Anyone know if the front forks from an 02-03 R1 will fit on the '89 FJ1200??
There's a set for sale on Craigslist and I'd love to get them if they'd fit. The forks on my FJ right now are bottomed out (that's how I bought it) and it's got to be the sketchiest bike I've ever ridden because of it.
Thanks a lot!
Jon
Tear them apart and see why they're bottomed out?
Anything will fit if you put enough energy/money into it....
not as a direct bolt on. no.
why not fix yours?
Well, I planned on fixing them, or at least getting them fixed. Total if I get someone to do it is going to be around $200. If another set of forks bolted up I'd rather just do that if it was cheaper. I guess that's the driving factor...money.
The original forks that are on there don't seem to be leaking any oil whatsoever, but I guess it's possible that all of it leaked out or that the springs internal to the fork are bad. I've just never worked on forks before and am a little hesitant to jump into the process without any prior knowledge...know what I mean?
But what do you guys think...I have mechanical knowledge on motorcycles...but forks I've never actually done. How hard is it?
I have the forks ready to slide out of the triple right now, I just don't know anything about the internals.
Thanks for the quick responses too, this forum is pretty awesome.
nothing to working on the forks..... i think you should go into them.....a new set of fork springs is right at 100 bucks.......
if you have any questions you can always ask here.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Ya....I think that's a good point. Well, it didn't take too much pushing to get me to do it.
After work I guess I'm gonna tear them apart. Does the front fairing need to be taken off? Any sage advice anyone can offer is whole-heartedly accepted and welcomed!
Hi Jon,well as one of the fellows has said a set of springs are about $100. While the forks are still on the bike (or at least while you still have the springs under tension) get your impact wrench if ya have one and the proper size socket head (allen) socket and break the bolts loose in the recess at the bottom of each leg. Then you can loosen the caps on the top of each leg ( they'll be under spring pressure so be careful!) It takes a fairly large tool to loosen and unscrew the caps on top.I've made a tool out of the proper sized metric bolt & nut brazed or welded together. Ya may as well replace the seals while your at it and drop the stem (bottom triple tree) and clean and check the tapered roller bearings. Repack them with a good quality wheel bearing grease. Make sure you snug the bearings to a point where there is no"play" in them but don't over tighten them. Good luck! Paul
if the seals arent leaking you dont have to take the forks apart to change the fork springs..... you just have to take the top caps off..... dont remove the fairing just loosen the pinch bolts on the upper (makes it a bit easier if you loosen the fork top caps before you loosen the lower pinch bolts and slide the forks out.... tie up the brake calipers so they dont hang by the lines.
once you get the top caps off the springs just slide right out.... turn the forks upside down and pump all the oil out.
replace oil with some good 10 wt fork oil.... 6" from the top of the fork tube with the forks collapsed.... slide new springs in (you will probably want 10-15mm of preload)
replace fork top caps.... re install forks on bike.
easy peasy :good2:
Frank
Hey guys. I got the forks off pretty easily.
For the sake of archiving what the top cap tool should look like, here are some pictures of mine:
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g278/jcy123/100_2992.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g278/jcy123/100_2993.jpg)
(please excuse the sloppy welding, I only started a month ago)
As for the forks themselves....one of them came apart fine. All the seals look good to me, as far as I can tell. But the other fork had a problem. However, I don't know how the hell it happened or if it caused the forks to bottom out. Maybe you guys can help diagnose it. It seems the rod that is attached to the endcap has managed to free itself from the little notched hole it is supposed to reside in and wedge itself in one of the slots on the outer ring. I'm unsure how this could happen as I bought the bike as-is. I haven't tried to dislodge it as I wanted to confer with you guys first. Anyways, enough talking...here are the pics:
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g278/jcy123/100_2990.jpg)
Here's the entire fork assembly with the spring:
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g278/jcy123/100_2991.jpg)
Thanks in advance for any help!
Looks like PO had the forks apart already... The rod goes into the D-shaped hole in the center of the adjuster(in the damper rod). he didn't get it in the right hole, so it prob'ly puts the fork in a bind. Put it back together correctly and it'll prob'ly work as it should.
I'd replace the springs anyways, they are only marginal for an FJ, and the correct, straight-rate springs make a HUGE difference in the way she handles...
Good observation Rich! Yeah, it is kinda a bitch to get that rod in the right hole.
Quote from: Marsh White on March 31, 2009, 10:16:32 PM
Good observation Rich! Yeah, it is kinda a bitch to get that rod in the right hole.
its worse than a bitch to get that rod in :dash2: and the way that one was in the pics i'm sure it was binding the fork......
i cant believe the bike was even close to rideable like that
KOokaloo! :yahoo:
Frank
Thanks. I've come to expect this type of fast knowledge from you guys.
I was planning on buying these progressive springs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200317021866&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200317021866&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123)
But you guys think I should get a straight rate spring instead? Where would I go about finding these as no one on Ebay sells them from what I can tell. Is there a good place to shop for the FJ?
Thanks again
Yes, if you are spending the money anyway, you should DEFINETLY get the straight rate springs...maybe a touch more money...if that. The FJ is just too damn heavy to make the progressive springs any good. The main company that makes the straight rate springs is Race Tech: http://www.racetech.com/ (http://www.racetech.com/)
I don't know where the cheapest place to buy them is...LOTS of places sell them...pretty much any MC dealer in the US. Others can help you with the correct rate for your weight, but 1.0kg is a good neutral.
I don't know why no one else has brought it up but you should up date the forks with Race Tech emluators(it damm near makes cartrage forks out of the 1930s damper rods) It's $170 well spent. :good2:
And it's still cheeper than the $360 for the compression & rebound valves + oil & small parts for my FZ1 forks :wacko1:
Do it once and do it right.
Ha! Good job welding up the the fork cap nut! FYI: The rear axle nut is the PERFECT size for front fork caps. You can take the rear axle out and use a pin, screw or nail to keep the nut from turning (like the cotter pin), and a socket wrench on the other smaller side of the axle end! I have a spare axle with the nut this way just for this purpose...but then again...I do NOT have a welder or any experience with it. You did it much better...
I think because I have until the end of April to get this thing running, I'm going to buy some fork oil after work and assemble the forks with the old springs to see if the rod being out of place was the culprit. I saw that racetech springs are only $110, which isn't that much at all for a new suspension! I'd just like to know that something else isn's bad too before I go ordering stuff. I'll keep you guys updated.
Marsh:
The bolt and nut I used were 3/4 SAE, so I had to grind it down a bit. The ACE hardware by me didn't have any metric that big. As for the welder, it's probably one of the best thing I have in my garage besides my motorcycles. I've already chopped the tail on my Buell and cleaned it up, welded gussets for frame sliders on the Buell, and my buddy is using it to convert his Sportster to a hardtail with it this and next week. It's a tool you'll have your entire life. Even though it sets you back a little on the money side at first, it pays for itself very quickly.
tqmx1:
I saw the cartridge emulators on RaceTech and I'm not gonna lie, installing that setup scares me a bit as I don't have any experience with suspension...although I guess I could man-up and do it. My friend will be taking the FJ on a near 2500 mile trip at the end of April with me and if I get negative feedback about the suspension I'll definitely look into it.
Quote from: drawkward on March 31, 2009, 11:53:39 PM
Thanks. I've come to expect this type of fast knowledge from you guys.
I was planning on buying these progressive springs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200317021866&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200317021866&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123)
But you guys think I should get a straight rate spring instead? Where would I go about finding these as no one on Ebay sells them from what I can tell. Is there a good place to shop for the FJ?
Thanks again
you wont be happy with those progressive springs..... they use the same springs to fit a ton of different bikes... most of them way lighter than the FJ..... i had some and they needed a lot of preload to get the correct ride height... less than a year later they had sacked out and i bought some straight rate springs to replace them.....trust me the straight rate springs are the best money spent on the forks.
traxxion dynamics or race tech have what you really want.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Ok, I said screw it and ordered the RaceTech 1.0Kg springs for the bike. They're shipping today on UPS ground form Cali, so if God loves me they'll be here on Saturday.
You won't have any problems. With the number of people and the instructions it will not be a big deal. :good:
So, I'm hoping the springs will show up tomorrow sometime so I can get this thing back on the road.
I have a question though. I'm a pretty bulky guy at 260lbs. Would it hurt putting in a heavier weight oil (20wt)?
The guys at a local motorcycle shop said I'd be fine with it but I'd rather take your collective word on it instead of someone at a shop.
Thanks
no 20 wt. you want the forks to move...... the springs are what holds the weight up the oil just dampens the actions of the springs.
since the oil has to flow thru orifices in the damper rod you want it thin enough to allow the fork to move easy over smaller bumps..... heavy oil will essentially lock the fork when you hit bumps because the oil cannot move thru the small holes quickly enough..
10 wt should be fine..... 6 " from the top with the springs out and forks collapsed.
Makes sense, I just wasn't sure how big a difference there was between 10 and 20wt. I'll go pick up some 10wt tomorrow morning.
Thanks for the reply.
when installing the springs try and get your static sag right by adjusting the length of the spring spacer that will come with the springs (about 30- 35% of the total travel with you on the bike ) then you can feel things out with the fork oil.....if the bike is pogo'ing around go up to 15wt ( i personally would not go any heavier than that maximum) but i personally think you will be happy with the 10wt and the 1.0kg springs... that setup will deliver about as plush a ride as the FJ is capable of in stock form.
KOokaloo! :good2:
I class it as the 3Ps Plush / Planted & Perdictable :good2:
UPDATE:
Ok, the forks are back on the bike.
I installed the racetech springs today and there is new life-blood in the front forks. I measured out the spacers the way racetech suggests and I believe everything went ok.
The bike now has a nice new front suspension. However, I am still noticing some front end wobble during just about any corner. I am pretty confident that I installed the springs correctly (it's kind of a no brainer) and I used the 10wt fork oil that you guys suggested measured to the correct amount per the manual. Is this a property of the bike I should get used to or am I missing something??
Thanks for all the help so far!!
EDIT::I don't notice the wobble any other time I am riding the bike. I've had it up to 135mph (per the speedometer) and it was solid as a rock.
How many miles are on your front tire? and was it run under inflated. Eather one can make the front end feel REAL strange.
If there is any question change it out and start out with somthing fresh :good:
I literally have no idea about the history of the front tire besides the PO telling me that it didn't have "that many" miles on it, around 400 or so. It looks good and has plenty of tread. I've lost my tire gauge so I'll have to wait until morning to check the pressure. I've read elsewhere that low pressure is sometimes the culprit. The tire calls for 42 PSI so I will go off of that and see where it's at.
Whoa! 42psi is pretty high for an FJ front tire. I actually run 36; but I think most FJers run 38 on the front...
if the tire is old it can have the same kind of feeling....
have you adjusted the steering head bearings on this bike?
try the 45 MPH coast down test..... (in a straight line) roll up to about 50mph roll off the throttle....loosen your grip on the bars (dont let go completely) and see if the handlbars/front end trys to wobble.... if it does then your head bearings could be too loose....bad tire and loose head bearings give the same kind of feeling..... JMO and you dont have to but its probably time for a repack the head bearings with grease anyway.....trust me its a lot easier to grease them than it is to replace them.... especially the lower head bearing race.. its not fun.
the easiest test if you dont want to risk the dreaded coast down death wobble is to lift the front end clear of the ground.... make sure there are no cables or hoses binding the steering movement. from steering center gently push the handle bars to the right .....the bar should just go to the stop and not bounce back off the steering stop. try the same thing to the left side.... they should flop easily just to the steering stop with no bounce back.
tighten adjuster nut until you get the desired results....after getting the "flop" right check for any notchiness or tight spots in the full range of bar movement....also be sure and dont tighten too tight as that can cause a serious weave in the chassis that is not very pleasant to experience.
these FJ's have few quirks but we know about all of them... once adressed you're gonna have fun
KOokaloo! :good2:
The PSI 'rating' is for max load. I can't imagine running tires that hard. Seems like it would be very dangerous and unstable in the corners, and especially dangerous in the rain. I run Michelin Pilot Street in the front, usually around 32 PSI.
MAX pressure :good2:
it's the only way to fly
drawkward,
Tire pressure should be 36 psi front and 42 psi rear, or pretty close to that.
Also, since you've had the forks off while working on them, make sure that all the clamp bolts and the axle nut are tight, and that the steering bearings are properly set.
Cheers,
Arnie
TIRE PRESSUUUUUUUUUUUUUURE!!!!
Front was at 20psi -_-
I got it up to 35 and it handles much better with no wobble. The rear was at 30psi a week ago and when I checked it this morning it was at 20. So I'm thinking I have a leak or something to that affect. I filled it up to around 35psi.
I guess the rear still needs more so I'll take care of that after work.
Thanks for the help guys.
Glad to see you get this working properly. Nothing like a fresh suspension, set up correctly. Nice work!
I must admit, I cringed when I read that you has 'lost you tire pressure gauge' even for a little while. From home, I normally won't get on my bike without checking pressure, and while out, I usually give the tires a kick to test for any obvious softness before heading off. Not a month goes by without my adding a little air to each tire. I try to keep the front at 36, and the back at 38 cold, but I'm a bit anal about such things I guess...
Dan
Owners manual calls for 36F, 40R... unless carrying heavy loads or running at extended high speeds. Then it says 38F, 42R. I run 38/42 suring the summer, Tucson gets pretty warm. I have Mich. Pilot Roads on my 90 FJ.
Quote from: racerman_27410 on April 06, 2009, 11:33:22 PM
if the tire is old it can have the same kind of feeling....
have you adjusted the steering head bearings on this bike?
try the 45 MPH coast down test..... (in a straight line) roll up to about 50mph roll off the throttle....loosen your grip on the bars (dont let go completely) and see if the handlbars/front end trys to wobble.... if it does then your head bearings could be too loose....bad tire and loose head bearings give the same kind of feeling..... JMO and you dont have to but its probably time for a repack the head bearings with grease anyway.....trust me its a lot easier to grease them than it is to replace them.... especially the lower head bearing race.. its not fun.
I was just out riding and got the bike up to about 55 and loosened my grip and BAM, wobble like crazy! I guess the head bearings either need repacked with grease, tightened or replaced. That's another thing I've never done before.
Anyone care to throw out some suggestions??
Quote from: drawkward on April 14, 2009, 11:27:11 PM
Anyone care to throw out some suggestions??
Drill a .0125" hole in the front tire opposite the tire valve.
...now you don't have to remove the valve core when you replace the tire :sarcastic:
By all means check the head bearings, but don't over look the tire. When my front tire is shagged I get the 45 mph wobble.