger side spars.
Check
all the frame cradle bolts for breakage and proper torque.
Check
all the engine mount bolts for breakage and proper torque.
This likely will turn up the source of the problem.
Randy T
Indy
Quote from: mijohnso on November 13, 2010, 03:39:07 PM
1) Has anyone removed an the left engine mount from an earlier model (I believe '87 and earlier)? ( how did you do it?)
2) did it help the vibration? Is it even supposed to move?
3) I noticed the right engine mount is made of rubber, could I just get two left engine mounts, put one on the right, one on the left? Then I would have rubber engine mounts.
1) yes! with mapp gas heat and an air hammer. it was scary, was afraid the entire mount boss might break (ruined case). but it didn't :good2:
2) yes! not sure if it was meant to be free-floating or not..
3) well, sorta. the RF rubber engine mount will fit the LF... however there are 2 more solid aluminum bushings used on the rear upper mounts. they're smaller than the other mounts, so I shaved the ribs off of new mounts and slid them right in. Now the engine is rubber mounted.
I don't recommend this if you are doing FJ trackdays, as the engine is allowed to float around a little bit. I'm fairly certain that they put these bushings on the drive side for a reason... but its been 20,000 miles or so and everything is fine, and no chain issues.
It was worth it. :good2: